Camarda is the gateway to the Gran Sasso d’Italia (Big Rock of Italy) mountain range and national park, and Campo Imperatore. Excellent restaurants in the area such as Elodia also attract visitors here. Ten minutes’ drive north at Assergi, the funivia (cable car) glides up the mountain to Campo Imperatore.

The Gran Sasso massif is southern Italy’s top ski destination. During the summer take an invigorating hike over its rounded limestone mountains or make the guided climb up central Italy’s highest mountain, Corno Grande, standing at 2,912 m (9,554 ft). For information contact Gran Sasso Tourist Centre (0862 605 21; www.gransassolagapark.it).

In summer take SS17bis southeast, then turn sharp right on SP7 to Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Continue towards the tower. Park on the road before the entrance to the Sextantio hotel. Santo Stefano is closed to traffic. In winter (Oct–May) the road is closed. Take SS17bis south to Pagánica, bear left on SP103 and turn left on SS17 to Barisciano. Turn right on SP7 and head north to Santo Stefano di Sessanio.

The road from Campo Imperatore to Santo Stefano di Sessanio curves around mountain tops past small lakes, sheep and cattle tracks until the fortified town comes into view, silhouetted on a hilltop. Constructed around the year 1000, in later centuries the town belonged for a time to the Medici family. Almost completely abandoned in the mid-20th century, the small town was restored by a Milanese investor using traditional building methods, such as the forked trunk of a chestnut tree as a roof support. This preserved the town’s ancient patina and cleverly hid energy-efficient modern comforts.

It is possible to watch artisans make soap, candles and textiles, sample herbal teas and learn about herbal remedies. Santo Stefano’s Ensemble in Residence plays a series of classical and modern concerts, a conscious decision to avoid folk clichés and emphasize quality.

Look for similar careful restoration in Calascio (67020 Calascio), another Gran Sasso town that also originated around 1000 and claims to have Italy’s highest fortress, the Rocca Calascio, with four round towers that were added in the 15th century. Also restored by the owner of Sextantio, Rocca Calascio was one of the locations used for the films Ladyhawke and The Name of the Rose.

From Santo Stefano take the SP7 southeast, continue through Rocca Calascio to the SP8a/SP98 then take the SP72 to Capestrano.

Named for the Franciscan friar San Giovanni Capestrano, born here in 1386, Capestrano sits on the crest that divides the Navelli plain and the Ofena basin. In the main piazza the cathedral stands opposite the Castello Piccolomini-Medici, which now serves as the city hall. The funerary statue, Warrior of Capestrano, was discovered here by a farmer in 1934. Dating from the 6th century BC it is now the centrepiece of Chieti’s Archaeological Museum, and has become the symbol of Abruzzo.

From Capestrano, go back up the SP72, then head southwest on the SS153 towards Navelli.

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | Caspestrano

This hilltop town is famed for its precious saffron, produced by the crocus flowers that bloom on the wide Navelli plain. The town itself has changed little over the centuries. No bars, shops, or trattorias interrupt the stone houses. Stairways and stone walkways pass under diagonal rustic arches. Some homes have courtyards that are home to chickens, roosters and other animals. The tourist office is located in the piazza at the base of town, near the local coffee bar.

From Navelli head southeast on the SS17 towards Sulmona. At the south end of town, near Via Circ. Orientale, there is a covered car park.

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | GRAN SASSO

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | GRAN SASSO

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | GRAN SASSO

Situated at the foot of the Maiella Mountains, between two national parks, Sulmona is renowned for its confetti (crunchy sugar-coated almonds) and its master goldsmiths. The central square is one of the region’s most picturesque, framed by a stunning medieval aqueduct.

