GRÀCIA, TIBIDABO AND ZONA ALTA

The hilly Zona Alta covers several neighbourhoods, from the moneyed Pedralbes and Tibidabo to bohemian Gràcia. The area offers stunning views and regal attractions, but what sets it apart are its 15 parks – the best are Collserola, spread like green baize over Tibidabo mountain, and Gaudí’s Parc Güell. Cosmopolitan Gràcia’s political tradition and gypsy community have long drawn artists and writers to its labyrinthine streets, and its squares are now home to lively bars and stores.

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1. Monestir de Pedralbes

prac_info C/Baixada del Monestir 9 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Fri (to 7pm Sat, to 8pm Sun); Oct–Mar: 10am–2pm Tue–Fri (to 5pm Sat & Sun) • Adm; free first Sun of the month, every Sun 3–8pm) • monestirpedralbes.bcn.cat

Named after the Latin petras albas, which means “white stones”, this outstandingly beautiful Gothic monastery (see Capella de Sant Miquel and Església al Monestir de Pedralbes) was founded by Queen Elisenda de Montcada de Piños in 1327 with the support of her husband James II of Aragón. Her alabaster tomb lies in the wall between the church and the impressive three-storey Gothic cloister. The furnished kitchens, cells, infirmary and refectory, which are all well preserved, provide an interesting glimpse into medieval life.

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Monestir de Pedralbes

2. Parc d’Atraccions del Tibidabo

prac_info Pl de Tibidabo • Opening times vary, check website • Adm • www.tibidabo.cat

Take the funicular up to the top of Tibidabo’s 517-m (1,695-ft) mountain to visit this traditional amusement park, which opened in 1908 (see Parc d’Atraccions del Tibidabo). There are a couple of white-knuckle rides, but the real attractions are the old-fashioned ones, including a beautifully-preserved carousel and a Ferris wheel. There’s also the Museu dels Autòmates, with automatons, mechanical models and a scale model of the park.

3. Torre de Collserola

prac_info Parc de Collserola • Opening times vary, check website • Adm • www.torredecollserola.com

This slender telecommunications tower was designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster. The needle-like upper structure rests on a concrete pillar, anchored by 12 huge steel cables. Rising to a height of 288 m (945 ft), the top is reached by a glass-fronted lift. On a clear day, you can see Montserrat and the Pyrenees.

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Torre de Collserola

4. Camp Nou Experience

prac_info Entrance 9 Stadium, Av Arístides Maillol • Opening times vary, check website; advance booking recommended • Adm • www.fcbarcelona.com/camp-nou

The Museu del FC Barcelona, Barcelona’s most visited museum, is a must for fans of the beautiful game. Numerous displays of football memorabilia show all you need to know about the club. Work donated by some of Catalonia’s leading artists is also on display. Admission includes access to Barca’s 120,000-seater stadium, Camp Nou, an impressive monument to the city’s love affair with the game.

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Camp Nou, FC Barcelona’s home stadium

5. CosmoCaixa Museu de la Ciència

prac_info C/Isaac Newton 26 • 93 212 60 50 • Open 10am–8pm daily • Adm (free under 16)

Barcelona’s science museum is a thoroughly stimulating and interactive affair. It occupies a glass-and-steel building, with six of its nine storeys set underground. Displays include a wide range of historic objects, flora and fauna. One of its most important pieces is a recreated section of flooded Amazon rainforest, including fish, reptiles, mammals, birds and plants. A tour through Earth’s geological history explains processes such as erosion and sedimentation. There are also innovative temporary exhibitions on environmental issues (see CosmoCaixa Museu de la Ciència).

6. Parc Güell

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this heady brew of architectural wizardry (see Parc Güell) includes trencadís tiling, fairy-tale pavilions, Gothic archways and the columned Sala Hipóstila (originally designed as a market hall). In true Gaudí style, playfulness and symbolism pervade every aspect of the park. The Casa-Museu Gaudí, where Gaudí lived for 20 years, is dedicated to his life.

7. Parc del Laberint d’Horta

prac_info C/German Desvalls • Open 10am–dusk daily • Adm; free Wed, Sun

In 1802, the Marquès d’Alfarràs hosted a huge party in these wonderful Neo-Classical gardens to celebrate the visit of Charles IV. Designed by the Italian architect Domenico Bagutti, they incorporate pavilions, a lake, a waterfall, canals and a cypress-tree hedge maze. Note that the gardens are closed in November.

