Castelli Romani
Some 20 km (12 miles) southeast of Rome the ancient Roman road, Via Tuscolana, begins its gentle climb through the sloping forests of the Colli Albani. In the Middle Ages these hills were fortified with castles and the 13 Castelli Romani villages are chiselled into the landscape of the long-extinct Vulcano Laziale at altitudes of up to 900 m (2,959 ft). Rome’s nobles, Vatican officials and the Pope have been finding summer refuge in the chestnut- and oak-covered hills for centuries. Roman roads run through the hills dotted with farms, vineyards, elegant villas, wild flowers and strawberry stalls. During harvest time, the area bustles with activity as the grapes for the excellent Colli Albani and Frascati DOC white wines are harvested.
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ACTIVITIES
Walk the 10-km (6-mile) circumference around the clear waters of Lago Albano
Picnic at night on Frascati’s Belvedere and enjoy the twinkling panorama of Rome below
Take a cycle ride in the Colli Tuscolani
Wine and dine in typical Roman cantine and osterie
Take the picturesque train ride from Frascati to Rome and back in a day
Tour the wineries between Frascati and Grottaferrata
Pastures near ancient Roman ruins in the Colli Tuscolani
The bric-a-brac market in the Piazza Roma, Frascati
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Frascati to Rocca Priora.
Number of days: 3, allowing a day and a half to tour Lago Albano and Lago Nemi, half a day in Frascati, and a day of eno-gastronomy or walking in the Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani.
Road conditions: Generally excellent roads with a few winding climbs and descents. Best to avoid town centres.
Distance: 60 km (37 miles).
When to go: The weather is mild year-round. Summer weekends are the busiest time and the narrow roads are likely to become congested.
Opening times: Most museums open 9am–7pm and often close Mon and Sun afternoon, with shorter hours in winter. Churches can be unpredictable, and usually close noon–3 or 4pm.
Main market days: Frascati: Wed; Grottaferrata: Mon; Rocca di Papa and Castel Gandolfo: Fri; Albano Laziale: Thu; Genzano: Tue; Nemi: Sat.
Major festivals: Frascati: Carnevale Tuscolano (folkloric festival), Feb; Festa delle Ville Tuscolana (summer festival of entertainment, mostly at Villa Torlonia), Jun–Aug; Festa della Cortesia, last weekend in Oct for the end of the wine harvest; Grottaferrata: Fiera di Grottaferrata, late Mar/early Apr; Castel Gandolfo: Sagra delle Pesche (peaches), last weekend Jul; Genzano: Infiorata (flowers), 2nd weekend Jun; Nemi: Sagra delle Fragole di Nemi (strawberries), first Sun in Jun; Rocca Priora: Sagra dell’Agnello, late Aug; Sagra del Fungo Porcino (mushrooms), Sep.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
From Frascati, visit Roman remains, and a magnificent fortified monastery; admire the view from tiny hilltop towns and walk to the top of a mountain – then enjoy a glass of wine. From Nemi, pack some strawberries and see a papal palace, Bernini masterpieces and grand villas all with perfect lake views; have a swim and finish off with a tour of Roman ruins. For full details, see Day Trip Options.
The 17th-century Cattedrale di San Pietro Apostolo, Frascati