KENMORE AND THE FENWAY

On days when the Red Sox are playing a home baseball game at Fenway Park, Kenmore Square is packed with fans. By night, Kenmore becomes the jump-off point for a night of dancing, drinking, and socializing at clubs on or near Lansdowne Street. Yet for all of Kenmore’s genial rowdiness, it is also the gateway into the sedate parkland of the Back Bay Fens and the stately late 19th- and early 20th-century buildings along the Fenway. The Fenway neighborhood extends all the way southeast to Huntington Avenue, aka the “Avenue of the Arts,” which links key cultural centers such as Symphony Hall, Huntington Theatre, the Museum of Fine Arts, Massachusetts College of Art and Design, and the delightful and not-to-be-missed Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum along a tree-lined boulevard.

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1. Museum of Fine Arts

One of the most largest fine arts museums in the country, the MFA is especially renowned for its collections of French Impressionism and of ancient Egyptian and Nubian art and artifacts. Its Asian art holdings are said to be the largest in the United States (see Museum of Fine Arts, Boston).

2. Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

This Fenway museum, in a faux Venetian palace, represents the exquisite personal tastes of its founder, Isabella Stewart Gardner, who was one of the country’s premier art collectors at the end of the 19th century (see Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum).

3. Fenway Park

prac_info 4 Jersey St • 617 267 1700 for tickets, 617 226 6666 for tours • Tours year-round: 9am–5pm daily (from 10am in winter; last tour 3 hours before game time) • Adm • www.redsox.com

Built in 1912, the home field of the Boston Red Sox is the oldest surviving park in major league baseball, and aficionados insist that it’s also the finest. An odd-shaped parcel of land gives the park quirky features, such as the high, green-painted wall in left field, affectionately known as “the Green Monster.” Although previous owners threatened to abandon Fenway, the current ones have enlarged the park to accommodate more loyal Sox fans. Behind-the-scenes tours include areas normally closed to the public, like the dugouts and private boxes.

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Fenway Park baseball park

4. Symphony Hall

prac_info 301 Massachusetts Ave • 617 266 1492 • www.bso.org

The restrained, elegant Italian Renaissance exterior of this 1900 concert hall barely hints at what is considered to be the acoustic perfection of the interior hall. Home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, the hall’s 2,300-plus seats are usually sold out for their classical concerts, as well as for the lighter Boston Pops (see Symphony Hall).

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Performance at Symphony Hall

5. Back Bay Fens

prac_info Bounded by Park Dr & The Fenway

This lush ribbon of grassland, marshes, and stream banks follows Muddy River and forms one link in the Emerald Necklace of parks (see Founders’ Memorial). The enclosed James P. Kelleher Rose Garden in the center of the Fens offers a perfect spot for quiet contemplation. A path runs from Kenmore Square to the museums and galleries on Huntington Avenue, which makes a pleasant shortcut through the Fens. Best by daylight.

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Entrance to the Back Bay Fens

6. Jordan Hall

This concert hall at the New England Conservatory of Music opened in 1903 and underwent an $8.2 million restoration in 1995. Musicians often praise its acoustics, heralding Jordan as “the Stradivarius of concert halls.” Hundreds of free classical concerts are performed at this National Historic Landmark hall every year (see Jordan Hall).

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Magnificent interior of Jordan Hall

7. Boston University

prac_info • Howard Gotlieb Archival Research Center; 771 Commonwealth Ave; 617 353 3696; exhibit rooms open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri; adm • Boston Playwrights’ Theatre; 949 Commonwealth Ave; 866 811 4111; season runs Oct–Apr • www.bu.edu

Founded as a Methodist Seminary in 1839, Boston University was chartered as a university in 1869. Today it enrolls approximately 30,000 students from all 50 states and some 125 countries. The scattered colleges and schools were consolidated at the Charles River Campus in 1966. Both sides of Commonwealth Avenue are lined with distinctive university buildings and sculptures. The Howard Gotlieb Archival Research Center is big on the memorabilia of show business figures, displayed on a rotating basis. Artifacts include Gene Kelly’s Oscar and a number of Bette Davis’s film scripts. It also exhibits selections from its holdings of rare manuscripts and books. The Boston Playwrights’ Theatre was founded by the late Nobel Laureate Derek Walcott in 1981 to help develop new plays. A season highlight is the day-long Boston Theater Marathon of 50 ten-minute plays.

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A play at Boston Playwrights’ Theatre

8. Warren Anatomical Museum

prac_info 10 Shattuck St • 617 432 6196 • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri

Established in 1847 from the private holdings of Dr. John Collins Warren, this museum contains the former anatomical teaching collections of the Harvard Medical School, including clinical examples of rare deformities and diseases. Among the excellent displays are several delicate and poignant skeletons of stillborn conjoined twins. The unusual collections are still used for medical education.

9. Massachusetts College of Art and Design Galleries

prac_info 621 Huntington Ave • 617 879 7337 • Closed for renovation until 2020 • www.massart.edu

The Paine and Bakalar galleries in the South Building of the Massachusetts College of Art and Design mount some of Boston’s most dynamic exhibitions of contemporary visual art. It is the only independent state-supported art college in the US and exhibitions tend to emphasize avant-garde experimentation as well as social commentary and documentary.

10. Kenmore Square

Largely dominated by Boston University, Kenmore Square is now being transformed from a student ghetto into an extension of upmarket Back Bay, losing some of its funky character but gaining élan in the process. As the public transportation gateway to Fenway Park, the square swarms with baseball fans and sidewalk vendors, rather than students, on game days. The most prominent landmark of the square is the CITGO sign, its more than 9,000 ft (2,743 m) of LEDs pulsing red, white, and blue from dusk until midnight. Time magazine designated this sign an “objet d’heart” because it was so beloved by Bostonians that they prevented its dismantling in 1983.

