Gourmet Umbria
Southeastern Umbria is dominated culturally by Spoleto, one of Italy’s most beautiful towns, and geographically by the Apennine Mountains. The area is rich in both art and gastronomy. Roman remains and Romanesque architecture provide a special backdrop to sampling the region’s recipes. The dense forests in the high country are the source of the sought-after and very expensive truffle, which is on the menu at many of the region’s restaurants, and the pork butchers of Norcia are regarded as Italy’s finest. The surrounding terrain is spectacular, sometimes surreal and wrapped in history.
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5 THE PASS ABOVE THE PIANO GRANDE
8 ABBAZIA DI SANT’ EUTIZIO, PRECI
ACTIVITIES
Enjoy an evening of culture at one of Spoleto’s theatres, which have full programmes all year round, not just for the Festival
Stroll around the speciality food shops of Norcia, renowned for its charcuterie and legumes
Learn to hang-glide or para-sail in the high Monti Sibillini
Ramble across the gentle slopes and peaks of the Piano Grande for stunning views of the Monti Sibillini
Trek on horseback or pony across the plains of the Piano Grande near Castelluccio
The impressive 12th-century Abbazia di Sant’ Eutizio, Preci
Window display of Salumeria Padrichelli, packed with local produce, Spoleto
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Spoleto to Preci.
Number of days: 2–3, allowing half a day to explore Spoleto.
Distance: Spoleto to Preci 146 km (91 miles). Add 40 km (25 miles) from Preci back to Spoleto.
Road conditions: The roads are well maintained but they are mountainous and should be driven with great care. In winter snow chains are mandatory.
When to go: The best time is between May and September with a preference for late spring to catch the wild flowers. The weekends can get busy around Castelluccio in summer.
Opening hours: Museums are usually open daily 10am–6pm, though small ones close for lunch between 12:30pm and 3pm. Most are closed on Mondays. Shops tend to open 9am–1pm and 4–8pm, although most are shut on Monday mornings and Sundays. Food shops are closed on Thursday afternoons in Umbria although in tourist hot spots they remain open seven days a week. Churches tend to open 9am–12:30pm and 3:30–6pm.
Main market days: Spoleto: Fri in Piazza Garibaldi, Mon–Sat am in Piazza del Mercato; Norcia: Thu; Visso: Fri.
Shopping: Look out for truffles, salami from Norcia and Castelluccio lentils.
Major festivals: Spoleto: Festa dei Due Mondi (arts), Jun–Jul; Cerreto di Spoleto: Sagra del Ciarlatano (history and folklore), mid-Aug; Norcia: Black truffle festival, Feb; Castelluccio: La Fioritura (wild flowers in bloom), May–Jul.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
It is possible to visit the area in a number of day trips. Foodies will enjoy exploring the delicatessens of Norcia and Castelluccio, while sports enthusiasts can spend time horse riding, hiking or mountain biking across the Piano Grande. For full details, see Day trip options.
Panoramic view of the town of Castelluccio