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Alaska

KENAI FJORDS

ESTABLISHED 1980


This magnificent park is a Tolkien-like land of deep, narrow fjords, crashing glaciers, teeming wildlife, and adventures aplenty. Whether you are standing atop a glacier or paddling through a maze of icebergs, Kenai Fjords never fails to surprise.

Here, on the leeward edge of Alaska’s rugged Kenai Peninsula, sits one of the best arctic maritime parks in the world. The easiest way to explore the watery delights is aboard a guided boat tour. As you cut your way across the icy waters of Resurrection Bay, setting out from the charming fishing village of Seward, you’ll encounter the locals going about their day: porpoises, orca, Stellar sea lions, and humpback whales trolling the rich waters.

To extend the adventure—and really investigate the nooks and crannies of this expansive tract of wilderness—set out on a multiday kayak trip, stopping at public-use cabins or camping on remote beaches, with nothing but the sound of lapping waves and the occasional crash of calving glaciers to keep you company.

Landscape architect

Harding Icefield is another star draw. The fjords were forged 23,000 years ago, give or take, by glacial ice extending down from the 700-sq-mile (1,813-sq-km) ice field. The 40 glaciers here today continue to hew a mix of coves, fjords, and emerald bays bedazzled with ice and bright ocean life.

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Take a trip in September, when the weather is still mild, boat tours are running, and the park is quiet and serene.

Wild on Kenai

By land or by sea, there is a remarkable diversity of wildlife on display. Aboard tour boats, naturalist guides point out the myriad sea mammals in the fjords: playful seals, clicking porpoises, and the fearsome orca. On land, take a gander at mountain goats, bears, martens, and moose.

Orca These mighty predators patrol Prince William Sound during the summer and are best spotted in May and early June. About 250 in 15 pods reside in the waters of the sound.

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Puffins Horned and tufted puffins live in the rookeries here. They are excellent swimmers, but also able fliers—surprising, given their robust bodies. Mating season begins mid-May.

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Mountain goats These climbers are out in spring and summer, seen from boat tours in Resurrection Bay or along Harding Icefield Trail. About 4,000 range across the peninsula.

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Birds Find a seaside café in Seward and let the birds come to you: you’ll likely spy bald eagles, gulls, black oystercatchers, marbled murrelets, peregrines, and the fabled puffins.

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Moose Alaska is the land of the moose, and these majestic animals set up home in the park’s vegetated areas in the summer. Head to the Exit Glacier area and you might spot a calf.

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For landlubbers

The wilds of the Kenai Peninsula await—and half the fun is the journey there. From Anchorage, the Alaska Railroad carries you through beautiful stretches of wilderness to the seaside village of Seward. You’ll want to spend at least a day checking out the murals, quirky art galleries, and seaside restaurants in this picturesque little town perched on the edge of Resurrection Bay.

Most visitors start the adventure with a stop at the Exit Glacier Nature Center, where you learn about ranger-led tours. Exit Glacier, the only area of the park reached by car, is the starting-off point for inland tours. From here, there’s a very easy, accessible 1-mile (1.6-km) loop trail that winds through forest. A small detour on the more strenuous side trail of Glacier Overlook Trail ends at Exit Glacier Overlook and the stunning sight of the glacier and the valley below—the exertion well repaid.

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The fjords are a spectacular sight on a bright summer’s day, with Exit Glacier, as always, an imposing presence in the background

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In miles (877 km), the extent of coastline, with every channel offering new perspectives.

191

The number of bird species that call this arctic parkland home, including the lovable puffin.

A land of plenty

Along the way, cast your eyes up toward the moraines—masses of rock and sediment left in the glaciers’ wake—and the talus fields, which sport even heartier rocks and boulders. In this landscape, you may spot marmots, martens, mink, short-tailed weasels, and the other small creatures that live in the neighborhood. Trek farther into the wilds to see mountain goats, brown and black bears, lynx, moose, gray wolves, and wolverines, along with playfully named creatures like the northern bog lemming and the meadow jumping mouse.

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The alpine huts of Harding Icefield overlook a gray, rocky, almost lunar landscape

The view from above

For an adventure you won’t forget, hike to the top of the world on the Harding Icefield. This spectacular, exacting trail is just 4 miles (6.5 km) long, starting from the valley and passing through meadows and blooming wildflower fields. Don’t underestimate it though—the trail can take a full eight hours round trip to complete, because of its quick rise in elevation and technical scree areas. Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with views of an ice field that stretches to the edge of forever.

A number of tour companies offer glacier tours, where you strap on a pair of crampons, grab an ice axe, and rope in to explore the crevasses, crystal-blue caves, and the wild moonscape of nearby glaciers. Most visitors will have time to see just a small corner of Kenai Fjords National Park, but that “corner” will be something else. Take your pick of natural highs: climb steep mountains, kayak remote coves, fish on river or sea, backpack to the edge of the peninsula, or simply get lost in the solitude, beauty, and bounty of this majestic wilderness.

If you have…

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One day ▷ You’ll want to hit the water right away. Start the tour early in the morning for the flattest water and good wildlife watching. From there, take a quick hop up to Exit Glacier or just explore around Seward, taking in the plentiful local fauna of this rustic fishing village.

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Three days ▷ Hike to the top of Harding Icefield or take on a longer sea kayak and venture farther afield. An unforgettable stay at Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge gets you closer to the icebergs, wildlife, and top-of-the-world nature near Pedersen Glacier.

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A week ▷ This is where real adventure begins. Plan to go for a multiday kayak through Aialik Bay and out to the Holgate Arm. Reserve one or even two nights in a remote public-use cabin, and relax on a private beach looking over Resurrection Bay at the charming Alaska Paddle Inn.

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An aerial view of the fjords shows off their blue beauty to best advantage

Did You Know?

The park protects 1,046 sq miles (2,710 sq km) of fjords and ice fields.

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