NEAPOLITAN SOUVENIRS

1. Coral and Cameos

The tradition of miniature carvings in stone is an ancient one – the Romans (and their Renaissance imitators) used precious and semiprecious stones, from agate to emerald, as well as layered glass. Today the tradition primarily focuses on gems from the sea. Coral is prized for its rich colours and soft texture, while shells are fashioned into delicate cameos.

2. Handmade Paper and Cards

Amalfi was once home to a thriving paper industry, which features at the Museo della Carta. The tradition is still on display in local shops selling handmade paper, stationery and beautiful journals.

3. Antiques

The region remains one of the great sources for antiques; especially plentiful are Baroque and Rococo furniture, as well as Empire pieces. Antique ceramics, too, are a good buy, notably handpainted tiles.

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Shopping for antiques in Naples

4. Copies of Antiquities

Believe it or not, souvenir stalls outside archaeological sites – notably Pompeii – can be good sources of creditable copies of famous Roman sculptures, but you’ll need to pick through the junk and be prepared to bargain.

5. Ceramics

Ceramics – both copies of traditional designs and original creations – are notable in Capri, Ravello and Vietri.

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A traditional ceramic plate

6. Gouaches

Gouache is a watercolour paint applied to heavy paper that gives a very soft yet vibrant look to the surface of a painting. In the 19th century gouache landscapes of Naples, its bay and Vesuvius were produced in great numbers and many are still available at reasonable prices. These were the postcard souvenirs for Grand Tour visitors, and to the modern eye they evoke a sense of idyllic charm. There are also prints of the more famous scenes.

7. Gold

Italian artisans have been famed for centuries for their goldwork. Neapolitan artists have inherited these traditions since ancient times and local jewellery shops attest to the beauty of their creations. All gold used is at least 18 carat and prices are comparable with those in other countries, while the quality is higher. Head for Borgo degli Orefici, the Goldsmiths’ District.

8. Nativity Figures

For centuries Naples has been internationally noted for its production of figures for nativity scenes, many produced by the very best sculptors, especially in the 18th century, and reproduced to this day by skilled artisans whose botteghe (workshops) line the streets of the old town. A popular secular figure, done in a variety of media, including terracotta, papier mâché, wood, or a combination of materials, is Pulcinella. There are also delightful puppets, dolls and masks.

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Figures depicting a nativity scene

9. Handmade Sandals, Capri

There are a number of cobblers (see Sandalmakers, Capri) on the island of Capri who will make made-to-measure sandals within a matter of hours.

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Cobbler crafting sandals, Capri

10. Intarsio, Sorrento

Renowned for centuries for its gorgeous intarsio (marquetry), Sorrento continues the tradition to this day, and some of the pieces are true works of art.

TOP 10 MARKETS

1. La Pignasecca, Naples

prac_info Via Pignasecca • Open 8am–8pm daily

One of Naples’ oldest markets and as cheap as it gets.

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A shop at La Pignasecca

2. Poggioreale

prac_info Via M di Caramanico • Open 6:30am–2pm Fri–Mon

Naples’ largest market has piles of everything, especially shoes.

3. San Pasquale, Naples

prac_info Via S Pasquale • Open 8am–2pm Mon, Wed, Fri–Sat

Spices, fish, clothing and jewellery.

4. Ippodromo di Agnano, Naples

prac_info Via Raffaele Ruggiero 1 • Open 6am–2pm Sun

Classic flea market of second-hand items, antiques and knick-knacks.

5. Atignano, Naples

prac_info Via Luca Giordano, Vomero • Open 7am–2pm Mon–Sat

Household items.

6. Fuorigrotta, Naples

prac_info Via Metastasio • Open 7am–2pm Mon–Sat

Food, household items and more.

7. Porta Nolana, Naples

prac_info Piazza Nolana • Open 8am–2pm daily

Chaotic fish market.

8. Resina, Ercolano

prac_info Via Pugliano • Open 8am–1pm daily

Roman “antiques”.

9. La Fiera di Icaro, Naples

prac_info Via Antica di Chiaiano, 1A • Open 7am–2pm Sat

As much trash as treasure.

10. Posillipo

prac_info Viale Virgilio • Open 7am–3pm Thu

Clothing, shoes and bags.

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