The Quirinal and Via Veneto

The original hill of Rome, the Quirinal was mainly residential in Imperial times, noted for its grand baths and temples. In the Middle Ages, it reverted to open countryside and it wasn’t until the 16th century that it again became important, when the crest of the hill was claimed for the pope’s new palace. Following that, important papal families built their large estates all around the area, including the Barberini, the Corsini and the Ludovisi. The Quirinal Palace has passed through many metamorphoses but the biggest change to the area came after 1870. The Ludovisi sold off their huge villa to developers, and Via Veneto and the smart area around it became an instant success with the wealthy classes of the newly unified country. This quarter speaks of elegance and power throughout all its ages.

Power and Elegance

Since the 16th century, the Quirinal Hill has been the elemental expression of temporal power and dominion in Rome: first the popes, then the kings, and now the Presidents of the Republic. Since the late 1800s, Via Veneto has complemented that raw clout with the charisma and glamour of great wealth and all that money can buy.


Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com


Sights
  1. Baths of Diocletian and Aula Ottagona

    The main collection of this museum is dedicated to rather academic holdings, principally inscriptions and stele (funeral stones). The Aula Ottagona features two 2nd-century BC bronze sculptures of great beauty, which were discovered lovingly hidden in a trench 6 m (20 ft) below the concrete floor of the Temple of the Sun, on the steep hillside of the Quirinal (see Baths of Diocletian).

    Baths of Diocletian

    • Baths of Diocletian: Viale Enrico de Nicola 78

    • Open 9am– 7:45pm Tue–Sun

    • Adm

    Aula Ottagona

    • via Romita, Piazza della Repubblica

    • 06 477 881 (call to visit)

    • Free

    Baths of Diocletian
  2. Santa Maria degli Angeli

    In 1561 the pope commissioned Michelangelo to transform the central hall of Diocletian’s Baths, the frigidarium (cold plunge room), into a church. The result is this overwhelming space, which gives a clearer idea than anywhere else in Rome of how vast these public bathing palaces were. Even then, the finished church takes up only half of the original. Michelangelo had to raise the floor 2 m (6 ft) in order to use the ancient 15-m (50-ft) rose-red granite columns the way he wanted to.

    • Piazza della Repubblica

    • Open 7–6:30pm daily

    • Free

    • DA

  3. Santa Maria della Vittoria

    This 17th-century Baroque extravaganza has perhaps Rome’s most ornate decor, most of it executed by Bernini and his students. The most indulgent corner is the Cornaro Chapel, to the left of the altar, home to Bernini’s shocking Ecstacy of St Teresa .

    • Via XX Settembre 17

    • Open 9am–noon, 3:30–6:15pm daily

    • Free

    • DA

    Santa Maria della Vittoria
  4. Palazzo Barberini

    The Barberini sold their palace to the Italian State in 1949 to house part of the National Gallery, which was founded in 1893 with the purchase of the Corsini Palace. The number of pictures in the collection now exceeds 1,700 and has been added to through the acquisition of collections from Rome’s noble families over the ensuing years. Among the most famous works are Filippo Lippi’s Madonna and Child, the controversial La Fornarina (supposedly Raphael’s mistress, probably painted by Giulio Romano, his favourite pupil), and Caravaggio’s Judith and Holofernes (see Palazzo Barberini).

    • Via delle Quattro Fontane 18

    • 06 328 101

    • Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun

    • Adm

    • DA

    Palazzo Barberini
  5. Piazza Barberini

    This could be called the “piazza of the bees”, the Barberini family symbol (judiciously upgraded from horseflies when their fortunes improved). Both of the piazza’s fountains by Bernini have large, mutant-like versions of the busy insects carved onto them, to let everyone know who sponsored their creation. The central figure of a triton blowing his conch is one of Rome’s most appealing and memorable, made of travertine that takes on a warm honey colour. The other fountain is a simple scallop shell (see Piazza Barberini).

    Fountain, Piazza Barberini
  6. Via Veneto

    This lazy curve of a street sports a number of belle époque grand hotels and canopied pavement cafés. It enjoyed its famous dolce vita (sweet life) heyday in the 1950–60s, when movie stars supped, to Rome should come at least once to take a stroll here.

