The Vatican is the world’s smallest nation, covering just 50 ha (120 acres), and is a theocracy of just over 550 citizens, headed by the Pope, but its sightseeing complex is beyond compare. Within its wall are the ornate St Peter’s Basilica, the astonishing Sistine Chapel, lush gardens, apartments frescoed by Fra’ Angelico, Raphael and Pinturicchio, and some 10 museums. The latter, detailed on these pages, include collections of Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities; Paleochristian, Renaissance and modern art; and a world-class ethnographic collection.
Museums and Sistine Chapel
St Peter’s Basilica
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Museum GuideThe Vatican Museums (a 15-minute walk around the Vatican walls from St Peter’s) are made up of 10 collections plus the Sistine Chapel and papal apartments. To see highlights only, first visit the Pinacoteca, to the right of the entrance turnstile. The Sistine and other collections are to the left. |
Plan of Vatican City
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Sistine Chapel
Michelangelo’s ceiling is one of the most spectacular works of art in the world (see Sistine Chapel Works).
Raphael Rooms
Raphael decorated Julius II’s apartments between 1508 and 1520. The Stanza della Segnatura features the School of Athens, a convention of ancient philosophers bearing portraits of Renaissance artists such as Leonardo da Vinci as bearded Plato in the centre.
Apollo Belvedere
This Roman copy of a 4th-century BC Greek statue is considered a model of physical beauty. It inspired Bernini’s Apollo in Galleria Borghese.
Raphael’s Transfiguration
Raphael was labouring on this gargantuan masterpiece (1517–20) when he died at 37, leaving students to finish the base. It depicts Christ appearing to the Apostles in divine glory.
Chapel of Nicholas V
The Vatican’s hidden gem is this closet-sized chapel colourfully frescoed (1447–50) with early martyrs by Fra’ Angelico.
Caravaggio’s Deposition
Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro technique accentuates a diagonal composition (1604) filled with peasant figures and grisly realism.
Belvedere Torso
The highly crafted, bulging muscles of this 1st-century BC torso of the god Hercules were regularly used as a prime sketching model for Michelangelo and many other Renaissance masters.
Leonardo da Vinci’s St Jerome
Sketchy and unfinished – Leonardo was often a distracted genius – this 1482 painting is nevertheless an anatomical masterpiece.
Plan of the Sistine Chapel
Adam and Eve
God imparts the spark of life to Adam in one of western art’s most famous scenes, then pulls Eve from Adam’s rib.
Creation
God separates darkness from light, water from land and creates the Sun and Moon. Michelangelo veers towards blasphemy by depicting God’s dirty feet.
The Sacrifice, Flood, and Drunkenness of Noah
After disassembling his scaffolding and gazing from floor level, Michelangelo noticed that these three tumultuous scenes were too minutely drawn.
Last Judgment
This vast work identifies saints by their medieval icons: Catharine with her wheel, Bartholomew with the knife which flayed him.
Sibyls and Prophets
Hebrew prophets, including Jonah shying away from the whale, mingle with the Sibyls who foretold Christ’s coming.
Old Testament Salvation Scenes and Ancestors of Christ
Portraits from Jesus’s family tree are above the windows, and bloody Salvation scenes, including David and Goliath, are on corner spandrels.
Life of Christ Scenes
The chapel’s right wall stars Botticelli’s Cleansing of the Leper, Ghirlandaio’s Calling of Peter and Andrew, as well as Perugino’s work.
Giving the Keys to St Peter
Classical buildings form the backdrop to this pivotal scene of transferring power from Christ to the popes. Each scene is divided into three parts.
Life of Moses Scenes
Left wall highlights include Botticelli's Burning Bush and Signorelli and della Gatta’s Moses Giving his Rod to Joshua.
Botticelli’s Punishment of the Rebels
Schismatics question Aaron’s priestly prerogative to burn incense. A vengeful Moses opens the earth to swallow them.
