1

Alberobello

Bari, Puglia; 70011

The Strada dei Trulli (SS172) weaves past Alberobello, Locorotondo and Martina Franca, all dotted with cylindrical houses with cone-shaped roofs (trulli). There are over 1,000 trulli scattered throughout Puglia, with white walls and slate roofs often daubed with symbols. The Trulli Capital, however, is Alberobello with most examples in its Rione Monti and Aia Piccola neighbourhoods. In town, Museo del Territorio (Piazza 27 Maggio, closed Mon) is made up from a few trulli linked together and shows how they were built and furnished. Nearby Piazza Pagano is close to the heart of Aia Piccola. Peek through gaps in the houses to see the trulli in Rione Monti. For other views, go down Via Galilei, towards Via Brigata Regina and then into Rione Monti and along Via Monte San Michele.

DK Take the SS172 and head southeast to Locorotondo. Park alongside the road going uphill towards the town.

DK

Traditional trulli houses, Alberobello

2

Locorotondo

Bari, Puglia; 70010

On a ridge above the Valle d’Itria, Locorotondo affords an expansive view of farmland dotted with trulli. Enter the historic centre along Via Garibaldi or the ancient gate, Porta Nuova. The circular town plan follows the hill contours with whitewashed houses winding round in narrow streets. Locorotondo’s main church, Chiesa Madre San Giorgio Martire, built 1790–1825 is dedicated to George, the town’s dragon-slaying patron saint. Inside, one of the chapels has 14th-century stone bas-reliefs. The 15th-century Prince of Taranto built the church Santa Maria la Greca in Romanesque-Gothic style. Below town, stop at the winery, Cantina Sociale (Via Madonna della Catena 99; 080 431 1644), to pick up some good wine. They have plenty to choose from, but support the patron saint with the Casale San Giorgio, an IGT (certified local) red made from Negroamaro and Primitivo grapes. They also make champagne-method wines with a southern twist that blends Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano and Fiano grapes.

DK Drive south on SS172. Near Via Valle d’Itria, on the right, there is a car park outside the city gate by Piazza Roma.

DK

The pretty white walls and narrow streets of Locorotondo

DK

Poster advertising pasta, Puglia

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | LOCOROTONDO

The Ancient Trulli of Puglia

The trulli are made from limestone using an ancient dry-stone technique. The oldest examples date from the 16th century, but most were rebuilt from the 18th century onwards with mortar. Roofs are often cone shaped, but can be pyramids or domes, with a stone pinnacle. Clusters of trulli have often been formed into larger structures. The interiors have arched niches used for sleeping or cooking and may even have a temporary second floor constructed. Some are used for tourist accommodation.

3

Martina Franca

Taranto, Puglia; 74015

A stroll around elegant Martina Franca reveals a fine architectural heritage. Near Piazza Plebiscito, the Baroque façade of 18th-century Basilica di San Martino (Via Masaniello 1; open daily) shows St Martin sharing his cloak with a beggar. Inside has treasures too, such as the beautiful font and painting of The Last Supper. Alongside several Gothic and Baroque churches, Chiesa del Carmine (1728–58) shows the lighter touch of architect Francesco Borromini. Next door, the Villa del Carmine has good views of the Valle d’Itria. The 1668 Palazzo Ducale (Piazza Roma), now a city hall, has frescoes in the Sala dell’Arcadia by 18th-century artist Domenico Carella. End the visit with a drink at Bar Tripoli on Piazza Garibaldi, a historic 19th-century bar, or shop for L’Acropoli di Puglia cold-pressed olive oil made from Coratina olives.

DK Head back to Locorotondo on SS172 then east SP134/SP11 to Cisternino and SP17 to Ostuni. Park on-street outside the city gate.

DK

The light and elegant Piazza Plebiscito, Martina Franca

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Elaborate fanlight, Martina Franca

4

Ostuni

Brindisi, Puglia; 72017

With ancient close-packed white houses around cool courtyards and winding narrow alleyways, Ostuni is a town worth exploring. At its heart, the elevated Duomo (open daily) stands out as one of the few buildings that is not whitewashed. Built from 1435–95, this late-Gothic cathedral has a fine rose window, original roof design and a yellow ceramic-tiled dome. In the same square is the 18th-century Palazzo Vescovile, with a pretty loggia, which incorporates part of a 1198 castle. The Museo delle Civiltà Preclassiche della Murgia Meridionale (Via Cattedrale 15; open daily am) was an 18th-century monastery but now houses the skeleton of a 25,000-year-old woman, among other prehistoric finds. Chiesa di San Francesco on Piazza della Libertà is one of Ostuni’s oldest churches and has a Baroque monument to St Oronzo outside.

