Vatican City

One of the great museum complexes of the world includes Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel and the extensive Raphael Rooms (see Vatican City).

St Peter’s Basilica

The capital of Christendom is packed with works by Bernini, statues by Michelangelo and panoramic views from the dome (see Features of St Peter’s Basilica).

Villa Farnesina

Peruzzi’s sumptuous villa (1508–11) was built for papal banker Agostino Chigi, whose parties were legendary – he would toss silver platters into the Tiber after each course. In a downstairs room, Peruzzi painted Chigi’s horoscope on the ceiling, Sebastiano del Piombo painted scenes from Ovid’s Metamorphoses, and Raphael painted the sensual Galatea. Peruzzi’s upstairs hall features a trompe-l’oeil balustrade overlooking hills. The 1527 graffiti by Charles V’s troops is now historic vandalism, protected under glass. The bedroom contains Sodoma’s Wedding Night of Alexander the Great (1517) (see Villa Farnesina).

• Via della Lungara 230

• Open 9am–1pm Mon–Sat & afternoons by appt

• Adm €5

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Rome’s oldest church dedicated to the Virgin was founded in 337 on the site where a miraculous font of oil spouted the day Christ was born. The miracle is depicted in the stupendous Life of the Virgin mosaics (1291) by Pietro Cavallini, covering the lower half of the apse. The current 12th-century church has 13th-century mosaics, 22 mismatched ancient columns and a Cosmatesque pavement. There’s also a rare 7th-century panel painting of the Madonna della Clemenza in the chapel left of the altar (see Santa Maria in Trastevere).

• Piazza S Maria in Trastevere

• Open 7:30am–8pm daily

• Free

Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

Built atop the saint’s house, some of which is visible in the crypt excavations. A Guido Reni painting of Cecilia’s decapitation sits off a right-hand corridor of the nave. Under the apse’s glittering 9th-century mosaics rests a baldacchino (1293) by Arnolfo di Cambio and Carlo Maderno’s 1600 statue of the saint (he saw her incorrupt body when her tomb was opened in 1599). Ring the bell on the left aisle to see the top half of Pietro Cavallini’s Last Judgment (1289– 93), his only remaining fresco in Rome.

• Piazza di S Cecilia

• Open 9:30am–1pm, 4–6:30pm daily (summer 4:15–6pm)

• Adm €2.50 for crypt

Vatican Gardens

Typical 16th-century Italianate gardens of lawns, woods, grottoes and fountains. Structures include the first Vatican radio tower, designed by Marconi in 1931, Pier Luigi Nervi’s shell-shaped audience hall (1971) and the Mannerist Casina of Pius IV (1558–61), home to the Pontifical Academy of Sciences.

• Viale Vaticano

• Tours 11am Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat

• (06 6988 4676 or www.vatican.va)

• Adm €30.00

• DA

Castel Sant’Angelo

Hadrian designed his massive circular tomb in 123–39. Aurelian fortified it in 271 as part of his city walls (see The Aurelian wall). It was the papal castle for 1,000 years – a viaduct from the Vatican let the popes scurry here in times of crisis. Gregory the Great named it in 590 after a vision of St Michael announced the end of a plague from its tower, commemorated by the bronze statue of a sword-bearing archangel. There are frescoed Renaissance papal apartments and a small arms and armour collection (Etruscan through to the 1900s), plus stunning panoramas from the ramparts.

• Lungotevere Castello 50

• Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun

• Adm €5.00

San Francesco a Ripa

Though altered during the Renaissance and Baroque eras, the church was built just 12 years after St Francis stayed at this hospice in 1219. Ask the sacristan’s permission to visit the cell in which St Francis stayed, bearing a copy of his portrait by Margaritone d’Arezzo. The last chapel on the left houses Bernini’s Beata Ludovica Albertoni (1671– 4), in a state of religious ecstasy bordering scandalously on the sexual.

• Piazza di S Francesco d’Assisi

• Open 7am–1pm, 4–7:30pm Mon–Sat, 4–7:30pm Sun

• Free

Gianicolo

This long ridge separating Trastevere from the Vatican offers some of the best views of Rome (see Gianicolo). Its two equestrian monuments celebrate Garibaldi and his wife Anita, who is buried underneath.

