1

Dolceacqua

Imperia, Liguria; 18035

The Castello dei Doria ruins sit high on a hill over the mass of red roofs of Dolceacqua. A humped bridge spans the River Nervia which separates the original medieval quarter, Téra, from the Borgo, built several centuries later. Follow the signed historic trail which links the two and leads into the countryside. The Téra houses are up to six storeys high, in a labyrinth of steep cobbled alleyways. The Palazzo della Camminata stands out among the buildings, its portals decorated with the ruling Doria coat of arms. A good series of short, signed walking trails starts near the castello: the Sentiero Rio Peitavino reveals glimpses of the valley and riverside gardens. Relax afterwards with a glass of Maixei Rossese di Dolceacqua from the local cooperative wine cellar (Piazza G Mauro 3).

DK Take the SP64 north all the way to Pigna – parking on the street.

DK

Fountain sculpture, Dolceacqua

DK

View of Dolceacqua’s graceful bridge over the river Nervia

DK

Steep medieval cobbled alleyway in the Téra quarter, Dolceacqua

2

Pigna

Imperia, Liguria; 18037

Pigna’s main streets are laid out in concentric circles linked by steep paths and narrow alleys called chibi. These wind their way up to the colla – the highest part of the village with wonderful valley views. Admire the old town’s Romanesque steeples and medieval fountains and spot the monograms of the land-owning families on the walls of the houses, showing their privileged social position. The main Piazza Vecchia is rich in history: with the campanile (bell tower), Baroque Oratorio di Sant’Antonio and Roman Chiesa di San Bernardo graced with 15th-century frescoes by painter-priest Giovanni Canavesio. The main highlight is the Chiesa Madre di San Michele Arcangelo, its façade sculpted from local dark stone – pietra nera – and embellished with a white marble rose window and a stained-glass window.

DK Continue east on the SP65. Watch for right fork, SP64, to Castel Vittorio. Follow road around town to a square where it exits towards Bajardo.

3

Bajardo

Imperia, Liguria; 18031

At the end of the Val Nervia, many of the roads follow old carriageways and mule paths, and the alpine passes that connect the area to the coast are recent additions. The hills are covered with woods of chestnut, pine and oak trees, and in the shadier parts olive trees and alpine pastures. Bajardo – at 900 m (2,950 ft) above sea level – has the highest olive plantations in Europe. Set on a rocky spur encircled by stone-walled crops, its red roofs and church steeples are almost as high as the neighbouring mountain. The medieval centre is full of small streets and great views from eastern Liguria to the French Alps. Mountain bike and hiking enthusiasts head for the 1,627-m (5,300-ft) Monte Ceppo, reached by crossing over the Ghimbegna pass from Bajardo.

DK Take the SP63 south in the direction of Apricale.

DK

The village of Bajardo, set at the top of a 900-m (2,950-ft) hill

4

Apricale

Imperia, Liguria; 18035

High on a sun-soaked slope and surrounded by olive trees, Apricale –from the Latin for sunny – is one of Italy’s most beautiful villages. A tradition of ceramic art, which started in the 1970s, has seen the village walls progressively covered in bright murals. The main piazza, Vittorio Emanuele, contains many treasures: stone arches, a trough and fountain, ochre loggias, a 13th-century bell tower and a Baroque palazzo. The hanging gardens of the restored Castello della Lucertola (closed Mon; Jul–Aug open daily) form the backdrop for many artistic and cultural events. Its Art Nouveau-style frescoed rooms house a museum, with collections of old paintings and antiques. The micro brewery Piccolo Birrificio (Via IV Novembre 20) serves local beer.

DK Head east on the SP63, soon forking right into the SP62 into Perinaldo.

