LISBON’S
Azulejos
Decorative tiles were first brought to Portugal by the Moors in the 8th century, but became an art form as the uniquely Portuguese azulejos under Manuel I in the 16th century. Ceramic designs brighten buildings throughout Lisbon, adorning everything from historic palaces to modern-day metro stations.
t A Chegança by Luiz Ventura (1994) in Restauradores station
Underground Art Deco
Some of the city’s most fantastic contemporary and Art Deco tiles can be found on the walls of Lisbon’s metro stations. Modernist artist Maria Keil decorated 19 stations, and is credited with reviving widespread enthusiasm for azulejos; head to Alvalade to take in some of her wonderfully colourful panels. Metro do Oriente displays maritime-themed tiles by artists from around the world, and Campo Grande is home to some intriguing 18th-century azulejo figures by Eduardo Nery.
Tiles and Styles
Lisbon’s azulejos vary radically according to the period in which they were painted. Head to Sintra to see some of Portugal’s earliest Moorish-style tiles, where the Palácio Nacional’s Sala dos Árabes is decorated with fine green geometric examples. Back in central Lisbon, the Palácio Fronteira is lined with beautiful 17th-century Delft ceramics, while the church of São Vicente da Fora displays tile panels illustrating the fables of La Fontaine.
Factory Visit
Those keen to see azulejo-making in action should head to Fábrica Sant’Anna, a ceramics factory in the streets behind the Praça do Comércio. Founded in 1741, the factory still produces handmade tiles and other pottery using traditional techniques. Visitors can watch artists paint the tiles by hand, before snapping up a bargain in the attached shop.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Unmissable for any azulejo addict, this museum – housed in the former Madre de Deus convent – provides an overview of the art form’s history and showcases some stunning examples. Moorish tiles through to 20th-century pieces are all on display.