Baeza and Ubeda
These two Jaén Province towns, only 9 km (5.5 miles) apart, are like matching jewel boxes overflowing with Renaissance architectural treasure, and so were awarded the title of UNESCO Word Heritage Sites in 2003. Of the two, quiet Baeza has managed to stay almost completely out of the modern age, while Úbeda is now a thriving town with many seasonal attractions. Nevertheless, its stunning historic district is, if anything, even more spectacular than Baeza’s.
Baeza
Tourist Information Office • Casa del Pópulo, Plaza del Pópulo • 953 77 99 82 • www.todosobrebaeza.com • Open 9am–7:30pm Mon–Fri; 9:30am–3pm Sat & Sun
Úbeda
Tourist Information Office • Palacio del Marqués de Contadero, C/Baja del Marqués 4 • 953 77 92 04 • Open 9am–7:30pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–3pm Sat, Sun & hols
1. Puerta de Jaen, Baeza
This section of the ancient wall, the Jaén Gate, supports an additional arch with coats-of-arms set above.
2. Plaza del Populo, Baeza
The town’s most charming area, the Plaza del Pópulo, is surrounded by Renaissance edifices. It is also called the Square of the Lions, after its fountain, which sports four stone lions and a female figure.
3. Plaza Santa Maria & Catedral, Baeza
This square is fronted by several glorious 16th-century structures, including the cathedral. One of the many masterpieces by Renaissance architect Andrés de Vandelvira, it was originally a Gothic church, built over a mosque in the 13th century.
4. Palacio de Jabalquinto, Baeza
One of the most unusually decorated palaces in town is the 15th-century Palacio de Jabalquinto. Its façade is sprinkled with coats of arms and stone studs in Isabelline Plateresque style.
5. Paseo de la Constitucion, Baeza
Here the 16th-century Alhóndiga (Corn Exchange) has an elegant façade with three-tiered arches, while the Torre de los Aliatares is an ancient remnant of the old wall.
6. Plaza de Vazquez de Molina, Ubeda
In this square the Capilla del Salvador, built by Vandelvira, marks a high point in the Spanish Renaissance.
7. Plaza del Primero de Mayo, Ubeda
The variety of riches here includes the Iglesia de San Pablo, displaying an array of styles, the 15th-century Casa Mudéjar, now an archaeological museum, and the 16th-century Ayuntamiento Viejo, with its superb arcades.
8. The Pottery Quarter, Ubeda
Passing through the Puerta del Losal, a splendid 13th-century Mudéjar gate, takes you into the town’s age-old pottery quarter. Ceramic artists renowned all over Spain and beyond ply their ancient trade here.
9. Plaza San Pedro, Ubeda
Visit the patio of the Real Monasterio de Santa Clara, the town’s oldest church, where the sisters will sell you their distinctly Arabic dulces (sweetcakes). The Palacio de la Rambla is another graceful Vandelvira creation and is now home to a small luxury hotel.
10. Plaza San Lorenzo, Ubeda
The Casa de las Torres has a Plateresque façade, flanked by two vast square towers and with gargoyles on the cornice. The Church of San Lorenzo is unique in that its façade is on the parapet of the old wall.
Architecture of the Spanish Renaissance
Spanish Renaissance architecture divides into three periods: Plateresque, Classical High Renaissance and Herrerean. The first refers to the carved detailing on silverwork (platero means silversmith), a carry-over from the late Gothic style popular under Queen Isabel (Isabelline Plateresque). The High Renaissance style is noted for its symmetry and its Greco-Roman imagery. Herrerean works are very sobre, practically devoid of decoration.
Tip: Baeza’s Restaurante Juanito, Avda del Alcalde Puché Pardo 57, 953 74 00 40, €30–€40 is a fabulous place to try regional food. In Úbeda, enjoy a drink in the courtyard of the fabulous Parador Condestable Dávalos . Tip: The Úbeda potters are all located along Calle Valencia; look for the workshops of the premier ceramists, the Tito family.