8. Parc de Collserola

prac_info Info point: C/Església 92 • 93 280 35 52 • www.parcnaturalcollserola.cat

Beyond the peaks of Tibidabo mountain, this 6,500-ha (16,000-acre) natural park of wild forest and winding paths is an oasis of calm. It is great for hiking and biking, with signposted paths and nature trails.

9. Casa Vicens

prac_info Carrer de les Carolines 20 • Open 10am-8pm daily (last entry 1 hr before closing) Adm

Gaudí’s first major commission, this former private home is situated on a quiet residential street. It was once surrounded by orchards and fields, a fact the architect has referenced on the façade; a patchwork of tiles decorated with marigolds. Inside, rooms are replete with florid marquetry, arabesque detailing and nature-inspired ambiances.

10. Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor

Visible from almost anywhere in the city, the Neo-Gothic Temple of the Sacred Heart (see Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor) was built by Enric Sagnier between 1902 and 1911. It has a dramatic sculpture of Jesus on top, and an elaborately decorated door. Take the elevator up the main tower, or climb the steps to the outside terrace for breathtaking views.

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Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor

GRÀCIA

Until the late 19th century, Gràcia was a fiercely proud independent city. Despite locals’ protests, it became part of Barcelona proper in 1898, but has always maintained a sense of separatism and has been a hotbed of political activity. It is now home to a booming cottage industry nurtured by a growing band of artisans. Don’t miss the barri’s annual fiesta (see Festa Major de Gràcia) in the second week of August.

EXPLORING THE HEIGHTS

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MORNING

Taking the northern route of the Bus Turístic is the easiest way to negotiate the vast northern area of Barcelona; it also gives discounts on entrance to major sights en route. Start off at Plaça de Catalunya – tickets can be bought on board – and sit on the top deck for a good view of the Modernista magic along Pg de Gràcia. Make the whimsi-cal Parc Güell your first stop and spend the morning ambling around Gaudí’s otherworldly park. Get back on the bus and continue north to the southern end of Av Tibidabo. Walk about 500 m (1,600 ft) up Av Tibidabo and stop off for a leisurely lunch in the garden of the palatial El Asador d’Aranda.

AFTERNOON

After you’ve had your fill of fine Castilian cuisine, stroll up Av Tibidabo to Plaça Doctor Andreu, where you can hop on the funicular train to go higher still to Plaça de Tibidabo. Pop into the Parc d’Atraccions for a ride on the dodgems or the Ferris wheel. Then head to the landmark Torre de Collserola, where a glass elevator whisks you up to an observation deck for spectacular views. Return to Pl Doctor Andreu on the funicular and treat yourself to a granissat in one of the terrace bars. Catch the number 196 bus down the Av Tibidabo, then take Bus Turístic back to the city centre.

Gràcia Boutiques

1. Boo

prac_info C/Bonavista 2

This elegantly decorated space offers contemporary clothing and accessories with a slightly vintage feel for men and women. Shoppers will find international labels like Saint James, Norse Projects and beautifully tailored shirts by Tuk Tuk. There’s also a small selection of books and perfumes.

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Contemporary fashion at Boo

2. Lydia Delgado

prac_info C/Séneca 28

This well-established Catalan designer creates superbly cut clothing for women inspired by the 1950s and 1960s. Touches of embroidery, patchwork and other artistic details enliven the fabrics.

3. José Rivero

prac_info C/Astúries 43

José provides his own original in-house creations for men and women; he also sells accessories, including handbags, crafted by young local designers.

4. Berta Sumpsi

prac_info C/Verdi 98

This little space doubles as a workshop and showroom. There is an unusual range of simple as well as sculptural jewellery displayed in beautiful, minimal surroundings.

5. Érase Una Vez

prac_info C/Goya 7

The name of the store means “once upon a time”, and indeed many a storybook fantasy comes true at this lovely shop, which creates fabulous, one-of-a-kind wedding gowns. It also stocks some of the most exclusive designers.

6. Món de Mones

prac_info C/Xiquets de Valls 9

For a range of striking jewellery and accessories, visit this charming little shop near the Plaça del Sol. Designer Teresa Roig uses a variety of materials, from glass to felt, to create her original designs.

