Around the Pantheon

During the Roman Empire the Tiber Bend area was a public training ground for soldiers called the Campo Marzio. With Rome’s fall, the city turned its back on this riverside neighbourhood and, aside from a few foreign settlements, it wasn’t until the 15th century that anything other than a few churches was built here. The Baroque boom gave the area’s palaces their distinctive look. Mussolini cleaned up the neighbourhood in the 1920s and 1930s to bring out its ancient character. He cleared away the debris surrounding Augustus’s Mausoleum, reassembled the Ara Pacis and surrounded the lot with reviled Fascist buildings, complete with self-aggrandizing bas-reliefs.

Recycled Temples

Romans are ingenious recyclers. The Pantheon became a church, Hadrian’s Temple a stock exchange; San Clemente was built atop a temple to Mithras, Santa Maria sopra Minerva one to Minerva. In the 11th century, the walls of San Lorenzo in Miranda in the Forum and San Nicola in Carcere on Via Teatro di Marcello were both grafted onto temple columns.


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Sights
  1. The Pantheon

    “Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime” – even Lord Byron struggled to find words to express this marvel of ancient Roman architecture, the only ancient Roman temple to survive the millennia virtually intact (see The Pantheon).

    Relieving arches, Pantheon
  2. Santa Maria sopra Minerva

    The only truly Gothic church in Rome, possibly built, as the name suggests, atop a temple to Minerva. Michelangelo’s Risen Christ (1514–21) is a muscular rendition of the Saviour so shockingly nude that church officials added the bronze wisp of drapery. Filippino Lippi frescoed the last chapel on the right; the lower scene on the right wall includes portraits of young Giovanni and Giulio de’ Medici (known as Popes Leo X and Clement VII), who are buried in tombs by Antonio Sangallo the Younger, in the apse, with Fra’ Angelico and (most of) St Catherine of Siena (see Santa Maria sopra Minerva).

    • Piazza della Minerva

    • Open 7:10am–7pm Mon–Sat, 8am–noon, 2–7pm Sun

    • Free

    • DA

    Nave, Santa Maria sopra Minerva
  3. Galleria Doria Pamphilj

    The best of the private collection galleries in Rome. In addition to paintings by Rubens, Correggio, Tintoretto, Carracci and Brueghel, star works include Caravaggio’s Mary Magdalene, Rest on the Flight into Egypt, and Young St John the Baptist (a copy he made of his Capitoline version); Titian’s Salome with the Head of John the Baptist; and Bernini’s bust of Pope Innocent X (see Galleria Doria Pamphilj).

  4. Ara Pacis

    Augustus Caesar built this “Altar of Peace” between 13 BC and 9 BC to celebrate the famed pax romana (Roman peace) he instituted – largely by subjugating most of Western Europe, the Levant and North Africa. Fragments of the altar were excavated over several centuries, and in the 1920s Mussolini placed the reconstituted Ara Pacis by Augustus’s Mausoleum. The altar is now housed in a Richard Meier-designed museum, the first modern structure to rise in the centre of Rome in 70 years.

    • Piazza Augusto Imperatore & Lungo­tevere Augusta

    • 060608

    • Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun

    • Adm €6.50

    • www.arapacis.it

    Marcus Agrippa, Ara Pacis
  5. Sant’Ignazio di Loyola

    When the Jesuits’ new Baroque church was finished in 1685, it still lacked a dome. Master of trompe-l’oeil Andrea Pozzo used his flawless technique to create the illusion of an airy dome on the flat circle of ceiling over the church’s crossing; stand on the yellow marble disc for the full effect, then walk directly under the “dome” to see how skewed the painting actually is. Pozzo also painted the nave vault with the lovely Glory of Sant’Ignazio.

    • Piazza di S Ignazio

    • Open 7:30am–12:30pm, 3–7:15pm daily

    • Free

    Piazza Sant’Ignazio

  6. Column of Marcus Aurelius

    Trajan’s Column was such a success (see Trajan's Markets) that this 29.5-m (97-ft) one was erected in AD 180–93 to honour the military career of Marcus Aurelius. The spiral of reliefs celebrates his campaigns against the Germans (169–73) on the bottom and the Sarmatians (174–76) on the top. In 1588, Pope Sixtus V replaced the statues of the emperor and his wife with that of St Paul.