Ponte Sant’Angelo

Hadrian built this bridge in 133–4 to access his mausoleum, but only the three central arches of that span remain. Clement VII had the statues of St Peter (by Lorenzetto) and St Paul (by Paolo Taccone) installed in 1534. Clement IX hired Bernini in 1688 to design the statues of 10 angels holding symbols of the Passion.

San Pietro in Montorio

Bramante designed the mini-temple in the courtyard to mark the spot where St Peter was supposedly crucified.

• Via Garibaldi 33

• Open 8:30am–noon, 3–4pm Mon–Fri; 8:30am–noon Sat, Sun

• Free

Palazzo Corsini

Small painting collection, featuring works by Fra’ Angelico, Van Dyck, Titian, Rubens and Caravaggio.

• Via della Lungara 10

• Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun

• Adm

Tiber Island

It is said that the serpent of medical god Aesculapius jumped ship and swam ashore here in 293 BC. Rome’s maternity hospital is still here.

Orto Botanico

Palazzo Corsini’s beautiful gardens are now the University of Rome’s botanical museum.

• Largo Cristina di Svezia 24

• Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6pm; Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5:30pm Mon–Sat

• Adm

• DA

Ponte Rotto

Rome’s first stone bridge, (181–142 BC) was ruined in 1598. It retained three arches until 1886, when two were destroyed to make room for Ponte Palatino (Rotto means broken in Italian).

Santa Maria della Scala

A charming Renaissance church, whose claim to fame is a Virgin and Child by Cavalier d’Arpino (Caravaggio’s teacher).

• Piazza S Maria della Scala

• Open 9am–noon, 3:30–6pm daily

• Free

Fontana Paola

This wide basin at the end of the Paola aqueduct is a favourite backdrop for wedding photos.

Villa Doria Pamphilj

Rome’s largest public park was established in 1644–52 by Camillo Pamphilj. A great place for picnics.

• Via di S Pancrazio

• Open sunrise–sunset daily

• Free

• DA

Museo di Roma in Trastevere

Housed in a beautifully restored ex-convent, this museum includes life-size dioramas of Ancient Roman rooms and shops.

• Piazza di S Egidio 1b

• Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun

• Adm

San Crisogono

The 1626 façade copies the medieval one. Inside are 22 ancient columns and excavations of the 5th-century basilica.

• Piazza S Sonnino 44

• Open 7:30– 11:30am, 4–7pm Mon–Sat; 8:30am–1pm, 4:15–7:30pm Sun

• Adm

COIN

This good-value department store is where real Romans shop, for back-to-school clothes, kitchen utensils, stationery, household appliances, and much, much more. There’s also a supermarket in the basement, which is great for buying a picnic.

• Via Cola di Rienzo 173

Franchi

One of the best grocers in the city, extremely popular at lunchtime for its hot dishes and in the evening for its fried and baked calzone (stuffed pizza pockets). Locals start queueing up at 5pm.

• Via Cola di Rienzo 204

Castroni

The gastronomic temple of Rome since 1932, this shop is piled high with packaged and prepared speciality foods from countries the world over, such as Japan, Greece, India, China and the Middle East.

• Via Cola di Rienzo 196

Energie

Energie provides all that’s new in the world of Italian youth fashion. Whether it’s jeans, shirts or shoes you’re after, all are on offer for both sexes.

• Via Cola di Rienzo 143

Azi

From kitchenware to furniture, Azi gives slick ideas for the home from top Italian designers.

• Via L Manara 7

New Fashion

Slightly higher prices than most but better selection and more fashionable wares at this stock house for mostly women’s suits and skirts.

• Via Simone de Saint Bon 85–7

Stock Market

Discount outlet for industrial design objects and various homewares.

• Via Visconti 96

Polvere di Tempo

Non-mechanical timepieces, including hour glasses, various sundials, candle clocks, astrolabes, all hand crafted by the Argentinian owner.

• Via del Moro 59

Temporary Love

This gallery-like shop sells handbags designed by Italian artists and clothing and accessories that border on contemporary art.

