CENTRAL REGION
The Algarve’s central region encompasses the busiest coastal resorts in southern Portugal as well as remote inland hamlets. It is an area of contrasting character, with beautiful golden beaches and wild, rolling hills where a more traditional, rural way of life prevails. History has left its indelible mark throughout this land in the shape of Stone Age megaliths, the remains of Roman villas, Moorish castles and Gothic cathedrals. A strong, proud maritime heritage pervades the coast, evident in the many fine seafood restaurants.
1. Silves
The capital of the Algarve during Moorish rule, Silves overlooks a fertile valley of lemon and orange groves, cork and almond trees and scented meadows. The town’s main draw is its castle: as well as taking an inspiring walk around its battlements, visitors should look out for the vaulted Moorish cistern and traitor’s gate – the battle-scarred doorway through which Dom Paio Peres Correia stormed to recapture the stronghold for Christian forces in 1242. Outside the castle walls is the 13th-century cathedral (see Silves), which was the seat of the Algarve see until 1580.
2. Albufeira
Albufeira’s claim as the most popular holiday destination in the country is no idle boast. It is the biggest and most energetic resort (see Albufeira) in the Algarve, and anyone looking for a night out should make a midsummer beeline to the area dubbed “The Strip”. A forest of neon lights and late-night entertainment, The Strip is known for its party atmosphere, numerous bars, restaurants and clubs. In the daytime, you can catch up on sleep on any one of Albufeira’s smooth, golden beaches.
Praia do Inatel, a popular beach in Albufeira
3. Faro
Faro is often overlooked by visitors to the Algarve who tend to head straight for the beach resorts. This is a shame because its Old Town quarter is a particularly enchanting ensemble of centuries-old architecture and fine museums. Among them is the former convent of Nossa Senhora da Assunção, which houses the excellent archaeological museum.
4. Alte
Described as “a delightful snapshot of the real Algarve” in many a tourist brochure, Alte is indeed a picture of beauty and serenity. The little village with its whitewashed façades, cobbled streets, filigree chimney pots and rural charm appears to have little time for the 21st century, but always greets visitors with a warm smile. The central attraction is the picnic spot near the stream. The area is also renowned for its handicrafts and colourful folklore.
5. Almancil
One of the most resplendent of all the Algarve’s treasures is the 18th-century Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço, just outside Almancil. Outstanding azulejo panels in the church depict episodes in the life of St Lawrence, while the highly ornate cupola is a breathtaking exercise in trompe l’oeil – indeed, some say it is the best example of its kind outside Rome.
Almancil azulejo
6. Loulé
This cheerful market town (see Loulé) is renowned as a centre of traditional handicrafts. The copper, leather and ceramic goods hammered out in the dozens of workshops dotted around its streets are some of the most sought after in the Algarve. These can be purchased at Loulé’s market (see Mãe Soberana, Loulé), along with an amazing selection of fruit and vegetables, fresh fish, herbs, cheeses, spices, honey, bottled liqueurs and sugared fig cakes. Loulé was an important Moorish settlement, and remnants of Muslim rule still exist.
7. Salir
In springtime, wild flowers of every hue blanket the meadows around this hilltop hamlet, with its ruined 12th-century Moorish castle (see Salir) and small museum. The terraced battlements are now reclaimed to ingenious effect by enterprising locals who use them as vegetable plots. The short walk around the castle foundations is rewarded with an inviting panorama over the limestone massif of Rocha da Pena. The area is a well-known nesting site for the huge eagle owl. Naturalists may also be lucky enough to spy a common genet or an Egyptian mongoose.
8. Portimão
Portimão’s esplanade is lined with pretty gardens and a variety of restaurants and cafés. This is the departure point for sightseeing cruises along the Arade River; it is also the location of the excellent Museu de Portimão. Nearby are the Autódromo Internacional do Algarve, a world-class racing track, and Ocean Revival Park, a unique artificial reef made of sunken warships, perfect for diving.
9. Vilamoura
With its glamorous reputation, Vilamoura is the resort choice for yachters and minor celebrities. The boardwalk is also the jumping-off point for coastal cruises on graceful schooners. The region as a whole is of great environmental and historical significance – the wetland surrounding the resort is a protected nature reserve, and the Museu Cerro da Vila is one of the most important Roman sites in Portugal.
Marina at Vilamoura
10. Ferragudo
Ferragudo has admirably managed to avoid the more garish trappings of tourism and looks better for it. Sitting at the mouth of the Rio Arade, this attractive fishing village tumbles down to a busy little quayside tightly packed with fishermen’s huts, artisan’s workshops and one or two truly memorable seafood restaurants (see Sueste, Ferragudo). The maze of steep alleys lead up to a handsome church. Praia Grande is a generous swathe of sand, which is popular sunbathing territory, and also the location of a big windsurfing school.
