VANCOUVER ISLAND

A world away from buzzing Vancouver, but easily accessible by ferry or seaplane, picturesque Vancouver Island is where city folk go for downtime. Located at the very south of the island, the provincial capital Victoria is the first stop for most visitors. The rest of the sparsely populated island offers protected parkland, endless beaches, offshore islets, and fishing villages.

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1. Clayoquot Sound

Pronounced “cla-kwat,” Clayoquot boasts 1,700-year-old trees. Tofino, Ucluelet, and several First Nations communities share the UNESCO biosphere reserve with black bears, elk, cougars, wolves, and an endangered bird, the marbled murrelet. The coastline has scenic bays, intertidal lagoons, and mudflats.

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Black bear in Clayoquot Sound

2. Long Beach

The 16-km (10-mile) stretch of coastline (see Around Long Beach) located between Tofino and Ucluelet is a part of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve of Canada. Backed by forests and with wide vistas of the wild Pacific Ocean, it is a must-see. Visitors can hike, surf, and also learn about the Nuu-chah-nulth peoples, who have inhabited this region for centuries.

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Shoreline of Long Beach after a sunset, Pacific Rim National Park

3. Gulf Islands

Many visitors flock to these islands in the Strait of Georgia. Salt Spring, with its many artists’ studios, and Galiano, which has a lovely provincial park, are the most popular island destinations. Saturna, Pender, Mayne, and Gabriola are the other major islands. Each has its own personality; all are accessible by ferry from Swartz Bay.

4. Goldstream Provincial Park

prac_info Visitor Centre: 2930 Trans Canada Hwy; 250 478 9414; open 9am–4:30pm daily

Massive old-growth Douglas firs tower overhead in this mystic rain forest only 12 miles (19 km) from Victoria. The park’s waterfall drops 155 ft (48 m) into a canyon pool and is easily accessible by foot. An annual salmon run on the Goldstream River during fall attracts hundreds of majestic bald eagles. Once a fishing ground for the Coast Salish, the park was overrun by miners during the Gold Rush of the 1850s. A visitor centre provides information on the park.

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Stream at Goldstream Provincial Park

5. Cowichan Valley

This pastoral valley is a mix of forests as well as farmland. Its wines, ciders, and gourmet cheeses attract foodies from miles around. Cowichan Lake is Vancouver Island’s main freshwater lake and a terrific spot for swimming, canoeing, and fishing. The Cowichan River is also famed for its fly-fishing.

6. Nanaimo

prac_info The Bastion: 98 Front St; open 10am–3pm daily (in summer only); adm • Nanaimo Museum: 100 Museum Way; open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat (daily in summer); adm; www.nanaimomuseum.ca

The Old Quarter, built when Nanaimo was a coal-mining town, boasts many 19th-century buildings, including the 1895 Nanaimo Court House. Pay a visit to The Bastion Nanaimo Museum at the Harbourfront Walkway. Nanaimo Downtown Farmers’ Market is held by The Bastion on Fridays (Jun–Sep).

7. Strathcona Provincial Park

prac_info www.env.gov.bc.ca

This vast area of rugged mountain wilderness in the interior of Vancouver Island has been a provincial park since 1911. Snowy peaks make a stunning backdrop to the park’s many hiking trails; at 7,218 ft (2,200 m) the Golden Hinde dominates the southern region of the island. Buttle Lake is the largest body of water in the park and is a popular place to set up camp.

8. Butchart Gardens

prac_info 800 Benvenuto Ave, Brentwood Bay • 250 652 4422 • Open daily • Adm

For over a century, the incomparable Butchart Gardens, wrung out of a worked-out quarry, have awed visitors with their lush beauty.

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Sunken garden at Butchart Gardens

9. Victoria

With many outstanding historic and cultural sights, including the Royal British Columbia Museum, artist Emily Carr’s House, and the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, the provincial capital makes a pleasant base for visits to Vancouver Island. A mild climate, lovely parks and gardens, and great vistas from the Inner Harbour add to the city’s charm. The waters around Victoria are also a great spot for whale-watching, especially between May and November.

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Sea kayaking around Barkley Sound

10. Broken Group Islands

An archipelago of some 100 rugged islands and islets is a paradise for nature lovers, kayakers, and scuba divers. The area around Barkley Sound has outstanding views of coastal rain forest, beaches, and sea caves. Accessible only by boat, this isolated wilderness is best experienced via a guided tour.

DUNCAN, THE CITY OF TOTEMS

The world’s largest outdoor collection of totem poles can be explored in Duncan, a city on the traditional lands of the Cowichan First Nation in the Cowichan Valley. Carved in western red cedar, the poles bear designs represent family crests and traditional symbols in Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw culture, and were once a record of significant events.

WALKING TOUR OF VICTORIA

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MORNING

Starting at the corner of Wharf Street and Douglas Street visit the Maritime Museum of British Columbia and devote an hour to its displays before heading north on Government Street. At Fisgard Street, the Chinese-style Gate of Harmonious Interest welcomes you to Chinatown. Explore the area for an hour, dipping into tiny Fan Tan Alley, off Fisgard Street. Continue south to Bastion Square, the heart of Old Town, where fur traders boozed and brawled in the days of Fort Victoria. Head to the Irish Times Pub (1200 Government Street; open 7am–1am daily) for fish and chips.

