The beauty of Naples lies in its grand castles, palaces and churches, in the splendour of its blue boat-filled bay and in the history of its ancient ruins. It is easy to see why the city has been a chic destination for centuries. However, Naples can be a challenging place; be aware that it is notorious for pick pockets and the traffic is anarchic. If it gets too much, get away from it all on a spa-covered island or by hiking up a volcano. Nowhere else is such variety so close and accessible.

A two-hour walking tour

From the car park follow the coastal road west around the bay to Castel dell’Ovo 1 (open daily). The Santa Lucia neighbourhood resembles a film set with its restaurants, marina, and sailing club, and Vesuvius as the backdrop. Head up Via Chiatamone to Piazza dei Martiri 2 for a glimpse of Naples’ contemporary art scene at Alfonso Artico and Gallery Navarra, then head northeast on Via Chiaia past Galleria Fonti 3. Via Chiaia is a key area for la passeggiata, the ritual walk at dusk in one’s finery before a night out. Entering the grand Piazza Plebiscito 4, admire its central church San Francesco di Paola (open daily) inspired by Rome’s Pantheon. Enjoy a cappuccino or caffé shakerato (iced coffee) at Gran Caffè Gambrinus, looking at the Royal Palace. Built in the early 17th century by Domenico Fontana, the Palazzo Reale (closed Wed) was home to the Bourbon and Savoy families. Highlights include the Hercules Salon, Throne Room, 1768 Court Theatre and the National Library with its beautiful illuminated medieval manuscripts. From Piazza Plebiscito, walk past the famous opera house (seats 3,000) Teatro San Carlo 5 (Via San Carlo 101–3), and through the magnificent 1884 glass-roofed shopping arcade, Galleria Umberto I, to exit on Via Toledo. Gay-Odin Cioccolateria 6, still in its original location (Via Toledo 427), makes delicious chocolates. Turn right at Via Benedetto Croce to Santa Chiara 7 (closed Sun) – named after Clare, the companion of St Francis to whom Robert of Anjou dedicated its construction in 1310. The church cloister is brightened by 18th-century majolica tiles and its Museo dell’Opera (open daily) holds the royal tombs of the wide-ranging medieval Angevin dynasty – and ruins of Roman baths. The Piazza del Gesù Nuovo has the imposing façade of Chiesa Gesù Nuovo, studded with hundreds of small pyramids. Further along are several pastry shops, such as Scaturchio Pasticceria 8. At Piazzetta Nilo, turn left onto Via Nilo, then left towards Piazza Luigi Miraglia. Follow Via Costantinopoli with its artisan shops to Piazza Museo Nazionale and the Museo Archeologico 9 (closed Tue). Marvel at Greek, Egyptian and Etruscan art and the best finds from Pompeii, Herculaneum and other ancient cities. This is perfect preparation for visits to Pompeii and the other archaeological sites. Return on Via Toledo, past Piazza Dante 0, to Piazza Plebiscito.

Take A3 Autostrada to Ercolano exit. Follow signs to Ercolano Scavi (Archaeological Excavations). The car park is on Via Alveo (off Via Resina).

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | NAPLES

Named after Hercules, this ancient Roman town was destroyed by Vesuvius in AD 79 – the same blast that engulfed Pompeii with rocks and ash. Herculaneum was entombed in superheated mud, preserving plants and textiles. At the Herculaneum Archaeological Excavations (Ercolano Scavi, Corso Resina; open daily; www.Pompeiisites.org), pick up a map and visit the House of Neptune and Amphitrite for its luminous mosaics, while the shop next door still has wooden shelves and ceramic jugs. Recent excavations have revealed some delightful frescoes in the Papyri Villa.

To visit Vesuvius from Ercolano, follow signs in town for “Vesuvio”. The scenic drive through vineyards – the ash has made the soil very fertile – with great views of the Bay of Naples, takes about 20 minutes to reach the car park at the top. It is possible to walk the 4 km (2½ miles) up to the volcano’s steaming 600-m (1,970-ft) wide crater in about three hours.

Return to the Autostrada A3; take the Torre Annunziata Nord for Oplontis.

A suburb of Pompeii, Oplontis was also destroyed by Vesuvius. Now overrun by Torre Annunziata, Oplontis merits a detour to see the remains of the huge villa and gardens of Emperor Nero’s wife, Poppaea Sabina. Villa Poppaea (Via Sepolcri 1; 081 862 1755; open daily) is one of the grandest and best-preserved villas from the first century AD with delightful trompe l’oeil frescoes, fine mosaics and brilliant Pompeii-red walls. Slightly scruffy Torre Annunziata gets its name from the towers built to warn against Saracen raids and a chapel of the Virgin Mary.

Take the A3 towards Salerno and turn off on Pompei Ovest – follow signs to the archaeological site. There are several well-marked car parks.

