CENTRAL MUMBAI
Not quite South Mumbai, but not the northern suburbs either, Central Mumbai bears characteristics of both sides of the city. While Dadar and Matunga lie nestled against the modern sky scrapers in Wadala, Sion exhibits a more historic character, having been used by the British to demar-cate the end of city limits in colonial times. Mahim has a more religious flavour, located right alongside Dharavi. Dadar, the first planned suburb in the city, harbours residences and shops. It is considered to be the home of immigrant Marathi culture. Not far from the newer commercial district, this part of Mumbai is easily accessible by public transport and has some diverse and unusual tourist attractions, all of which are worth stepping out for.
1. Five Gardens
Mancherji E Joshi Chowk, Dadar East • Open 6–11am & 4–8pm daily
A cluster of five lush gardens set just off an area popularly known as the Dadar Parsi Colony, this space was developed by the British and is officially called Mancherji Joshi Panch Udyan. As you amble along the wide, tree-lined avenues on a sultry afternoon or take a walk in the evening, marvel at the architecture all around.
2. BEST Transport Museum
Third Floor, Anik Bus Depot, Sion • 022 2407 4336 • Open 9am–5pm Wed–Sun
Chronicling the evolution of transport systems in the city from 1947 to present times, this museum showcases various miniature models, including a model of Daimler, the 1938 version of the double-decker bus, horse-pulled trams from 1874 and old bus tickets. It was originally located at the Kurla bus depot but was moved to Sion after an expansion here.
Double-decker bus, BEST Transport Museum
3. Kochu Guruvayoor Sree Ram Mandir
Bhandarkar Rd, Matunga East • Open 5–11am Mon–Wed & Fri (until noon Thu, Sat & Sun) & 4:30–9pm daily • www.asthikasamajmatunga.com
Located in the midst of busy Matunga, an area with a large population from the south of India, Kochu Guruvayoor temple is the oldest of its kind by the Asthika Samaj. It is known for an ancient banyan tree, thought to fulfill the desires of devotees. It also offers a peaceful escape from the bustle of the locality. Look out for its majestic entrance hidden amidst tall trees.
Detailing on the façade of the temple
4. Sion Hillock Fort
Air Force Quarters, Sion East • Open 7am–noon & 4–8pm daily • www.maharashtratourism.gov.in/treasures/fort/sion-fort
A 345 year-old stone structure laid on the hilltop of the erstwhile Parel island, Sion Fort is nestled within a nondescript garden, in the middle of the busy suburb of Sion. This unique hillock fortress was built by Gerald Aungier, the second Governor of Bombay. It was one of the most strategically located forts for the island of Bombay, which was separated from the “mainland”, the island of Salsette. Today, the ruins provide a peaceful respite from the city and offer beautiful views of the Thane salt pans and the verdant foliage that surrounds the spot.
Ruins of the Sion Hillock Fort
5. Dadar Flower Market
Tulsi Pipe Rd, near Pedestrian Overpass, Dadar West • Open 5:30–9am daily
Lovingly referred to as Phool Gully, the resplendent Dadar Flower Market is hidden among many office and residential buildings. Running alongside the local train station, the market sets up early and wraps up before the start of office hours. Visit for the variety of stunning flowers, ranging from roses, lotuses and orchids to chrysanthemums, hydrangeas and daisies.
The flower market buzzing with activity on the eve of Dussehra
6. Dharavi
A good way to understand Mumbai is to take an organized tour of Asia’s second-largest slum, Dharavi. It houses nearly 7 million of Mumbai’s residents and has been featured in cinema and literature. Tours of the area, some run by not-for-profit groups, usually strive to provide an insight into the way of life here, even offering overnight stays with locals. You can also find out more about initiatives such as The Dharavi Project by the ACORN Foundation (www.dharaviproject.org). Located within this area, close to the Mithi River, is an old British fortress known as Riwa Fort or Kala Killa. A shadow of its former self, it was built in 1737 as protection when Salsette Island was taken from the Portuguese by the Marathas.