• Via di San Calisto 9

Costantini

Massive wine cellar; one of the best selections of fine labels in Rome at reasonable prices.

• Piazza Cavour 16

Ombre Rosse

This laid-back pub is a staple of Trastevere nightlife. The atmosphere is always lively, with tables on the piazza in summer.

• Piazza S Egidio 12–13

Chakra

Located on a quiet street, this charming bar has a relaxed atmosphere and a pretty outdoor terrace that is popular in summer.

• Via dell’Arco di San Calisto 17

Bar Calisto

This quiet neighbourhood bar is the antithesis of the trendy Trastevere scene. Locals come here to play cards, read papers and catch up on the day’s gossip. Welcoming atmosphere and drinks at reasonable prices.

• Piazza San Calisto

Caffè delle Arance

Overpriced and indifferent, sullen service but a prime location smack on Trastevere’s public “living room”, Piazza Santa Maria. The spremuta (freshly squeezed orange juice) is made from a kilo of oranges.

• Piazza S Maria in Trastevere 2

Big Hilda Café

A welcoming joint offering rock ‘n’ roll, cheap drinks and a range of sandwiches and salads.

• Vicolo del Cinque 33–4

Friends

The semi-circular bar and restaurant is always packed with Trastevere regulars. The menu includes inventive dishes and excellent bar sandwiches.

• Piazza Trilussa 34

Enoteca Trastevere

A new and positively thriving wine bar, with pleasingly dark wood interior and plenty of seating out front on the cobblestones. Light snacks and cocktails are served too.

• Via della Lungaretta 86

Roma Caput Mundi

One of Rome’s most popular Irish pubs with a corner location that most locals pass through for a pint of Kilkenny or Harp during the evening.

• Via Luciano Manara 64

Borgo Antico

A wood-filled, classically styled 16th-century tavern, with coffered ceilings, and offering more than 60 wines by the glass. Typical osteria dishes are on offer too.

• Borgo Pio 21

Mr Brown

Very popular British-style bar with a vaguely old-fashioned sporting theme and a faithful English expat clientele.

• Vicolo del Cinque 29

Alexanderplatz

A little bit off the beaten track, in Prati, but the best jazz club in Rome bar none – Winton Marsalis, Lionel Hampton, George Coleman and many other international jazz stars have played here (see Alexanderplatz).

• Via Ostia 9

Big Mama

Rome’s real house of blues, where the big names book and the smaller acts gig. Only open for live performances (see Big Mama).

• Vicolo S Francesco a Ripa 18

Stairs Club

A trendy bar with large, comfy sofas on the lower level. Cocktails and bar snacks are available every evening and live accoustic jazz combos are performed once a week.

• Via della Scala 43

Saxophone Pub

This warm, cosy pub, close to the Vatican, serves simple pub fare including salads and sandwiches. There is always a friendly atmosphere, with jazz and blues on the stereo and local bands that come here to jam.

• Via Germanico 26

Four Green Fields

Upstairs there is a vaguely British-style pub, while in the basement live music is played nightly.

• Via C Morin 42

Fonclea

Established in 1977, this historic music venue is located close to Piazza del Risorgimento and features a variety of live music including jazz, soul, funk and rock. Punters can either drink at the bar or eat in the buffet restaurant.

• Via Crescenzio 82

Birreria Trilussa

Beer and simple dishes are served until the early hours, with live music some nights. Cosy, traditional atmosphere.

• Via Benedetta 18–20

The Place

There’s always live music on the main stage, be it jazz or soulful singer-songwriters.

• Via Alberico II 29

Caffè della Scala

A relaxed bar serving powerful cocktails and a great grappa selection. Live music is also on offer from time to time.

• Via della Scala 4

Lettere Café

The focus is on books, but a couple of nights a week are devoted to live roots music.

• Via S. Francesco a Ripa 100

Da Augusto

Die-hard Trastevere osteria complete with wooden tables and traditional menu.

• Piazza de’ Renzi 15

• 06 580 3798

• No credit cards

• €

Osteria Pucci

This restaurant serves a good selection of Roman specialties and traditional Italian fare. The outdoor terrace is open most of the year.