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Kenmore Square, with its CITGO sign

A DAY OF THE ARTS

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MORNING AND AFTERNOON

Take the green line “T” (B train) to Boston University Central and make your way to the Howard Gotlieb Archival Research Center, part of Boston University, for a glimpse of show business ephemera, including Fred Astaire’s dance shoes. Then head west toward Kenmore Square to explore the stores, including the encyclopedic Boston University Bookstore (660 Beacon St), directly under the CITGO sign. Stroll along Brookline Avenue to Fenway Park for a tour of the stadium and then take Jersey Street to the Back Bay Fens, where you can rest beneath the wings of the angel on the Veteran’s Memorial. Continue to the Museum of Fine Arts to view the outstanding art collections – from ancient Egyptian artifacts to contemporary installations. Afterward, follow the Fenway three blocks left to continue your immersion in art at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. Take a break in the “living room” of the museum’s Renzo Piano-designed wing, then grab a bite to eat at the classy Café G.

EVENING

You can pack in a full evening of entertainment by taking in a recital at Jordan Hall. When the final applause has died down, make your way to Lucky Strike Social and round off the night with billiards, bowling, and video games. You may want to continue into the early hours.

Nightclubs and Bars

1. Loretta’s Last Call

prac_info 1 Lansdowne St

Country music and Southern food fuel this happening bar and dance club. The interior has a cozy, vintage ambience.

2. Bleacher Bar

prac_info 82A Lansdowne St

This tiny bar, tucked in the back of Fenway Park, has several seats offering direct views into the venue. Inviting pub fare and a well-stocked bar keep customers occupied.

3. Audubon Boston

prac_info 836 Beacon St

Close enough to Fenway Park to drop by after the game, Audubon Boston is a relaxed neighborhood bar and grill with good food, beer, and a thoughtful wine list.

4. Cask ‘n Flagon

prac_info 62 Brookline Ave • Closed Sun

At Fenway’s premier sports bar, fans hoist a cold one and debate the merits of the Sox manager’s latest tactics.

5. Hawthorne

prac_info Hotel Commonwealth, 500 Commonwealth Ave

Cocktails and champagnes star in this upscale lounge for Kenmore Square adults who would rather converse than yell.

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Elegant Hawthorne lounge-bar

6. Game On!

prac_info 82 Lansdowne St

Wall-to-wall TVs are tuned to every game that’s on anywhere in the country at this bar in a corner of Fenway Park. A prime spot for sports fans to eat, drink, and cheer.

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Game On! sports bar

7. Lower Depths Tap Room

prac_info 476 Commonwealth Ave

This underground bar in Kenmore Square features tater tots and beer cheese dip on the menu, plus an extensive list of local craft brews. There are good options for retro drinkers, such as the Genesse Cream Ale. The bar accepts cash only.

8. Cornwall’s Pub

prac_info 654 Beacon St

Offering the very best of both worlds, Cornwall’s is a British-style pub with a wide range of good beers, ales, and food, but the bartenders also understand baseball.

9. Boston Beer Works

prac_info 61 Brookline Ave

This cavernous brew pub specializes in lighter American ales and serves giant plates of ribs and chicken that can easily feed two ravenous Red Sox fans.

10. Lucky Strike Social

prac_info 145 Ipswich St

Set behind Fenway Park, this entertainment complex features bowling lanes, pool tables, and video games, as well as the popular brewpub, Cheeky Monkey.

Restaurants

1. Citizen Public House

prac_info 1310 Boylston St • 617 450 9000 • $$

Craft beers, 100 whiskeys, excellent cocktails, and great pub food make Citizen a top neighborhood spot.

2. Island Creek Oyster Bar

prac_info 500 Commonwealth Ave • 617 532 5300 • Closed L Mon–Fri • $$$

Owned by the Duxbury oyster farm

of the same name, this swanky room excels at great local seafood with outstanding wines.

3. India Quality

prac_info 484 Commonwealth Ave • 617 267 4499 • $

Long-time favorite of Boston University students, India Quality focuses on northern Indian dishes roasted in a tandoor oven, but serves up several excellent fish and spicy plates as well.

4. Sweet Cheeks

prac_info 1381 Boylston St • 617 266 1300 • $$

Chef-owner Tiffani Faison is crazy about authentic Southern barbecue. Order pork belly by the pound and drink sweet tea from Mason jars.

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Interior of Sweet Cheeks

5. Wahlburgers

prac_info 132 Brookline Ave • 617 927 6810 • $

Chef Paul, brother of actor Mark Walhberg, runs this tongue-in-cheek joint that serves burgers with a twist.

6. Eastern Standard

prac_info 528 Commonwealth Ave • 617 532 9100 • $$$

Buttoned-down versions of continental classics have some hidden surprises on this menu, such as magnificent salt-cod fritters and Boston cream pie.

7. Café G

prac_info 25 Evans Way • 617 566 1088 • Closed D, Mon • $

Superb light fare, rich desserts, and fine wines complete a visit to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.

8. UBurger

prac_info 636 Beacon St • 617 536 0448 • $

What a concept – fast food, but made to order, and just as you like it. With over two dozen toppings you can truly customize your burger.

9. Tasty Burger

prac_info 1301 Boylston St • 617 425 4444 • $

This no-frills burger joint in the shadow of Fenway Park offers a variety of toppings and a wide assortment of beer.

10. El Pelon Taqueria

prac_info 92 Peterborough St • 617 262 9090 • $

A charming little eatery that churns out tasty Mexican-American treats at very competitive prices.

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