POTSDAM AND SANSSOUCI
Potsdam is an important part of European cultural history – a splendid centre of the Enlightenment, which reached its climax in the 18th century in the architectural and artistic design of Frederick the Great’s palace of Sanssouci. The palace complex, with its beautiful, extensive park, is both magnificent and playful. It has been designated a World Heritage Centre of Culture by UNESCO and enchants millions of visitors every year. The town of Potsdam, numbering more than 150,000 inhabitants, is the capital of the federal province of Brandenburg. This former garrison town has much to delight visitors, including small palaces and old churches, idyllic parks and historic immigrant settlements.
1. Museum Barberini
Alter Markt, Humboldtstr. 5-6 • (0331) 23 60 14 499 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun • www.museum-barberini.com
This private art museum, once Palace Barberini, was built in 1771–72 by Frederick the Great. Destroyed during the war, it was reconstructed by Hasso Plattner, and opened to the public in 2017. The rooms house 250 paintings and sculptures from Mr. Plattner’s collection and others on loan.
2. Neues Palais
Am Neuen Palais • (0331) 969 42 00 • Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (Nov–Mar: until 5pm) • Visitor centre is at the south gate; audio guide available • Adm • www.spsg.de
One of Germany’s most beautiful palaces, the Baroque Neues Palais was built in 1763–9 for Frederick the Great by Johann Gottfried Büring, Jean Laurent Le Geay and Carl von Gontard. The vast structure has 200 rooms, including the Marmorsaal (marble hall), a lavish ballroom, and the Schlosstheater, where plays are once more performed today. Frederick’s private chambers are equally splendid, especially his Rococo study, the upper gallery with valuable parquet flooring and the Oberes Vestibül, a room clad in marble.
The beautiful Baroque Neues Palais
3. Schloss Sanssouci
Maulbeerallee • (0331) 969 42 00 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; guided tour obligatory • Adm • www.spsg.de
Frederick the Great wished to live “sans souci” (“without worries”) in a palace outside the city. In 1745, he commissioned architect Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff to construct this Rococo palace using his own designs. The structure rises above the former terraced vineyards, leading up to the domed building and its marble hall at the centre of the complex. The hall pays homage to Rome’s Pantheon. To its left and right are rooms designed by Johann August Nahl and von Knobelsdorff; these include the concert room and the king’s library. Here, the monarch liked to play the flute or to philosophize with Voltaire. Works by Antoine Watteau, adorn the palace walls.
4. Schloss Charlottenhof
Geschwister-Scholl-Str. 34a • (0331) 969 42 28 • Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • www.spsg.de
A small Neo-Classical palace in Park Sanssouci, the Schloss Charlottenhof was built in 1829 by Schinkel for the heir to the throne, Friedrich Wilhelm IV. Particularly worth seeing here is the tent-like Humboldtsaal.
5. Schlosspark Sanssouci
Chinesisches Haus: Am Grünen Gitter; (0331) 969 42 25; open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Römische Bäder: Lennéstr.; (0331) 969 42 25; open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Orangerie: An der Orangerie 3–5; (0331) 969 42 22; open Apr: 10am–6pm Sat & Sun, May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • www.spsg.de
It is easy to spend a day in a park as large as this one. Among the many charming buildings hidden in the landscaped garden is the Rococo-style Chinesisches Haus, built in 1754–6 by Johann Gottfried Büring. It originally served as a teahouse and dining room, and now houses an exhibition of East Asian porcelain. The Römische Bäder (Roman Baths) are lakeside pavilions modelled on an Italian Renaissance villa. They were built as bath- and guesthouses between 1829 and 1840 by Schinkel. The Orangerie, built in 1851–60 by Stüler, was also originally intended for the king’s guests. Today it houses a small gallery of paintings.
6. Schloss Cecilienhof
Im Neuen Garten • (0331) 969 42 00 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • www.spsg.de
The 1945 Potsdam Conference was held in this palace, built in 1914–17 in the style of an English country house. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and hotel, it houses a small exhibition.
7. Holländisches Viertel
Friedrich-Ebert-, Kurfürsten-, Hebbel-, Gutenbergstr.