    • Piazza Colonna

    Relief, Column of Marcus Aurelius
  7. Augustus’s Mausoleum

    Augustus built this grand imperial tomb in 27 BC, his ashes later joined by those of emperors Tiberius and Nerva, and worthies such as Agrippa and Marcellus. Barbarian invaders later made off with the urns and locals mined its travertine facing for their palaces. The ancient rotunda has served time as a hanging garden, fortress, circus for bear-baiting, and concert hall. In the 1920s its crown was restored to the ancient style, covered with grass and cypress, and Mussolini laid out the Fascist piazza around it. Major architectural work is planned for this area.

    • Piazza Augusto Imperatore

    • Open by appt only

    • Adm

    Augustus’s Mausoleum
  8. Piazza di Sant’Ignazio

    Francesco Raguzzini laid out this masterpiece of Baroque urban design for the Jesuits in 1727–8, creating piazza carefully planned right down to the ornate iron balconies and matching dusty pink plaster walls.

  9. Bernini’s Elephant Obelisk

    An example of Bernini’s fun-loving side. This baby elephant, carved to the master’s designs by Ercole Ferrata in 1667, carries a miniature 6th-century BC Egyptian obelisk on its back. It is a tongue-in-cheek reference to Carthaginian leader Hannibal’s war elephants, which carried tall siege towers across the Alps to attack the Roman Empire in 218 BC.

    • Piazza della Minerva

  10. Piazza della Rotonda

    The square in front of the Pantheon was filled with a boisterous daily market until 1847; some of the Pantheon’s portico columns still bear square holes from the stall posts once set into them. The square is now filled with tourists, outdoor tables of cafés, and horse-drawn carriages, all ranged around Giacomo della Porta’s 1575 fountain, which supports a tiny Egyptian obelisk dedicated to Ramses II.

    Piazza della Rotonda

A Morning Stroll around the Pantheon

Start with a cappuccino at Caffè Sant’ Eustachio . Follow Salita de’ Crescenzi into Piazza della Rotonda and the stunning beauty of the Pantheon . Head down to Piazza di Minerva, with Bernini’s Elephant Obelisk and the façade of Santa Maria sopra Minerva , hiding masterpieces by Filippino Lippi and Michelangelo inside.

Via S Caterina da Siena becomes Via Pie’ di Marmo (look right to see the famous ancient marble foot). The street spills into the long piazza in front of Galleria Doria Pamphilj . After paying homage to works by Caravaggio, Tintoretto and Bernini continue out the east end of the piazza on Via Lata, then on to the Corso to Santa Maria in Via Lata . Turn left up the Corso to the Baroque Piazza Sant’ Ignazio, backed by Rome’s best trompe-l’oeil frescoes in Sant’Ignazio di Loyola. Work your way behind the square’s mini palaces onto Piazza di Pietra. A narrow alley leads to the Column of Marcus Aurelius. Head to Giolitti for a delicious ice cream.

Walk west on Via del Leone into Piazza Borghese, home to an antiques print market and the Palazzo Borghese . Two blocks north it opens out on to Piazza Augusto Imperatore, home to many churches, Augustus’s Mausoleum and the Ara Pacis. End your morning with lunch at trendy ‘Gusto .

Best of the Rest

  1. Hadrian’s Temple

    Eleven huge, worn columns still stand from a Temple to Hadrian built in AD 145 by his son.

    • Piazza di Pietra 9A

    • Free

    Hadrian’s Temple
  2. Santa Maria Maddalena

    The church is an elliptical Baroque gem. The 1735 façade by Giuseppe Sardi is Rome’s best Rococo monument.

    • Piazza della Maddalena

    • Open 7:30am–noon, 5–8pm Mon–Sat; 9am–12:30pm, 5–8pm Sun

    • Free

  3. Pie’ di Marmo

    This large sandalled marble foot belonged to an unidentified ancient statue.

