PANAJI AND OLD GOA

The Mandovi River serves as a beautiful backdrop to the current and former capitals of Goa, Panaji and Old Goa respectively. Full of colonial charm, Panjim – officially known by its Maharashtrian name Panaji, which means “land that does not flood” – retains an old-fashioned character, which is evident in its grand colonial era buildings and backstreets of the atmospheric Latin Quarter, Fontainhas. Linked to modern Panaji by a centuries-old causeway is Old Goa, once known as “Golden Goa” for its incredible prosperity. Foremost among the attractions here are its iconic Baroque churches, which have been classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Nearby is lively Miramar Beach and quiet Dona Paula, replete with legends and known for its breathtaking sea views.

TopTen

Statue at the Bishops Palace

TopTen

1. Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

Overlooking Panaji’s main square is the iconic Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, built in 1541. The impressive double flight of stairs leading up to the church was added in 1871. The Baroque splendour of the main altar and the two transept altars is in sharp contrast to the otherwise simple interior.

2. Sé Cathedral

Ordered by the government in Portugal to build a church worthy of their mighty empire, Francis Coutinho (Viceroy, 1561–1564) envisaged a magnificent cathedral that would be the largest in Asia. The result is the Renaissance-style Sé Cathedral. Its façade was flanked by two square bell towers, only one of which survives. In it hangs the Golden Bell, known for its melodic tones. The interior features a gilded high altar, dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria, with panel paintings depicting scenes from her life.

TopTen

Altar of a chapel at Sé Cathedral

3. Fontainhas

The capital’s oldest and most colourful district, Fontainhas is known for preserving the ambience of colonial times. Street names such as Rua 31 de Janeira (31st January Road) signify Portugal’s independence from Spain, while 18th June Road commemorates the end of Portuguese rule in Goa. Look out for colour-washed houses and azulejo street signs.

TopTen

A street in Fontainhas flanked by brightly coloured Indo-Portuguese houses

4. Goa State Museum

prac_info EDC Complex, Patto • 0832 243 8006 • Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat

Established in 1977, this museum preserves Goa’s rich history. It houses a collection of pre-colonial artifacts, including statues, sati stones, carvings from ravaged Hindu temples, as well as some Christian icons. Look out for the furniture used by the Portuguese.

5. Cabo Raj Niwas

In 1760, this building became the official residence of the viceroys – until 1918. Extensive renovations have transformed the original Islamic structure into the colonial building it is today, with a sloping tiled roof, wide wooden verandahs and cast-iron pillars. The Ashoka Chakra, the emblem of the Indian government, has replaced the Portuguese viceroys’ coat of arms above the entrance.

6. Museum of Christian Art

prac_info Convent of Santa Monica, Velha Goa • 0832 228 5299 • Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat

Asia’s first Museum of Christian Art was established in 1991 by the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) and the Gulbenkian Foundation of Portugal. The impressive collection includes 17th- and 18th-century religious objects such as silver and ivory ornaments, ornate clerical robes, processional crosses and holy water sprinklers.

7. Dona Paula

About 7 km (4 miles) southwest of Panaji, Dona Paula is located near the headland dividing the estuaries of the Zuari and Mandovi rivers. According to legend, it is named after a viceroy’s daughter who, it is believed, jumped into the sea when she wasn’t allowed to marry a local fisherman. The jetty offers views of Fort Aguada, across the bay, and is especially beautiful during sunset. Jet skis are available for rent, and visitors can also take a ferry ride to Vasco da Gama harbour.

8. Miramar Beach

Panaji’s nearest beach, Miramar is about 3 km (2 miles) west. Named Porta de Gaspar Dias by the Portuguese, this beach is a busy spot especially during the evenings. Several food trucks and shacks offer streetside snacks here.

TopTen

Popular sands of Miramar Beach

9. Basilica de Bom Jesus

Built by the Jesuits in 1594, this church is home to the world-famous mausoleum of Francis Xavier, Goa’s patron saint.

