Some of the greatest masterpieces of Indian sculpture are located within the 6th-century AD Elephanta Caves. Chiselled into a rocky cliff on an island off Mumbai’s eastern shore, these cave temples are dedicated primarily to Lord Shiva. Originally called Gharapuri, or “City of Caves”, this UNESCO World Heritage Site was renamed Elefante (later morphed to its current name) by the Portuguese after a huge stone elephant that once stood here.
9 km (6 miles) NE of Mumbai • 022 2202 6364 (for ferries)• Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm ₹250 (Indians ₹10)
Toy Train: Adm ₹5
Elephanta Festival: 2 days in February
Hailed by art historian Percy Brown as “the creation of a genius”, Mahesamurti, known as Trimurti, is the glory of Elephanta. It is carved into the rear wall of the northern entrance, and represents the three manifestations of Shiva: the Preserver, the Creator, and the Destroyer.
The first, main cave of the seven is the highlight of the island. The next four caves are on the western Cannon Hill, named after the Portuguese cannons found here.
To the west of Mahesamurti is a panel of Shiva as Gangadhara: helping the river-goddess Ganga descend to earth, while his consort Parvati and other deities look on. Above him are three heads symbolizing Yamuna, Ganga and Saraswati – India’s sacred rivers.
Contrasting images of peace and violence can be seen around the caves. The sculpture depicting the marriage of Shiva and Parvati near the western entrance is one such image. Opposite it is a panel showing Shiva impaling the demon Andhaka.
This hill gets its name from a stupa, a 2nd-century BC structure containing the remains of Buddhist monks. Another significant site here is the Portuguese cave-church that was once a Hindu temple.
The island can be reached via a 45-minute ferry ride. A comfortable toy train takes visitors from the jetty to the base of the hill. One can also walk to the base, along the pier.
The ambience at this wonderfully lit, week-long festival of music and dance is a treat for lovers of the arts. It is held in the open, with the imposing sculpture of Mahesamurti serving as backdrop.
East of the Mahesamurti is a sculpture of Shiva as Ardhanarishvara – the lord who is both male and female symbolizing divine unity, in which all opposites are resolved.
The east entrance of the main cave has a sculpture of Shiva and his wife, Parvati, contentedly seated in their mountain abode, as the demon-king Ravana tries to destroy their home by shaking the mountain.
An iconic panel in the main cave is that of Shiva as Nataraja, the “lord of dance”. He is encircled by an enthralled divine audience, which includes Brahma, the Creator, as well as Shiva and Parvati’s sons, Ganesha and Kartikeya.
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