Siena offers the sunny disposition of a Gothic brick-built hill town to contrast with historic rival Florence’s stately Renaissance marble. Founded by the Etruscans, Siena developed during the Middle Ages in part due to the Via Francigena pilgrim route that passed through the town. As a thriving medieval merchant and textile town, Siena produced a colourful, courtly Gothic school of painting as well as a building boom, but it all came to a crashing halt when the Black Death of 1348 decimated the population. Florence dominated thereafter, but luckily for today’s visitors this means that, aside from a few Baroque churches, Siena lacked the funds to overhaul its look – its exquisite medieval core is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

TopTen

1. Piazza del Campo

Siena’s half-moon of a public square is one of the loveliest piazze in all of Italy, so rich in sightseeing opportunities that it counts as one of the area’s unmissable sights (see Piazza del Campo). Its broad slope is home to the biannual Palio horse race (see Horseriding Events) as well as daily streams of strollers, readers, picnickers and coffee-drinkers.

TopTen

Siena’s beautiful Piazza del Campo

2. Palazzo Pubblico

prac_info Piazza del Campo • Open 10am–7pm daily • Adm

Siena’s medieval town hall is a brick palace. The rooms were decorated with art from the early 14th-century – including Simone Martini’s Maestà and Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s Allegory of Good and Bad Government. They were turned into the Museo Civico.

3. Duomo

prac_info Piazza del Duomo • Open daily • Adm

This massive Gothic cathedral complex, another unmissable sight (see Siena’s Duomo), is filled with art by Michelangelo, Pisano, Pinturicchio, Bernini, Duccio and Donatello.

TopTen

Siena’s Duomo

4. Pinacoteca Nazionale

prac_info Via S Pietro 29 • Open 8:30am–1:30pm Fri–Mon, 1:15–6:45pm Tue–Thu • Adm

The Pinacoteca boasts an extensive collection of Sienese painting. Seek out the 14th-century Madonnas by Simone Martini and Pietro Lorenzetti and admire Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s Annunciation. Compare Beccafumi’s cartoons (full-sized preparatory sketches on cartone, or “large paper”) with the Duomo’s floor panels and his Mannerist Christ Descending into Limbo to his rival Sodoma’s High Renaissance works.

TopTen

Detail of Lorenzetti’s Annunciation

5. Santa Maria della Scala

prac_info Piazza del Duomo • Open 10am daily (closing times vary, check website) • Adm • www.santamariadellascala.com

This former hospital (see Santa Maria della Scala: Pellegrinaio), which operated from the 9th century to the 1990s, is being transformed into one of Europe’s largest cultural centres. Visitors can tour the oratories, chapels, church and museums. Several spaces host changing exhibitions. Don’t miss the Renaissance frescoes in the Sala del Pellegrino, which depict scenes of hospital life not too different from today – a monkish surgeon doctoring an injured leg, another taking a urine sample, a third dozing as his patient describes symptoms.

6. San Domenico

prac_info Piazza S Domenico • Open Nov–Feb: 8:30am–6pm daily (summer: from 7am daily)

This massive brick church of 1226 contains a portrait of St Catherine by her contemporary and friend Andrea Vanni. The saint’s mummified head and thumb are revered in a chapel decorated with frescoes on her life by Sodoma (1526) and Francesco Vanni. Matteo di Giovanni executed the saintly transept altarpieces.

TopTen

San Domenico church

7. Enoteca I Terzi

prac_info Via dei Termini 7 • 0577 44 329 • Open 11am–1am daily • www.enotecaiterzi.it

Located at the junction of the “thirds” which divides the town, this restaurant is housed in a 12th-century stone tower called “Torre dell’Orsa” or “dei Ballanti”. Its interior features beautiful brick vaults and a cellar dug into tuff. The vast collection of wines here are available for purchase, and tastings can be organized as well.

8. Via Banchi di Sopra

prac_info Via Banchi di Sopra

Siena’s main passeggiata street is lined with palaces. Until Palazzo Pubblico was built, the city council met in the piazza between San Cristofano church and the 13th-century Palazzo Tolomei, now a bank. Up the street, Piazza Salimbeni is flanked by the Renaissance Palazzo Tantucci and Palazzo Spannocchi and the Gothic Palazzo Salimbeni. Together, this group of buildings houses Monte dei Paschi di Siena, the world’s oldest bank (established 1472) and city’s chief employer, and its small, worthy collection of Sienese paintings.

