g Need to Know g Contents
Getting
Around
Whether exploring Lisbon by foot or public transport, here is everything you need to know to navigate the city like a pro.
Arriving by Air
Lisbon Humberto Delgado Airport is served by local and international flights and has excellent transport links to the city centre. For journey times and ticket pricing for transport between the airport and the city centre, see the table opposite.
Lisbon Humberto Delgado Airport
∑ ana.pt
Train Travel
International Train Travel
There are two main routes into Portugal by train. The famous Sud Express train, which departs daily at 6:45pm from Irun on the French-Spanish border, can be reached from Austerlitz station in Paris. Travelling from London to Lisbon, using the Eurostar to reach Paris, and then the Sud Express to Lisbon, takes approximately 30 hours. Alternatively, the overnight train from Madrid takes 10 hours. Both routes are operated by the Spanish state-run service Renfe. You can purchase tickets online or at Lisbon’s international train stations. It is sensible to book ahead in peak season (Jul–Aug).
Eurostar
Renfe
Regional Trains
CP (Comboios de Portugal) is the country’s national rail operator. Most parts of Portugal are served by rail, although the more remote lines have sadly been made obsolete by new road links. Lisbon has four main train stations: Rossio, Cais do Sodré, Santa Apolónia and Oriente. Rossio and Cais do Sodré cover local journeys with lines to Sintra and Cascais, respectively. Santa Apolónia and Oriente provide links to international destinations and those across Portugal, like Porto and Coimbra.
All trains should be pre-booked either online or at the station, except for journeys on urban rail networks (urbanas), such as the Sintra and Cascais lines. A conductor will validate tickets on-board and will often ask for ID. Tickets for urbanas can be bought at the station prior to departure and should be validated at the ticket machines on the platform before boarding.
CP
∑ cp.pt
Public Transport
State-owned Carris is Lisbon’s main public transport authority and is responsible for buses, trams and elevators. The metro is run separately, also by the state. Safety and hygiene measures, timetables, ticket information and maps can be found online, on the Carris app and inside some stations.
Carris
Tickets
Single-trip paper tickets for buses, trams and funiculars can be bought upon boarding. Multi-trip paper tickets have been replaced with electronic passes, such as the tourist-friendly Viva Viagem smart card. This “Zapping” card costs €0.50 and each traveller must have their own. They can be purchased at vending machines and ticket offices in metro stations across the city, including Cais do Sodré and Marquês de Pombal, and some railway stations, shops and newsagents.
Buying a pre-paid Viva Viagem is the most practical option for visitors, as you can top up your card’s balance whenever necessary, travelling across the Carris and metro networks at a lower price. You can also load Viva Viagem cards with a 24-hour pass, which allows unlimited travel with Carris and on the metro for €6.40. Passes that include the Tagus ferries (€9.55) or Sintra and Cascais train lines (€10.60) are also available. Note that the balance remaining on the card cannot be refunded.
Viva Viagem
Metro
The fastest and cheapest way to get around town is by the Metropolitano de Lisboa. Metro stations are signposted with a red M, and the service operates from 6:30am to 1am every day. There are currently over 50 metro stations operating on four lines. These lines link the metro to major bus, train and ferry services, and provide transport from Lisbon’s suburbs to the city centre.
Although the metro can be very busy during rush hour, there are frequent trains. The system is safe to travel on by night, since police regularly patrol the stations and trains.
All stations have automatic gates at the entrance to the platform and a valid ticket must be passed over the electronic scanner when entering and leaving the station.
Metropolitano de Lisboa
Trams and Funiculars
Trams are a pleasant way of sightseeing in Lisbon but they only operate in limited areas of the city, along the river to Belém and around the hillier parts of Lisbon. At €3 for a single trip without a Viva Viagem card, they can be a costly choice. The charming, pre-World War I models still run alongside new trams with sleek interiors.
Perhaps the most popular route is tram 28, which passes by Alfama and Mouraria as it circumvents Castelo de São Jorge, before taking a scenic route across the city to the more grandiose districts of São Bento and Estrela.
Three historic funiculars (Glória, Bica and Lavra) carry weary Lisboetas up several of the city’s steepest hills, and are classed as national monuments. Similarly, the Elevador de Santa Justa is a useful and enjoyable tourist experience, but queues can be long.
