MONTJUÏC
Named the “Jewish Mountain” after an important Jewish cemetery that existed here in the Middle Ages, this sizable park was first landscaped for the 1929 International Exhibition, when the Palau Nacional and the Mies van der Rohe Pavilion were also built. However, the area soon fell into general disuse, becoming synonymous with decline. With the grim shadow left by the castle, which for years acted as a slaughter-house for Franco’s firing squads, it is little short of miraculous that Montjuïc is now one of the city’s biggest draws. As the site for the 1992 Olympics, it was transformed into a beautiful green oasis, with fabulous museums and sports facilities all connected by a network of outdoor escalators and interlaced with quiet, shady gardens.
Statue, Castell de Montjuïc
1. Palau Nacional and Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
The Palau Nacional is home to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, which exhibits Catalonia’s historic art collections. Boasting one of Europe’s finest displays of Romanesque art, the museum includes a series of 12th-century frescoes, rescued from Catalan Pyrenean churches and painstakingly reassembled in a series of galleries.
2. Fundació Joan Miró
One of Catalonia’s most acclaimed painters and sculptors, Joan Miró (1893–1983) donated many of the 11,000 works held by the museum. Housed in a stark white building designed by his friend, architect Josep Lluís Sert, this (see Fundació Joan Miró) is the world’s most complete collection of Miró’s work.
3. Font Màgica
Pl Carles Buigas 1 (off Av Reina Maria Cristina) • Apr, May & Oct: 9pm & 9:30pm Thu–Sat; Jun–Sep: 9:30pm & 10pm Wed–Sun; Nov–Mar: 8pm & 8:30pm Thu–Sat; no shows Jan & Feb
Below the cascades and fountains that decend from the Palau Nacional is the Magic Fountain (see Font Màgica), designed by Carles Buigas for the International Exhibition of 1929. As darkness falls, countless jets of water are choreographed in a mesmerizing sound and light show. When the water meets in a single jet it can soar to 15 m (50 ft). The extravagant finale is often accompanied by a recording of Freddie Mercury and soprano Montserrat Caballé singing the anthem Barcelona as the water fades from pink to green and back to white. The Four Columns behind the fountain represent the Catalan flag and are a symbol of the Catalanism movement.
Font Màgica’s soaring jets of water
4. Castell de Montjuïc
Carretera de Montjuïc 66 • Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm Apr–Oct) • Adm • ajuntament.barcelona.cat/castelldemontjuic/en
Dominating Montjuïc’s hill, this gloomy castle was once a prison and torture centre for political prisoners. At the end of the Spanish Civil War, 4,000 Catalan nationalists and republicans were shot in the nearby Fossar de la Pedrera. After such a tragic history, the castle is entering a happier phase: it has been developed into an international peace centre. Visitors can still climb the fort’s sturdy bastions for superb views of the port below.
Castell de Montjuïc
5. Teatre Grec
Pg Santa Madrona • Open for visits 10am–dusk daily • Free when there are no shows • www.teatrebarcelona.com/teatre-grec
This beautiful amphitheatre (see Teatre Grec) was inspired by the Classical ideas of what was known as Noucentisme. This late 19th-century Catalan architectural movement was a reaction to the overly-decorative nature of Modernisme. With its leafy green backdrop and beautiful gardens, there are few places more enchanting than this to watch Swan Lake or listen to some jazz. The open-air theatre is used for shows during the summertime Grec Festival, when it also becomes home to a luxurious outdoor restaurant.
The atmospheric Teatre Grec
6. Estadi Olímpic
Av de l’Estadi 60 • Museum: open 10am–6pm (to 8pm Apr–Sep) Tue–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun; stadium can be viewed from upper levels • Adm for museum
The stadium was first built for the 1936 Workers’ Olympics, which were cancelled with the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War (see Moments in History). The original Neo-Classical façade is still in place, but the stadium was rebuilt for the 1992 Olympic Games (see 1992–Present Day: The Olympics and Beyond). The interactive Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport nearby is dedicated to all aspects of sport.
7. Pavelló Mies van der Rohe
Av Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 7 • Open 10am–8pm daily • Adm (free for under-16s)
You might wonder exactly what this box-like pavilion of stone, marble, onyx and glass is doing in the middle of Montjuïc’s monumental architecture. Years ahead of its time, this architectural gem was Germany’s contribution to the 1929 International Exhibition. Built by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (1886–1969), the Rationalist pavilion was soon demolished, only to be reconstructed in 1986. Inside, the elegant sculpture Morning by Georg Kolbe (1877–1947) is reflected in a small lake.
8. Palau Sant Jordi
Pg Olímpic 5–7 • Open 10am–6pm (to 8pm May–Sep) Sat & Sun
The biggest star of all the Olympic facilities is this steel-and-glass indoor stadium (closed to the public) and multipurpose installation designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki. Holding around 17,000 people, the stadium is the home of the city’s basketball team. The esplanade – a surreal forest of concrete and metal pillars – was designed by Aiko Isozaki, Arata’s wife. Further down the hill are the indoor and outdoor Bernat Picornell Olympic pools, both of which are open to the public.
Palau Sant Jordi
9. Poble Espanyol
Av Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia • Open 9am–8pm Mon, 9am–midnight Tue–Thu & Sun, 9am–3am Fri, 9am–4pm Sat • Adm
This Spanish poble (village) features a hotchpotch of famous buildings and streets from around Spain recreated in full-scale. Although a bit tacky, Poble Espanyol (see La Terrrazza) has become a centre for arts and crafts, including an impressive glass-blowers’ workshop, and is one of the city’s most popular attractions. There are restaurants and cafés aplenty, as well as a couple of trendy nightclubs.
