The Western Algarve (Barlavento) blends a precipitous Atlantic coastline with a green Mediterranean interior. The wild, windblown promontories associated with the legend of Henry the Navigator yield to forest-clad hills and cloud-tipped mountains. Some of the region’s most spectacular beaches nestle on the south coast under outcrops of ochre-splashed rock. Underpinning all this is a rich historical thread of Baroque churches and Manueline chapels, stark sea defences and baffling Neolithic monuments. Visitor attractions abound, with quaint restaurants in hushed villages waiting to be discovered, and lively resorts with an international clientele.
Windmill, Odeceixe
One of the most popular resort towns in southern Portugal, Lagos immediately captures the imagination with its carefree holiday spirit, laid-back lifestyle and immense historical wealth. Its greatest treasure is the Igreja de Santo António. The nearby beaches are equally attractive, with their fine golden sand, ochre-splashed cliffs and bizarre outcrops of sandstone pillars.
Monchique, a rustic little market town, is tucked away in the forested Serra de Monchique under a mantle of towering eucalyptus and magnolia. Nestling in its shadow is Caldas de Monchique, a charming leafy hamlet glowing in the fame of its renowned spa facility, where the sparkling mineral water is endowed with some remarkable curative properties. The Serra’s unique Mediterranean-Atlantic habitat is a haven for wildlife. Sweeping views from Fóia and Picota crown this hugely diverse and fertile area.
Sagres’ claim to fame is the huge landmark fort spread across the arm of the precipitous Ponta de Sagres. It is here that Henry the Navigator’s original fortress and the Vila do Infante – his legendary school of navigation – is said to have been located. Little remains of either except for perhaps the giant pebble Rosa dos Ventos (wind compass) and the plain little chapel of Nossa Senhora da Graça, both supposedly used by Henry in the 15th century. Sagres itself is a modest town bestowed with a pretty harbour and some magnificent beaches that attract surfers from around the globe.
EN 125, Raposeira • Chapel: Open May–Sep: 10:30am–1pm & 2–6:30pm, Oct–Apr: 9am–1pm & 2–5:30pm; closed Mon; adm
The main attraction, located 1 km (half a mile) east of this small village, is the 14th-century chapel Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe, thought to be one of the oldest examples of Gothic architecture in the Algarve. Henry the Navigator was said to have prayed here when he lived in Raposeira, as did many a crew before departing for unknown lands. Inside the chapel, built in honour of the Virgin of Guadalupe, enigmatic stone heads peer down from the ceiling.
An austere landscape, dramatic limestone cliffs and a restless, unforgiving sea led Greek chroniclers to describe this windblown cape as the end of the earth. The Romans revered the rocky outcrop and called it Promontorium Sacrum, a place where the setting sun hissed in its dying embers as the ocean swallowed it up. The promontory retains an air of mystique. Henry the Navigator is said to have had a house in the small castle to the right of the lighthouse.
Park headquarters: Rua Serpa Pinto 32, Odemira, Alentejo; (283) 322 735
The entire coastline of the western Algarve lies within the boundaries of this wild and rocky nature reserve. Dozens of scarce and endemic plant species thrive here – it is a botanist’s paradise. Hundreds of different species of birdlife (see Ria Formosa) flutter and glide above the coastal plains, while, not surprisingly, ornithologists gather with binoculars primed.
The huge, man-made lake 10 km (6 miles) north of Lagos is a wonderful place at which to unpack the picnic hamper. In spring, fields of orchids nestle under delicate umbrellas of almond blossom, with butterflies flitting from bloom to bloom. Towering eucalyptus encroach upon the lakeside, and the woods are a favourite haunt of red foxes and wild boar. The higher ground north of the dam is generously wooded with cork oak, and it is from this area that the best views of the lake can be enjoyed.
Windmill: Open Jun–Sep: 9am–noon & 2–6pm Tue–Sat
The River Seixe meanders past this pretty little village, which makes a handy base for surfers who are keen to ride the big swells that thunder onto Odeceixe beach. A lone windmill sitting above the village used to take advantage of the fresh winds whipped up by the Atlantic in days gone by. Today it is a popular vantage point for scanning the Alentejo countryside. This sleepy backwater is about as far as you can get from the summer throngs that pack the coastal resorts. The good-value guesthouses found here fill up fast during the summer.