DK

View from the south-facing – and sunny – village of Apricale

5

Perinaldo

Imperia, Liguria; 18032

Stretched along the crest of a hillside of terraced crops, Perinaldo is easily visible from a distance, especially the white bell tower of the Baroque Chiesa di San Nicolò da Bari. Fittingly, for a place whose ancient roofs are closer to the sky than most, the village was the birthplace of 17th-century astronomer, Gian Domenico Cassini. The observatory is in the Convento di San Sebastiano, a Franciscan convent. (Some weekend nights in summer at 9pm there are guided tours of the night sky.) Opposite is the church Sant’Antonio da Padova with its unique triangular-based bell tower. Stop, too, at Castello Maraldi, said to be the birthplace of Cassini and home to Napoleon and General Massena during the French Emperor’s Italian campaign in the 1790s. On Piazza San Nicolò, the church of the same name houses the Renaissance painting, Tela delle Anime (Cloth of Souls). On the façade of the rectory and former summer residence of the Marchesi Doria di Dolceacqua, is a sundial, built to the specifications of Cassini’s grandson, the astronomer Gian Domenico Maraldi.

DK Take the SP61, then turn right onto the SP59 to the coast. Take the SS1 through Vallecrosia and Bordighera to continue to San Remo.

DK

Bell tower and steps of Sant’Antonio da Padova, Perinaldo

Trip 6: The Italian Riviera | NERVIA

Visiting the Val Nervia

Getting to Dolceacqua

From Ventimiglia, follow the Corso Genova parallel to the sea and turn left into the Corso della Repubblica/SP64 inland to Dolceacqua and the Val Nervia. After entering the town, turn right over the flat bridge for parking.

Trip 6: The Italian Riviera | Dolceacqua

Where to STAY

Dolceacqua

Talking Stones moderate

With charming interiors, this medieval B&B’s studios have kitchens, claw-feet baths, and balconies with views over the Castello dei Doria and Val Nervia.

Via San Bernardo 5; 18035; 0184 206 393; www.talkingstones.it

Pigna

Casa Rosa inexpensive

Located in a 17th-century palace, this B&B has five elegantly decorated rooms. Rent a bike to explore the stunning surroundings.

Corso De Sonnaz 35, 18037; 347 522 7119; www.bebcasarosa.com; closed mid-Jan–Mar

Apricale

Apricus Locanda moderate

Five refined rooms with little balconies over the village and forests. This village-centre home offers a warm welcome and excellent breakfasts.

Via IV Novembre 5, 18035; 3381 733 401; www.apricuslocanda.com; closed Dec–mid-Feb

Trip 6: The Italian Riviera | Dolceacqua

Eat and Drink

Dolceacqua

Casa e Bottega moderate

Surrounded by café terraces and park benches full of chatty locals, this rustic restaurant, similar in style to a Parisian bistro, comes with a shaded outdoor terrace. It showcases a Ligurian menu, with highlights including spaghetti with clams and the traditional dish brandacujun (cod creamed with potatoes). Desserts are not be missed; Torta Stroscia is a crumbly cake made with olive oil.

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 2, 18035; 0184 205 038; closed Sep–Jun Sun–Thu dinner

Apricale

Ristorante Apricale Da Delio moderate

Inspired by dishes cooked up by his grandmother and mother, Delio serves Apricale ravioli stuffed with herbs and meat; pappardelle pasta made from chestnut flour and filled with porcini mushrooms; pan-fried rabbit, and aubergine, mushroom and potato pie.

Piazza Vittorio Veneto 9, 18035; 0184 208 008; www.ristoranteapricale.it; closed Mon & Tue (except Jul & Aug), Nov and Christmas

La Capanna da Bací moderate

In an old stone cavern, this restaurant with a panorama over the valley serves typical country dishes of the Val Nervia. The fixed-price menu includes starters of homemade pasta and main dishes of roast beef carpaccio and wild boar with polenta. The Terrazzone dell’Amore balcony is set up for candlelit romantic dinners. The owners also run a wine bar, Grotte del Locanda (Via Roma 1), with an enodegustazione (wine taster) menu – wine accompanied by small, lighter dishes. Via Roma 1, 18035; 0184 208 137; closed Thu

6

SANREMO

Imperia, Liguria; 18038

With its casino, palm-lined seaside promenade and faded villa façades, Sanremo, the capital of the western Ligurian riviera, recalls the French Côte d’Azur. This air of early 20th-century Belle Époque lingers around the grand hotels, flower-gardened marina area and beachfront corsos, while the historic town centre – Pigna – is a living vestige of the past.

