REAL BASÍLICA DE SAN FRANCISCO EL GRANDE
Richly endowed with the work of great artists, the Real Basílica de San Francisco el Grande is one of Madrid’s most iconic churches. The focal point of its unusual circular design is the stupendous dome – the biggest in Spain and the fourth largest in Europe – which was designed by Francisco Cabezas but completed, after work was halted due to complications with the size, by Francesco Sabatini in 1784. The basilica was declared a National Monument in 1980 and now, after 30 years of restoration, its ceiling frescoes are once again revealed in their original glory.
NEED TO KNOW
Calle Gran Vía de San Francisco 19 • 913 65 38 00 • Open Jul–Sep: 10:30am–12:30pm & 5–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Jun: 10:30am–12:30pm & 4–6pm Tue–Sat; closed during services on Sat • Adm €5; concessions €3
- Café Delic, located on picturesque Plaza de la Paja, is a short walk up Calle de Bailén and Calle de la Redondilla.
- A guided tour of the basilica is included in the admission fee. The tour is in Spanish, but the guides are happy to answer questions in English.
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales Floorplan
1. The Dome
One of the basilica’s most striking features, the immense dome measures 58 m (190 ft) high and 33 m (108 ft) in diameter. A work of art in itself, it is divided into eight main panels decorated with majestic frescoes depicting scenes of kings and saints paying homage to the Virgin Mary.
The Dome
2. The Doors
The seven main doors leading inside were carved in walnut in the 19th century by architect Casa Juan Guas. Some of the finest relief work can be seen on the three central doors, depicting Christ crucified and, to either side, Dismas and Gestas, the thieves who died alongside Him.
3. The Exterior
Following a renovation project in 1878, the basilica’s Neo-Classical façade is dominated by the dome and twin towers. Its simple decoration, featuring Doric columns on the lower level and slender Ionic columns on the upper, is the work of the royal architect Francesco Sabatini.
The Exterior
4. The Side Chapels
The six side chapels feature large frescoes. Look out for Mariano Salvador Maella’s Immaculate Conception (1784) and José Casado del Alisal’s Santiago at the Battle of Clavijo (1885).
The Side Chapels
5. The Wall Paintings
In the main chapel, five wall paintings dominate the area behind the High Altar, separated by gilt-trimmed columns. They depict scenes from the life of St Francis of Assisi.
6. The 12 Apostles
Marble sculptures of the 12 Apostles guard the side chapels’ entrances. They were made by many artists, including Agapit Vallmitjana i Barbany and Jerónimo Suñol.
7. The Galleries
Behind the High Altar, several corridors display artwork from the 17th to 19th centuries, many depicting the life of St Francis of Assisi. According to legend, the basilica occupies the site of a convent founded by the saint in 1217.
8. Capilla de San Bernadino
The chapel of San Bernardino de Siena features one of Francisco Goya’s most stunning paintings, San Bernadino de Siena Preaching Before Alfonso V of Aragón (1784). It depicts a rare self-portrait of the artist (he’s in the yellow tunic on the right).
Capilla de San Bernadino
9. The Nave
The basilica’s nave is unusual in that it is circular in shape and is positioned directly beneath the dome, where the altar is normally located.
10. The Sacristy
The basilica’s sacristy is reached through the galleries and features beautifully carved wooden seats from the Renaissance. In the small chamber, one room further on, look out for Francisco Zurbarán’s San Bonaventure Visited by Thomas Aquinas (1629).
THE CONVENT COMPLEX
The basilica is part of a wider convent complex. The adjoining Capilla del Cristo de los Dolores is named after the image it contains – the Christ of Sorrows (1664), designed by Sebastián de Herrera. It depicts Christ with holes in His hands from the nails on the cross. To the south lies Dalieda de San Francisco, a peaceful garden with grand views over La Latina and the Casa de Campo.