Purchase a Viva Viagem card to minimize the cost of trams, funiculars and the Elevador de Santa Justa.
Buses
The bus network is Lisbon’s most extensive public transport system, and buses go just about everywhere. They are usually yellow and generally run from 5:30am to 1am in the inner city. A small number of night services continue outside these hours.
The bus timetable suffers from Lisbon’s traffic problems, which means that you sometimes have to wait a long time to board a very crowded bus. Bus stops are indicated by a sign marked Paragem and display the routes that serve them, along with timetables. Many stops and buses now also display real-time schedule information.
Long-Distance Bus Travel
Sete Rios is Lisbon’s main bus station and there are several private companies operating coach services. Rede Expressos covers most of Portugal, linking Braga, Porto, Lisbon and Faro. For long distance trips, you can buy tickets online or in bus stations at the relevant company’s kiosk – tickets are not available to buy on-board. There are discounts for booking early.
Tickets for shorter trips must be bought at the station or from the driver. TST serves destinations south of the Tagus. Buses leave from Praça de Espanha for destinations such as Costa da Caparica (1 hr) and Sesimbra (1 hr 45 mins). EVA covers the Algarve particularly well and is based at the Sete Rios bus terminal.
EVA
Rede Expressos
TST
Boats and Ferries
The frequent commuter ferries over the Tagus river, which depart roughly every 15 minutes, make for a pleasant excursion to the port suburb of Cacilhas. Most ferry services on the Tagus are run by Transtejo and depart regularly from Cais do Sodré, Terreiro do Paço and Belém to several destinations south of the river. Ticket prices range from €1.20 with a Viva Viagem pass, to €2.60 for a return ferry trip. Trips generally last 15–25 minutes and are worth making purely for the fabulous views of Lisbon.
Transtejo
Trips and Tours
There are two main hop-on hop-off tour bus operators in Lisbon although, due to the inner city’s hilly nature, bus routes mostly follow the city’s flatter outskirts, past sights such as the Torre de Belém, Basilica da Estrela and Parque Eduardo VII.
Trips on the red City Sightseeing buses cost around €22, with a choice of two routes through the east or west of the city. For a similar price, state-run Carristur’s yellow bus routes include a tour along the Tagus. Tickets for both companies are valid for 24 hours and can be purchased online or on-board.
Tuk-tuks, which are well-suited for navigating the inner city and provide a more personalized, often exciting (or nerve-wracking) experience, are quite popular. Eco Tuk Tuk Lisbon provides tours from around €75 for 1 hour. Alternatively you can haggle with the drivers lining the streets next to Sé Cathedral.
There is a large choice of tour operators offering trips of varying lengths to other cities in Portugal. Day trips from Lisbon include destinations like Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais, or Arrábida’s rugged coastline. Tours can be booked directly with the operator, through a travel agent and at some hotels.
Carristur
City Sightseeing
Eco Tuk Tuk Lisbon
Taxis
Taxis in Lisbon are relatively inexpensive compared to the rest of Europe and can work out cheaper than public transport for large groups. Most drivers only accept cash and can be hailed in the street and at taxi ranks.
A green light indicates that the taxi is available and two green lights mean a higher rate. The normal starting rate for a taxi is €3.25 during the day and €3.90 at night. Ensure that the meter is on, suggest agreeing on a price for longer routes and always check the extra cost for luggage before setting off. Two of the largest firms are Autocoope and Radio Taxis. Taxi apps such as Uber also operate in Lisbon.
Autocoope
Radio Taxis
Driving
Driving around Lisbon can be a daunting experience, thanks to a complex street plan, traffic jams and scarce parking.
Driving to Lisbon
Though Portuguese roads are rightly renowned as accident-prone, in 2015 the World Economic Forum pronounced the road network itself to be the best in Europe. There are seven roads into Lisbon. Those arriving from the south can cross to central Lisbon via the Ponte 25 de Abril or the newer Ponte Vasco de Gama. From the north, the A1 (E1) motorway brings you to Lisbon’s north-eastern outskirts. Those arriving from Cascais and the Lisbon Coast enter via the tolled A5 motorway or the coastal N6 road.