10. Indian Customs & Central Excise Museum

prac_info Avenida Dom João de Castro, Ozari, Panaji • 0982 366 5719 • Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun

Housed in a striking blue heritage building, this museum offers an insight into the history of the customs and excise departments in India. The museum has four galleries, which showcase an array of seized goods and antiques. On display are items such as the gilded idol of Jambala that was smuggled into India from Nepal.

THE GOAN INQUISITION

At the request of Francis Xavier, a tribunal of Jesuits arrived in 1560. Their mission was to curb the libertine ways of the Portuguese settlers and convert “infidels”. Those who refused were locked away in the dungeons of the “Palace of the Inquisition” (as Adil Shah’s palace was known) to await the auto da fé (acts of faith) trials. The condemned were burnt alive in front of a congregation of dignitaries. Over the next 200 years, 16,000 trials were held and thousands were killed, and it was not until 1812 that the Inquisition was finally dissolved.

A DAY IN PANAJI AND OLD GOA

TopTen

MORNING

A good way to get a feel of Goa’s Portuguese ambience is by spending some time in Panaji, which is ideally located on the banks of the Mandovi River. Begin your morning with a cup of coffee at the Caravela Café before heading to the nearby Gallery Gitanjali, an arts and cultural centre that displays works by national and international artists. Next, stop at the distinctive Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, an important landmark. Allow yourself an hour here. Then enjoy a riverside stroll along the Mandovi, passing attractions such as the Old Secretariat and the striking Statue of Abbé de Faria along the way. Next stop for lunch at The Fisherman’s Wharf. Sample local and European cuisine here.

AFTERNOON

After lunch, enjoy a drive along the Mandovi River to the Basilica de Bom Jesus and Sé Cathedral in Old Goa. The basilica is revered by Catholics from all over as it is home to the mortal remains of Goa’s patron saint, Francis Xavier. It is advisable to dress conservatively when visiting. From Old Goa hop on board a bus to Panaji’s Kadamba Bus Stand. Then take a short stroll along the bustling 18th June Road, which will lead you to The Black Sheep Bistro, popularly known as BSB. The globally inspired menu features dishes made with local ingredients.

Places to Shop

1. Velha Goa Galeria

prac_info Rua de Ourém, Panaji • Open 10:30am–7:30pm Mon–Sat

An iconic store in Goa’s Latin Quarter, which specializes in traditional hand-painted azulejos.

2. Solar Souto Maior

prac_info B-40, Maior Sao Pedro, Old Goa • Open 9:30am–6:30pm daily

This heritage house is an art gallery and a museum-shop displaying chandeliers, wall hangings and more.

3. Sosa’s

prac_info E-245, Rua de Ourém, Panaji • 0832 222 8063 • Open 10:30am–7pm Mon–Sat

Shop for apparel by reputed designers such as Aki Narula, Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta.

4. Aparant Goan Handicrafts Emporium

prac_info Crafts Complex, Malacca Rd, Panaji • 0832 222 4478

This emporium promotes a variety of handicrafts such as woollen tapestries and carpets made by local artisans.

5. Mario Gallery

prac_info Below Aroma Hotel, Duarte Pacheco Rd, Panaji • 0832 242 1776

Artworks of Goa’s most celebrated artist, Mario Miranda, can be found here. The store offers various collectibles and his famous illustrations.

TopTen

Prints for sale at Mario Gallery

6. Marcou Artifacts

prac_info Casa Rocha, 31st January Rd, Panaji • 0832 222 0204 • www.marcouartifacts.com

This quirky store is known for its beautifully handcrafted souvenirs and ceramic decorative items made by local artisans.

7. Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan

prac_info Municipality Building, Atmaram Borkar Rd, Panaji • 0832 223 2746 • Open 9am–7pm Mon–Fri

The Khadi and Village Industries Commission’s emporium offers handmade cottons, oils, soaps and spices.