DK Take SP22 southwest towards Céglie Messápica, SP26 to Francavilla Fontana, then the SP54/SP96 to Manduria. Park near the main square, Piazza Garibaldi.

DK

Quiet corner in the whitewashed town of Ostuni

5

Manduria

Taranto, Puglia; 74024

The Messapians (an ancient tribe) colonized the area around Manduria in 1000 BC and thrived until defeated by the Romans in the 3rd century BC. Evidence of their culture is on display in the museum Oltre Le Mura (Via Omodei; closed Mon), whose collection includes burial artifacts of jewellery, weapons and vases. The Messapian necropolis at Parco Archeologico delle Mura Messapiche (Via Sant’Antonio; closed Mon) is also worth a visit. This museum contains some 1,200 tombs dating from the 6th–2nd centuries BC. Step forward a thousand years with a visit to the Duomo Santissima Trinità (Via Marco Gatti 8; open daily). Under the Gothic-Renaissance rose window is a tableau of the Trinity, with the Holy Father holding the dead Christ. Inside, mask motifs represent the Four Ages of Man, while the women carved into the 17th-century pulpit represent the Four Ages of the World. Manduria’s main highlight, however, is its hefty purple wine, Primitivo, named because the grapes ripen early. Primitivo wines are readily available – local ones to try include Pervini, Sinfarosa, Masseria Pepe and Tenuta Pozzopalo.

DK Take SS7ter/SP16 east to Lecce. Enter on Via Taranto, go south on Viale dell’ Università, left onto Viale Gallipoli and look for parking on the right, or try the on-street parking near the Castello.

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | ALBEROBELLO

visiting Alberobello

Parking

There is a car park with meters on Via Indipendenza – uses coins or buy a car parking card from tabacchi (no charge for overnight parking 10pm–9am).

Tourist Information

Piazza Ferdinando IV; 080 432 5171; and Pro Loco at Via Montenero 1; 080 432 2822; www.prolocoalberobello.it.

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | ALBEROBELLO

Where to stay

alberobello

Trullidea inexpensive–moderate

Rent a rustic but cosy trullo, with cooking facilities. One even has a pool. Via Monte Sabotino 24, 70011; 080 432 3860; www.trullidea.it

around Locorotondo

Agriturismo Masseria Marzalossa inexpensive–moderate

17th-century manor house with a pool. C da Pezze Vicine 65, Fasano, 72015 (SS172dir to Fasano, right on SP1bis); 080 441 3780; www.marzalossa.com

Agriturismo Masseria Maccarone inexpensive–moderate

Gracious 17th-century manor house with some frescoed ceilings. C da Carbonelli 29, Fasano, 72015 (SS172dir to Fasano, across SS16); 080 482 9300/9176; www.masseriamaccarone.it; closed Jan–Apr

Agriturismo Masseria San Domenico expensive

Luxuriously remodelled 15th-century watchtower with a private beach. Strada Litoranea 379, 72015, Savelletri di Fasano (on coast); 080 482 7769; www.masseriasandomenico.com; closed Jan–Mar

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | ALBEROBELLO

Eat AND Drink

ALBerobELLO

Ristorante Casanova moderate

Set under the arches of an ancient olive oil mill, this restaurant serves specialities such as creamy burratine cheeses and fava bean purée with chicory. Via Monte San Gabriele 16, 70011; 080 432 3292; www.casanovailristorante.it

MARTINA FRANCA

Macelleria Braceria Granaldi moderate

This traditional steakhouse serves up tender cuts of meat. Booking advised. Via Bellini 108, 74015; 080 698 7892

OSTUNI

Osteria del Tempo Perso moderate

Traditional Pugliese cuisine: orecchiette and other dishes make good use of fresh vegetables, seafood and meat. Via F Tanzarella 47, 72017; 0831 303 320; www.osteriadeltempoperso.com; closed Mon (except Jul & Aug)

