WEST MUMBAI
Located along the western end of Salsette Island, the upscale suburbs of Bandra, Juhu and Andheri cluster together to form a dazzling Bollywood mecca of sorts. Peppered across these areas are glamorous residential bungalows of famous actors, along with a number of film studios, editing suites and production houses. Bollywood apart, the region brims with cultural hubs bursting with life and colour, including places of worship, shopping centres and a number of beaches.
1. Bandstand
A 1.5 km- (1 mile-) long promenade running parallel to the Arabian Sea from St Andrew’s Church to Land’s End, Bandra Bandstand is among the busiest areas in town. Initially inhabited by Europeans from the military, Parsis and Goans, who migrated here in the 19th century, the place gets its name from the iconic canopy-covered bandstand in which the Navy band once performed in the evenings. Today, Bandstand is thronged by joggers, Bollywood fans and groups of people taking leisurely walks or watching the waves crash onto the seashore.
2. Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount
Known for its peaceful ambience and semi-Gothic architecture, this Roman Catholic church, popularly known as Mount Mary, is located on a hill overlooking the sea, about 80 m (262 ft) above the ground. Inside, the sanctum sanctorum has seven steps, which lead to an ornamented marble altar. The basilica has attracted people of various faiths over the years, ever since it opened back in the 18th century, and is especially crowded on Our Lady’s birthday in September. The road outside is lined with small shops selling candles, flowers and other offerings for worship.
3. Bandra–Worli Sea Link
Officially known as the Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link, the Bandra–Worli Sea Link is a cable bridge connecting Bandra in the west to Worli in the south. On a clear day, a drive along this road offers a spectacular view of the sea, and it looks truly alluring in the night with all the vibrant lights.
The amazing Bandra–Worli Sea Link
4. Gilbert Hill
Andheri West
One of the world’s oldest black basalt rock formations, the monolithic Gilbert Hill stands riveted in a clearing located in Andheri West, right in the heart of the city. The hill is named after American geologist Grove Karl Gilbert, in honor of his contribution to this field of research. Situated 60 m (200 ft) above sea level, atop this hill in a small garden, are two Hindu shrines dedicated to the goddesses Gaodevi and Durgamata, which can be accessed by trekking up the steep steps carved into the rocks. The views of the city from the hilltop are absolutely mesmerizing, especially after dusk.
A Hindu shrine atop Gilbert Hill
5. Prithvi Theatre
20, Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Rd, Juhu • Adm • www.prithvitheatre.org
A haven for theatre lovers in the city, the renowned Prithvi Theatre was commissioned by Shashi Kapoor and his wife Jennifer, in memory of the iconic actor Prithviraj Kapoor. With strong acoustics and a cosy, intimate stage and seating area, this place is frequented by theatre aficionados as well as aspiring actors and directors. It showcases performances Tuesday through Sunday from 6pm to 9pm. The ever popular Prithvi Café located within the premises boasts a relaxed and casual vibe, and attracts a large clientele that comes to attend talks, interactive sessions and even script readings. If lucky, you might even be able to spot some well-known actors here.
Outdoor café at Prithvi Theatre, Juhu
6. ISKCON Temple
Hare Krishna Land, Sri Mukteshwar Devalaya Rd, Juhu • 022 2620 6860 • Open 4:30am–1pm & 4:30–9pm daily • www.iskconmumbai.com
A Juhu landmark, this beautiful Hare Rama Hare Krishna temple of the International Society of Krishna Consciousness is spread across 1.5 ha (4 acres), and was founded by spiritual leader Srila Prabhupada in 1978. The temple is dedicated to Radha-Krishna and the eight companions of Radha. Visitors to the temple can witness and even participate in the revelries. “Janmashtami”, or Lord Krishna’s birthday, is an important day at the ISKCON Temple, when thousands of devotees throng the temple. Also located on the temple’s premises are an auditorium, a library, a guest house, the Govinda restaurant serving pure vegetarian food, and a bakery.