A pleasant way to explore Potsdam is a walk through the historic Old Town. Built between 1733 and 1742, the area originally served as a settlement for Dutch workers after whom it is now named.
House in the Holländisches Viertel
8. Marmorpalais
Heiliger See (Neuer Garten) • (0331) 969 45 50 • Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun • www.spsg.de
This small, early Neo-Classical palace by the Heiliger See was built in 1791–7 by architect Carl Gotthard Langhans and others. It features an elegant concert hall as well as contemporary furniture and porcelain.
Marmorpalais
9. Marstall (Filmmuseum)
Breite Str. 1a • (0331) 271 81 12 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • www.filmmuseum-potsdam.de
Set in the Baroque former stable buildings of the king’s town residence, this small museum uses old cameras, props and projectors to document the history of German film.
10. Nikolaikirche
Am Alten Markt • (0331) 270 86 02 • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 11:30am–5pm Sun
Potsdam’s most attractive church, Nikolaikirche was designed by Schinkel in 1830 in a Neo-Classical style. Its giant dome is particularly striking, and you can ascend it for a breathtaking view over the Stadtschloss which is now home to the parliament of Brandenburg.
The Neo-Classical Nikolaikirche
THE POTSDAM CONFERENCE
In July and August 1945, the heads of the governments of the United States (Harry Truman), the USSR (Joseph Stalin) and Great Britain (Winston Churchill) met in Schloss Cecilienhof in order to seal the future of Germany through a treaty. Vitally important points such as the level of reparations to be paid by Germany, the demilitarization of the country, its new borders, the punishment of war criminals, and the resettlement of Germans from Poland were decided here.
A DAY IN POTSDAM
MORNING
Begin your exploration in the Schlosspark Sanssouci as early as possible in order to get ahead of the daily influx of visitors. Start with Schloss Sanssouci and Neues Palais then visit the Chinesisches Haus, Römische Bäder and Orangerie. From the orangery’s viewing terrace you will have magnificent views over the entire palace complex. If you are up for it, you could also climb up to Schloss Belvedere on top of the hill. From Schlosspark walk along Voltaireweg to Neuer Garten in the northeast of Potsdam, where you can recover over a tasty lunch at Schloss Cecilienhof.
AFTERNOON
Start the afternoon looking around Schloss Cecilienhof and stroll through Neuer Garten. Stop for a break at Heiliger See, then head to the centre of Potsdam, starting with the Holländisches Viertel (Dutch quarter) where you could pop into one of the numerous cafés. Stroll past the St Peter-und-Paul Kirche, the Französische Kirche, the Nikolaikirche and the Altes Rathaus to the Marstall film museum and Museum Barberini. If you have time, extend your tour by driving to nearby Babelsberg. You could either visit the Filmpark (see The Best of the Rest), admire Schloss Babelsberg or walk up Telegrafenberg. Round off your day with a delicious evening meal at Pino in Potsdam.
The Best of the Rest
1. Alexandrowka
Russische Kolonie/Puschkinallee
The Russian colony feels like a village in Tsarist Russia. Decorated log cabins with picturesque gardens were built here in 1826 for a Russian military choir. Don’t miss the museum and the Alexander Newski church.
2. Dampfmaschinenhaus Sanssouci
Breite Str. 28 • (0331) 969 42 25 • Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Sat & Sun • www.spsg.de
This building, resembling a mosque with minarets, is the water pumping station for Sanssouci. The 1842 pump can be seen inside.
3. Telegrafenberg
Albert-Einstein-Str. • Einsteinturm tours Oct–Mar: (0331) 29 17 41 • Adm
The elegant Einstein tower on top of Telegraph Hill was designed by Erich Mendelssohn in 1920 to see the sun.
4. Schloss Babelsberg
Park Babelsberg • Closed for renovation until 2020 • www.spsg.de
Built by Schinkel in 1833–5 as a summer residence for royalty, this Neo-Gothic palace sits in an idyllic park on the banks of the Havel River.
The Neo-Gothic Schloss Babelsberg
5. Potsdamer Stadtschloss
Neuer Markt
The Hohenzollern palace, once the residence of Frederick the Great, was badly bombed in World War II and had to be demolished in 1960. It is the cultural centre and the seat of the Potsdam legislative assembly.