AFTERNOON

Pause to admire the marine traffic from the Inner Harbour. At the far end of the harbor, cross Belleville Street to view the Queen Victoria statue by the BC Parliament Buildings. The fascinating Royal British Columbia Museum next door will take about two hours to peruse. Exit the museum on the east side to admire the fascinating totem poles in Thunderbird Park before checking out the historic Helmcken House nearby. Cross Belleville Street to the Fairmont Empress Hotel for a glimpse of the grand lobby. Have dinner at Red Fish Blue Fish located by the waterfront on Broughton Street Pier to replenish your energy.

Outdoor Activities

1. Rock Climbing

prac_info Strathcona Park Lodge: 41040 Gold River Hwy, Campbell River, 250 286 3122; www.strathconaparklodge.com

Climbers can explore any one of the three bluffs and view the vistas across Upper Campbell Lake, with the guided tours of Strathcona Park Lodge.

2. Fishing

Both fly-fishing and salmon fishing are popular. The action-packed east coast Campbell River, known as “the salmon capital of the world,” is a highlight February through to March.

3. Hiking

Hikers gravitate to the west coast for the summer-only West Coast Trail. Just as picturesque, but shorter, are the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail and Wild Pacific Trail.

4. Skiing

prac_info Mount Washington Alpine Resort: www.mountwashington.ca

Mount Washington has some of the best powder in BC to ski, snowboard, cross-country, and toboggan.

5. Camping

Scenic campgrounds are scattered across Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Hello BC, the BC tourism website, has comprehensive listings.

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Scenic camping in the snow

6. Kayaking and Canoeing

prac_info Ocean River Sports: 250 381 4233; www.oceanriver.com

For ocean paddling there’s the Broken Group Islands, Clayoquot Sound, the Gulf Islands, and Nanaimo. If you like lakes, explore Elk and Beaver Lake. Hire equipment at Ocean River Sports.

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Kayaking in the Strait of Georgia

7. Diving

prac_info Sink or Swim Scuba: 250 758 7946; www.scubananaimo.ca

Winter diving is best for visibility. Popular dive spots include Barkley Sound, Browning Wall, Discovery, and wrecks off the coast close to Nanaimo. Sink or Swim Scuba offers equipment hire and PADI courses.

8. Biking

From gentle cycling in Victoria to serious off-road mountain biking in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island has something for everyone. There is a good choice of tour and rental companies (see Traveling by Bicycle).

9. Surfing

prac_info Pacific Surf School: 250 725 2155 • Surf Sister Surf School: 250 725 4456

Access to the wild west coast and the Pacific Ocean make surfing popular on Vancouver Island, especially in Tofino and Long Beach. Chesterman Beach is a great place for beginners.

10. Whale-Watching

Between April and October, you can spot resident orcas (killer whales). In May, June, September and October, migratory humpback whales pass the BC coast, and gray whales (see Pacific Rim National Park Reserve of Canada) do so in spring. You can see minke whales all year round.

Vancouver Island Restaurants

1. 1909 Kitchen

prac_info 634 Campbell St, Tofino • 250 726 6122 • $$

A charming nautical-inspired spot perched above the marina. It boasts a locally-sourced menu that includes fresh seafood and wood-fired pizzas.

2. Nori Japanese Restaurant

prac_info 6750 Island Hwy, Unit 203, Nanaimo • 250 751 3377 • $

The location of this award-winning restaurant might not inspire (it’s set on the highway), but the sushi and sashimi are the best in town.

3. The Pointe Restaurant

prac_info Wickaninnish Inn, 500 Osprey Ln, Tofino • 250 725 3106 • $$$

Offering panoramic views of the wild Pacific Ocean, this restaurant boasts a great fine-dining menu. Try the weekly tasting menu paired with BC wines.

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Dinner with a view at the Pointe Restaurant

4. Bee’s Knees Café

prac_info 208 Wallace St, Nanaimo • 250 591 5250 • Closed D, Sun • $

This cozy community café has a limited menu, which changes daily, but the great coffee is a staple.

5. Zoe’s Bakery and Café

prac_info 250 Main St, Ucluelet • 250 726 2253 • Closed D • $

Equally loved by locals and visitors alike, Zoe’s Bakery is a wholefoods bakery that is proudly pro-gluten (and definitely pro-butter).

6. Hank’s Untraditional BBQ

prac_info 1576 Imperial Ln, Ucluelet • 250 726 2225 • Closed L • $$

Fill up on hearty portions of smoked and slow-cooked meats at this joint. It is relaxed and casual, with friendly service. Complement your meal with one of the tasty local beers on tap.

7. Norwoods

prac_info 1714 Peninsula Rd, Ucluelet • 250 726 7001 • $$$

This fine-dining place with an outdoor terrace is known for its wine-bar feel. There are plenty of seafood options and everything is seasonal and cooked to perfection.

