Neapolitan Riviera
Travellers seeking sun, sea and superb cuisine have come to Naples and the Amalfi coast ever since Roman emperors first made the place fashionable. And today, the bustling city of Naples provides lively street scenes that unfold at castles, palaces and in piazzas. The coast, however, offers a more relaxing world of dramatic vistas of towering cliffs set against an expanse of glittering blue sea. In pretty coastal towns, cafés are draped in cascading flowers and citrus scents and medieval alleyways are a temptation to explore. Finally, if the heat gets too much, there is always the chance for a refreshing dip in the sea, perhaps under the unflinching gaze of some magnificent Greek temples.
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ACTIVITIES
Take a lesson in time travel at Naples’ Museo Archeologico before doing it for real at Herculaneum and Pompeii
Drive along some of the world’s most breathtaking scenic roads around the Sorrento and Amalfi coasts
Swim beneath the cliffs and sun on beaches in Positano and Amalfi
Listen to a concert in Ravello on a stage that uses the sea as a backdrop
Visit a working buffalo farm in Paestum, and try bufala (buffalo milk) ice cream and mozzarella
Go diving in the bay of Naples and see the incredible Parco Sommerso di Baia
The stunning Amalfi coastline bathed by the Tyrrhenian Sea
Glorious view from the terrace of the Rossellinis Restaurant, Ravello
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Naples to Grotte dell’Angelo.
Number of days: 4 with a day in Naples to explore the city and an island or archaeological site.
Distance: 249 km (155 miles).
Road conditions: Well-paved and signposted, some hairpin bends. Petrol stations are few, so fill the tank before departure. On narrow roads, buses and large vehicles have precedence.
Opening times: Museums and shops in southern Italy tend to open 9am–7pm or later, closing earlier on Sun and in winter. Many places also close 1–4pm for lunch and are closed Mon. Churches usually open daily 7am–12:30pm and 4–7pm; avoid visiting during services.
When to go: Swimming season is May–Oct. Jul–Aug is the busiest for the coast. Winter is often sunny, but some coastal establishments only open Easter–Oct.
Main markets: Naples (Montesanto): Mercato Alimentare della Pignasecca, food market on Via Marina; Mercato del Pesce di Porta Nolana, fish market near Piazza Garibaldi; Naples (Poggioreale): clothes and shoes market; Amalfi: Wed.
Major festivals: Naples: The Miracle of San Gennaro, 1st Sun of May and 19 Sep; Maggio dei Monumenti (special events at historic sites, open May & Jun), May; Sorrento: Lemon festival, May; Massa Lubrense: Lemon festival, Jun; Festival della Tarantella, Sep; Positano: Sbarco dei Saraceni (recalling the Saracen invasion), 14 August; Feast of Assumption of Mary, Aug 15; Amalfi: Chamber Music Festival along coast, Jun/Jul; Caserta (Belvedere di San Leucio): Leuciana Festival, Sep; Ravello: Ravello Arts Festival, May–Oct.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
History enthusiasts can begin in Naples with the Palazzo Reale, grand castles and Museo Archeologico, and then visit Herculaneum and Pompeii. Sybarites can take their pleasure on a winding coastal road to the cliffside towns of hard-to-leave Positano, pretty Amalfi, cultural Ravello and scientific Salerno. For full details, see Day Trip Options.