7. Rock 01 Baby

prac_info C/Bonavista 16

Dress your baby in the latest fashions from this little shop, which has funky slogan T-shirts, Babygros and mini Ugg boots for the pint-sized hipster.

8. Mushi Mushi

prac_info C/Bonavista 12

From hard-to-find small labels to the best international collections, Mushi Mushi stocks a fine selection of women’s fashion. There is also a small range of bags, shoes and other accessories.

9. El Piano

prac_info C/Verdi 20 bis

El Piano sells elegant and stylish womenswear with a retro flair made by Catalan designer Tina García. It also stocks clothes by other independent designers.

10. Botó and Co

prac_info C/Bonavista 3

This is the third and newest of the Botó and Co boutiques in Barcelona, selling high-quality fashion for women, including Current/Elliot jeans, Humanoid sweaters, and Sigerson Morrison footwear.

Gràcia Cafés

1. Cafè del Sol

prac_info Pl del Sol 16 • DA

This café-bar is a cut above the others in the lively, bohemian Plaça del Sol. The atmosphere buzzes, the conversation inspires and the excellent coffee keeps on coming.

2. Cafè Salambó

prac_info C/Torrijos 51 • DA

Scrumptious sandwiches and a tasty range of salads are the draw at this beautiful bar-cum-café. There are pool tables upstairs.

3. Bar Quimet

prac_info C/Vic 23

An authentic, old-fashioned bar with marble-topped tables and big wooden barrels, this is a great spot for an aperitif. Try the vermut (vermouth) and a selection of olives and boquerones (fresh anchovies).

4. La Cafetera

prac_info Pl de la Virreina 2

Of all the cafés on Plaça de la Virreina, this one, with its outdoor terrace and tiny patio full of potted plants, is perhaps the nicest for a quiet and leisurely morning coffee and a sandwich or pastry.

5. Suís

prac_info Travessera de Gràcia 151 • DA

A colourful café that sells great ice creams and fresh fruit juices in summer, plus hot chocolate (which, with added whipped cream, is known as a suís) and a wide range of teas in winter. There are cakes and brownies too.

6. Mama’s Café

prac_info C/Torrijos 26 • Closed Tue

A pretty minimalist café with a small patio at the back. Organic sandwiches, salads and home-made cakes are served all day, as well as fresh fruit juices and cocktails.

7. Onna Coffee

prac_info C/Santa Teresa 1

This tiny coffee bar attracts the hipster set of Grácia with its house-roasted coffee beans. You will also find a range of tasty home-made cakes and healthy sandwiches to choose from.

8. Cafè del Teatre

prac_info C/Torrijos 41

This is a great place to find a young, friendly crowd and good conversa tion. The only connection with the theatre, however, seems to be the velvet curtains on the sign over the door of this scruffy yet popular café.

9. La Nena

prac_info C/Ramón y Cajal 36

This café is popular with parents of young children, thanks to the room with tables and games for children. Their range of home-made cakes, juices and hot drinks make this a neighbourhood favourite.

10. Le Standard

prac_info C/Topazi 24 • Open 6pm–2:30am Tue–Sun

Like a granny’s retro living room with leather sofas and floral wallpaper, Le Standard is the perfect spot to relax and enjoy a drink. They also organize cultural activities and exhibitions. Free Wi-Fi.

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Retro interior of Le Standard

Hip Drinking Spots

1. Bobby Gin

prac_info C/Francisco Giner 47

This cocktail bar stocks some 60 premium gins – floral, citric, spiced and vintage. Their slogan, “Respect the gin”, comes courtesy of the eponymous bartender.

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The bar area at Bobby Gin

2. Universal

prac_info C/Marià Cubí 182 • Closed Mon–Thu • Occasional adm

Open until 5:30am, Universal is a two-level bar with a spacious, airy interior. The image-conscious crowd goes to flirt and dance to house (upstairs) and acid jazz.

3. Mirablau

prac_info Pl Dr Andreu • Open from 11am daily (from 10am Fri)

A slightly older, well-heeled set who adhere to the smart dress code come to this club-bar for a combination of cocktails and amazing views of the city.

4. Gimlet

prac_info C/Santaló 46 • Open from 6pm Mon–Sat

Opened in 1982 by Javier de las Muelas, a well-known name on the international cocktail scene, Gimlet is a classic bar with contemporary flair, where you can enjoy premium drinks in elegant surroundings.