7. Mahakali Caves
Mahakali Caves Rd, Andheri East
Formerly known as Kondivita caves, the ancient Mahakali Caves excavated in Andheri East consist of a medley of 19 rock-cut monuments carved out of solid basalt rock. Of these, 15 caves are located to the southeast and four to the northwest. Most of the caves are viharas (monastries or dwellings) where monks once resided, but Cave 9, the largest, is a chaitya (prayer hall) and features depictions of the Buddha and of Buddhist mythological figures carved into stone. A day trip to these caves offers great insight into the Buddhist way of life.
Buddhist carvings inside the Mahakali Caves
8. Juhu Chowpatty Beach
Juhu
Sprawled along the Arabian Sea, Juhu beach is among the key tourist attractions in Mumbai. The horse-riding and walking tours offered here are very sought after, but millions come here primarily to enjoy the beautiful sunsets, and to take a dip in the sea. Stalls selling pani puri and bhel puri (popular Indian snacks) line the beach front, and are perpetually crowded with visitors. This beach is also a popular spot for film shootings, and is located close to the residential homes of several film stars.
Sunset at Juhu Chowpatty Beach
9. Carter Road
A well-known spot in Bandra, this long walkway (see Carter Road) along the sea was built in 2008. Its chess-board ground and main gazebo attract a large number of visitors, as do the numerous restaurants and cafés that dot the area. A haven for food lovers, it has earned the nickname khau gali, literally meaning food alley. Also a major attraction here is the annual three-day live art festival, Art by The Sea, where prominent artists paint against an enchanting sunset.
10. Bandra Fort
The Castella de Aguada was constructed by the Portuguese in 1640, after the defeat of Bahadur Shah of Gujarat. Initially intended to be a watchtower, today it stands as a memorial headstone, and also hosts a number of events throughout the year in the amphitheatre located in the fort complex.
THE SUBURB OF JUHU
Juhu, or ‘Juvem’ as the Portuguese called it, is the city’s balmy beach suburb well-known as the residence of celebrated actor Amitabh Bachchan, and for the lively, bustling Juhu Beach. A rich history of inhabitation, dating back over 400 years, has resulted in Juhu serving as home to a variety of communities – fisher folk, agriculturists, industrialists, businessmen and other professionals. Ever since industrialist Jamsetji Tata purchased land here in 1890 and had a magnificent bungalow constructed, Juhu has attracted the elite, A-list crowd of Mumbai, and has grown to become one of the most sought-after residential localities.
A DAY IN BANDRA
MORNING
Start off with a visit to Mehboob Studios, where many films and reality shows are shot. Then, head towards the stunning Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount. Next, walk down from Kent Road past Taj Lands End towards the famed Bandstand. Explore shops along the promenade, take in sea views or simply people-watch. Afterwards, proceed to Bandra Fort, and stop by Mannat, the residence of acclaimed Indian film actor Shah Rukh Khan, along the way. Later, head to Hill Road and catch a quick bite to eat at the American Express Bakery (022 2642 2857; www.americanexpressbakery.com).
AFTERNOON
Post lunch, stroll by the street-side shops lined along Hill Road. Visit St Peter’s Church and St Andrews’ Church, and then head to Elco Arcade, famed across the city for its shops and the delicious pani puri. Take an auto rickshaw to Linking Road, located a little ahead, for some more roadside shopping, and then to the Carter Road promenade for a pleasant evening stroll along the walkway. Grab a spot to relax here for a while, and pause to watch the breathtaking view of the sun setting into the Arabian Sea. Visit one of the nearby cafés, and round up the evening with a steaming cup of masala chai.
Places to Shop
1. Elco Arcade
Hill Rd, Bandra West • Open 11am–10:30pm daily
An immensely popular market perpetually thronged by shoppers who come here for the multitude of accessories and clothing varieties on offer, and also for the delicious street food sold around here.
2. Hill Rd
Bandra West • Open 11am–10pm daily
A paradise for shopaholics, Hill Rd is home to an assortment of colourful street-side shops where one can expect to find cheap bargains. Choose from among piles of snazzy clothes, jewellery, cosmetics and footwear.
3. Linking Rd
Opposite R D National College, Bandra West • Open 10:30am–10pm daily
A bustling street (see Linking Road) with numerous designer boutiques, high-end stores such as Tommy Hilfiger, Zara and Forever New, and also street vendors selling inexpensive products.