Most of the main motorways in Portugal are toll roads, paid electronically. The easiest system to use is EasyToll, which matches your credit card to your licence plate and automatically deducts the necessary funds. Payments and details can be managed on their website.
If you bring your own foreign-registered car, you must carry a valid driver’s licence, proof of ownership, insurance and address, as well as an up-to-date MOT certificate. Driver’s licences issued by any EU member state are valid throughout the EU, including Portugal. If visiting from outside the EU, you may need to apply for an International Driving Permit (IDP). After 183 days, the car must either be registered in Portugal or taken to another country.
EasyToll
Driving in Lisbon
City centre streets are narrow, difficult to navigate and often congested, and on-street parking is scant, so driving in Lisbon is not recommended. A vast network of ring roads traces the outskirts, but a missed or wrong exit can result in a prolonged detour.
The city offers relatively few on-street parking spaces, but there are many underground car parks, marked by signs with a white P on a blue background. The European Car Parking Guide lists car parks around Lisbon.
If your car is towed or clamped, contact EMEL based in Sete Rios. You will have to pay a fee of up to €300 to retrieve it, as well as pay for the parking violation.
EMEL
∑ emel.pt
The European Car Parking Guide
∑ car-parking.eu/portugal/lisbon/
Car Rental
Most major car hire companies have offices at the airport. To rent a car in Portugal you must be over 18 and have held a valid driver’s licence for at least one year, although those under 25 may need to pay a surcharge. Prices rise in peak season (Jul–Aug) and some companies offer special off-peak (Dec–Mar) and weekend deals.
As Lisbon’s streets are narrow and Portuguese drivers are infamously erratic, it is sensible to arrange third-party insurance beforehand or take the pricier “no excess” insurance deals offered upon pick-up. Most car hire companies allow you to pay all road toll fees upon the vehicle’s return.
Rules of the Road
Drive on the right and use the left lane only for passing. Seat belts are required for all passengers and heavy fines are incurred for using a mobile phone while driving. Drivers are required to stop at pedestrian crossings. The blood-alcohol concentration (BAC) limit is 0.5mg/ml and is very strictly enforced. If you are drinking alcohol, use public transport or a taxi.
Always carry your passport, licence and insurance details. In the event of an accident or breakdown, the driver and passengers must don a fluorescent yellow safety vest and erect a collapsible warning triangle 50 m (165 ft) behind the vehicle. Both of these items must be stored in the trunk at all times. The local motoring association, the ACP (Automóvel Club de Portugal), has a reciprocal breakdown service with most other international motoring organizations. To qualify, drivers must take out European cover with their own organization. Should you be involved in a road accident, the emergency services number is 112. If you have simply broken down, call the ACP (808 222 222) or, if driving a hired car, check the instructions supplied by your chosen company.
ACP
∑ acp.pt
Cycle and Scooter Hire
Lisbon’s hilly terrain does not make for easy cycling, but cycle paths do exist along the Tagus and in flatter areas. The vast Monsanto Forest Park can provide quieter roads, while there are several popular cycle routes south of the river. A growing number of companies, including Lisbon Bike Rentals, now offer electric bikes.
Scooters and motorcycles are a more popular choice, particularly for those looking to explore the coast. Most companies require a deposit and ask you to leave your passport at the rental shop. You must have a driver’s licence valid for your desired bike category. Note that 50cc vehicles are forbidden on motorways, which includes the Ponte 25 de Abril and Ponte Vasco de Gama. All riders must wear helmets by law, which can be rented from most hire shops. LX Rent is reliable and conveniently located where Alfama meets the Tagus, with scooters from €36/day.
Lisbon Bike Rentals
LX Rent
Walking
Wandering around Lisbon’s picturesque streets is one of the most enjoyable aspects of the city, and the main sights are generally within walking distance of one another. However, the streets are notoriously steep and can get slippery in the rain.
Need to know Getting Around
At a Glance
Public Transport costs
Need to know Getting Around
Speed Limit
Need to know Getting Around
GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORT
| Airport | Transport | Price | Journey time |
| Humberto Delgado Airport | Metro | €1.45 | 25 mins |
| Bus (Aerobus) | €3.60 | 35 mins | |
| Taxi | €20 | 30 mins |