Castle of São João, near Ferragudo
THE CAROB BEAN
The versatile carob bean tree is found throughout the Caldeirão mountain region. The beans are sometimes used as animal feed but also as a chocolate substitute. Pods can be ground and mixed with wheat flour to make tasty black bread. The gum is used in the textile and pharmaceutical industries.
A TOUR OF VILLAGES
Morning
An ideal starting point for your drive is Loulé where the highlight is most definitely its market. An early start will ensure you get the best choice of the produce. Aim to arrive at about 9am and allow an hour for browsing the stalls.
Order a coffee in Café Calcinha (Praça da República 67) before jumping in the car and heading north on the N396 to the quaint hamlet of Querença with its whitewashed church and ancient stone cross. Take time to soak up the rural atmosphere, perhaps over a snack, at one of the cafés overlooking the square.
Head north for Salir on the M510, a meandering drive that weaves through woodland, before turning west on the N124. Explore the castle ruins and admire the superb views of the Rocha da Pena limestone plateau. If you have arrived on a weekday, the little archaeological museum next to the castle will be open.
Afternoon
Continue on the N124 to Alte for lunch, perhaps at one of the traditional cafés located near the church. Then allow an hour to explore one of the Algarve’s prettiest villages and shop for traditional handicrafts.
End the afternoon by continuing to Paderne, reached by travelling west on the N124 and then south on the N270. Follow the signs to visit the 12th-century Moorish castle (see Paderne).
The Best of the Rest
1. Estômbar
From this village follow the signs to Sítio das Fontes and discover a delightful hideaway picnic spot overlooking the Arade river. An old watermill can be seen among the beautiful surroundings.
2. Forte e Capela de Nossa Senhora da Rocha
Perched on a promontory, the tiny 15th-century chapel of Our Lady of the Rock is noted for its unusual octagonal cupola. The clifftop views take in eccentric rock formations and a beautiful golden beach.
Capela de Nossa Senhora da Rocha
3. Querença
A charming, hill-top hamlet slumbering in isolated beauty and crowned by the simple Igreja Nossa Senhora da Assunção.
4. Barragem do Arade
Birdsong echoes around this huge, picturesque reservoir, which makes a wonderful picnic spot. The rolling countryside is great hiking and mountain-biking territory.
5. Paderne
A world away from the villas and beaches of the Algarve coast. Paderne’s faded, timeworn charm is mirrored in the village by some lovely 19th-century buildings. Several friendly café-restaurants dotted around the vicinity provide welcome refreshment.
6. São Bartolomeu de Messines
Poet João de Deus (1830–96) is synonymous with this quiet rural town. The church has some amazing twisted sandstone pillars, which are unique in the Algarve.
7. Calçadinha Roman Road
Interpretation Centre: Rua do Matadouro 2, São Brás de Alportel; (289) 840 004; 9:30am–1pm & 2–5:30pm Tue–Sat
The Calçadinha, or cobbled street, is 1,480 m (4,855 ft) in length. It was part of the region’s Roman road network and can still be walked.
8. Praia do Carvoeiro
This picturesque beach is wedged between steep-sided cliffs and is framed by rows of holiday apartments and restaurants. It is a popular spot for families in the summer, and for golfers during the winter months.
9. Alcantarilha
This village is known for its bone chapel, where the skeletal remains of 1,500 former parishioners cover the ceilings and walls.
10. Alcalar
The Alcalar burial chambers are a series of Megalithic tombs. The drive here is a delight in itself, passing through rows of ancient oak and olive trees.
Beaches
1. Praia da Galé, Armação de Pêra
Two half-moons of smooth white sand make up this beach, interrupted only by some unusual outcrops of ochre-splashed sandstone.
2. Praia da Oura, Albufeira
Located at the bottom of “The Strip”, this is a hugely popular beach in summer, and attractive too, with its patches of yellow sandstone rock.
3. Praia de Faro, Ilha de Faro
One of the narrow barrier islands that shelter the Ria Formosa lagoon, this giant sand spit is a magnet for Faro residents, and for those visitors wishing to escape the city heat.
4. Praia da Rocha, Portimão
One of the most famous beaches in the Algarve, this impressive swathe of golden sand stretches out in front of russet-coloured cliffs.
5. Praia de São Rafael, Albufeira
Some extraordinary rock formations protrude from the shallows of this pretty bay, fringed with fine sand.
Rock formations at Praia de São Rafael
6. Praia dos Pescadores, Albufeira
This beach is named for the colourful fishing boats that between use, were once left on the sand (see Albufeira). The vessels now moor up in the marina.
Beachgoers at Praia dos Pescadores
7. Praia da Senhora da Rocha
Warm, clear waters lap this inviting envelope of sand, framed between high cliffs. The beach is overlooked by the chapel, Forte e Capela de Nossa Senhora da Rocha.
