Gianicolo

Saunter around arm-in-arm in this elegant park and take in a traditional puppet show, perhaps buy a puppet or two and check out the carousel. But most of all, enjoy the views, considered by many to be the best in the city. If you happen to be here at noon, get ready for a shock when the cannon booms – a daily routine (see Gianicolo).

Pincio

These gardens are the other most famous view of Rome, much cherished by Romantic writers since the early 19th century, when the gardens were designed by Giuseppe Valadier. If the exclusive Casina Valadier café/restaurant should be open for business, no place is more romantic for a drink or a meal (see Villa Borghese).

Rose and Orange Gardens, Parco Savello

The public Rose Gardens are a gracious, fragrant place to stroll in season, and then make your way on up the hill to the Orange Garden, where you can relax under umbrella pines and enjoy the view of the river, Trastevere and St Peter’s. Take the ancient Clivo di Rocca Savella back down the hill.

Villa Borghese

A huge park with innumerable fountains, benches, shady lanes, niches and glades. But by far the most appealing activity is taking a rowboat out on the lake, around the island with its Classical temple (see Villa Borghese).

Dom Champagneria

Set in a 400-year-old palazzo in the hills between Via Nazionale and Via Cavour, this thoroughly modern late-night cocktail bar specializes in champagnes and regional Italian wines. Live music adds to the atmosphere and there are themed movie nights for film lovers. This is a great place to while away the evening and mingle with an eclectic crowd.

• Via degli Zingari 49

• 06 4542 6401

• Closed Mon

• €

Jet Set

Believe it or not, the Fascist complex of EUR has a truly charming restaurant with huge picture windows overlooking the lake, where during the day you can watch boaters go by and the ducks paddle about. The food is simple but is as elegant as its surroundings. There is a disco here at weekends (see Jet Set, EUR).

Campidoglio by Night

With the subtle yet dramatic lighting, the three palaces on this hill take on an almost magical beauty at night (see Musei Capitolini). Make your way up the gentle incline, circumambulate the piazza once or twice, then head across and down to imbibe the vision of the Roman Forum and Colosseum, which are also evocatively floodlit.

Trevi Fountain

Too often thronged with tourists, yet the sheer beauty and power of this creation are nevertheless overwhelming, day or night. It’s also a perfect opportunity to make any wishes you may have in mind, the more romantic the better. Have some coins ready for tossing in – backwards, of course – to ensure your return to Rome (see Trevi Fountain).

Appia Way on a Sunday

One day a week, part of the old Via Appia Antica is closed to all traffic except tour buses, making it perfect for a bucolic bike ride, or a very long walk if you want to cover it all. Lined with pines and cypresses, this is where the ancient Romans came to bury their dead, and many tombs still remain along the roadside (see Via Appia Antica).

Gelato at Tre Scalini

A triple-chocolate bomb with a cherry in the middle and topped with whipped cream is the famous tartufo produced by this café. If you get it “to go”, it’s a bargain, but it’s probably more romantic to sit inside and share one – as long as you don’t fight over the cherry (see Tre Scalini).