    • Via S Stefano del Cacco, Via Pie di Marmo

  4. San Lorenzo in Lucina

    Founded in the 5th century, and overhauled in 1090–1118. Guido Reni did the Crucifixion altarpiece, Bernini the second chapel on the right.

    • Piazza S Lorenzo in Lucina

    • Open 9am–8pm daily

    • Free

  5. Palazzo di Montecitorio

    Bernini’s palace has housed Parliament’s Chamber of Deputies since 1871. The south façade is original; the north is Art Nouveau.

    • Piazza di Montecitorio & Piazza del Parlamento

    • 06 676 01

    • Open 10am– 5:30pm 1st Sun of month

    • Free

  6. Piazza di Montecitorio

    The square’s obelisk was once part of the Augustus’s giant sundial, which used to be flanked by the Ara Pacis.

  7. Palazzo Borghese

    The oddly shaped “harpsichord of Rome”, begun by Vignola in 1560, was finished with a Tiber terrace by Flaminio Ponzio.

    • Via Borghese & Via di Ripetta

    • Free

  8. Santa Maria in Via Lata

    Pietro da Cortona designed the façade and vestibule (1660); Bernini the high altar (1639–43). Its 6th-century frescoes are now in the Crypta Balbi.

    • Via del Corso 306

  9. Fontanella del Facchino

    This small wall fountain (probably from the 1570s) is fashioned as a water-seller whose barrel forever spouts fresh water.

    • Via Lata, off Via del Corso

    Fontanella del Facchino
  10. Piazza Sant’Eustachio

    A lovely square, home to two cafés competing for Rome’s “best cappuccino” title, as well as an 1196 bell tower, and an excellent view of Sant’Ivo (see A Morning Stroll around the Pantheon).

Shops

  1. Davide Cenci

    Men’s and women’s clothes designer since 1926. Their own slightly conservative but eminently fashionable line is sold alongside international labels such as Ralph Lauren, Church’s, Brooks Brothers and Fay.

    • Via di Campo Marzio 1–7

    Davide Cenci
  2. Vittorio Bagagli

    Purveyor of fine houseware since 1855, including design-led Alessi kitchen gadgets and Pavoni espresso machines.

    • Via di Campo Marzio 42

  3. M Simotti Rocchi

    Specialist in Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities, selling everything from coins to vases to statuary at a fraction of the prices auction-goers pay (simple coins or terracotta heads start at around €75).

    • Largo Fontanella Borghese 76

  4. Mercato dell’Antiquariato

    Lovely antiquarian market consisting of about 17 stalls specializing in antique prints and books.

    • Piazza Borghese

  5. Città del Sole

    Part of an Italian chain of high-class toy stores with the very best in educational playthings.

    • Via della Scrofa 65

  6. Pane & Company: Forno

    This tiny bakery sells an array of local pastries and sweets. The delicious pistachio biscuits are a house speciality.

    • Via della Stelletta 2

  7. Il Papiro

    Rome branch of the renowned Florentine chain, selling marbled paper products, souvenir pens and calligraphy tools.

    • Via del Pantheon 50

    Il Papiro
  8. Campo Marzio Design

    Here they sell their own line of fountain pens, covered in silver plating, as well as other writing and calligraphy utensils. Beautiful leather-bound notebooks make great presents.

    • Via di Campo Marzio 41

  9. Maria Teresa Nitti Valentini

    This lovely shop sells stunning antique jewellery from the 1800s up to the 1940s, as well as original brooches based on the design of older pieces.

    • Via della Stelletta 4

  10. Amarena Chic

    Stylish women’s shoe shop selling good quality boots and shoes at affordable prices. The unique designs are highly distinctive and are available in a wide selection of colours.

    • Via di Campo Marzio 9

Cafés, Gelaterie and Bars

  1. Giolitti

    This 19th-century landmark café is widely regarded as serving Rome’s best ice cream (see Giolitti).

    • Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40

  2. Caffé Sant’Eustachio

    Another best – this time the best cappuccino. Not surprisingly, the recipe is a closely guarded secret (see Café Sant’Eustachio).

    • Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82

    Caffé Sant’Eustachio
  3. Trinity College

    Ever-popular pub off the Corso, with tasty food served upstairs and standard bar downstairs. Outdoor seating (see Trinity College).

    • Via del Collegio Romano 6

  4. Black Duke

    A passably genuine Irish pub in a cosy basement, with pub food and, in summer, outdoor seating.

    • Via della Maddalena 29B

  5. Gelateria della Palma

    A wide selection of ice cream flavours, just off the Pantheon’s square, and open late (see Gelateria della Palma).

    • Via della Maddalena 20–23

    Gelateria della Palma
  6. La Tazza d’Oro

    Rome’s “House of Coffee” since 1946. This is a die-hard locals’ joint, serving what devotees swear is Rome’s best coffee (see La Tazza d’Oro).

    • Via degli Orfani 84

  7. Enoteca al Parlamento

    Atmospheric and stylish wine bar frequented by politicos from the nearby Italian parliament buildings.

    • Via dei Prefetti 15

  8. Capranica

    This wine bar-cum-restaurant is just the place for a quick aperitivo or a more leisurely alfresco lunch. The impressively bottle-lined interior shows that this is a serious wine bar with a well-stocked cellar offering a great choice of labels.

    • Piazza Capranica 99

  9. Cremeria Monteforte

    A prime tourist position (next to the Pantheon) doesn’t always sound the death knell. This joint guarded by a wooden Pinocchio doorman serves the best fragola (strawberry) ice cream in town and interesting variations such as orange chocolate.

    • Via della Rotonda 22

  10. Pascucci

    This is the place with the frothiest milk shakes and smoothies in town. They come in all flavours and in any combination.

    • Via di Torre Argentina 20

Places to Eat

  1. L’Eau Vive

    Amid 16th-century frescoes, lay sisters from around the world dressed in native costume serve refined French cuisine and dishes from their own countries. Everyone sings “Ave Maria of Lourdes” before their crêpes flambées. Perhaps a little kitsch but all the profits do go to charity.

    • Via Monterone 85

    • 06 6880 1095

    • Closed Sun

    • €€

  2. Il Bacaro

    Booking is essential at this tiny osteria. Although the design is contemporary inside, it feels like old Rome when sitting at an outdoor table against the ivy-covered walls. The cuisine is traditional dishes from across Italy.

    • Via degli Spagnoli 27

    • 06 687 2554

    • Closed Sun

    • €€

  3. Osteria dell’Ingegno

    This popular modern wine bar also serves huge meat and cheese platters.

  4. Trattoria Enoteca Corsi

    This wine shop has grown into a thriving restaurant (lunch only) serving delicious traditional cuisine at affordable prices. Check the blackboard for the daily specials.

    • Via del Gèsu 87

    • 06 679 0821

    • Closed Sun

  5. Maccheroni

    The fans and airy rooms wrapped around an open kitchen have a Parisian bistro look. The menu is staunchly Roman though.

    • Piazza delle Coppelle 44

    • 06 6830 7895

    • €€

  6. Ristorante Boccondivino

    Classy, modern restaurant with a contemporary art collection and outdoor seating.

    • Piazza in Campo Marzio 6

    • 06 6830 8626

    • Closed Sat L, Sun

  7. Ristorante Trattoria

    The Sicilian-inspired dishes are light and pleasing at this eatery.

    • Via del Pozzo delle Cornacchie 25

    • 06 6830 1427

    • Closed Sun in Aug

    • €€€€

  8. Settimo all’Arancio

    Hectic, but excellent classic Roman cuisine.

    • Via del Arancio 50–52

    • 06 687 6119

    • Closed Sun (Jul–Aug)

    • €€

  9. Da Gino

    Visit these trompe-l’oeil vaults for food like nonna (grandma) used to make.

    • Vicolo Rosini 4

    • 06 687 3434

    • Closed Sun

  10. Il Delfino

    Self-service Roman dishes at good prices and friendly staff.

    • Corso Vittorio Emmanuele 67

    • 06 686 4053

    Il Delfino

Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals


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