OLD TOWN

Prague’s heart is a layered cake of history: the oldest of its buildings have double cellars, owing to a flood-prevention programme that buried the original streets 3 m (10 ft) beneath those that exist today. Architecturally, it embraces every epoch, from the Romanesque to the Brutalist style of the mid-1970s Kotva department store. Historically, the burghers of the Old Town (Staré Město) were ill at ease with the castle district, and vice versa, with the town being a bastion of Protestant feistiness. The Old Town is still livelier than Malá Strana and Hradčany, with cafés, clubs, restaurants and theatres that provide entertainment around the clock.

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1. Old Town Square

Over the centuries, this now peaceful square (see Old Town Square) at the heart of the city has witnessed hundreds of executions, political capitulations and, more recently of course, riotous ice-hockey celebrations, a sport about which the Czechs are fanatical. Today, the action is more likely to come from the crowds of tourists and Praguers, enjoying a coffee or a mug of beer at one of the numerous pavement cafés. Dominated by the splendid Church of Our Lady before Týn, the square is always buzzing; in winter and summer, it’s a wonderful place to watch the world go by.

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Old Town Square

2. Municipal House

prac_info Náměstí Republiky 5 • Tours: 222 002101 • Adm • www.obecnidum.cz

National Revival artist Alfons Mucha was one of many to lend his talents to the Municipal House (Obecní dům), Prague’s star Art Nouveau attraction. One of its most beautiful and striking features is Karel Špillar’s mosaic above the main entrance, entitled Homage to Prague. It also has a firm place in history as it was from the Municipal House that Czechoslovakia was declared an independent state in 1918. Today, it is home to restaurants, cafés, exhibition halls, shops and the Prague Symphony Orchestra at the Smetana Hall.

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Municipal House

3. Powder Gate

prac_info Náměstí Republiky • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–10pm (Oct & Mar: to 8pm; Nov–Feb: to 6pm) • Adm • en.muzeumprahy.cz

In the 15th century, King Vladislav II laid the cornerstone for this tower at the city’s eastern gate, intended to complement the Royal Court nearby. The name of this monument comes from its 17th-century role as a gunpowder store. The tower was damaged during Prussian attacks in 1757. The Neo-Gothic façade seen today, with its ornate sculptural decoration, dates from 1876.

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Powder Gate

4. Celetná

The medieval route from the silver-mining town of Kutná Hora in Bohemia passed down the street known today as Celetná, through Old Town Square and on to Prague Castle. There is still a lot of traffic on the gently curving street today.

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Traditional house sign, Celetná

5. Basilica of St James

prac_info Malá Štupartská 6 • Open 9:30am–noon & 2–4pm daily (except Mon & during Mass) • praha.minorite.cz

The Gothic and Baroque interior wins the award for Prague’s creepiest sanctuary. The church, founded in 1232 by Wenceslas I, is best known for the legend of the mummified arm (see One-Armed Thief) hanging above the door, but don’t miss one of the organ recitals held here (see Basilica of St James).

6. Clementinum

prac_info Křížovnická 190, Mariánské náměstí 5 & Karlova 1 • 733 129252 • Open 10am–5pm daily (to 6pm Fri & Sat); concerts from 6pm daily (Nov–May: from 5pm) • Adm • www.klementinum.com

Built in the mid-17th century as a Jesuit college, the Clementinum now houses the National Library. Astronomer Johannes Kepler discovered the laws of planetary motion atop the Astronomical Tower. There is a beautiful Baroque library, and the Mirror Chapel hosts various concerts.

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Clementinum

7. Ungelt

Also known as the Týn Courtyard, this was a fortified merchants settlement in the 10th century. The Baroque and Renaissance houses were completely renovated in the early 1990s, creating what is now one of the Old Town’s most charming mercantile centres.

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Buildings within the Ungelt complex

8. Karlova

You will inevitably get lost trying to follow Karlova street from the Old Town Square to Charles Bridge; relax and enjoy the bewildering, twisting alleys crammed with shops and cafés.

9. St Nicholas Cathedral

prac_info Staroměstské náměstí • Open 10am–4pm daily (from noon Sun) • Adm for concerts • www.svmikulas.cz

This Baroque jewel (see St Nicholas Cathedral) started life as a parish church. During World War I, it was used as a garrison church for Czech soldiers. It now belongs to the Hussite Church and also operates as a concert hall.

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St Nicholas Cathedral, Old Town

10. Bethlehem Square

prac_info Chapel: Open 9am–6pm daily • Adm • www.bethlehemchapel.eu

The 15th-century Catholic reformer Jan Hus preached in the reconstructed chapel on the square’s north side. The church was converted into apartments in the 18th century but was lovingly restored to its former state in the 1950s.

