The fertility of the land around Naples is most evident when you taste the produce it brings forth. For contorni (side dishes), peppers, artichokes, aubergine (eggplant), capers, mushrooms and green beans are offered steamed or sautéed. Expect the freshness to have been retained fully, cooked with a touch of garlic, tomato or lemon, and herbs.
This course usually means pasta or rice, but minestre and zuppe (soups) also appear in this category. Great primi to look out for are spaghetti alle vongole veraci (with clams), pasta e fagioli (with beans), fettucine alla puttanesca (egg noodles with tomato, capers, black olives and red pepper) and risotto alla pescatora (rice with seafood).
Main course dishes come in two varieties, mare (sea) and terra (land). Fresh seafood, especially vongole (clams) and cozze (mussels), are popular along the coast. Meat dishes are varied and include polpette (meatballs), salsiccia (sausage) with broccoli and coniglio (rabbit), a speciality on Ischia.
Besides the host of fresh leaves and cherry tomatoes that end up in the wonderful salads (insalata) here, there are two famous cold dishes from the area. The insalata caprese is the essence of simplicity, relying on quality mozzarella di bufala, tomatoes and aromatic basil. Caponata may include marinated aubergine (eggplant), artichoke hearts and capers, with bread to soak up the flavours.
Perhaps it’s the water, or the quality of the flour or yeast used, but Neapolitan pizza is inimitable. It’s spongy, chewy, succulent and melts in your mouth, while the toppings are flavourful and aromatic. Purists insist that it was invented here centuries ago and that the only true pizza is the margherita – tomato, basil and mozzarella cheese, with olive oil.
This category is the area’s strong point. Calamari (squid) are a favourite, as are cozze (mussels) in a variety of presentations. Seppie (cuttlefish) and polipo (octopus) are popular, too, stewed, fried or steamed. Pesce all’acqua pazza (fish in “crazy water”) is a treat – fresh fish stewed in water with tomatoes, garlic and chillies.
Mozzarella di bufala is the signature cheese from the area. The milk of the buffalo has a tangy quality and the cheese a unique smoothness. The smoked version is provola.
The first course may be seafood or marinated fish, a selection of olives and cured meats, bruschetta (toasted bread) with various toppings or prosciutto (ham) with figs or melon, depending on the season.
Many Neapolitan desserts are inspired by their Sicilian cousins, notably delizie, a cream-filled cake, and panna cotta (cooked cream), perhaps topped with fresh fruit. In season, the melon, figs and wild strawberries are unforgettable.
A sfogliatella (pastry filled with ricotta cheese) is a sublime way to start the day, accompanied by a cup of coffee. Other treats include babà (cake soaked in rum and honey) and zeppole (pastry filled with custard and topped with wild cherries).
Campania wines are of a very high quality. Falanghina, Greco di Tufo and Lacryma Christi are reliable names.
Full-bodied reds come from the local Aglianico grape.
Most bars are set up, in summer, to turn out freshly squeezed orange juice and a local version of lemonade.
All major brands are available, but a local Italian favourite is Peroni. If you want draught, ask for alla spina.
Italians enjoy a huge array of mineral waters. A great choice is Ferrarelle – or for something lighter, Uliveto.
Many restaurants produce their own digestive concoctions – pure alcohol with a soothing mixture of spices and flavourings.
Neapolitan-style coffee traditionally comes already sweetened, and it is generally very concentrated.
The usual range of choices is available, but an interesting Italian cola-type drink is Chinotto.
Camomilla (camomile) is considered to be a relaxant, while other herbal teas on offer include menta (peppermint) and tiglio (lime-tree).
The most famous is the lemon liqueur limoncello, which delivers quite a kick.
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