DK

n Double-tap image to read the labels

A one-hour walking tour

Start along the waterfront stretch of Corso Imperatrice 1 part of the “new” city developed in the 1800s. The wide seaside avenues are planted with exotic plants – as is the Parco Marsaglia 2. Next to the park is the Tourist Information Office 3, housed in the former Riviera Palace Hotel. Behind it, the Chiesa Russo-Ortodossa di Cristo Salvatore 4 looks more like a lollipop-coloured palace than a religious edifice. The city’s Casino 5 (open daily) marks the intersection of Corso Imperatrice and Corso Matteotti: built in 1905 but later expanded to its current cruise ship form. Opposite, the old train station is a hub of future urban regeneration. Continue along Corso Matteotti past the 1924 Art Deco Ariston Theatre 6, once frequented by writer Italo Calvino. Next are the façades of the 1720s Palazzo Roverizio 7 and 1667 Palazzo Nota, home to the Museo Civico (closed Mon & Sun).

Pass through the old city gateway off Via Palazzo, to the Chiesa di Santo Stefano and 17th-century Jesuit convent, Convento dei Padri Gesuiti 8 on Piazza Cassini, and enter the walled medieval town of Pigna 9.

A community still thrives in Pigna’s covered passages, small squares, alleys stairways and tunnels known as vallai – from the Latin vallum for protection. Go up Via Moreno to the 14th-century fountain Funtanassa 0, which supplied the town’s water until the 1900s. Cross the eastern fortified doorways, the Porta del Roglio or Porta Bugiarda q and climb up Via Roglio: past Sanremo’s oldest church, the 1297 Chiesa San Costanzo w on Piazza San Costanzo. Carry on up to the hilltop Giardini Regina Elena e, where there is a lookout (avoid early or late in the day, if alone). Go through the gardens to reach the Baroque Santuario della Madonna della Costa r.

DK

Exotic palms and pretty flowers on Corso Matteotti, Sanremo

Return to the old town through Porta di Santa Maria t, pass through Piazza Capitolo y and descend Via Capitolo. Turn right, and end the walk on Pigna’s most beautiful square, Piazza dei Dolori u. Sit at one of the cafés and admire the crested façades of the Genovese style Palazzo Pretorio and Palazzo Gentile Spinola. Return to the car park on Corso Imperatrice.

DK From Corso Imperatrice head east on SS1 to Porto Maurizio, which is merged with Oneglia into Imperia.

7

Porto Maurizio

Imperia, Liguria; 18100

A once-thriving medieval trading centre managed by Benedictine monks, Porto Maurizio boasts Baroque oratories, palazzi and the loggias of Monastero di Santa Chiara, skirting the old city walls with views over the Golfo di Imperia. The domes of the Neo-Classical Basilica di San Maurizio – Liguria’s largest church – tower over the Piazza del Duomo, where there is also a naval museum. Stroll along the lungomare past the Torre di Prarola and beaches. On the western pier of Porto Maurizio, the bathing establishment Spiaggia d’Oro (Golden Beach) has a fine 1913 Art Nouveau entrance.

DK Take the SS1, turning right onto the lungomare to Oneglia. Find a car park or meter by the port or in the centre.

DK

A view of the old town of Porto Maurizio on Paraiso Hill

8

Oneglia

Imperia, Liguria; 18100

Via Bonfante runs through the centro storico, with arcades full of independent shops, next to the Piazza Dante and its palazzo. Stroll along the marina, past the fishing cottages and the Palazzo Doria of old Oneglia. At the eastern edge of town, in Via Palestro, there are traces of the 17th-century city walls. For a lesson on the history of olive oil, head to the Museo dell’Olivo (Via Garessio 11; www.museodellolivo.com; open Mon–Sat). Above Oneglia, the Baroque fantasy Villa Grock (Via Fanny Roncati Carli; 0183 704 375; open Mon pm, Wed pm and Fri am) is the 1920s villa of Swiss clown Adrien Wettach, a folly of fountains and gardens.

DK Continue on coastal SS1 through Diano Marina to Cervo.