8. Common Loaf

prac_info 180 First St, Tofino • 250 725 3915 • Closed D • $

An institution in Tofino, this quirky cash-only bakeshop has provided the town with artisan breads and sweet baked goods for years.

9. Gabriel’s Gourmet Café

prac_info 39A Commercial St, Nanaimo • 250 714 0271 • $

Set right in the heart of Nanaimo is Gabriel’s, who can tell you where they’ve sourced every ingredient. The popular brunch is served until 3pm.

10. Chocolate Tofino

prac_info 1180 A Pacific Rim Hwy, Tofino • 250 725 2526 • $

Exquisite handcrafted chocolate, gelato and sorbet are served in this tiny shack – you can even watch the chocolatiers at work. There are long lines for the tasty gelato in summer.

Shopping in Victoria

1. Fort Street Antiques

prac_info Fort St between Douglas St & Cook St

Discover one-of-a-kind silverware, glass and china, fine art, furniture, and jewelry on upper Fort Street.

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Items for sale in Fort Street Antiques

2. WIN Pandora

prac_info 785 Pandora Ave • 250 480 4006

Victoria’s community cooperative Women In Need (WIN) has several secondhand boutiques dotted around the city; Pandora is a great place to find vintage clothing and accessories.

3. Bernstein & Gold

prac_info 608 Yates St • 250 384 7899

Head to this lifestyle boutique for carefully chosen homewares, jewelry, footwear, leather goods, as well as great skin-care brands and a mini spa.

4. Silk Road Tea

prac_info 1624 Government St • 250 382 0006

Silk Road offers a tea-tasting bar similar to a wine bar. In addition to tea, it has a spa and its own line of natural body-care products.

5. She She Bags

prac_info 616 View St • 250 388 0613

This place is purse heaven: from glitzy clutch bags to industrial laptop bags, this store has a bag for everyone.

6. Reunion Boutique 

prac_info 585 Johnson St • 250 380 0906

At this unisex boutique, mod meets boho-chic. There is great clothing by both international designers as well as homegrown talent.

7. Fan Tan Home & Style

prac_info 541 Fisgard St • 250 382 4424

This store sells gifts from around the world, with a focus on India, Indonesia, China, and France. Home accessories include mats, art, baskets, linens, and curios.

8. Violette Boutique

prac_info 1303 Government St • 250 388 7752

Inspired by Paris jewelry boutiques, the owner stocks mainly Canadian-made pieces, both dainty and chunky.

9. Capital Iron

prac_info 1900 Store St • 250 385 9703

Opened in 1934, this iconic hardware store sells great outdoor clothing and gear.

10. Munro’s Books

prac_info 1108 Government St • 250 382 2464

A fantastic bookstore founded by Jim Munro and his wife, Alice Munro, the Nobel Prize-winning author.

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Exterior of Munro’s Books

Places to Eat in Victoria

1. Fairmont Empress Hotel

A variety of colonial-themed dining venues await at Victoria’s grandest hotel. Especially popular is the formal afternoon tea, served daily since 1908 – advance reservations are required.

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Inside the Fairmont Empress Hotel

2. Olo

prac_info 509 Fisgard St • 250 590 8795 • Closed L • $$$

A small restaurant on the edge of Chinatown, this serves impeccable West Coast cuisine made with all local ingredients.

3. Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub

prac_info 308 Catherine St, Victoria • 250 386 2739 • $$

Canada’s oldest licensed brewpub serves all-natural smoked meats and sausages, perfect companions to the assortment of beers on tap.

4. Canoe

prac_info 450 Swift St • 250 361 1940 • $$

Local organic produce, meat, and wild seafood are on offer at this brewpub, marina, and restaurant, in a historic 1894 waterfront property.

5. Brasserie L’École

prac_info 1715 Government St • 250 475 6260 • Closed L, Sun & Mon • $$

This place dishes up French bistro classics – lamb shank, mussels, and frites – made using local products.

6. Red Fish Blue Fish

prac_info 1006 Wharf St • 250 298 6877 • Closed winter • $

Set in a shipping container on the Inner Harbour, this seasonal canteen-style fish restaurant serves sustainable seafood.

7. Il Terrazzo Ristorante

prac_info 555 Johnson St • 250 361 0028 • $$

Enjoy fine Northern Italian food in the heated courtyard here. Wood-oven-roasted meats and pizzas, pastas, and seafood arrive with a flourish.

8. Pagliacci’s

prac_info 1011 Broad St • 250 386 1662 • $$

Linguine, lasagna, and fettuccine are simple and satisfying at this Italian place. Don’t miss the Pag’s bread.

9. The Noodle Box

prac_info 818 Douglas St • 250 384 1314 • $

Huge portions of noodle and rice dishes come in decorative boxes here, and there are five levels of spiciness to suit every taste.

10. Wildfire Bakery

prac_info 1517 Quadra St, Victoria • 250 381 3473 • $

This family-owned organic bakery and café offers artisan breads, cakes, as well as pastries, with wholesome savories for breakfast and lunch.

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