MANDURIA

Osteria dei Mercanti moderate

Excellent traditional cuisine, friendly atmosphere, and good Primitivo wine by the carafe in Manduria’s historic centre. Serves pizza in the evening. Via S G Laciata 7, 74024; 099 971 2909; closed Mon

6

LECCE

Lecce, Puglia; 73100

The Baroque of Lecce is the most exuberant in Italy, the city’s soft, golden sandstone carved into the flights of fancy of its 17th-century architects. The vast Piazza Duomo is stunning but it is the detailed façades of churches such as Santa Croce that create the over-the-top splendour. The interiors are worth exploring, too, but a walk through town, admiring the exteriors, is a must.

DK

n Double-tap image to read the labels

A two-hour walking tour

From the car park at the Castello, walk along Viale Francesco Lo Re to start at the Museo Provinciale Sigismondo Castromediano 1 (Viale Gallipoli 28; 0832 683 503; open daily, closed Sat–Sun pm). The museum has Bronze Age exhibits and a collection of Attic vases. North on Viale Francesco Lo Re, the ancient Porta San Biagio leads to the 1539-49 Castello 2, commissioned by Charles V and built over an earlier Norman castle. West of the castle, Piazza Sant’Oronzo 3 is home to a bronze statue of patron St Oronzo on one of the Roman-era Appian Way’s final mile markers. It was erected in the 1600s as thanks for deliverance from the plague. Next to the column, the elliptical Roman amphitheatre, dating to Emperor Hadrian’s era, is set below street level. Walk north of the amphitheatre between Palazzo Carafa and head west on Via Vittorio Emanuele II, past a church dedicated to St Irene. Stop to admire the Piazza del Duomo 4 and the grand cathedral (open daily), Bishop’s Palace, and Seminary. Built around 1100, the Duomo’s present look is 17th-century – designed by Giuseppe Zimbalo, who also designed the five-storey bell tower. Continue on Via Emanuele, which becomes Via G Libertini, with the Baroque churches of Santa Teresa 5, the Chiesa del Rosario (Holy Rosary) 6 and Sant’Anna 7. Head back to Piazza Sant’ Oronzo, pass the north side of the Municipio and continue to Basilica di Santa Croce 8, perhaps Lecce’s most famous Baroque building. Cross over to the Giardini Pubblici 9, turn right on Viale Francesco d’Assisi to return to the car park. On the way to Otranto, stop for a swim at the San Cataldo beach.

DK From the car park take the SP364 to San Cataldo, then the SP366 to Otranto. The car park is below Otranto’s Castello.

DK

Remains of Roman amphitheatre in Lecce’s Piazza Sant’Oronzo

DK

Pretty beach at San Cataldo, near Lecce

7

Otranto

Lecce, Puglia; 73028

Enter the historic centre through the town gate Porta Terra. The 1537 Castello Aragonese (open daily Jul–Aug) is a pentagonal castle with cylindrical towers. The Romanesque Annunziata Cathedral (open daily) was built in 1088 – do not miss the fanciful 12th-century floor mosaics, nor the remains of the 800 martyrs of the 1480 invasion by the Turks. Museo Diocesano (Piazza Basilica 1; closed Mon) displays religious sculpture carved in Lecce stone, some dating to the 15th–16th centuries. In town, look out for papier-mâché, stone or wicker crafts, as well as local wines and olive oil. The drive to Capo passes the spa at Santa Cesarea Terme (www.termesantacesarea.it) – stop off for a wine-and-honey facial.

DK From the car park head south on SP358 to Leuca. Look for signs for Faro – follow the SS275. Park northeast of the lighthouse on Via Panoramica or on the SS275.

DK

Bauxite lake on the way to the coast, reflecting the red hues of the mineral, Otranto

8

Capo Santa Maria di Leuca

Lecce, Puglia; 73040

Where the “earth ends”, Capo Santa Maria di Leuca is surrounded by sheer windswept cliffs and sandy beaches. West of the lighthouse is a Roman column and monumental staircase. To the northeast is a sanctuary to Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae, probably built over an ancient Roman temple of Minerva. The nearby village of Marina di Leuca makes for a nice stroll.

