Where to Stay

Italy has some of the most memorable places to stay in Europe, ranging from grand hotels oozing Belle Époque glamour to boutique hotels on the cutting edge of contemporary design. The agriturismo scheme, which allowed the owners of country estates, vineyards and farms to convert historic palaces, villas and barns into rooms and apartments, and the vibrant bed-and-breakfast scene have made it easier for visitors to avoid the impersonality of service found in so many traditional hotels and pensioni.

B&Bs

Since legislation came into force allowing ordinary people to offer bed and breakfast in their homes, hundreds of “B&Bs” have opened in Italy in recent years. The best of these can offer excellent value for money, as well as the opportunity to experience exceptional Italian hospitality, whether consisting of a couple of rooms in a simple city apartment, or a glamorous suite in a historic palace. The rule is that B&Bs should have no more than five rooms and that the owners have to live on the premises, although some establishments may not fully adhere to these rules. In the most genuine places, breakfasts are fantastic affairs, with home-made jams and cakes, fresh croissants, and fruit; in the worst, you are handed a cellophane-packed croissant and a juice box the night before.

If you are looking for a B&B on spec, ask if there are any staff on the premises, and, if not, how to contact the owner should the need arise. Also check if breakfast is served in the B&B, or whether they have an arrangement with a local café. Occasionally B&Bs may allow you free use of the kitchen.

Doorway of a B&B in the quiet town of Castelmuzio

Boutique Hotels

The trend for boutique hotels has found fertile ground in Italy given the plethora of historic buildings as well as the Italian sense of style, food, design and hospitality. Some boutique hotels are run by hospitality-trade professionals, others by passionate newcomers, often from the worlds of architecture and design. Visitors will find plenty of boutique hotels recommended in this book, but websites such as i-escape and Think Sicily are also well worth a browse.

Hotels

Italian hotels are given an official rating of between 1 and 5 stars (though Milan boasts the 7-star Town House Galleria – www.sevenstarsgalleria.com) based on a checklist of facilities, not cleanliness, charm or standards of service. The number of stars is based solely on facilities and services, such as the number of rooms with ensuite bathroom or telephone, if there is a restaurant on site, and whether there is 24-hour service. This means that the star rating is no guide to the subtler, more subjective charms of hotels, such as the style of decor or the friendliness or helpfulness of staff. If such things are important to you, then the accommodation recommendations made in this book should guide you towards the kind of place you are looking for.

The luxurious Hotel Danieli on the Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice

A relaxing guest lounge

Hotel room at Castel Fragsburg, Merano.

Bathing establishment along the coast near Porto Maurizio

Stylish bedroom in the Hotel Greif, Bolzano

Agriturismi

The agriturismo scheme began in the 1980s, to enable farmers and landowners to boost falling revenues by renting out converted farm buildings to tourists. They can range from cool, state-of-the-art country hotels, to simple self-catering apartments. Some serve food for guests made from home-grown produce, others have full-blown restaurants. Many offer activities such as horse riding, and some have become little country resorts with swimming pools, tennis courts and mountain bikes to rent.

Booking

It is wise to book well in advance if you are travelling in July and August or around Easter and the various springtime public holidays. Hotels in coastal and lake resorts often close between October and Easter. Reservations can often be made online, though not all sites belonging to individual hotels are secure, which may be a little unsettling if credit card details are requested as a guarantee. You can mimimize risk by booking over the phone or using a hotel-booking site with a secure website such as Trip Advisor or i-escape.

Facilities and Prices

Double rooms in Italian hotels usually have a double bed (matrimoniale) so if you prefer twin beds (due letti), it is wise to request that when you book. Single rooms are rare, and you will often end up having to pay for a single-use-of-double.

Rates in hotels are quoted per room, and in B&Bs per person. The more expensive B&Bs will usually cost the same as a 2- or 3-star hotel, but you tend to get more for your money in terms of service and surroundings. You will often find rooms at a reduced price on the internet, at one of the accommodation broker sites or on the hotel’s own website. Weekend rates in city hotels are often a bargain. In some cities you will be charged a city tax on top of the room price (usually a few euro per person per night).

Under Italian law, hotels are required to register guests at police headquarters and issue a receipt of payment (ricevuta fiscale), which you must keep until you leave Italy.

Camping

Camping is fairly popular in Italy and there are plenty of sites on the coast and in the mountains. They are usually open from April to September, though some sites stay open all year in the south and Sicily. Sites often have basic bungalows, sleeping up to six, if you do not have your own tent, and there is normally space for caravans and camper vans.

Self-catering

If you want to focus on exploring a single region of Italy, consider renting a villa or rural house for a week or two. There are lovely places to be found all over Italy, ranging from simple rustic retreats and seaside apartments, to palatial places with pools, maids, chefs and masseurs. Though the widest choice can be found in Tuscany and Umbria, Puglia and Sicily have also become popular villa destinations, with many properties in exquisitely restored ancient country houses.

Town Hall of Foza in the Altopiano.

Pool and terrace of the Royal Hotel, San Remo

Driving in Italy | CONTENTS