A feast of colour and fun, the carnival in Madrid begins the weekend before Shrove Tuesday with music, dancing and parades. Ash Wednesday sees the “Burial of the Sardine”. The mock funeral procession leaves from the church of San Antonio de la Florida and ends with the burial in the Casa de Campo, marking the start of Lent.
The celebration of the Passion of Christ is one of the most important traditions in Spain. The three days leading up to Easter see sombre but spectacular religious processions. On Holy Thursday, watch the image of Jesus being carried by penitents in traditional purple hoods and with chains around their feet. On Good Friday evening the procession of Jesús de Medinacelli leaves the basilica of the same name before winding its way around the city centre.
Madrid has two patron saints, both honoured with feast days. On 15 May the Feast of San Isidro the Labourer sees picnics, concerts and a procession to the Ermita de San Isidro. The Feast of the Virgin of Almudena takes place on 9 November when the virgin’s image is paraded through the city, followed by a mass in the cathedral which bears her name (see p102).
www.veranosdelavilla.com • www.madrid.org/fo
Venues all across the city host an extravaganza of dance, music, drama and film during the summer Veranos de la Villa festival and the Festival de Otoño in autumn.
www.fundacionolivardecastillejo.org • www.rjb.csic.es
Enjoy a concert of classical music from mid-June to mid-September at the Fundación Olivar de Castillejo, a peaceful oasis full of olive trees in the middle of the city. Nature and classical music also come together at the Real Jardín Botánico every Friday evening in summer.
www.iferma.es/arco-madrid • www.artemadrid.com/apertura
With one of the liveliest art scenes in Europe, Madrid hosts some major art events. ARCO art fair, usually held in February, draws artists and collectors from all over the world. In September, during Apertura Madrid, galleries and museums launch their new exhibitions with free entry over a weekend.
Many of the exponents of flamenco are based in Madrid. To attend one of the most comprehensive gatherings of flamenco artists, head to the Suma Flamenca festival, usually held in June. Flamenco Madrid, hosted in spring by the Teatro Fernán Gómez, also puts on performances.
Celebrating the victory over Napoleon and the French occupation on 2 May 1808, the Day of the Community of Madrid is one of the most popular festivals in the city. Celebrations take place on Playa de Dos de Mayo, with concerts, dancing and sports competitions, followed by a military parade and fireworks.
www.tapapies.com • www.gastrofestivalmadrid.com
Taste the best of the world at TapaPiés in October when bars and restaurants in Lavapiés offer tapas for only €1.50– €2.50. During Gastrofestival, venues across the city stage gastronomy events in February.
One of the most magical times during Christmas is the evening of 5 January when Madrileños celebrate Epiphany with the Procession of the Kings. Multiple floats parade through the city and the Kings throw sweets out into the crowd.
6 Jan
Round buns with almonds and candied fruit, usually containing a small charm.
Holy Week
Very sweet brioches which are eaten with hard-boiled eggs.
Holy Week
Slices of milk-soaked bread, fried and laced with cinnamon and sugar.
15 May
Small doughnuts with a variety of flavours and bizarre names such as “the fool”, “the intelligent one” and “Santa Clara”.
13 Jun
Small rolls marked with a cross, served at the Church of San Antonio.
13 Jun
“Needlewomen’s sighs” – meringues filled with praline.
1 Nov
Small profiteroles filled with cream, custard or chocolate.
1 Nov
Marzipan sweets sculpted to look like “saints’ bones”.
Christmas
Crumbly biscuits flavoured with cinnamon and almonds.
Christmas
Nougat, hard or soft, and made in various flavours.
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