DK Head north on SS274 to Gallipoli. Park on the side streets of Corso Roma.

9

Gallipoli

Lecce, Puglia; 73014

A good spot to begin exploring the place the Greeks called Kallipolis (Beautiful City) is on Corso Roma at the port, where it becomes a bridge linking to the old town. Nearby is a Greco-Roman fountain (3rd century BC) and the 17th-century Chiesa del Canneto built over ruins of a Templar church. Across the bridge the Castello Angioino has a square plan with four towers. The 17th-century Cattedrale di Sant’Agata (open daily) is splendid but no longer has its saint’s relic, Agatha’s breast. Smaller Baroque churches are hidden away in the old city centre – an ideal spot for lunch or a moonlit dinner overlooking the sea. Museo Civico (Via Antonietta De Pace 118; 0833 264 224; closed Mon) has artifacts from Messapian, Roman and medieval ages. Enjoy the aquamarine sea at one of the town’s sandy beaches. Lungomare Lido San Giovanni has a pine forest across the road from the beach.

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | LECCE

Visiting Lecce

Parking

On-street parking near the Castello.

Tourist Information

APT Lecce Via Monte San Michele 20; 0832 314 117; www.pugliaturismo.com and IAT Lecce Via V Emanuele 24; 0832 248 092; www.viaggiareinpuglia.it.

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | LECCE

Where to stay

Lecce

Patria Palace Hotel moderate

Baroque palazzo facing Santa Croce with spa and roof garden. Restaurant Atenze serves traditional cuisine. Piazzetta Riccardi 13, 73100; 0832 245 111; www.patriapalace.com

Otranto

Hotel Palazzo Papaleo moderate–expensive

Beautifully furnished rooms, excellent service and a spa make this hotel a sumptuous retreat in the town centre. Via Rondachi 1, 73028; 0836 802 108; www.hotelpalazzopapaleo.com

Gallipoli

Hotel Palazzo del Corso expensive

Luxurious hotel on the town’s main street – fine textiles and antiques, and a roof garden with views of the harbour. Corso Roma 145, 73014; 0833 264 040; www.hotelpalazzodelcorso.it

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | LECCE

Eat and Drink

LECCE

Cucina Casereccia Le Zie moderate

Serves traditional Pugliese pasta, beans, vegetables and meat dishes. Viale Colonnello Costadura 19, 73100; 0832 245 178; closed Sun pm & Mon

Alle Due Corti moderate

No-frills decor and a menu in dialect means authentic dishes like crispy pasta or casseroles with rice and mussels. Corte dei Giugni 1, 73100; 0832 242 223; www.alleduecorti.com; closed Tue

Otranto

Ristorante Peccato di Vino moderate

Delicious updates on Pugliese cuisine (potatoes layered with mussels and rice) and a good wine selection. Via Rondachi 7/9, 73028; 0836 801 488; www.peccatodivino.com; closed Tue

Gallipoli

Ristorante Roof Garden moderate

An unpretentious eatery serving simple Italian fare and great pizzas. Corso Roma 62, 73014; 0833 263 303

Il Bastione moderate–expensive

Romantic harbour setting and superb cuisine that is creative and traditional. Riviera Nazario Sauro 28, 73014; 0833 263 836; www.ilbastionegallipoli.it

Trip 18: The Heel Of Italy | LECCE

Day trip options

This drive can be broken into two day trips – one inland for those based in Alberobello, and one coastal for those staying in Lecce.

Follow the Strada dei Trulli

Based at Alberobello 1, marvel at the extraordinary clusters of domed trulli and discover their history in the Museo del Territorio. Then head off to Locorotondo 2, admiring the trulli, dotted landscape on the way. In town, see the cathedral dedicated to St George. Last stop, Martina Franca 3 and its fantastic architectural heritage, especially the Baroque basilica of the town’s patron saint, Martin.

Simply take the SS172 all the way.

Coast to Coast

Start at Lecce 6, a golden Baroque fantasy, before hitting the coast at San Cataldo for a dip in the Adriatic; head down to historic Otranto 7, then west across the heel to Gallipoli 9 for a tour and swim in the Ionian Sea.

Take SP364 then SP366 to Otranto, then SS16 to Maglie, then SP361 to Gallipoli.

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