Menhir Circuit, Hortas do Tabual, Vila do Bispo
The landscape around Vila do Bispo is rich with evidence of the Algarve’s prehistoric past (see Ancient Archaeology Tour). Mysterious menhirs, also known as megaliths, dot the countryside. Near Hortas do Tabual, a number of these stones, some bearing crudely carved crosses, appear to form a circle. Archaeologists speculate that this could be the site of the mythical Church of the Raven, supposedly where the remains of St Vincent were interred before being taken to Lisbon.
The humble ruins of a 10th-century Moorish castle (see Aljezur) stand sentinel-like over a higgledy-piggledy collection of whitewashed houses and café-restaurants that constitute the village of Aljezur. A steep, cobbled path leads up to the time-worn but sturdy castle walls and the splendid view beyond. This riverine area was once a breeding ground for malaria-carrying mosquitoes, and in the 18th century some of the villagers were persuaded to relocate to Igreja Nova, Aljezur’s “modern” counterpart to the east.
Breakfast in Lagos at the café in Praça Infante Dom Henrique near the castle walls, and then set out to explore the west coast.
The drive follows the EN125, crossing the boundary of the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina. The road winds on – via the tiny 14th-century chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe and the prehistoric sights of Vila do Bispo – to Sagres and its landmark 17th-century fort.
For an invigorating walk and to further appreciate the seascape at Sagres, follow the path around the promontory.
By now, it should be time for refreshments at Café-Restaurante Cochina on Praça da República. For something more substantial, try the Café-Restaurant Pau de Pita on Rua Comandante Matoso.
Sagres has a pretty harbour, which can be investigated on foot. The nearby Fortaleza de Sagres, the supposed location of Henry the Navigator’s famed academy, is definitely worthy of an hour-long exploration.
No trip to the west coast would be complete without a visit to Cabo de São Vicente, which is a short drive northwest. The clifftop vistas are truly awe-inspiring and offer a suitably dramatic way to end the day.
One of the surfer’s favourites, Amado’s Atlantic swells attract enthusiasts keen to ride the surf back into the wide sweeping beach.
A magical beach (see Praia do Camilo) and one of the most picturesque in the Algarve, Camilo is framed by a collection of sandstone outcrops and a warren of caves and grottoes.
The River Seixe runs into this delightfully secluded stretch of sand (see Praia de Odeceixe), tucked away right up in the northern reaches of the Algarve.
Surrounded by tawny-hued cliffs, this beach is accessible only by foot, and can be reached by a narrow trail that meanders through a pretty valley.
One of the best locations in the area for snorkelling and diving, the beach skirts Burgau resort and is hemmed in on either side by sloping cliffs.
A fabulous location for windsurfing, with the ocean lapping a golden swathe of sand. The beach is also conveniently situated near the town of Sagres.
The steep climb down a cliff path to the beach is rewarded with a wonderfully secluded wedge of pristine sand. Due to its slightly awkward location, it does not tend to attract many visitors.
A fine beach, with very easy access to resort amenities, Praia da Luz can become crowded in high season. However, there is always some room, especially towards its eastern flank.
Another beach preferred by keen surfers, and tourists that have a more independent spirit. This is a wild, isolated landscape with untamed breakers.
At 4 km (2 miles), this is one of the longest beaches (see Meia Praia, Lagos) in the Algarve, allowing plenty of room for sunbathers to share the vista with water-skiers and windsurfers.
Explore caves, canyons, reefs and wrecks. Many schools also offer night dives, snorkelling safaris and PADI certification courses up to professional level.
The reliable winds off Meia Praia allow windsurfers to hone their skills in an expanse of open water perfectly suited to this popular sport.
Cliff-climbing, swimming in caves and ambling along coastal paths – this is coasteering, an exhilarating way in which to explore the area between Lagos and Sagres.
One minute you are surfing, the next you are airborne. The best season for this watersport is May–Oct, and the flatwater lagoons near Lagos and Alvor are ideal locations.
www.southwesttrainingcenter.com
Sailing is ubiquitous in the Algarve, and there are plenty of schools in the region providing tuition. Cruise companies also charter yachts and organize sailing holidays.
Several sports fishing operators are based in Marina de Lagos, and use boats with state-of-the-art tackle and a fighting chair to pursue shark and marlin.
Standup paddleboarding is one of the more novel methods of exploring the coastline. Options include night-time tours using innovative underwater lighting systems.