9. Casa di Santa Caterina

prac_info Costa di Sant’Antonio • Church: open 8:30am–1:30pm Fri–Mon, 1:15–6:45pm Tue–Thu

The house in which the saint was born was made a sanctuary in 1466, with a modest Baroque church containing the 12th-century Pisan Crucifixion that gave Catherine the stigmata, a brick loggia (built in 1533 by Baldassare Peruzzi) and a small oratory with Baroque paintings by Francesco Vanni, Il Riccio and Il Pomarancio. The stairs past her cell lead to the Oratorio dell’Oca.

TopTen

Frescoes, Casa di Santa Caterina

10. Archivio di Stato

prac_info Banchi di Sotto 52 • Guided tours only: 8am–1:45pm Mon, Thu–Sat, 8am–5:15pm Tue–Wed

Siena’s state archive (see Archivio di Stato) houses city accounts going back as far as 1258, which may not sound gripping, until you find out that the Sienese were in the habit of commissioning major local artists to decorate the cover of their annual accounts ledger. This unique collection of “Tavolette di Biccherna”, housed in the archive museum, holds charming miniature masterpieces by Francesco di Giorgio and Beccafumi, among others.

TopTen

Ledger cover detail, Archivio di Stato

ST CATHERINE OF SIENA

Italy’s patron saint Caterina Benincasa (1347–80) put on a nun’s veil (she never took vows) after her first vision of Christ at 8; she received the stigmata at 28. Her wisdom won her the ambassadorship of Florence to Pope Gregory XI in Avignon in 1376, where she worked to convince the pope to bring back the papacy to Rome. In 1970, she became the first female Doctor of the Church.

A DAY IN SIENA

TopTen

Morning

Start with the Duomo group, especially if it’s winter, as the museum closes in the afternoon. Explore the Gothic nooks and Baroque crannies of the cathedral itself first, then pop across to Santa Maria della Scala. Don’t skip the Museo dell’ Opera Metropolitana with works by Giovanni Pisano, Donatello and Duccio, plus fabulous views from the façade wall. Finally, descend the stairs to see the Baptistry before heading back around the other side of the Duomo for lunch at Antica Osteria da Divo. Skip dessert so that you can pick it up at the Bini pastry shop, located a quick 5-minute walk away at Via Stalloreggi 91–93, but don’t eat it just yet.

Afternoon

Stroll back up Via Stalloreggi and Via di Città, where there are plenty of attractive shops, on your way to the Piazza del Campo. Either eat your Bini pastries or grab an outdoor table at Bar II Palio (Piazza del Campo 47–9). Order a coffee or glass of wine, and drink in the ambience of one of the loveliest squares in Italy. Then head inside the Palazzo Pubblico for the Museo Civico, which displays Siena’s greatest Gothic art. Exit the Campo on the north side to join the locals for an espresso or Campari at the famed café Nannini before joining the lively evening passeggiata (stroll) on Via Banchi di Sopra.

Shops, Cafés and Wine Bars

1. Nannini

prac_info Via Vittorio Emanuele 9/11 • www.caffetterienannini.com

Siena’s renowned premier café roasts its own coffee and serves delicious pastries.

2. Ceramiche Artistiche Arcaico

prac_info Via di Città 51 & 74–6 • 0577 287 873 • Open 10am–7:30pm daily

Shop for Siena’s best ceramics. The black, white and “burnt sienna” designs are modeled on the Duomo’s floor panels.

TopTen

Ceramiche Artistiche Santa Caterina

3. Trame di Storia

prac_info Via San Pietro 7 • 0577 282 200 • Open 10am–1pm & 1:30–7pm Mon–Fri, 1:30–5pm Sat

Cinzia Gazzarri works her giant looms here, turning out colourful knitwear.

4. Cortecci

prac_info II Campo 30–31 • Open 10am–7:30pm daily • www.corteccisiena.it

Men’s and women’s designer fashion as well as some lesser-known, more affordable labels are on sale here.

