Pizzeria da Baffetto

The best pizza in Rome, but this pizzeria is open only for dinner and, beyond pizza, only serves bruschetta and other simple appetizers (see Eating and Drinking Tips). The thin-crust, wood-oven pizzas come either piccola (small) or grande (large).

• Via del Governo Vecchio 114

• 06 686 1617

Pizzeria da Ivo

The most famous pizzeria in Trastevere, definitely discovered by the tourist crowds, but local fans never let them take it over completely. The pizza is great, but skip the other second-rate main meals (see Pizzeria da Ivo).

Pizzeria da Ricci

This Liberty-style pizzeria, in the Ricci family since 1905, is hidden away on a quiet dead-end street off Via Nazionale. The pizzas are tiny (many people order two) but excellent; complement them with the sweet northern Lazio white wine Est! Est! Est!, after which the place is nicknamed.

• Via Genova 32

• 06 488 1107

• Closed Mon

• €

Pizzeria dar Poeta

There’s a merry war between ultra thin-crust Roman pizza and thicker, chewier Neapolitan pizza. Dar Poeta goes its own road, letting the dough rise a full day (rather than the usual hour), resulting in a thin yet light and airy pie loaded down with the freshest of toppings. Tucked into a quiet Trastevere side street, with tables out front and an air-conditioned brick-walled dining room (see Pizzeria dar Poeta).

Pizzeria da Vittorio

Vittorio Martini’s unassuming little place with its wood beams and a few tables on the cobblestones out front serves fantastic Neapolitan-style pizza, courtesy of award-winning pizzaiolo Angelo Jezzi. The mixed antipasti plate is generous and a great bargain (see Pizzeria da Vittorio).

Acchiappafantasmi

The award-winning pizza is shaped vaguely like a ghost with olives for eyes at this restaurant (the pizzeria’s name means “ghostbusters”). A half-dozen Calabrese snacks are also available. The service can be slow.

• Via dei Cappellari 66

• 06 687 3462

• Closed Mon, Tue–Fri L

• €

PizzaRé

Roman mini-chain serving thicker, Neapolitan-style wood oven pies. Cheap lunch menus include cover charge, drink, and a pizza, a pasta, or a roast meat dish.

• Via di Ripetta 14

• 06 321 1468

• €

Gaudì

Thick Neapolitan-style pizza in a modern room or on the roof terrace, with red lamps to click on for rapid service. Lots of pastas and desserts as well. No bookings and long queues, so arrive early.

• Via R Giovannelli 8–12

• 06 884 5451

• Closed Sat & Sun L

• €

Panattoni “L’Obitorio”

This Trastevere institution’s nickname (“the morgue”) refers to the chilly effect of the marble that sheathes the walls and acts as tabletops. The reception is as warm as the decor is cold, however, and the Roman pizza as excellent as the supplì al telefono (fried rice balls with a melted mozzarella heart that makes a long “telephone” cord when you pull them apart). Open late.

• Viale Trastevere 53

• 06 580 0919

• Closed Wed, L

• No credit cards

• €

Pizzeria La Montecarlo

Late opening hours have kept this simple Roman-style pizzeria packed with locals and students for years (see Pizzeria La Montecarlo).