• Piazza Mastai 1–4

• 06 581 9870

• €€

La Tana dei Noantri

Lengthy menu promising all the best of Roman cuisine, including penne arrabbiata (pasta in a spicy tomato sauce). There are a few tables in the piazza against the church in summer.

• Via della Paglia 1–3, off Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

• 06 580 6404

• Closed Tue

• €

Pizzeria Da Ivo

A lively football theme and ever-present crowds are the features of Rome’s favourite pizzeria (see Pizzeria Da Ivo).

• Via S Francesco a Ripa 158

• 06 581 7082

• Closed L, Tue

• €

Insalata Ricca

Part of a popular chain of restaurants serving huge salads, pizzas and other light dishes.

• Piazza del Risorgimento 5–6

• 06 3973 0387

• €

Pizzeria Dar Poeta

Innovative pizza is served here – Roman-style, but with a thick crust (see Pizzeria Dar Poeta).

• Vicolo del Bologna 45–6

• 06 588 0516

• Closed L

• €

Osteria dell’Angelo

Angelo prepares excellent traditional Roman cooking at equally admirable prices. Book ahead.

• Via G Bettolo 24

• 06 372 9470

• Closed L (except Tue & Fri), Sun

• €

Pizzeria Da Vittorio

Good Neapolitan-style pizza, antipasti, and a fan-cooled interior plastered with photos of famous patrons make this one of Rome’s best pizzerias (see Pizzeria Da Vittorio).

• Via S Cosimato 14A

• 06 580 0353

• €

Da Giovanni

A tiny trattoria that serves good, filling, traditional Roman fare at very low prices.

• Via della Lungara 41A

• 06 686 1514

• Closed Sun

• €

Napul’è

Campanian cuisine and more than 40 types of pizza approved by Naples’ strict “True Pizza” association. Live Neapolitan music is played most nights.

• Viale Giulio Cesare 89–91

• 06 323 1005

• €

Sabatini

Roman cuisine and seafood in an old Fellini hang-out. Book ahead for a table out on the main square (see Sabatini).

• Piazza S Maria in Trastevere 13

• 06 581 2026

• €€€€€

Ferrara

Deservedly trendy; decoration is minimalist, with patio seating and the creative menu is based around the remarkable wine selection.

• Via del Moro 1a

• 06 5833 3920

• €€€

Sora Lella

Low wood-beam ceilings and classic Roman cooking define this restaurant on Tiber Island (sadly, no river views). The food is delicious but the portions are small by Italian standards.

• Via Ponte Quattro Capi 16

• 06 686 1601

• Closed Sun

• €€€

Les Etoiles

Not only do you come here for the cuisine, but also for the al fresco dining and wonderful panoramas of St Peter’s Basilica.

• Via Vitelleschi 34, Hotel Atlante Star

• 06 689 3434

• €€€€€

Antico Arco

Trendy, pan-Italian, creative eatery in a lovely setting on Gianicolo hill.

• Piazzale Aurelio 7

• 06 581 5274

• Closed Mon–Sat L, all day Sun

• €€€

Il Ciak

Excellent game dishes are among the offerings served in this typical Tuscan trattoria.

• Vicolo del Cinque 21

• 06 589 4774

• Closed L, Mon

• €€

Alberto Ciarla

Rome’s premier seafood restaurant. There’s also a well-stocked wine cellar (see Alberto Ciarla).

• Piazza di S Cosimato 40

• 06 581 8668

• Closed L, Sun

• €€€€€

Il Matriciano

Businessmen and Cinecittà film directors patronize this Prati restaurant named after the spicy bacon-and-tomato pasta sauce. Try to sit outside in summer.

• Via dei Gracchi 55

• 06 321 3040

• Closed Wed

• €€€

La Pergola

Incredible vistas of the city and food by a top international chef – one of Rome’s best dining experiences.

Rome Cavalieri Hilton Hotel

• Via Cadlolo 101

• 06 3509 2211

• Closed Sun–Mon

• €€€€€

Taberna de’ Gracchi

Dante Mililli’s dining rooms may be large and modern, but the spirit is old-school Roman dining with a few contemporary touches.

• Via dei Gracchi 266–8

• 06 321 3126

• Closed Sun

• €€€