Start your day with breakfast at one of the cafés on Praça da Figueira or neighbouring Rossio – Confeitaria Nacional (www.confeitarianacional.com) has a great pastry selection. Once fully fuelled, wander through the Baixa’s pedestrianized streets to the quirky, Gothic-style Elevador de Santa Justa. Follow the backstreets or take the lift up to the hilltop Museu do Carmo, an archaeological museum housed in a Carmelite church, whose graceful ruined arches stand out against the city skyline. Browse among the boutiques before heading through the elegant Chiado district towards the waterfront.

Here, the Time Out Market in Cais do Sodré is a great place for a pick-and-mix lunch. The selection on offer is huge – just pick your stall, choose a dish (or two) and snag a seat at one of the tables. After lunch, hop on the metro to the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, where exploring the sprawling collection of artworks will quickly eat up the rest of your afternoon.

Head back towards the city centre and spend the evening in lively Bairro Alto. Book a table at PARK (Calçada do Combro 58, above the car park) where you can dine against the stunning backdrop of Lisbon’s skyline. This rooftop bar overlooks the river, with tasty burgers on the menu and a strong line in cocktails.

Aim for a bright and early start in order to make the most of Belém, one of Lisbon’s prettiest suburbs. Take a short tram ride or the train along the waterfront, and head first to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. This elaborately decorated monastery demands at least an hour or two to explore properly – the refectory’s azulejo panels and the cloister are particularly spectacular. Next, cross through the gardens to the towering 52-m- (170-ft-) high Padrão dos Descobrimentos, and take the high-speed lift to the top for great views over the monastery and river.

Nearby, the colourful Rua Vieira Portuense is home to a number of excellent restaurants where you can lunch at outdoor tables. Skip pudding here and cross the road to the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém bakery – where better to sample Portugal’s iconic tarts than the café in which they were first created? Walk off your sweet treat along the waterfront to reach the Torre de Belém, worth a visit to admire its intricate stonework.

Next, take a look round the impressive Museu Colecção Berardo, where the modern art on display includes pieces by the likes of Dalí, Picasso and Andy Warhol. End your evening in Enoteca de Belém, a tiny wine bar tucked down Travessa Marta Pinto, with delicious seafood options and a vast wine list.