1

Stresa

Verbano-Cusio-Ossola; Piemonte 28838

One of Italy’s most elegant 19th-century resorts, Stresa may be a little past its prime today, but still has grand hotels and a lovely waterfront and is the departure point for ferries and steamers across Lake Maggiore. Italy’s second largest, the lake has always been popular with royalty, politicians, artists and writers such as Ernest Hemingway who featured Stresa’s Grand Hôtel des Iles Borromées in A Farewell to Arms. Behind the waterfront is the café-lined Piazza Cadorna which has some good shops. A cable car from the Lido makes regular 20-minute ascents to Monte Mottarone, stopping halfway at the Giardino Botanico Alpinia (open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6pm daily) before continuing to the summit and spectacular views.

The main attractions, however, are the views from the bustling waterfront at Piazza Marconi to the Isole Borromee (Borromean Islands) set in the middle of the lake, and visits to the islands themselves. Once barren outcrops, the three islands are the stars of the lake, graced with villas, palaces and beautiful gardens. Each has a different character, but all have belonged to the noble Borromean family since Renaissance times. Today, the wealthy Borromeans are still the owners of these islands: Isola Bella, one of the family’s many homes, is a showy Baroque pleasure palace set among crisply terraced gardens peppered with statues and fountains. The folly is completed by a series of grottoes dripping with nymphs and shells and a shell-shaped amphitheatre – the perfect setting for outdoor summer concerts. Isola Madre resembles a floating, enchanted garden where white peacocks and wildly coloured exotic birds strut among the prized botanic specimens. Highlights include Europe’s largest Kashmiri cypress and, in spring, spectacular blooms of camellias, magnolias and giant rhododendrons. Isola Superiore (also known as Isola Pescatori) is the smallest of the three and is a prettified fishing village where the little alleys, whitewashed walls draped with fishing nets and sleepy cats basking in courtyards conjure up a romantic idyll.

A short distance from Stresa, southeast along the SS33 in the direction of Novara/Milano, is Il Parco della Villa Pallavicino (open Mar–Oct daily). Shady arbours, botanical and “English” gardens, pergolas and terraces are the setting for this villa, which was built for the politician Ruggero Borghi in the 19th century. The villa itself is closed to the public but the extensive grounds are yours to explore. There is also a zoo with around 40 different species of animals, many of which roam freely among the visitors.

DK From Stresa head northwest on the SS33 for 4.5 km (3 miles) to Baveno.

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Cable car descending from Monte Mottarone to Lake Maggiore

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Flowers in the Giardino Alpinia, Monte Mottarone

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Statuary on Isola Bella, Isole Borromee

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Isola Superiore seen from Stresa, Lake Maggiore

2

Baveno

Verbano-Cusio-Ossola; Piemonte 28831

Once a favourite of Queen Victoria and Winston Churchill, today the resort is a quieter version of Stresa. Full of elegant villas, fringed by an attractive waterfront and beaches, it also has a lovely backdrop of Monte Camoscio (890 m/2,919 ft), famous for its pink granite. This was used to build both Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele ll and St Paul’s Basilica in Rome. In town, the 11th-century parish church Santi Gervaso e San Protaso was also built from the local stone and has a splendid Romanesque bell tower, façade and octagonal baptistry. To the north (via SS33 and then SS34), is the Riserva Naturale di Fondotoce covering an area of 300 hectares (741 acres) and a favourite stopping spot for migratory birds.

DK Take SS33, left on SP167, then SS34. Villa Taranto is by the lake at Pallanza.

3

Verbania

Verbano-Cusio-Ossola; Piemonte 28921

Verbania gets its name from the Roman for Lake Maggiore, Lacus Verbanus, after the verbano (vervain) plant that grows here. Along the lakeside, the town merges with Pallanza, forming one of Maggiore’s best-known and cosmopolitan resorts, beautifully located at the foot of Monte Rosso. The highlight here is the gardens at Villa Taranto (open mid-Mar–Oct) – with over 20,000 plant species, it is one of Italy’s richest collections of subtropical flora. The gardens were laid out by a retired Scottish captain, Neil McEacharn, who devoted 33 years to them and bequeathed them to the Italian state on his death in 1964. Whatever the season, the gardens are blooming.

DK Head north to join the SS34, cross autostrada E62, then head south on the SP229 to Omegna (17 km/11 miles).