    Via Veneto
  7. Capuchin Crypt

    A taste for the macabre may be all you need to enjoy this place. A cast-iron stomach doesn’t hurt, either. Perhaps the most fascinating thing about this intense memento mori is its position, at the bottom of what was the most sophisticated of streets when la dolce vita was in full swing (see Capuchin Crypt).

    • Via Veneto 27

    • Open 7am–noon, 3–6pm Fri–Wed

    • Donation

  8. Palazzo del Quirinale

    The highest of the original seven hills, the Quirinal was also the enclave of the ancient Sabines (see Rape of the Sabine Women) in Rome’s earliest days. Today, it is graced by 5.5-m (18-ft) Roman copies of 5th-century BC Greek originals of the Dioscuri and their prancing horses. The hill’s stark, imposing palace, Rome’s largest, was built in 1574 as a summer papal residence, to escape the endemic malaria around the Vatican. In 1870 it became the residence of the kings of Italy and, since 1947, Italy’s presidents have held official functions here.

    • Piazza del Quirinale

    • Open 13 Jan–15 Dec 8:30am–noon Sun (gardens open to the public on 2 Jun, Italian Republic Day)

    • Adm

    • DA

    Palazzo del Quirinale
  9. Sant’Andrea al Quirinale

    This may represent Bernini’s architectural peak, built between 1658 and 1670, the only construction over which he was able to exercise total artistic control. The wide, shallow space needed an oval plan, counterpoised in the concave curving entrance. The eye is masterfully drawn around the elliptical interior, where canonical elements are blended with sculptural decoration to produce an elegant harmony. For so small a church, the impact is surprisingly grand, made richer by the columns of red marble from Sicily.

    • Via del Quirinale 29

    • Open 8:30am–noon, 3:30–7pm Mon–Sat; 9am–noon, 4–7pm Sun

    • Donation

    • DA

    Sant’Andrea al Quirinale
  10. San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane

    Borromini’s masterpiece appears about as radically freeform as architecture could be in the 17th century. He filled this small space with fluid undulations, which have complex geometrical relationships. Borromini succeeded in blurring the line between architecture and sculpture, resulting in a homogeneous interior topped by an oval dome.

    • Via del Quirinale 23

    • Open 10am–1pm daily; 3–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat & Sun

    • Free

    • DA

    One of the Quattro Fontane statues

Exploring the Quirinal

Morning

Start on Quirinal Hill, also known as Monte Cavallo after the horse sculptures, here. Sadly, the vast blandness of the Palazzo del Quirinale does little to spur the imagination. Walk halfway down Via del Quirinale and across from a gate, you’ll find Bernini’s architectural tour de force, Sant’ Andrea al Quirinale. Inside, note the many maritime motifs, symbolic of Andrew the fisherman.

Continue on to Borromini’s San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. Don’t miss the masterful crypt and the exquisite cloister. Two blocks along, take a right to the Aula Ottagona . The ancient bronzes of the Prince and the Boxer are amazing expressions of controlled power.

Now take Via Bissolati to Via Veneto. Check out the cafés, shops and hotels before enjoying lunch at the elegant Gran Caffè Doney .

Afternoon

After lunch, admire the belle époque Excelsior Hotel for its appealing architecture, especially its cupola and sexually ambiguous caryatids. And don’t miss the public rooms of the sublime Regina Baglioni , which positively reek of luxury.

Finally, after soaking up all the opulence, walk down to visit the eerie Capuchin Crypt to put things back in perspective. Round off your tour with a stop at Piazza Barberini and Bernini’s marvellously life-affirming Triton Fountain.

La Dolce Vita Venues

Pavement café, Via Veneto
  1. Gran Caffè Doney

    One of the best spots in the world to sit under the magnolias, sip cappuccino and watch passers-by – although they’re mostly tourists now not the celebrities of old (see Cafés and Gelaterie).

    • Via Veneto 145

    • DA

  2. Café de Paris

    This café has always been the landmark of dolce vita lifestyle along this glossy strip. It’s still a magical place to sip an espresso or partake of a light snack.