5. Luz de Gas

prac_info C/Muntaner 246 • Open Wed–Sat

A major player since the mid-1990s, this club has occasional live Latin music until around midnight. After that it turns into a popular disco, attracting a slightly older crowd.

6. Velcro Bar

prac_info C/Vallfogona 10

A tiny bar with a retro-style elegant interior, serving some excellent cocktails. It’s a great place to start a night out, as it can get crowded in the later hours.

7. Otto Zutz

prac_info C/Lincoln 15 • Closed Sun–Tue • Adm

Barcelona’s media crowd flock to this New-York-style club (see Otto Zutz) to chatter in the corners upstairs and shoot pool downstairs. The huge dance floors throb with house music.

8. La Cervesera Artesana

prac_info C/Sant Agustí 14 • Open from 5pm daily

This friendly microbrewery serves a good range of imported beers in addition to their own excellent brews. The Iberian Pale Ale, a mellow amber beer, is well worth a try.

9. Ajoblanco

prac_info C/ Tuset 20 • Open from 8am daily

Mediterranean dishes and tapas are served here in the evening; then, at around midnight, a DJ sets up in the bar and a fashionable crowd rolls in to dance to classic tunes and enjoy gigantic gin and tonics.

10. Bikini

prac_info Av Diagonal 547 • Closed Sun–Wed • Adm

Open from midnight, this huge venue has three spaces, offering dance and Latin music and a cocktail lounge. Regular live music includes some of the best acts in Europe.

Restaurants and Tapas Bars

1. El Asador d’Aranda

prac_info Av Tibidabo 31 • 93 417 01 15 • Closed Sun D (except Jun–Oct) • €€

Set in the magnificent Modernista Casa Roviralta, this restaurant (see El Asador d’Aranda) is a magnet for businesspeople. Order the delicious lamb roasted in an oak-burning oven and dine in the beautiful garden.

2. Hofmann

prac_info C/La Granada del Penedès 14–16 • 93 218 71 65 • Closed Sat L, Sun, Easter Week, Aug, Christmas • €€€

Run by talented chef Mey Hofmann, this Michelin-starred place serves exceptional Catalan cuisine. Save room for the exceptional desserts.

3. Abissínia

prac_info C/Torrent de les Flors 55 • 93 213 07 85 • Closed Tue • €

Traditional Ethiopian stews are served with injera bread here. This is a good restaurant for vegetarians.

4. Il Giardinetto

prac_info C/La Granada del Penedès 28 • 93 218 75 36 • Closed Sat L, Sun • €€

This eatery features whimsical, garden-themed decor and serves classic Mediterranean dishes with a twist such as spaghetti alla Sofia Loren (pasta served with anchovy and parsley sauce).

5. Fragments Café

prac_info Pl de la Concòrdia 12 • 93 419 96 13 • Closed Mon • €

Plaça de la Concòrdia, in the Les Corts neighbourhood, retains a small-town appeal. This sweet little café serves gourmet tapas out on the terrace or in its cozy interior.

6. Bonanova

prac_info C/Sant Gervasi de Cassoles 103 • 93 417 10 33 • Closed Sun D, Mon • €€

Away from the tourist routes, Bonanova has been serving fresh, seasonal fare cooked in a simple and traditional way since 1964.

7. La Balsa

prac_info C/Infanta Isabel 4 • 93 211 50 48 • Closed Sun dinner, Mon, Easter, L in Aug • €€

With two garden terraces, La Balsa is a beautiful spot in the quiet Bonanova area, serving fine Basque, Catalan and Mediterranean dishes.

8. El Vell Sarrià

prac_info C/Major de Sarrià 93 • 93 204 57 10 • Closed Sun dinner, Mon • €€

Housed in a handsome old town house, this is the best place in the area for paellas, local rice dishes and grilled seafood.

9. Botafumeiro

prac_info C/Gran de Gràcia 81 • 93 218 42 30 (book ahead) • €€€

The fish tanks at this seafood place teem with crabs and lobsters destined for dinner plates. Try the pulpo Gallego (Galician octopus).

10. Acontraluz

prac_info C/Milanesat 19 • 93 203 06 58 • Closed Sun D • €€

This restaurant, in a quiet part of town, has a charming terrace and a retractable roof for alfresco dining. The modern Catalan menu includes a range of tapas.

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Acontraluz restaurant

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