The invalides for whom this imposing Hôtel was built were wounded soldiers of the late 17th century. Louis XIV had the building constructed between 1671 and 1678, and veterans are still housed here, although only a dozen or so compared to the original 4,000. They share their home with arguably the greatest French soldier of them all, Napoleon Bonaparte, whose body rests in a crypt directly below the golden dome of the Dôme Church. Other buildings accommodate military offices, the Musée de l’Armée and smaller military museums.
129 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 or Place Vauban, 75007 • 08 10 11 33 99 • www.invalides.org • Open Apr–Oct: 10am– 6pm daily (Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm); closed first Mon of the month (except Jul–Sep), Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1, Dec 25 • Adm $13.50 adults; $11 reduced; under 18 free; under 26 (EU only) free
Approach from the Seine for the best view, and then walk around to the ticket office on the south side. You will need a ticket for the museums and to see Napoleon’s Tomb. If time is short, concentrate on the Musée de l’Armée, before walking through to the cobbled courtyard in front of the Dôme Church.
The approach to the Hôtel is across public gardens and then through a gate into the Invalides Gardens themselves. Designed in 1704, their paths are lined by 17th- and 18th-century cannons.
The colorful, circular painting on the interior of the dome above the crypt is Saint Louis in Glory, painted in 1692 by the French artist Charles de la Fosse. Near the center is St. Louis, who represents Louis XIV, presenting his sword to Christ in the presence of the Virgin Mary and angels.
The second church at the Hôtel was begun in 1677 and took 27 years to build. Its magnificent dome stands 351 ft (107 m) high and glistens as much now as it did when Louis XIV, the Sun King, had it first gilded in 1715.
The Army Museum (129 Rue de Grenelle) is one of the largest collections of militaria in the world. Enthusiasts will be absorbed for hours, and even the casual visitor will enjoy the exhibits. The Département Moderne, which traces military history from Louis XIV to Napoleon III, is also worth a visit.
One of the loveliest sights in Paris, the Classical façade of the Hôtel is four floors high and 645 ft (196 m) end to end. Features include the dormer windows with their variously shaped shield surrounds.
The Order of Liberation, France’s highest military honor, was created by General de Gaulle in 1940 to acknowledge contributions during World War II. The museum details the history of the honor and the wartime Free French movement.
Napoleon’s body was brought here from St. Helena in 1840, some 19 years after he died. He rests in grandeur in a cocoon of six coffins, almost “on the banks of the Seine” as was his last wish.
Encircling the Dôme Church are the imposing tombs of great French military men, such as Marshal Foch and Marshal Vauban, who revolutionized military fortifications and siege tactics.
Adjoining the Dôme Church is the Invalides complex’s original church, worth seeing for its 17th-century organ, on which the first performance of Berlioz’s Requiem was given.
Maps and models of French forts and fortified towns are displayed here. Some of them are beautifully detailed, such as the oldest model on display, of Perpignan, dating from 1686.
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