A one-hour walking tour

From the car park walk north on Corso Ovidio, the town’s main shopping street. At Piazza Carmine turn right under the arches of the medieval aqueduct, Acquedotto Medievale 1, into grand Piazza Garibaldi 2. The piazza hosts a bustling morning market (Wed, Sat). On the northern side of the square is the Fontana del Vecchio, the Old Man Fountain, built in 1474 and said to represent Solimo, the mythical founder of Sulmona. Admire the deeply recessed portals adorning the nearby Chiesa di San Francesco della Scarpa. Return to Corso Ovidio and continue north, past Piazza XX Settembre with its statue of Ovid 3. Stop at Rapone Confetti 4 to try the confetti flavoured with Navelli saffron, then pause to look at the jewellery displayed in Camillo Canale. Further along is the Complesso SS. Annunziata 5 (closed Sun–Mon), the city museum housed in the former church. The nearby Caffè Ovidio 6 (Corso Ovidio 224) is a good place to have a coffee and a quick bite to eat. Continue on to Viale Roosevelt to the 8th-century Cattedrale di San Panfilo 7. The façade has Romanesque bas-reliefs and a 1391 Gothic portal, and inside are fragments of 15th-century frescoes and a 12th–17th-century crypt. Return on Corso Ovidio, turn left onto Via Solimo. Visit Mirella’s 8, a tiny shop selling beautiful hand-embroidered linens. Turn right and follow Via Gramsci to the Teatro Comunale 9. Take Via Antonio de Nino back towards Corso Ovidio and retrace your steps to the car park.

A short drive from the centre of Sulmona (follow signs on SS17), on the slopes of Monte Morrone, is the Sito Archeologico Ercole Curino (sanctuary of Hercules Curino). One of the region’s most significant archaeological sites, it has magnificent views over the valley.

Take the SR479 to Scanno.

This well-kept medieval hill-town, on a rocky spur by a clear mountain lake, is extremely popular, especially in the summer. The lake is perfect for canoeing or windsurfing. Scanno retains a medieval feel with its narrow alleys, courtyards and Renaissance churches, the most important of which is Santa Maria della Valle (open daily). The medieval fountain Fontana Sarracco with its Romanesque arches has become one of the town’s symbols. Artisans still practise crafts such as lacemaking in styles particular to Abruzzo. The Museo della Lana (open daily Jul–Aug and most weekends) explores the art of woolmaking.

Return to Sulmona on SR479. Take SP13a east to Pacentro and continue on SR487 to Caramanico Terme. Park next to the Tourist Information Centre at Corso Bernardi 39 or on Via Vivaio.

The rounded Maiella Mountains are part of the enormous Parco Nazionale della Maiella. The forested peaks and valleys of the national park offer abundant opportunities for walking, climbing, cycling, and spotting birds and wildlife. Abruzzo’s highest ski lift ascends 1,650 m (3,280 ft) to Guado di Coccia for winter skiing and summer hiking along trails in the Maiella massif.

Caramanico Terme is a pretty spa town situated at the confluence of the Ofento and Orta rivers. The health benefits of its sulphur-rich waters have been known since the 16th century (www.termedicaramanico.it).

From Caramanico Terme, take the SR487 north to Scafa, and turn right onto the SS5. Turn right again, following signs for Turrivalignani and Manopello, then for Serramonacesca and Pretoro. Passing Pretoro, follow signs on the SP214 for Guardiagrele.

Set on a forested slope, Guardiagrele is a major centre for crafts. Artisans still ply their trade in copper, iron, gold, wool, ceramics and textiles. The church of Santa Maria Maggiore, (open daily) with its Gothic portal.

The area around Guardiagrele is a good place to sample Abruzzo wines, from the robust red Montepulciano to whites like Trebbiano, Passarino and Pecorino. Wineries require appointments, so be sure to pre-book.

Take the SS81 north to Chieti.

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | SULMONA

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | PARCO NAZIONALE DELLA MAIELLA

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | SULMONA

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | SULMONA

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | GUARDIAGRELE

A modern city with good shopping, Chieti also has some Roman ruins such as the theatre (Via Zecca) and temples from Emperor Nero’s reign. Teatro Marrucino is a lovely 19th-century theatre on Largo G Valignani.