8. Wendell Rodricks Design Space

prac_info 158, near Luis Gomes Garden, Panaji • 0832 223 8177

The flagship store of designer Wendell Rodricks stocks an organic clothing line for men and women.

9. Sacha’s Shop

prac_info Swami Vivekananda Rd, Panaji • 0832 222 2035 • Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat (from noon Sun)

Sacha Mendes’s boutique has stylish Goan resort wear, statement jewellery, and bags. It also has designer labels.

10. Galeria Azujelos De Goa

prac_info Next to Sales Tax Office, Panaji • 0982 297 6867 • Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat

Set inside Orlando de Noronha’s 250-year-old home, this unique shop is ideal for gifts and souvenirs.

Places to Eat

1. Mum’s Kitchen

prac_info 854, Martins Building, D B St, Panaji • 0982 217 5559 • ₹₹₹

Dishes here are recreated from old family recipes collected from across the state. The kombdechem sukhem (spicy boneless chicken) is a speciality.

2. The Black Sheep Bistro

prac_info Swami Vivekanand Rd, Panaji • 0832 222 2901 • ₹₹₹

In BSB’s sophisticated dining room, a savvy take on globally inspired cuisine is the order of the day. Try their cocktails.

TopTen

The Black Sheep Bistro

3. Peep Kitchen

prac_info Risara Luxury, Ground Floor, Taliegao Market Rd, Panaji • 0880 617 0123 • Closed Mon • ₹₹

Through its food, this eatery focuses on reviving old recipes and disappearing culinary traditions. The prawn masala fry and fish recheado are favourites.

4. Barrel & Bones

prac_info 49, Fontainhas, Panaji • 0777 408 276 • ₹₹

This intimate and rustic steakhouse is known for its generous portions of masterfully prepared steaks. Try the famed Goan sausage pizza too.

5. Tao

prac_info A-1, Dr Gama Pinto Rd, Panaji • 0787 507 9242 • ₹₹₹

A classy restaurant, Tao has rustic stonewalls, a pebbled bar and bamboo slated lighting. The menu offers Cambodian, Chinese, Balinese, Singaporean and Korean specialities.

6. Oak Barrel

prac_info Dayanand Bandodkar Marg, Miramar • 0832 246 4330 • Closed Tue • ₹₹

Sample delicious Thai and Chinese cuisine in a relaxed setting at Oak Barrel. Enjoy hearty portions of dim sums, Taipei chicken and the sushi platter.

7. Café Bodega

prac_info 63/C-8, Sunaparanta, Goa Centre for the Arts, Panaji • 0832 242 1315 • Closed Sun • ₹₹

An alfresco café set in the courtyard of an art gallery, Café Bodega is the perfect spot to enjoy breakfast. The Vietnamese coffee is not to be missed.

8. Ritz Classic

prac_info 10678, 1st floor, Wagle Vision Building, 18th June Rd, Panaji • 0832 242 6417 • ₹

The flavour-packed food and competitive prices draw in a steady stream of diners through the day. Don’t miss the fish thali (platter).

9. Caravela Café

prac_info 27, 31st January Rd, Panaji • 0832 223 7448 • ₹₹

This quaint café serves delicious breakfast and light eats. The menu includes local specialities such as rissois (shrimp patties), chorizo pao (local bun), desserts and coffee.

10. Desbue

prac_info Near St Sebastian Chapel Fontainhas, Panaji • 0832 223 5555 • ₹₹₹

Housed in “La Maison”, a beautiful Portuguese house, this typical French restaurant is known for its exceptional fusion food. Enjoy European flavours combined with traditional Goan cuisine at its best.

PRICE CATEGORIES

For a meal for two, including taxes and service charge but not alcohol.


under ₹700 ₹₹ ₹700–₹1500 ₹₹₹ over ₹1500

..................Content has been hidden....................

You can't read the all page of ebook, please click here login for view all page.
Reset
3.149.251.154