TopTen

Mannequin display at Cortecci

5. Antica Drogheria Manganelli

prac_info Via di Città 71–3 • Open 9:30am–7:30pm Mon–Sat • www.drogheriamanganelli.it

Speciality Sienese foods, such as wines, cheeses, preserves, salamis and biscuits, have been sold in this shop since 1879.

6. La Fabbrica delle Candele

prac_info Via dei Pellegrini 11 • Open 9:30am–6pm daily • www.lafabbricadellecandele.com/

This pretty little shop just off Piazza Campo makes candles by hand in the millefiori tradition.

7. II Papiro

prac_info Via di Città 37 • Opening hours vary, check website • www.ilpapirofirenze.eu

A stationery store featuring marbled paper and leather-bound notebooks.

8. Compagnia dei Vinattieri

prac_info Via delle Terme 79 • 0577 236 568 • Open 12:30–2:45pm & 7:15–11pm daily

Innovative dishes are coupled with old favourites like pici cacio e pepe (pasta, pecorino and black pepper) at this tiny enoteca. The wines are excellent too.

9. Aloe & Wolf Gallery

prac_info Via del Porrione 23 • Open by appointment • www.aloewolf.it

This shop tucked behind Piazza del Campo sells vintage clothing and art.

10. Louis Ciocchetti

prac_info Via Banchi di Sopra 91 • Open 10am–8pm daily • www.louisciocchetti.com

Jewellery, watches and Etruscan reproduction jewellery – all made in Italy – are available for sale here.

Restaurants

1. Osteria Le Logge

prac_info Via del Porrione 33 • 0577 48 013 • Closed Sun • €€

This ancient converted pharmacy offers the best traditional cuisine and friendliest service in town.

TopTen

Diners at Osteria Le Logge

2. Antica Osteria da Divo

prac_info Via Franciosa 25/29 • 0577 286 054 • Closed Tue • €€

Medieval ambience, easy-going service and modern Tuscan cooking – including an Italian trend of pairing each main course with a side dish.

3. Osteria di Castelvecchio

prac_info Via di Castelvecchio 65 • 0577 47 093 • Closed Wed (occasionally open for L) • €

The creative Tuscan food is quite refined for the price at this intimate little place. There is a daily selection of vegetarian meals.

4. Grotta di Santa Caterina “da Bagoga”

prac_info Via della Galluzza 26 • 0577 282 208 • Closed Sun D & Mon • €

Run by a former Palio jockey, this cellar-like restaurant specializes in traditional Sienese dishes such as stuffed chicken and wild boar stew.

5. Tre Cristi

prac_info Vicolo di Provenzano 1/7 • 0577 280 608 • Closed Sun • €€

A bastion of the Siena restaurant scene, this charming, traditional trattoria has a focus on fish.

6. Antica Trattoria Papei

prac_info Piazza del Mercato 6 • 0577 280 894 • €

Large, family-run trattoria serving solid Tuscan dishes under beamed ceilings or on the piazza outside. The eatery also has a separate modernly furnished dining room.

7. Gino Cacino di Angelo

prac_info Piazza del Mercato 31 • 0577 223 076 • Open 8am–8pm daily • €

Sandwiches and cold cuts available to eat in or take away. The owner is extremely particular about sourcing the best local ingredients.

8. La Taverna del Capitano

prac_info Via del Capitano 6–8 • 0577 288 094 • €

A hand-scribbled menu of hearty dishes, with laid-back service and funky modern art.

9. La Sosta di Violante

prac_info Via Pantaneto 115 • 0577 43 774 • Closed Sun • €

There is plenty of meat on the menu at this friendly, modern osteria named after a Bavarian princess. An extensive wine list complements the food.

10. Osteria La Chiacchera

prac_info Costa di Sant’ Antonio 4 • 0577 280 631 • €

A remarkably cheap eatery with no cover charge. The cucina povera (“poor people’s cuisine”) and the great desserts change daily.

..................Content has been hidden....................

You can't read the all page of ebook, please click here login for view all page.
Reset
54.81.136.84