Reminiscent of a provincial Mediterranean town, Goa’s capital, Panaji is situated at the mouth of the Mandovi River. Formerly a port of the kings of Bijapur, it became a military landing stage after the arrival of the Portuguese in 1510. In 1843, Panaji, or Panjim as it was then called, became the official capital of Portuguese territories in India. Today, it has a relaxed and friendly ambience, notably along the leafy avenues of the old town.
Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception: Rua Emidio Garcia; open 9am–7:30pm daily
Fontainhas
Statue of Abbé de Faria
Gallery Gitanjali: E-212, 31st January Rd, Fontainhas; 0832 242 3331; open 9am–6pm daily
Ashokan Pillar
Church Square
Altinho Hill: Bishop’s Palace: open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri (to 1pm Sat)
Institute Menezes Braganza: 0832 222 4143; open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat
Palace of Maquinezes: Dayanand Bandodkar Marg, Old GMC Complex; 0832 242 8111
Campal Gardens
Panaji’s most important landmark, this church, built in 1541, is where Portuguese sailors would come to pray after their long voyage from Lisbon. Its most striking feature is the double flight of stairs leading up to the church.
The narrow winding streets of the city’s Latin-influenced old quarter is lined with colourful houses, reminiscent of the Portuguese legacy.
This arresting statue is a tribute to Goan priest, Abbé de Faria. Born in Candolim, he won acclaim as the father of modern hypnosis. He also finds mention in Alexander Dumas’s famous novel, The Count of Monte Cristo.
Housed in a heritage complex, this gallery is an art and cultural hub. Abstract art is on display here and in Panjim People’s, Panjim Inn and Panjim Pousada hotels, which are part of the complex.
In the centre of the Municipal Gardens stands the Ashokan Pillar. The pillar initially featured a bust of explorer Vasco da Gama, but this was later replaced with the Buddhist Wheel of Law or the Ashoka Chakra, India’s national emblem.
At the heart of Panaji is a leafy park known as Church Square or the Municipal Gardens, originally named after 16th-century physician, Jardim de Garcia da Orta.
On the eastern edge of Panaji is the hilltop residential district of Altinho, which is home to the Bishop’s Palace. The pope stayed at the palace during his visit in 1999.
The azulejos (blue-and-white painted ceramic tiles) here are the highlight. These depict scenes from the epic Os Lusiadas, which recounts the history of the Portuguese presence in Goa.
A great example of Goan period architecture, this building belonged to Portuguese landowners called Maquinezes.
These pleasant riverside gardens are a good place to unwind. Visitors can also enjoy paddleboat rides on the Mandovi. Look out for a huge statue of Bhagwan Mahavir (the 24th Jain Tirthankara) here.
A delightful way to spend an evening is to take a sunset cruise along the Mandovi River. Operators also organize specialized tours through the backwaters, a vibrant mangrove habitat that is home to crocodiles. Tours by Pascoal Spice Farm take visitors to the sylvan settings of spice plantations, which attract flocks of birds.
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