PRAGUE’S WALLS AND GATES

Prague’s walls started going up in the 13th century, protecting the new settlement from the distant Tartars. The town was accessible via wall gates. As gradual developments in military technology made walls and moats less effective forms of defence, Praguers found new uses for their fortifications. The broad ramparts became parks, complete with benches, lamps and even cafés. Prague kept the habit of locking its gates at night well into the 19th century, however.

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Powder Gate detail

A STROLL AROUND THE OLD TOWN

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MORNING

After breakfast at the Municipal House café, take a guided tour of the building, then go and climb the Powder Gate next door for the views before the caffeine wears off.

Wander down Celetná, ducking through the arcade to Štupartská and the Basilica of St James. If you have at least 45 minutes before the top of the hour, make your way through the Ungelt courtyard to the Old Town Square. Join a tour of the Old Town Hall and get a backstage view of the Apostles’ show on the Astronomical Clock. Otherwise, spend some time shopping in the Ungelt, then join the crowd below the clock outside to see the spectacle.

For lunch, head slightly out of the square to Pasta Fresca for delicious Italian fare.

AFTERNOON

Return to the Old Town Square and do a quick circumnavigation, then enter the meandering turns of Karlova and wander leisurely past the area’s old buildings before turning south to reach Bethlehem Square. Take a tour of the lovely Bethlehem Chapel. If you’d like a little break, have a beer at the legendary pub U Zlatéhotygra, a three-minute walk north, then retrace your steps to Karlova to visit the Clementinum.

After freshening up, take in a concert or a performance at the theatre. Curtains go up around 7:30pm, so it is sensible to dine afterwards.

Shops

1. Blue Praha

prac_info Malé náměstí 14

A dazzlingly different kind of glass shop (see Blue) stocking modern, fun and quirky designs in bowls, knick-knacks, t-shirts and other tourist fare.

2. Moser

prac_info Staroměstské náměstí 15

Classic crystal and cut-glass objects produced by this well-known manufacturer. Even if you’re not interested in a large vase or a crystal hedgehog, it’s worth a look around.

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Glass being blown at Moser

3. Palladium

prac_info Náměstí Republiky 1 • www.palladiumpraha.cz

One of the most popular shopping destinations in downtown Prague, Palladium has 200 shops offering exciting shopping and dining experiences to visitors.

4. Erpet Bohemia Crystal

prac_info Staroměstské náměstí 27

Located right across the Astronomical Clock, this megastore Bohemian crystal has an exclusive collection of Bohemian crystal, art glass, fine costume jewelery, crystal figurines and much more. Friendly and attentive staff.

5. Material

prac_info Týn 1, Ungelt

Czech tradition in designer crystal and glassware gets a modern makeover at this shop in the Ungelt courtyard. Admire the eye-catching stemware, vases, dishes and candle-holders, all presented in a space that fuses classical and modern design.

6. Botanicus

prac_info Týn 2 & 3

The store’s all-natural health and beauty products are produced at a “historic village” east of Prague; enquire about tours. Herbs, oils and other seasonings are also sold here (see Botanicus).

7. Manufaktura

prac_info Melantrichova 17

This is a one-stop shop (see Manufaktura) for your small souvenir needs, including Czech folk crafts and traditional wooden toys. In addition to these items, there are also naturally made cosmetics and toiletries featuring an odd assortment of ingredients, such as Czech beer, wine and thermal salt.

8. Art Deco

prac_info Michalská 21

Come here (see Art Deco) for a range of goods including handbags, jewellery, ceramics, glassware and vintage clothing inspired by the early 20th century.

9. Český Porcelán

prac_info Perlová 1

Bohemian porcelain might not be as prestigious as Bohemian crystal, but it makes a pretty souvenir or present.

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Porcelain jug at Český Porcelán

10. Hračky U zlatého lva

prac_info Celetná 32

Kids will appreciate and enjoy the range of traditional wooden toys and other board games here (see Hračky U zlatého lva).

9. Století

prac_info Karolíny Světlé 21 • 222 220008 • TT

Enjoy dishes named after Czech artists, writers and singers in a simple but stylish dining room. The menu includes a good list of vegetarian options.

10. Plzeňská restaurace Obecní dům

prac_info Náměstí Republiky 5 • 222 002780 • TT

Classic Czech dishes are served in a lively setting here (see Plzeňská restaurace Obecní dům). The extensive à la carte menu features dishes such as roast duck and grilled ribs.

PRICE CATEGORIES

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.


TT under Kč500 TT Kč500–Kč1,000 TT over Kč1,000

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