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | NAPLES (NAPOLI)

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | CONCARNEAU

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | NAPLES (NAPOLI)

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | NAPLES (NAPOLI)

When Vesuvius erupted in AD 79 the port and its 20,000 inhabitants were perfectly preserved by the volcano’s ashes. Pompeii (open daily) has transfixed visitors since its discovery in the 18th century. Exquisite mosaics and wall paintings among the ruins of theatres, shops, homes and temples offer total immersion into the Roman world. Visit the site when it opens in the morning, or in mid-afternoon when the breeze picks up and the crowds are gone. Near the centre and unmissable Forum and theatres, the Lupanare Brothel displays frescoes showing the speciality of each worker. A bakery even has charred remains of some bread. Once inside the site, try to get away from the crowds by walking to Villa dei Misteri – about 10 minutes or so from the Forum, but worth the walk to see the mysterious tale displayed in a private villa. The luminous figures in a fresco on the villa’s interior walls are shown on the famous Pompeii-red background. An adolescent girl is prepared for some initiation rite, perhaps to enter the cult of Dionysus or Orpheus.

Take Via Plinio to A3 Autostrada, exit Castellammare di Stábia. Follow signs for SS145 to Vico Equense. Follow signs to “centro” – park at Piazza Mercato.

Originally located on the shoreline, the people of Vico Equense moved to the clifftop when pirates and weather made life below too risky. Visit the Antiquarium (Corso G. Filangieri 98; open Mon, Wed & Fri am, Tue & Thu pm) for a good pre-Roman archaeological collection from more than 200 necropoli discovered in the area. Children will enjoy the Museo Mineralogico Campano (Via San Ciro 2; closed Mon and Sun am) with its glowing minerals, dinosaur eggs and fossils. Church buffs can admire the colourful majolica dome of SS Ciro e Giovanni (Via San Ciro, Piazza Umberto) dedicated to the town’s patrons, and the 14th-century red and white Gothic-Baroque Annunziata Cathedral (Via Vescovado), poised dramatically at the edge of the cliffs. Enjoy a “pizza metro”, cut to the size you want (the town claims it as its own invention). Head for the beaches at the base of the cliffs, or soak in mineral springs in Scrajo Terme (SS145; 081 1904 2063; www.scrajoterme.it). For some exercise, take the SS269 Via Moiano up to the village of Monte Faito, through forests and past farm hamlets to trails on Monte Faito (1,131 m/3,732 ft) – the highest peak in the Monti Lattari, with views of the bay, Vesuvius and a 10th-century castle built by the Duke of Sorrento.

Take SS145 to Sorrento. Park on Via Cocumella for access to the beach.

Captivating the visitor with stunning views, Sorrento is infused with the perfume of its citrus trees, a constant reminder to sample the local liqueur, limoncello. Walk the cliff paths for panoramic sea views or mingle with the locals in their passeggiata down at the port, or swim and sunbathe. If the walk back up is too steep, for a small fee, take the elevator to Piazza Vittoria. The Museobottega della Tarsialignea (Palazzo Pomarici Santomasi, Via San Nicola 28; closed Sun) tells the story of Sorrento’s famous intarsio (inlaid wood). See it in the choir stalls in the medieval Cattedrale di San Filippo e Giacomo (Corso Italia 1; open daily) and in the Museo Correale di Terranova (Via Correale 50; closed Tue). Browse the shops that line the narrower streets parallel to Corso Italia. Sorrento’s patron saint, Anthony, has a basilica on Piazza Sant’Antonino that was built around the year 1000, probably over an ancient temple.

Take SS145 to Massa Lubrense then to Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. Pay for on-street parking in Sant’Agata.

A headland comprising 18 villages, Massa Lubrense is more rustic than its glamorous neighbours. At its tip is Punta della Campanella, probably once the site of a Greek temple. Hike here from the towns of Termini or Nerano over patches of Roman road. The point takes its name from the lighthouse, built in 1335 (modified 1566) with a bell (campana) to warn of pirates. Gourmets head for Don Alfonso at Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, a town on a crest with views of the gulfs of Naples and Salerno. An hour’s hike up to the Benedictine monastery grounds, Monastero del Deserto (Via Deserto 23; monastery not open to visitors) offers fabulous views of the two bays.

From Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi take SS145, becoming SS163 to Positano. There are two car parks on Via Pasitea.

The pastel houses that tumble down Positano’s natural basin are bathed in fennel and citrus scents from the tiers of gardens and terraces. At the Tourist Office (Via del Saracino 4), pick up a map before admiring the Duomo and its colourful majolica dome; inside, the Black Madonna recalls the Byzantine era. For locals and visitors, however, Positano is about style and relaxation, so enjoy both while people-watching in a café such as La Sirenuse (Via C. Colombo 30, 84017). Legend has it that the Li Galli rocks in the bay were the haunt of the Sirens whose singing lured sailors to their doom. The Sirens may be gone (as have the rocks’ other famous inhabitants, dancers Leonide Massine and Rudolph Nureyev), but it is possible to take a boat trip from a beach kiosk and enjoy a relaxing visit to the islets – now a nature reserve – and a refreshing swim.