6. Altes Rathaus
Am Alten Markt
The old town hall, built in 1753, is decorated with sculptures and Potsdam’s coat of arms – two gilded Atlas figures, each carrying a globe on its back. Today, it is home to the city’s museum.
Altes Rathaus
7. Filmpark Babelsberg
Großbeerenstr. 200, Potsdam • Open late Mar–early Nov: 10am–6pm daily; check website for park closing days • Adm • www.filmpark-babelsberg.de
The Filmpark offers visitors a tour of the legendary UFA-Studios, complete with U-boat trips and stunt performances.
8. Französische Kirche
Am Bassinplatz • (0331) 29 12 19 • Open late Mar–mid-Oct: 1:30–5pm Tue–Sun
In 1752, Johann Boumann built this elliptical Huguenot church with its columned portico; Schinkel designed the beautiful interior in the 1830s.
9. St-Peter-und-Paul-Kirche
Am Bassinplatz • (0331) 230 79 90 • Open 10am–6pm daily (winter: until 5pm)
Based on Haghia Sophia in Istanbul, the Catholic church of St Peter and St Paul was built in 1867–70 by Stüler.
10. Brandenburger Tor
Luisenplatz
The most attractive of five former town gates was built by Gontard and Unger in 1770 to celebrate Prussian victory in the Seven Years’ War.
Restaurants
1. Speckers Landhaus
Jägerallee 13 • (0331) 280 43 11 • Open noon–2pm & 6–11pm Tue–Sat • €€
The Prussian interior, friendly service and light cuisine combine to make this one of Potsdam’s best restaurants.
2. Schloss Cecilienhof
Neuer Garten • (0331) 370 52 33 • Open noon–11pm daily • €€
The palace is now a luxury hotel. Its restaurant serves solid German fare.
3. Pino
Weinbergstr. 7 • (0331) 270 30 30 • Open 6pm–midnight Mon–Sat • €€
Close to Park Sanssouci, Pino serves a daily changing menu of exquisite Sicilian fare. The wine list reads like a Who’s Who of Italian vintages.
4. Restaurant Juliette
Jägerstr. 39 • (0331) 270 17 91 • Open noon–3:30pm & 6pm–midnight Wed–Mon • Closed Jul • €€
A former manor house is the setting for this French restaurant, one of the most charming in Potsdam. It serves top-quality French classics.
5. Krongut Bornstedt
Ribbeckstr. 6–7 • (0331) 550 65 48 • Open 11am–10pm daily • €€
Set in the brewery of a historic country manor, rustic Krongut Bornstedt, serves hearty meals with local fish, game, sausages and home-brewed beers.
6. Maison Charlotte
Mittelstr. 20 • (0331) 280 54 50 • Open noon–11pm daily • €€
An old-world wine bar in a red-brick Dutch house with outdoor seating in a pleasant courtyard, Maison Charlotte serves French country fare and fine wines.
7. Friedrich Wilhelm
Im Wildpark 1 • (0331) 550 50 • Open 6–10pm Tue–Sat • €€€
This Michelin-starred restaurant in Hotel Bayrisches Haus offers light German dishes, exquisitely prepared by Alexander Dressel. In summer, eat on a terrace overlooking a wildflower meadow.
8. Waage
Am Neuen Markt 12 • (0331) 817 06 74 • Open noon–midnight Tue–Sun • €€
The regional meat and fish dishes at this attractive historic restaurant in central Potsdam are particularly worth trying.
9. Café Heider
Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 29 • (0331) 270 55 96 • Open 8am–1am Mon–Fri, 9am–1am Sat, 10am–1am Sun • €
This lovely café in the middle of Potsdam’s Old Town offers a fantastic breakfast, which you can enjoy outside on the terrace in summer. A vintage Ford can be hired.
Café Heider’s vintage car shuttle
10. La Madeleine
Lindenstr. 9 • (0331) 270 54 00 • Open noon–midnight daily • No credit cards • €
A little bistro serving all sorts of crêpes, such as sweet with jam or savoury with ham – the ideal spot for a quick snack.