This corner of the city, on the hillside opposite the Alhambra, is where one feels closest to Granada’s Moorish ancestry. Now mostly pedestrianized, this was the site of the first fortress, built in the 13th century, along with more than 30 mosques. Most of the city’s churches were built over their sites. Along the cobbled alleys stand cármenes, villas with Moorish decoration and gardens, secluded from the world by high walls. In the jasmine-scented air of evening, stroll up to the Mirador de San Nicolás for a magical view over the rooftops of the Alhambra glowing in the sunset.