Well sheltered from the wind, the waters off Praia da Luz provide an ideal arena in which to learn basic manoeuvres, practise wake crossings and try deep-water starts.
Kayaking is a great way to see the grottoes and beaches around Lagos' beautiful Ponta da Piedade.
West coast beaches such as Praia de Monte Clérigo and Praia do Castelejo are synonymous with surfing. There are also a wide range of surf camps and schools around.
The two busiest streets in town, where shoppers can browse the rows of stores and boutiques for jewellery, handicrafts and fashion.
José Salvador, Estrada Velha, Monchique
One of the few places in the Algarve where you can purchase cadeiras de tesoura, the traditional folding wooden chairs, which are hand-crafted to an ancient Roman design.
Rua Soeiro da Costa 26, Lagos
A handy health-food shop selling a huge selection of minerals, vitamins, homeopathic remedies and natural cosmetics.
Praça do Infante 1, Lagos
A wide range of handmade jewellery fashioned out of gold, silver, mother-of-pearl, amber and precious stones.
Rua Silva Lopes 31, Lagos • www.lagossurfcenter.com
An outlet for O’Neill, Rip Curl, Billabong and Quiksilver, you will find everything you need to surf here, including a choice of boards and beachwear. Staff can arrange rentals, surf schools and safaris, as well as accommodation.
Montes da Luz, Praia da Luz • www.supermercado-baptista.com
Baptista is known for its fresh regional produce. On Saturdays there are occasional live cooking demonstrations, with tasting sessions later.
Rua de São Vicente, Sagres
Come here for the wide range of top-brand surfwear, boards and accessories. The company also runs a well-established surf school, and rents kayaks and mountain bikes.
A lively gypsy troupe trundles into Aljezur on the first Sunday of every month with an extraordinary array of clothing, household items and foodstuffs at bargain prices.
Avenida dos Descobrimentos, Lagos • Open 8am–2pm Mon–Sat
A bustling fish market with a rooftop terrace restaurant and splendid views across the harbour.
ER268, Sagres
On the main approach road to Sagres, this is the place at which to stock up on food, drink, toiletries and everyday essentials. Clothes, shoes, tools and kitchenware are also for sale. There is also an on-site café.
EN 125, Odiáxere • (282) 798 285 • Closed Wed & Thu • D only • €€
Creamy pepper, garlic or blue-cheese sauce tops the tournedos “fillet” steak at this lively eatery.
52 Rua Francisco Bivar, Mexilhoeira Grande • (282) 968 478 • D only • Closed Oct–Jun: Sun–Thu No credit cards • No veg dishes • €€
A rural gem (see Adega Vila Lisa, Mexilhoeira Grande) with fine traditional cuisine, including succulent pork knee roast.
Rua Cândido Reis, 86, Lagos • (918) 480 071 • D only • Closed mid-Jan–Feb • €
This place is full of character and run by friendly staff. The Mozambique-style beef is incredible. Vegetarian food can be requested in advance.
Hotel Martinhal, Martinhal • (282) 240 200 • D only • No veg dishes • €€€
A family-friendly restaurant, O Terraço serves fresh regional food.
Rua Lançarote de Freitas 46, Lagos • (282) 763 777 • Closed Sun, Mon & last wk in Nov • €€
A charming alfresco restaurant that is popular with foodies.
8670-230 Bordeira Carrapateira • (282) 973 128 • Closed Wed & Dec • No veg dishes • €
Located close to Praia do Amado, this eatery serves fresh fish and seafood in a friendly atmosphere.
Estrada de Lisboa, 266, Monchique • (282) 912 271 • €
Sit on the terrace during fine weather for a wholesome alfresco treat.
Rua Patrão António Faustino, Sagres • (282) 624 788 • Tue–Sun D • Closed Jan & Feb • €€
Oven-baked stuffed quail with Muscatel wine and raisin sauce is just one of the eclectic dishes here.
Estrada do Castelejo, Vila do Bispo • (282) 639 016 • Closed Sun & Mon L • €€
This rural Slow Food member offers a superb Atlantic wild-shrimp cataplana and delicious desserts.
Romantik Hotel Vivenda Miranda, Porto de Mós, Lagos • (282) 763 222 • Closed Nov–Mar • €€
This gourmet restaurant serves fantastic food and offers breathtaking views of the ocean and the coastline.
18.206.83.160