9

Cervo

Imperia, Liguria; 18010

Set on a hillock, Cervo’s houses form blocks of colour leading down to the sea. The blue and yellow Baroque façade of San Giovanni Battista (open daily) rises elegantly above its surroundings. Built in the 18th century from fishing industry profits, the church looks onto a courtyard used for the Festival Internazionale di Musica da Camera in summer. Higher up is the crenellated Castello dei Clavesana (open daily) housing an ethnographic museum. From the Piazza Castello, walk through olive groves to Ciapà Park for views over the Golfo di Diana.

DK

Elegantly decorated façade of the chiesa San Giovanni Battista, Cervo

Trip 6: The Italian Riviera | SANrEMO

Visiting SANrEMO

Parking

On the waterfront at Corso Imperatrice and along the Lungomare delle Nazioni.

Tourist Information Largo Nuvoloni 1, 18038; 0184 59 059; www.visitrivieradeifiori.it

Trip 6: The Italian Riviera | Sanremo

Where to stay

Sanremo

Hotel Paradiso inexpensive–moderate

Motel-style white building with verandas. Great for those seeking 4-star comfort in an ideal location at a good price.

Via Roccasterone 12, 18034; 0184 571 211; www.paradisohotel.it; closed Nov–20 Dec

Belsoggiorno moderate

Considerate management, spacious and modern rooms and a big breakfast are major positives of this small 3-star hotel. There is a car park, too.

Corso Matuzia 41, 18038; 0184 667 631; www.belsoggiorno.net

Royal Hotel expensive

This 1872 hotel drips with Art Nouveau bronzes and paintings; glass walls reveal lush gardens and a pool. A terrace looks out to sea and there is an excellent spa.

Corso Imperatrice 80, 18038; 0184 5391; www.royalhotelsanremo.com; closed end Nov–Jan

oneglia

Hotel Rossini al Teatro moderate–expensive

A high-tech hotel built around an 1863 theatre with deluxe stylish rooms. The service is switched-on and there is a spa and outdoor terrace.

Piazza Rossini 14, 18100; 0183 74000; www.hotel-rossini.it

Trip 6: The Italian Riviera | Sanremo

EAT AND DRINK

Sanremo

L’Airone moderate

In the centre of Sanremo, this restaurant serves Ligurian and Mediterranean dishes. Book a table in the garden.

Piazza Eroi Sanremesi 12, 18038; 0184 531 469; www.ristorantelairone.it; closed Thu, 2 wks in Jun & Nov

Le Quattro Stagioni expensive

Serving seafood, this restaurant offers a pleasant, welcoming atmosphere in the old city centre. Excellent wine list from its cellar-bar, Cantina Vini.

Via Corradi 83, 18038; 0184 573 262; www.gaetano4stagioni.com; closed Sun, Mon lunch and Jan

oneglia

La Piazzetta di Oneglia inexpensive–moderate

A good choice of pizza, fish and pasta dishes on Oneglia’s portside.

Calata Gian Battista Cuneo 75, 18100; 0183 297 897; closed Wed

Osteria Didù moderate–expensive

Part of Italy’s Slow Food movement, this restaurant has an ethos of authentic cooking with local produce. Expect quality food in an elegant setting.

Viale Giaccomo Matteotti 76, 18100; 0183 273 636; www.osteriadidu.it; closed Mon & Tue

Trip 6: The Italian Riviera | Cervo

Day trip options

There are two obvious day trips possible – one through the Val Nervia via the ancient inland villages and the other along the sunny coastal riviera.

Through the Val Nervia

From Sanremo 6 (worth a day’s investigation itself) drive to the high village of Perinaldo 5 to learn about astronomer Cassini, then visit the hilltop Apricale 4 for its plentiful charm and beauty before stopping at Dolceacqua 1 for some olive oil and a walk along one of its historic trails. Then loop back to Sanremo.

From Sanremo take the SS1 then SP59 and SP61 to Perinaldo; then loop on the SP62, SP63, SP64 and back.

The Western Riviera

Staying at Oneglia 8 visit the olive oil museum before whizzing off to Porto Maurizio 7 for a walk along its promenade. Enjoy a swim before returning to Oneglia for a long lunch. Refreshed, set off to Cervo 9 for a stroll and, if lucky, a concert.

Take the SS1 all the way along the coast.

..................Content has been hidden....................

You can't read the all page of ebook, please click here login for view all page.
Reset
44.222.90.25