The guitarist Andrés Segovia (1893–1987) described Granada as a “place of dreams, where the Lord put the seed of music in my soul”. It’s not hard to see why as you explore the city’s Moorish buildings – reminders of granada’s golden period during the rule of the Nasrid dynasty from 1238 to 1492. The most impressive of these monuments are the Alhambra and Generalife, which sit on the hill above the city.
t The close-packed houses of Granada, with the Alhambra on the hill above them
Experience Andalucía
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On the orders of the Catholic Monarchs, work on Granada’s cathedral began in 1523, with Enrique de Egas as the architect. The building works continued for over 180 years, with the Renaissance maestro, Diego de Siloé, taking on the job in 1529. De Siloé also designed the façade and the magnificent Capilla Mayor. Under its dome, 16th-century windows depict Juan del Campo’s The Passion. The west front was designed by Alonso Cano, who was born in the city and whose tomb lies in the cathedral.
The Royal Chapel was built for the Catholic Monarchs between 1506 and 1521 by Enrique de Egas, although both monarchs died before it could be completed. A magnificent reja (grille) by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén encloses the high altar and the Carrara marble figures of Fernando and Isabel, their daughter Juana la Loca (the Mad) and her husband Felipe el Hermoso (the Handsome). Their coffins are in the crypt. Don’t miss the sacristy, which is full of a host of artistic treasures, including paintings by Botticelli and Van der Weyden.
Founded in 1516 by Christian warrior El Gran Capitán, this monastery has a dazzling cupola by Antonio Palomino, and a Churrigueresque sacristy by Luis de Arévalo and Luis Caballo.
t Visitors admiring the sacristry within the Monasterio de la Cartuja
A relic of the Moorish era, this galleried courtyard was a theatre in Christian times. Today it houses a cultural centre.
Built in Mudéjar style in the 1500s, this palace owes its name to the muskets projecting from its battlements (tiro means “shot”). It originally belonged to the family that was awarded the Generalife after the fall of Granada. Muhammad XII’s sword is carved on the façade.
Set in a stark, white modern building, with a sweeping external staircase, this cultural centre is home to the superb Memoria de Andalucía Museum, which hosts temporary exhibitions, and a theatre and restaurant.
Originally an Arab university, this building later became the city hall (the façade dates from the 18th century) and today is a part of Granada University. The Moorish hall has a finely decorated mihrab (prayer niche).
EXPERIENCE Andalucía
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Eat Damasqueros Order the tasty guiso (stew) at this tapas bar. ⌂ Calle de Damasqueros 3 ∑ damasqueros.com ¡¡¡ Mirador de Morayma A delightful patio restaurant, offering spectacular views. ⌂ Calle de Pianista Gracia Carrillo 2 ∑ miradordemorayma.com ¡¡¡ Tragaluz This eatery is lit by a huge skylight. ⌂ Calle Pintor López Mezquita 13 § 958 20 46 81 ¡¡¡ |