    • Via Veneto 90

    • DA

    Café de Paris
  3. Harry’s Bar

    Noted for its clubby American style – a dry Martini, tuxedo and cigar sort of place, featuring a piano bar, a restaurant with gourmet cuisine, and a café with tables outside. Be prepared to spend lavishly.

    • Via Veneto 150

  4. La Terrazza dell’Eden

    At the top of the erstwhile premier celebrity hotel, this bar-restaurant has perhaps the best views in Rome. It’s perfect for a romantic tête-à-tête or any special do (see Eden).

    • Via Ludovisi 49

  5. Gran Caffè Roma

    Located in an elegant curve of the street, with outdoor tables at the bottom of a broad staircase. A great spot to linger over your cappuccino and newspaper.

    • Via Veneto 32

    • DA

  6. R & Co

    Nothing short of fabulous is this collection of designer shoes, leather goods and other fashions.

    • Via Veneto 104

    • DA

  7. Brioni

    This legendary Italian tailor was established in 1945. The beautifully cut suits have been used in recent James Bond films.

    • Via Veneto 129

    • DA

  8. Jackie O’

    As the name implies, this was a leading watering-hole and club in the 1960s. It still attracts international stars. Call ahead if you are not world-famous.

    • Via Boncompagni 11

    • DA

  9. Hard Rock Café

    It was inevitable that this international chain would choose Via Veneto for its Roman home. Serves standard American fare.

    • Via Veneto 62/A/B

    • DA

  10. Arion

    Independent bookstore specializing in exquisite art books. It stays open until 10pm on Sundays.

    • Via Veneto 42

    • DA

Places to Eat

  1. Café Veneto

    Right in the heart of the famous street, habitués find elegance and carefully prepared fare. Specialities include game and truffles.

  2. La Scala

    A most inviting setting, with wood panelling and stained-glass skylights, situated at the top of a grand staircase. Unusual dishes such as bombolotti spada e melanzane – pasta tubes with swordfish and aubergine (eggplant). Dinner only; reserve.

    • Via di S Isidoro 5

    • 06 481 9264

    • Closed Tue

    • €€

  3. La Giara

    A traditional trattoria with an unpretentious charm. The menu includes mussels with port and curry.

    • Via Toscana 46, at Via Sardegna

    • 06 4274 5421

    • Closed Sun

    • DA

    • €€

  4. Colline Emiliane

    The speciality here is Emilia-Romagna cuisine, which highlights a variety of prosciutto (ham) dishes and tortellini in brodo (meat-filled pasta in broth).

    • Via degli Avignonesi 22

    • 06 481 7538

    • Closed Sun dinner, Mon

    • DA

    • €€

  5. Andrea

    Very congenial and featuring a wide-ranging menu. The supplì (rice croquette) is a classic starter.

    • Via Sardegna 28

    • 06 482 1819

    • 06 474 0557

    • Closed Sat lunch, Sun

    • DA

    • €€€€€

  6. Trimani

    A classy wine bar with a full menu of soups, pastas, cheeses and cured meats.

    • Via Cernaia 37/B

    • 06 446 9630

    • Closed Sun

    • DA

  7. Doublé

    One of the best bargains in town, Fish specialities on Fridays. Lunch only.

    • Salita di S Nicola da Tolentino 19–21

    • 06 474 0029

    • Closed Sun

  8. Dagnino

    Rome’s favourite spot for sampling Sicilian pastries, like cassata (iced cake).

    • Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 75 & Via Torino 95

    • 06 481 8660

    • DA

  9. Mariano

    A pleasant setting with fine roasted game or abbacchio (lamb).

    • Via Piemonte 79

    • 06 474 5256

    • Closed Sat L, Sun

    • DA

    • €€

  10. Africa

    Scoop up tantalizingly spicy vegetables and meats with spongy bread at this fantastic restaurant.

    • Via Gaeta 26

    • 06 494 1077

    • Closed Mon

    • DA

Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals


..................Content has been hidden....................

You can't read the all page of ebook, please click here login for view all page.
Reset
44.222.116.199