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The terraced gardens at the delightful Villa Taranto, Verbania-Pallanza

4

Omegna

Verbano-Cusio-Ossola; Piemonte 28887

At the northern end of Lago d’Orta, bustling Omegna is the largest town in the area. It lies on the two banks of the Nigoglia, an outflowing river and, curiously, Italy’s only north-flowing river. The heart of the old town is the pedestrianized Via Felice Cavallotti. There is some good shopping to be had here and along Via Alberganti, also known as Via dal Buter, after the old butter and cheese market that was held along this street. Designer household articles are the good buys in Omegna, as the town is home to design guru Alessi as well as Calderoni, Bialetti and Lagostina – all big names in the Italian kitchen. To the north at Crusinallo is the Alessi headquarters and factory shop.

From Omegna it is worth making a quick detour to the town of Quarna Sopra, a further 8 km (5 miles) along the SP51, for splendid views over the mountain pastures from its castle.

DK From Quarna retrace the route to Omegna, then go south on SP229. Turn off on SP39 at Orta San Giulio and take SP43 to Ameno.

5

Ameno

Novara; Piemonte 28010

A tourist resort since the 18th century, Ameno is a great base for trekking in beautiful scenery overlooking Monte Rosa. The town is dotted with grand villas with gardens, such as Casa Calderara, the former home of painter Antonio Calderara (1903–78) – now a museum-gallery. The Collezione Calderara di Arte Contemporanea (open mid-May–mid-Oct: 3–7pm Tue–Fri, 10am–noon & 3–7pm Sat & Sun) features contemporary paintings and sculptures by European, American, Chinese and Japanese artists. Walk southwest 1.5 km (1 mile) to the lake past pretty gardens to sandy Miami Beach (entrance fee) for waterside fun.

DK Retrace route to SP229, then turn off for Orta San Giulio. The main road is Via Panoramica or Strada Nuova.

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | Stresa

VISITING StresA

Parking

Main car park on waterfront with four more close by and one at Viale Lido at the far end of town (direction Baveno).

Cable car, ferries and the trenino

The Monte Mottarone cable car departs Piazzale Lido 8. Isole Borromee ferries sail every half hour from Piazza Marconi – visit all three with a day pass. The trenino (tourist train) goes to Villa Pallavicino, 9:30am–4:30pm Mar–Sep from the Piazzale Imbarcadero di Stresa.

Tourist Information

Piazza Marconi 16, 28838; 0323 30150; www.stresaturismo.it

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | STRESA

Where to stay in stresa

Albergo Ristorante Verbano moderate

This restaurant and inn has 12 charmingly old-fashioned rooms with lovely views over the lake.

Via Ugo Ara 2, Isola Superiore, 28838; 0323 30408; www.hotelverbano.it; closed Nov–20 Mar

Villa Aminta expensive

Luxury in a chic boutique hotel full of charm. Set at the lake’s edge, the villa also has a terrace and outdoor pool.

Via Sempione Nord 123, Stresa, 28838; 0323 933 818; www.villa-aminta.it; closed Oct–Mar

Grand Hôtel des Iles Borromées expensive

Hotel overlooking the lake and islands with belle époque-style rooms, swimming pools, spa and a wellness centre.

Corso Umberto l 67, Stresa, 28838; 0323 938 938; www.borromees.com; closed Dec–mid-Feb

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | baveno

eat and drink

Around baveno

Piccolo Lago expensive

With glorious views over the Lago di Mergozzo and close to the Fondotoce nature reserve, this two-Michelin-starred restaurant is a haven of gourmet delight. Has rooms too.

Via Filippo Turati 87, Fondotoce, 28924; 0323 586 792; www.piccololago.it; closed Mon & Tue, Wed lunch and Nov–Feb

verbania

Il Burchiello moderate

This welcoming restaurant offers a menu of Piedmontese cuisine and has a terrace overlooking the Borromeo Gulf.

Corso Zannitello 3, Verbania, Pallanza, 28921; 0323 504 503; closed Jan & Feb Tue–Thu, Mar–Oct Tue and Nov

Around Omegna

Il Giardinetto moderate

Lakeside setting with an awning-shaded veranda (part of a hotel). Light, creative dishes and traditional local specialities.