A potter selling his wares in Dharavi
7. Mahim Nature Park
Sion–Bandra Link Rd, Mahim • Open 9am–3pm daily
Officially called Maharashtra Nisarg Udyan (see Mahim Nature Park), the park boasts of a beautiful woodland with 14,000 trees, an extensive variety of plants and herbs, a small lake with fish, as well as several species of insects and butterflies. A variety of flowers greet visitors down the path to the centre, where a building houses an amphitheatre, an audio-visual room as well as a library.
8. Rajgruha
Rajgruha Chowk, Hindu Colony, Dadar East • 92234 56777 • Open 10:30am–5:30pm Wed–Mon
Built under the supervision of social reformer, economist and politician Dr B R Ambedkar, this house was his family’s residence. It was named after Rajgriha, an ancient Buddhist city. Over the years, the house has also played host to various students from poor socio-economic backgrounds. Today, the ground floor serves as a museum in memory of Dr Ambedkar, where his photographs and personal belongings are displayed. His ashes are also housed here.
9. BAPS Swaminarayan Temple
Swaminarayan Chowk, opposite Dadar (CR) Station • Open timings vary, check website for details • www.baps.org
Built by the Bochasanwasi Shri Akshar Purushottam Swaminarayan Sanstha (BAPS) in 1983, it took five years for this temple to be completed. Its striking pink stone walls are adorned with intricately carved Hindu deities. Morning as well as evening aartis (prayers), attract large crowds, in addition to the regular tourists.
BAPS Swaminarayan Temple
10. Dadar Chowpatty Beach
Off Kashinath Dhuru Marg, Prabhadevi • Open daily
A smaller, less-crowded, but beloved spot near Shivaji Park is the Dadar Beach. It is mostly used by locals for morning jogs, yoga, and weekend outings, but don’t be put off by its size. A cleaning drive in 2016 has led to an increase in visitors who throng here to enjoy the scenic views across Mahim Bay and the Bandra–Worli Sea Link or to watch the sunset. Note that there are no food stalls nearby, so ensure that you eat beforehand or carry a snack.
A DAY IN DADAR AND MATUNGA
MORNING
Start your day early by heading to Tulsi Pipe Road, for the busy Dadar Flower Market. After enjoying the sights and smells of the beautiful flowers, take a taxi to the scenic Dadar Chowpatty Beach. You could stroll along the shore and take in the sea views here, then walk ahead to see the Mayoral Bungalow nearby. Right across the main entry road is the historic Shivaji Park, the ground where many Indian cricketing legends started their careers. Walk around the park complex, and stop at the many small temples around. Thereafter, head east, towards the Shiv Sena Bhavan – headquarters of a popular political party in Maharashtra. Cross over and walk to Aaswad for a traditional Maharashtrian lunch.
AFTERNOON
After lunch, take a taxi or walk for about 10 minutes until you reach the Plaza Cinema. See its iconic, old-word façade, then walk past the busy roadside market, dotted with sellers displaying a myriad collection of items until you reach the Dadar station. Here, you can buy a platform ticket to cross over the bridge to Dadar East. Alternatively, you could take a taxi directly from Aaswad for the BAPS Swaminarayan Temple. Spend about half an hour here, then take another taxi to the lush Five Gardens, or head to the Kochu Guruvayoor Sree Ram Mandir. End your day at the nearby Café Madras with a hot cup of filter coffee.
Bars & Cafés
1. The Beer Café
Milli CHS, Kataria Rd, Mahim • 022 6888 8105 • Open 11am–midnight daily
A variety of beers, sliders and pizzas are served in a cheery ambience.
Bright interiors at The Beer Café, Mahim
2. Grandmama’s All Day Café
5, Pritam Estate, Dadar East • 74000 92990 • Open 9am–midnight daily
Grandmama’s is known for its Parsi and Italian dishes and great coolers.
3. Prithvi’s Cavern
Hindu Colony, Dadar East • 022 2414 2849 • Open 11am–3:30pm & 6pm–1am daily
A relaxed café offering board games, drinks and delicious Chinese food.
