Alexanderplatz

This is definitely Rome’s premier jazz venue. The management regularly books first-rate international talent as well as local musicians, and it serves excellent food, too. Advance reservations are highly recommended (see Alexanderplatz).

Le Coppelle

A long-standing hub of flashy dressers and socialites, there’s also a comfortable come-as-you-are feeling at this buzzing cocktail bar with a sophisticated wine list and expert mixology. Low tables spill out onto the piazza.

• Piazza delle Coppelle 52

Jonathan’s Angels

A must-see for its outlandish decor, which was the brainchild of the proprietor Jonathan, a former circus performer and also the artist. Taking a cue from his Baroque forbears, he’s covered practically every square inch of the place with squirming colour. There’s a piano bar and floor shows (see Jonathan’s Angels).

Big Mama

Trastevere’s historic jazz, blues, rhythm and blues and world music standby, with different acts performing every night. Membership is by the month or year, but unfortunately Friday and Saturday night concerts are open only to those with annual memberships (see Big Mama).

Fiddler’s Elbow

One of the oldest Irish pubs in Rome and still going strong, frequented by both locals and out-of-towners. Italians seem to love everything Irish and the place really reels when some impromptu fiddlers get going.

• Via dell’Olmata 43

Trinity College

Rather like entering a time-warp that lands you up in Ireland. A warm, inviting two-floor place that can get very noisy and packed, but always stays cheerful. A very eclectic menu of simple, tempting fare available until 1am, and brunch on Sunday (see Trinity College).

La Vineria

This historic wine bar is an established favourite with the locals. Smoky and definitely cosy during the winter, but spilling out onto the Campo de’ Fiori in the summer. Prices for wine and beer are low, especially if you stand at the bar, and there are a few well -chosen snacks (see La Vineria).

Bar della Pace

For those who crave most of all to see and be seen, this is the place to drape your designer-clad self, especially on warm summer evenings when you can pose unashamed at an outdoor table. In the winter, it’s a cosier, less self-conscious local favourite, although it’s always pretty pricey, as are most places in the Piazza Navona area.

• Via della Pace 5

Rock Castle Café

This groovy hangout has a dungeon-themed, cavernous decor and is mostly frequented by foreign students. A fun atmosphere, with good rock music and a bit of dancing late at night, right in the heart of the Ghetto (see Rock Castle Café).

Les Affiches

This beloved Trastevere jazz joint moved across the bridge and got a fancy makeover. The club hosts contemporary art exhibitions as well as live music in a modern and airy setting. There’s always something unexpected happening here, including live jam sessions. The club is open until dawn and serves an excellent brunch at weekends.

• Via di Santa Maria dell’ Anima 52

• 06 686 8986