Via Provinciale 1, Pettenasco, 28028 (8 km/5 miles south of Omegna on lakeside road, SS229); 0323 89118; www.giardinettohotel.com; closed Nov–Mar

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | OMEGNA

SHOPPING in OMEGNA

Alessi factory shop

This outlet sells Alessi’s range of pasta pots and the original coffee pots – fun as well as useful and well crafted.

Via Alessi 6, Crusinallo, 28887 (3 km/2 miles north of centre); 0323 868 611; closed Sun

Omegna Forum

This cultural centre and retail outlet showcases local designer goods.

Parco Pasquale Maulini 1, Omegna, 28887; 0323 866 141; www.forumomegna.org

6

ORTA SAN GIULIO

Novara; Piemonte 28016

Impressive frescoed peach- and cappuccino-coloured houses with galleries, wrought-iron balconies and gates line the cobbled alleys of this gorgeous little medieval town, the jewel of Lago d’Orta.

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n Double-tap image to read the labels

A three-hour walking tour

From the car park and tourist office walk south along Via Fava to the Moorish fantasy hotel Villa Crespi 1 (www.villacrespi.it). Follow the lakeside road to the main square, Piazza Motta 2, with cafés, restaurants, shops and hotels and a weekly market since 1228. The 16th-century town hall, Palazzo della Comunità 3 holds art shows and nearby, Rovera (Largo de Gregori 4; 0322 90123), is an Aladdin’s cave of local treats and wines. From the piazza, take a boat to Isola di San Giulio 4. Legend has it that, in AD 390 Giulio, a Christian preacher, rid the island of its dragons and serpents and built the Romanesque Basilica di San Giulio (open daily) – his remains are in the crypt. The only street, Via del Silenzio, becoming the Via della Meditazione, leads past the Benedictine convent, Palazzo dei Vescovi, home to about 60 nuns. The abbess has put up signs encouraging contemplation and self-renewal on “the island within”.

Back at Piazza Motta, take the Salita della Motta, a stepped lane past the late-Renaissance Palazzo Gemelli 5 and other elegant palazzi such as the Casa dei Nani (House of Dwarfs) 6. Orta’s oldest house, dating from the 14th century, this home takes its name from the four tiny windows. Passing by other houses in a profusion of architectural styles, head up to the 15th-century Baroque church Santa Maria Assunta 7. From here take Via Gemelli and turn left to the Sacro Monte di San Francesco 8 (open daily). Spectacularly set on a hillside above the lake with views to Isola di San Giulio, this is a devotional path with 21 chapels illustrating the life of StFrancis of Assisi. The chapels, built between 1591 and 1750, alternate Baroque and Renaissance styles and hold 376 sculptures and 900 frescoes. There is a good restaurant here, with a picturesque ivy-clad terrace. Return to the car park on the tourist train.

DK Head south on SP29, turn right at Gozzano on SP45, turn right on SP46 and again on SP48.

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The tiny island of Isola di San Giulio, a short boat ride from Orta San Giulio

7

Pella

Novara; Piemonte 28010

This lakeside village is a pleasant place for a stroll and an ice cream from the Gelateria Antica Torre. Towering above the village, on a granite outcrop, is the Santuario della Madonna del Sasso (open daily mid-Mar–Oct), accessible on a winding road from the SP48/46/49. This sanctuary, with Baroque church, bell tower and hermitage, was built in 1730–48. Inside there are some fine frescoes and a 17th-century crucifix, but the highlight is the great view – encompassing almost the entire lake.

DK Take SP49, then SP46, left on SP50, then SP78. Turn right on SP8.

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Fresco on St Michael’s church, Riva Valdobbia

8

Varallo

Vercelli; Piemonte 13019

Varallo is a picturesque town, but the focal point is the Sacro Monte (open daily). Representing the Stations of the Cross, the site was chosen in 1481 by a Franciscan friar who wanted to create a miniature Holy Land. Today there are 45 chapels with statues and frescoes. In front of the basilica, a fountain takes the place of the 44th chapel, hewn out of one rock, crowned by a statue of the Risen Christ, with five spouts symbolizing the wounds of Christ. A steepish walk from town, the site can also be reached by car and cable car.

DK Take the SP299 to Riva Valdobbia.