4. MRP – My Regular Place
20, Pritam Estate, Dadar East • 74000 93021 • Open noon–3pm & 6pm–1:30am daily
Enjoy live music and board games, along with moderately-priced drinks and great finger food here.
5. Reunion Bar & Kitchen
L J Rd, Dadar West • 022 2422 1821 • Open noon–1:30am daily
Make sure you try their liqueurs, beer biryani and the drunken chicken.
6. Open House Café & Bar
Cadel Rd, Shivaji Park, Dadar West • 022 2445 5044 • Open 12:30pm–12:30am daily
Highlights here include delicious comfort food and refreshing drinks.
7. Angrezi Dhaba
Nakshatra Mall, Dadar West • 90046 87755 • Open noon–1am daily
Hearty Indian and global fusion food and drinks in a rustic Indian ambience.
8. Café Istaa
12 A/1, New Sion CHS Ltd, Sion West • 022 3015 1216/2408 3306 • Open 9am–11pm daily
With prompt and friendly service, this café is a great spot to enjoy snacks and pastry desserts.
9. Café Trofima
Rd 2, Shivaji Park, Dadar West • 82910 19988 • Open 11am–midnight daily
Budget café with great breakfasts and mocktails. Try the keema pav here.
10. The Bar Stock Exchange
289, Veer Savarkar Rd, Shivaji Park, Dadar West • 91703 91703 • Open noon–1:30am daily
India’s best stock market-based pub chain, TBSE is known for its uniquely-priced drinks and comfort food.
Places to Eat
1. Goa Portuguesa
Mili Building, Near Hinduja Hospital, Mahim • 022 2444 0707 • Open noon–3:30pm & 7pm–midnight daily • ₹₹
This is a pioneer in Portuguese and Goan cuisine. Try the vindaloo or the balchao here and enjoy the live music.
2. Paramount
62, L J Rd, Mahim West • 022 2445 4104 • Open 10–1am daily • ₹
Budget non-vegetarian and vegetarian food, along with great tea and coffee.
3. Pritam Da Dhaba
Hotel Midtown Pritam, Dadar East • 022 2414 3311 • Open 11–1am daily • ₹₹
Expect to enjoy filling North Indian fare here, including butter chicken and mutton biryani.
4. Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar
18, L J Rd, Mahim West • 022 2446 5654 • Open 11am–midnight daily • ₹₹
A haven for lovers of Mughlai cuisine, their range of biryani is exceptional.
Chicken dish at Jaffer Bhai’s
5. Hotel Ram Ashraya
Bhandarkar Rd, Matunga East • 022 2410 2369 • Closed Mon • ₹
Inexpensive, no-frills dishes from the south of India. Make sure you try the pineapple halvah (Indian sweetmeat).
6. Café Madras
Circle House, Matunga East • 022 2401 4419 • Closed Mon • ₹
Simple, traditional delicacies (see Café Madras) such as dahi vada (flour balls soaked in yogurt) and idli sambar (rice cake with lentil and tamarind broth).
7. Aaswad
Gokhale Rd, Dadar West • 022 2445 1871 • Closed Mon • ₹
Popular spot for delicious, home-style Maharashtrian vegetarian dishes.
8. Thangabali
3–5, Manmohan Bhawan, Mahim • 022 2447 4499 • Open 7–11am, noon–4pm & 7pm–midnight daily • ₹₹
Great seafood and non vegetarian fare from across India’s southern states.
9. The Yellow Chilli
Star Mall, N C Kelkar Rd, Dadar West • 022 2436 5563 • Open noon–3:30pm & 7–11pm daily • ₹₹
Celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor’s famous restaurant serves delectable and elegant pan-Indian cuisine.
10. Mama Kane
222, Smruti Kunj, Senapati Bapat Marg, Dadar West • 022 2422 1161 • Closed Mon • ₹
The misal (mung bean curry) pav and thalipeeth (multi-grain pancake) here are a must-try for all visitors.