Traditional alleys of Poble Espanyol
10. CaixaForum
Av Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6–8 • Open 10am–8pm daily (to 11pm on Wed in Jul & Aug) • Adm
The Fundació La Caixa’s impressive collection of contemporary art is housed in a former textile factory built in 1911 by Catalan Modernista architect Puig i Cadafalch. Restored and opened as a gallery in 2002, it assembles some 800 works by Spanish and foreign artists, shown in rotation along with temporary international exhibitions.
A DAY IN MONTJUÏC
MORNING
To get to the Fundació Joan Miró before the crowds and with energy to spare, hop on the funicular from Parallel metro station. It is a short walk from the funicular to the museum, where you’ll need an hour and a half to absorb the impressive collection of Miró paintings, sketches and sculptures. When you’ve had your fill of contemporary art, refuel with a cafè amb llet on the restaurant terrace before backtracking along Av de Miramar and jumping on the cable car up to Castell de Montjuïc. Wander the castle gardens and look out over the city and the bustling docks. Return to Av de Miramar by cable car and follow the signs to the Palau Nacional, where you can lunch on typical Catalan cuisine with a modern twist at the elegant Òleum.
AFTERNOON
After lunch, spend time admiring the extraordinary Romanesque art collection at MNAC. When you exit, turn right and follow the signs to the Olympic complex. The Estadi Olímpic is worth a look, but the silver-domed Palau Sant Jordi steals the limelight. Spend the late afternoon cooling down with a dip in the fantastic open-air pool at nearby Bernat Picornell. From here it is a short stroll to the Poble Espanyol, where you can settle in at a terrace bar in Plaça Major.
Parks and Gardens
1. Jardins Mossèn Costa i Llobera
These are among Europe’s most important cactus and succulent gardens. They are particularly impressive as the sun sets, when surreal shapes and shadows emerge.
2. Jardí Botànic
Open Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm daily; Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm daily • Adm (free first Sun of month, every Sun after 3pm) • www.museuciencies.cat
Barcelona’s botanical gardens are found among the stadiums used in the Olympics of 1992. Dating from 1999, they boast hundreds of examples of typical Mediterranean flora. Don’t miss the charming Jardí Botànic Històric nearby.
3. Jardins Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer
The best time to visit these wonderfully elegant gardens is during spring, when the plants are in blossom and the colours and scents are in full force.
4. Jardins del Castell
Cannons dotted among the rose bushes and pathways along the walls of a flower-filled moat are the highlights of these gardens which ring the castle.
5. Jardins del Teatre Grec
Reminiscent of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, this gracious oasis surrounding the Greek amphitheatre is officially known as La Rosadela.
6. Jardins de Miramar
Opposite the Miramar, these gardens are scattered with stairways leading to enchanting leafy groves with vistas across the city and the port area.
7. Jardins Laribal
This multilevel park hides a small Modernista house by architect Puig i Cadafalch and the Font del Gat, a drinking fountain which has inspired many local songs.
8. Jardins de Joan Maragall
Open 10am–3pm Sat & Sun
An avenue lined with sculptures by Frederic Marès and Ernest Maragall is the main delight in the Jardins de Joan Maragall, which also has the last of the city’s ginjoler trees.
Statue, Jardins de Joan Maragall
9. Jardins de Joan Brossa
These beautiful gardens come into their own in spring, but are popular year-round with kids thanks to the musical instruments, climbing frames and a flying fox.
10. El Mirador del Llobregat
A viewing area with small gardens nearby, this is the only place in the city where you can see the plains of the Llobregat stretching below.
Restaurants, Cafés and Bars
1. Pizza del Sortidor
C/Blasco de Garay 46 • Closed Mon–Fri L • No credit cards • €
A local favourite, this restaurant offers excellent wood-fired pizzas, fast-flowing beer and great barrelled wine.
2. Bar Seco
Pg Montjuïc 74 • 93 329 63 74 • €
A simple café serving cakes, snacks and more substantial dishes at lunch. There’s a summer terrace and Wi-Fi.
3. El Sortidor
Pl del Sortidor 5 • 63 634 26 11 • €
Boasting original stained-glass doors and tiled floors from 1908, El Sortidor serves elegant meals to match the romantic setting.
4. La Tomaquera
C/Margarit 58 • Closed Sun D, Mon, Aug & Easter week • €
A classic neighbourhood restaurant offering delicious Catalan home food at bargain prices. The snails served here are considered the best in town.
5. El Lliure
Pg Santa Madrona 40-46 • Closed Mon–Fri D (except on days with performances) • €
The Lliure theatre has a good-value café with an adjoining restaurant and terrace area. Perfect for enjoying a meal before a show.
6. Òleum
Palau Nacional • 93 289 06 79 • Closed Mon; Tue–Thu & Sun D • €€
Dine on refined Mediterranean cuisine at this elegant venue under the dome of the Palau Nacional, which is home to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, and enjoy the views across the city.
The stylish Òleum restaurant
7. La Federica
C/de Salvà 3 • 93 600 59 01 • Closed Sun & Mon • €
This funky, vintage-style bar serves a fantastic brunch, as well as tasty and imaginative tapas to go with its good range of cocktails.
8. Malamen
C/Blai 53 • 93 252 77 63 • Closed Mon • €
This hipster favourite serves gourmet tapas accompanied by an extensive and carefully chosen wine selection in ultra-stylish surroundings.
9. Studio Miramar
Pl Carlos Ibáñez 3 • 93 281 16 00 • €€
This elegant restaurant in the Hotel Miramar has a great wine list and offers amazing views over the city.
10. Quimet & Quimet
C/Poeta Cabanyes 25 • 93 442 31 42 • Closed Sat D, Sun & Aug • €
This tiny bodega has standing room only, but serves delicious tapas and wonderful wines.