Take SS163 to Amalfi and park at Piazza Flavio Gioa by the marina.

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | SORRENTO

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | SORRENTO

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | POMPEII

Once a mighty maritime republic, Amalfi has plenty to see. The 15th-century watchtower, Torre di San Francesco (known as Torre Saracena) now hosts a romantic restaurant. The Duomo glitters when the sun strikes the gold mosaics on its pediment and pointed arches throw chiaroscuro (light and shade) to the cathedral’s portico. Uphill, the Supportico Rua Nova Mercantorum, tunnels that led to Arab baths in the 12th century, now offers a shady, alternative parallel to the high street. The Museo della Carta in Valle dei Mulini (Via delle Cartiere; open daily; Nov–Feb: closed Mon) tells the story of Amalfi’s famous papermaking industry. Nearby, the Cooperativa Amalfitana (Via delle Cariere 55/57) sells the favourite local tipple, limoncello, by the bottle.

Take the SS163 and turn left up the SS373 to Ravello. Park after the tunnel.

Ravello’s mountaintop perch means that it lacks the beaches of Positano and Amalfi, but this suits locals and visitors alike who prefer its arts scene away from the crowds of the coastal towns. Not so in the 12th century, when Ravello was a major trader with the Orient – a history reflected in its Moorish architectural details. The town’s many steps keep the pace slow but reward the effort with stunning sea views. The summer arts festival attracts a sophisticated audience for dance, music and drama, Ravello Festival (www.ravellofestival.com). The town has many deluxe hotels and fine dining to match – among Europe’s best. Ravello’s main sight is the cathedral Santa Maria Assunta (open daily), dedicated to the town’s patron saint, Pantaleone, with its 1179 bronze door. Next to the Duomo, Villa Rufolo (Piazza Duomo; open daily) has Moorish influences and a lush garden.

Return to the SS163 coastal road to Salerno. On Lungomare Trieste, park at Piazza della Concordia.

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | Ravello

A bustling major port, Salerno’s pretty and quiet medieval centre is reached via Porta Nova. Villa Comunale (open daily), the town garden by the lovely theatre, is the ideal spot to freshen up with a lemon granita. The cathedral, Duomo di San Matteo (Piazza Alfano I; open daily), has a courtyard built using 28 Roman columns and its 11th-century bronze door was cast in Constantinople. Beautifully carved medieval ivory panels make a visit to Museo Diocesano (San Matteo; open am daily) worthwhile. Above town, the massive Castello Arechi, its long and turbulent history reflected in its mix of architectural styles, commands the 300-m (984-ft) hill along with the San Liberato Monastery, both offering great views. The elevator, Ascensore Comunale, ascends to Giardino di Minerva (Via Ferrante Sanseverino 1) a medieval medical garden and a reminder that Salerno once housed one of Italy’s first schools for surgeons.

Head south on Lungomare Trieste to the SS18 then continue south, past Battipáglia, all the way to Paestum.

Three majestic Greek temples, better preserved than most in Greece, can be found in the Area Archeologica (Via Magna Grecia 919; open daily). The Temple of Ceres (500 BC), originally attributed to the goddess of agriculture and fertility, has been more recently identified with Athena, the goddess of wisdom. Proximity to the sea may have influenced the naming of the Temple of Neptune (450 BC), but current theories favour Zeus, the mightiest of the Greek gods. Paestum’s Basilica (550 BC), the oldest and best-preserved temple, was dedicated to the goddess Hera, wife of Zeus, and has nine tapered columns in the front and 18 on the side. On site, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Paestum (closed first and third Mon of each month) has fascinating frescoes from the Tomb of the Diver, found here in 1968.

Also visit Azienda Barlotti, a mozzarella factory (Via Torre di Paestum) that makes and sells mozzarella, and ice cream made from bufala milk.

Take SS18 north, turn right (east) onto SS166, following signs for Capáccio/Roccadáspide. Continue on SS166 for 48 km (30 miles), then take the first exit at the roundabout to SS19 (north). On SS19, follow the brown sign to Pertosa-Grotte dell’Angelo.

Near the Tanagro river east of the Monti Alburni, at Pertosa lie the Grotte dell’Angelo (Angel Caves) (open daily; fondazionemida.com/grotte-pertosa-auletta). Tours take visitors around the caves that were first inhabited in the Neolithic Age. Take a boat across a lake before exploring the tunnels filled with stalactites and stalagmites, crystal formations, and into a cavernous hall 40 m (131 ft) high. Learn more about the caves at Pertosa’s Museo di Speleologia (Tourist Information Centre, Via Santa Maria).

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | AMALFI

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | AMALFI

Trip 17: Neapolitan Riviera | AMALFI