The Sistine’s frescoes are not merely decorations by some of the greatest Renaissance artists – the images tell a story and make a complex theological argument. Pope Sixtus IV commissioned wall frescoes for the Pope’s Chapel in 1481–83. They were intended to underscore papal authority, in question at the time, by drawing a line of power from God to the pope. In the Life of Moses cycle, Moses’ and Aaron’s undisputed roles as God’s chosen representatives are affirmed by the fate of those who oppose Aaron – significantly and anachronistically wearing a papal hat – in the Punishment of the Rebels. Directly across from this work, Perugino’s Giving the Keys to St Peter bridges the Old Testament with the New as Christ hands control of the church to St Peter – and therefore to his successors, the popes (who are pictured between the Sistine windows). Michelangelo’s ceiling (1508–12) later added Genesis, Redemption and Salvation to the story.
Top 10 Painters of the Sistine ChapelPlan of St Peter’s Basilica
Pietà
Michelangelo carved this masterpiece (see Michelangelo's Pietà) in 1499 at the age of 25. It is at once graceful and mournful, stately and ethereal. It has been protected by glass since 1972, when a man screaming “I am Jesus Christ!” attacked it with a hammer, damaging the Virgin’s nose and fingers.
Michelangelo’s Pietà
The Dome
When Michelangelo designed a dome to span St Peter’s massive transept, he made it 42 m (138 ft) in diameter, in deference to the Pantheon’s 43.3-m (142-ft) dome. You can ride an elevator much of the way, but must still navigate the final 330 stairs between the dome’s inner and outer shell to the 132-m-high (435-ft) lantern and sweeping vistas across the city.
The Dome
Piazza San Pietro
Bernini’s remarkable semi-elliptical colonnades transformed the basilica’s approach into a pair of welcoming arms embracing the faithful (see Piazza San Pietro). Sadly, the full effect of entering the square from a warren of medieval streets was spoiled when Mussolini razed the neighbourhood to lay down pompous Via della Conciliazione. The obelisk came from Alexandria.
Baldacchino
Whether you view it as ostentatious or glorious, Bernini’s huge altar canopy is at least impressive. Its spiralling bronze columns are claimed to have been made from the revetments (portico ceiling decorations) of the Pantheon, taken by Pope Urban VIII. For his desecration of the ancient temple the Barberini pope and his family (see Palazzo Barberini) were castigated with the waggish quip: “What even the barbarians wouldn’t do, Barberini did.”
Baldacchino
Treasury
Among the ecclesiastical treasures here is a 6th-century, jewel-encrusted bronze cross (the Crux Vaticana), various fragments of the medieval basilica including a ciborium by Donatello (1432), and Antonio Pollaiuolo’s masterful bronze slab tomb (1493) for Sixtus IV, the pope’s effigy surrounded by representations of theological virtues and liberal arts.
Apse
Bernini’s exuberantly Baroque stained-glass window (1666) centres on a dove representing the Holy Ghost, surrounded by rays of the sun and a riot of sculptural details. Beneath the window sits the Chair of St Peter (1665), another Bernini concoction; inside is a wood and ivory chair said to be the actual throne of St Peter. Bernini also crafted the multicoloured marble Monument to Urban VIII (1644) to the right, based on Michelangelo’s Medici tombs in Florence. It is of far better artistic quality than Giuglielmo della Porta’s similar one for Pope Paul III (1549) to the left.
Crypt
Many of the medieval basilica’s monuments are housed beneath the basilica’s floor. During excavations in the 1940s workers discovered in the Necropolis the legendary Red Wall behind which St Peter was supposedly buried. The wall was covered with early medieval graffiti invoking the saint, and a box of bones was found behind it. The late Pope John Paul II is buried in the crypt.
Alexander VII’s Monument
One of Bernini’s last works (1678) shows figures of Justice, Truth, Chastity and Prudence gazing up at the pontiff seated in the deep shadows of the niche. A skeleton crawls from under the flowing marble drapery to hold aloft an hourglass as a reminder of mortality.
Central Piers
Until modern times, a church was measured by its relics. St Peter’s Basilica houses the spear of St Longinius, which jabbed Jesus’s side on the Cross, St Veronica’s handkerchief bearing Christ’s face, and a fragment of the True Cross.
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