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River valley and ruined chapel on the drive to Varallo

9

Riva Valdobbia

Vercelli; 13020

With good views of Monte Rosa, this is a pretty village of the Walsers, a German-speaking people – note their wooden houses with balconies for drying hay, hemp or rye. Originally a chapel of the Holy Virgin (1473), the town church was rededicated to StMichael in 1640. The original bell tower has a figure of St Christopher, protector of pilgrims. It holds various art works, a marble altar and wooden choir from the Sacro Monte of Varallo.

DK Continue for just over 3 km (2 miles) on the SP299 to Alagna Valsesia.

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Wooden Walser house in front of St Michael’s church

10

Alagna Valsesia

Vercelli; Piemonte 13021

This pleasant hiking centre has strong connections with the hardy Walsers who colonized the area around Monte Rosa in the 13th century. On the edge of Alagna, at Pedemonte, is the Museo Walser (open Sep–Jun: Sat & Sun; Jul: daily pm; Aug: daily). This 17th-century wood-slatted house gives an insight into Walser life, with the stube (stove), built-in cattle stall, furniture and workshops. Drive (or just walk) through town, past a car park, to the track that goes 2 km (1 mile) up to a mountain café – there are waterfalls nearby and it is just perfect for hiking.

DK Retrace the route to Alagna.

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | Orta San Giulio

visiting orta san giulio

Parking

Use the car park by the tourist office (Via Panoramica). From here a tourist train heads to the centre and Sacro Monte.

Tourist Information

Via Panoramica, 28016; 0322 905 163; www.distrettolaghi.it; closed Mon & Tue

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | Orta San Giulio

Where to stay

Orta San Giulio

Hotel Ara Coeli moderate

Central, quirky minimalist hotel with themed rooms. Glorious lake views.

Piazza Motta 34, 28016; 0322 905 173; www.ortainfo.com

Varallo

Vecchio Albergo Sacro Monte moderate

This small pleasant hotel is near the site of pilgrimage above Varallo.

Sacro Monte 14, 13019; 0163 54254; www.albergosacromonte.it; closed Dec–mid-Mar

ALAGNA VALSESIA

Hotel Residence Indren Hus inexpensive

A simple B&B in the centre of town.

Via dei Walser 18, 13021; 0163 91152; www.indrenhus.it; closed May, Oct–Nov

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | Orta San Giulio

eat and drink

Orta San Giulio

La Bussola moderate

Amazing views from the terrace and fish specialities including trout.

Via Panoramica 24, 28016; 0322 911 913; closed end Oct–mid-Mar

Leon d’Oro moderate

Dine by the water on lake fish.

Piazza Motta 42, 28016; 0322 911 991; www.albergoleondoro.it; closed Jan

Other options

For cakes, snacks and drinks try

Bar Pasticceria Arianna (Via Domodossola 10/12, 28016).

PELLA

Antica Torre inexpensive

Great ice-cream and pancake stop.

Via Lungo Lago 8–10, 28010; closed Dec–Feb Mon

Varallo

Delzanno moderate

Family-run restaurant with simple dishes.

Località Crosa 8, 13019; 0163 51230; www.ristorantedelzanno.it; closed Mon in winter

ALAgna valsesia

Dir Und Don moderate

Modern Piedmontese cuisine.

Piazza Regina Margherita 1, 13021; 0163 020 011; www.dirunddon.it

Trip 2: Islands And Lighthouses | Alagna Valsesia

DAY TRIP OPTIONS

This drive offers aquatic, meditative or mountainous day-trip options around lakes Maggiore and Orta or Varallo.

Family fun

Park near the waterfront at the Lido in Stresa 1 and take the cable car to the Monte Mottarone before hopping on the ferry to the Isole Borromee. Then drive out to the Villa Pallavicino park.

Travel east on the SS33 for 5 km (3 miles) from Stresa to Villa Pallavicino.

A day of meditation

At Ameno 5 contemplate modern art at the Collezione Calderara di Arte Contemporanea, then take a walk around Orta San Giulio 6 and a boat to Isola di San Giulio. Finish at peace on the Via della Meditazione.

The main road to use here is the SS229.

Climb every mountain

At Varallo 8 walk to the Sacro Monte, before driving to the Walser village of Riva Valdobbia 9. Continue to Alagna Valsesia 0 and the Museo Walser to learn about the Walsers before enjoying a short walk in the mountains.

Travel on the SS299 through the valley.

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