The atrocious state of the road keeps visitor numbers down, but the trek deep into Sian Ka’an (four-wheel-drive only) takes you to a tiny fishing village of sand streets and giant palms, with landing stages by the beach and a few easy-going restaurants and welcoming places to stay. Local guides offer snorkeling, bird-watching, and fishing trips.
Celebrated for the spectacular flocks of flamingos (see Río Lagartos) in the lagoon to their east, these villages delight visitors with their unhurried, easy-going style. There are great seafood restaurants too, as well as some pleasant small hotels, and, from San Felipe, wonderful sunsets.
An undisturbed gem of the Mexican Caribbean, Puerto Morelos has kept its mellow, fishing-village feel despite its close proximity to Cancún. There is no real nightlife to be found here, but there are lovely beaches, and many small apartments and hotels here offer long-term rates.
A well-rutted track off the main highway just north of Playa del Carmen leads in 2 bumpy miles (3 km) to superb, curving beaches of dazzling white sand and a perfect turquoise sea. Some resort hotels have opened up here (see Punta Bete), but there are still clusters of laid-back beach cabañas tucked away among the palms.
The epitome (see Tulum) of a tropical paradise: palm-shaded cabins only a few steps from a vividly colored sea, and with just candlelight and the sound of waves at night. The bargain cabañas at the north end of the beach are slightly noisier, so head south for pure tranquility.
If the Riviera seems too busy, take a long drive north to the tiny port of Chiquilá. Hop on a ferry to cross the beautiful lagoon (where dolphins are common) to reach the island of Holbox. Here you’ll find (see Isla Holbox) the simple pleasures of a friendly village, a long, empty beach, and some mellow places to stay.
With just one hotel, two sets of beach cabañas, and a couple of places to eat – with great fresh fish – this Gulf coast fishing village is for anyone who really does want a beach all to themselves.
Not a remote spot, but the curving beaches here are very long and often occupied only by a few small-scale hotels and condo apartments. It’s quite easy to find uncrowded space at Akumal, by an idyllic sea and with creature comforts included. There are also some excellent diving facilities here.
Flamingos, again, are the big attraction here (see Celestún) but, if you stay over in one of the small hotels after the day-trippers have returned to Mérida, you will be able to make the most of a delightfully peaceful little village (see Celestún), its beach strewn with fishing boats. North of Celestún is a really remote beach retreat at Xixim.
A seductive escape is offered (at upscale prices) by the hotels scattered around the Yucatán in beautifully converted old colonial haciendas, which are country estates. All have luxurious rooms surrounded by tropical gardens, with superb pools and fine restaurants.
3.80.211.101