Chieti has two impressive archaeological museums. Museo Archeologico Nazionale d’Abruzzo (Villa Comunale 2; closed Mon) contains some of Abruzzo’s most important finds, including a famous bronze statue called the Warrior of Capestrano. The archaeological complex and user-friendly museum, La Civitella (Via G Pianell; www.lacivitella.it; closed Mon) houses local bronzes and ceramics.

Take the SS649 east towards Francavilla al Mare. Follow the signs to the Museo Michetti, where there is a car park.

Francavilla al Mare is one of Abruzzo’s most charming seaside resorts and a cultural centre. Perched on a hill overlooking the sea is the Museo Michetti (www.fondazionemichetti.it; closed Mon, Sat–Sun am). Two grand paintings by Paolo Michetti (1851–1929) are reason enough to stop here. His painting of the Serpari procession combines the exoticism of Cocullo’s annual May snake procession, which has pagan origins, and the 19th-century Orientalists’ use of light in painting. The museum continues to collect the works of his contemporaries, and modern art.

From Francavilla al Mare SS16 south to San Vito Chietino, SP81/SP82 southwest to Lanciano. Car park is at Ripa Civitanova near Largo Appello.

Lanciano’s four quarters radiate out from the central Piazza del Plebescito. In the piazza is the imposing Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Ponte which was built atop a Roman bridge. Art-lovers will delight in the Casa Museo Federico Spoltore, dedicated to Spoltore (1902–88). Following his death, the artist’s house was transformed into a museum (Via Federico Spoltore 4 ), lovingly maintained with the painter’s original furnishings and housing examples of his work. The Cistercian-Gothic church of Santa Maria Maggiore, built in 1227, has medieval figures on the façade. Inside is a processional silver cross sculpted by Nicola da Guardiagrele, the 15th-century sculptor honoured with one-man shows in Rome and Florence during 2008 and 2009.

From Lanciano return to San Vito Chietino and the Trabocco Coast.

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | Lanciano

The Trabocco Coast extends from Ortona south to Vasto and is less than an hour’s drive from the Maiella Mountains. Along the coastal road there are examples of the vanishing, trabocchi. Laws to help preserve these ancient fishing wharfs have allowed them to be developed into museums observation points or summer dining spots. At San Vito Chietino a surviving trabocco sits on an open beach. Others are in secluded coves such as the one near Fossacesia.

Near Fossacesia is the Abbazia San Giovanni in Venere (open daily). The name translates as St John in Venus, indicating the presence of an earlier temple. This Benedictine monastery and church dates from the 6th century. The church has 13th-century frescoes and a crypt with Roman columns. Vasto and other coastal towns are famous for the dish of brodetto, a stew of fish, seafood and peppers.

From San Vito Chietino go south on SS16. Take Via Strada Statale Lanciano Fossacesia Est. Right on SP106/Via SP San Giovanni in Venere and park below the abbey. Continue south on SS16 to Termoli. Park at the port.

Once an ancient fishing port, Termoli is now a popular resort with several lovely beaches, such as Spiaggia di Sant’Antonio, north of the town’s walls. Termoli’s historic centre is enclosed by a wall and many of the houses have been restored. In the central square, the Romanesque Duomo (open daily) is dedicated to St Mary of Purification and houses 12th–13th-century relics of the city’s patron saints – Bassus and Timoteus.

Termoli’s port has year-round ferry services to the nearby Tremiti Islands. The islands are very popular with Italians. San Domino has a sandy beach and is good for swimming. Close to Termoli port there is a fish market every morning.

Climb the flight of steps from the port to explore Termoli’ s Castello Svevo (open daily). Built in the 11th century, it was later extensively renovated by Frederick II (1194–1240), after it was damaged during an attack by the Venetian fleet. The castle was once part of a wider fortification system, including a wall surrounding the entire city, but today only one tower remains.

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | TRABOCCO COAST

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | FRANCAVILLA AL MARE

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | CHIETI

Trip 16: Abruzzo: Mountains And Sea | CHIETI