4. Infiniti Mall
Link Rd, Andheri West • 022 4244 0000 • Open 10am–11pm daily
A top-rated mall housing the best of designer brands, a food court and a movie theatre.
Being Human store at Infiniti Mall
5. Anokhi
Waterfield Rd, Bandra West • 022 2640 8261 • Open 10:30am–8pm Mon–Sat
A Jaipur-based store, which features Indian clothing in beautiful traditional prints and pastel shades. It also sells a variety of handicrafts, accessories, linen as well as homeware.
6. Lokhandwala Market
Lokhandwala Complex, Andheri West • Open 11am–11pm daily
A lively market with shops lined along both sides of the street. Get everything from thrift finds to expensive clothes and accessories here.
7. Aza
Juhu Tara Rd, near Maneckji Cooper School • 022 2353 0212 • Open 10am–8pm daily • www.azafashions.com
An ideal destination for luxury fashion, Aza curates tasteful apparel and accessories by the best design labels.
8. On My Own (OMO)
Chimbai Rd, Bandra • 022 2641 8140 • Open 11am–8pm Mon–Sat
This home-grown fashion label offers exclusive Indo-Western fusion wear crafted with a quirky aesthetic.
9. Kimaya
Juhu Tara Rd • 989 201 0003 • 10:30am–8pm Mon–Sat
A high-end store in Juhu known for its exceptional designer wear.
10. Grand Hyatt Plaza Mall
Grand Hyatt Hotel, Santacruz East • 022 6676 1234/5
This shopping arcade located inside the upscale Grand Hyatt Hotel features many designer labels and global brands.
Places to Eat & Drink
1. O Pedro
Jet Airways Complex, Bandra East • 022 2653 4700 • Open noon–1am daily • ₹₹
Portuguese-style Goan dishes, along with vegetarian fare are served here.
Chic interiors of O Pedro
2. Bastian
Linking Rd, Bandra West • 022 2642 0145 • Opening hours vary; call ahead • ₹₹₹
A must-visit for the exquisite seafood on offer, Bastian is oft-frequented by the city’s celebrity crowd.
3. La Folie Lab
Hill Rd, Bandra West • 022 3996 7516 • Open 8:30am–11pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am–midnight Sat & Sun • ₹₹
A classy venue (see La Folie Lab) with minimalistic interiors, offering delectable salad bowls, sandwiches, plus sinful desserts.
4. Taj Mahal Tea House
St John Baptist Rd, Bandra West • Open 7:30am–11:30pm daily • www.tajmahalteahouse.com • ₹₹₹
Gourmet teas are served alongside light savoury snacks in an elegant setting at this sophisticated tearoom.
5. Kettle & Keg
14th Rd, Khar • 022 2604 0303 • Open noon–1am daily • ₹₹₹
A delightful café (see Kettle & Keg) serving a range of flavourful and aromatic teas, coffees and desserts.
6. Yauatcha
Raheja Tower, Bandra East • 922 222 2800 • Open noon–1:30am daily • ₹₹₹
This global chain is renowned for its exceptional Cantonese fare.
7. Candies
Pali Hill, Bandra West • 022 2643 0728 • Open 8:30am–10pm Tue–Sun • ₹₹
Mediterranean food, alfresco seating and a playful, relaxed vibe make Candies a local favourite.
8. Gajalee
Hanuman Rd, Vile Parle East • 022 2616 6470 • Open 11:30am–3:30pm & 7–11:30pm daily • ₹₹
A laidback restaurant (see Gajalee) offering terrific seafood cooked using traditional spices and ingredients.
9. Jai Hind
Dr. Ambedkar Rd, Bandra West • 022 2648 3383 • Open 11:30am–4pm & 7:30pm–12:15am Wed–Sun • ₹
An impeccable selection of Goan delicacies are on offer here.
10. Brewbot Taproom
ONGC Colony, Bandra West • 892 883 2032 • Open 4pm–1am daily
Craft beers and global comfort food are the main attraction at Brewbot.