8. Praia da Falésia, Olhos de Água
A long, narrow beach that never gets too crowded, even in summer. It is exposed to fresh southwesterly winds, which attracts the windsurfing set. A good option if you are in search of some peace and quiet.
9. Praia de Vilamoura
The beach at Vilamoura enjoys an enviable location right next to the resort. Its waters are calmed by the harbour breakwater, and the place is often used as a backdrop by fashion photographers.
10. Praia de Vale do Lobo
This select beachfront is patronized by guests staying at the nearby Vale do Lobo resort. There are some excellent bar-cafés close by.
Golf Courses
1. Pine Cliffs
Praia da Falésia, Albufeira • (289) 500 113
This 9-hole, par 33 clifftop course is set against a spectacular Atlantic Ocean backdrop. The last hole is named “Devil’s Parlour” (see Pine Cliffs).
Panoramic view of the Pine Cliffs golf course
2. San Lorenzo
Quinta do Lago • (289) 396 522
This magnificent, 18-hole, par 72 course is considered by World Golf magazine to be one of Europe’s top five golf courses (see San Lorenzo).
3. Quinta do Lago South
Almancil • (289) 390 705
Quinta do Lago South, a famous championship course, has hosted the Portuguese Open several times. It is notable for four challenging par 5 holes (see Quinta do Lago South).
4. Vale do Lobo
Almancil • (289) 353 465
The Royal Course incorporates the world-famous par 3 16th hole with an extensive carry over cliffs. The Ocean Course follows an undulating layout.
5. Vilamoura Golf Courses
Vilamoura • (289) 310 333
The Old Course, Pinhal, Laguna, Millennium and Victoria are 18-hole, par 72 layouts, in beautifully landscaped settings.
6. Amendoeira Faldo & O’Connor Jnr
Amendoeira Golf Resort, EN 529, Alcântarilha • (289) 310 333
The Amendoeira Golf Resort has two acclaimed 18-hole layouts – designed by golfers Sir Nick Faldo and Christy O’Connor Jnr.
7. Vale da Pinta Course, Pestana Carvoeiro
Pestana Golf & Resort, Carvoeiro • (282) 340 900
An ancient olive tree spreads over one of the greens of the 18-hole Pinta course, while the 18-hole Gramacho layout has some heavily bunkered greens.
8. Pinheiros Altos
Quinta do Lago • (289) 359 910
An independent 27-hole, par 72 course built on the Quinta do Lago estate, embracing part of the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa.
9. Vila Sol Golf
Morgadinhos, Vilamoura • (289) 320 370
Known for its water hazards, this 27-hole, par 72 course is a challenge for golfers of all handicap levels.
10. Balaia Golf
Albufeira • (289) 570 200
This executive 9-hole, par 27 course (see Balaia) is built on undulating terrain, punctuated with umbrella pine and cork oak trees.
Places to Shop
1. Loulé Market
Praça da República, Loulé • Open 7am–3pm Mon–Sat
This market sells fruit and vegetables, fish, herbs, spices, cheeses, flowers and local handicrafts (see Loulé Market).
2. Forum Algarve Shopping Centre
EN 125, Sítio das Figuras, Faro • Open 10am–midnight daily
With an architectural design inspired by Faro’s historical centre, this is the region’s biggest shopping mall.
3. Algarve Shopping Centre
EN 125, Guia • Open 10am–midnight daily
A modern mall with national and international chains, a cinema and a food hall (see Algarve Shopping, Guia).
4. Quinta Shopping Mall
Quinta do Lago • Open 10am–7pm daily (to midnight Jul & Aug)
An elegant open-air mall with several designer boutiques, sports outlets and restaurants (see Quinta Shopping, Quinta do Lago).
5. Sardinha
Largo D. Pedro I, 3, Loulé • (289) 512 936 • Open 10am–7pm Mon–Fri (to 3pm on Sat); Closed Sun
The humble sardine is just one source of inspiration for the many souvenirs sold at this quirky studio.
6. Quinta da Penina
Rua da Angola Lote 2, Loja B+C, Portimão • (282) 491 070 • Guided tours only: advance booking required • www.vinhosportimao.com
Wine tastings and tours are held regularly at this excellent winery. Visitors can also make the most of discounted prices at the Quinta da Penina shop.
7. Quarteira Fish Market
Largo do Peixe, Quarteira • Open 8:30am–1:30pm Mon–Sat
The most famous market of its kind on the south coast; arrive early for the best choice of fish and seafood.
8. Porches Pottery
EN 125, Porches, Lagoa • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat
One of the first commercial ceramic outlets (see Porches Pottery) in the region.
Urn, Porches Pottery
9. Gigagarden
Guia, EN 125 • Open 9am–7:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm Sun
This sprawling garden centre displays a variety of shrubs, trees and cacti.
10. Apolónia Supermarket
Avenida 5 de Outubro, 271, Almancil • Open 8am–8pm daily (summer: to 9pm)
The best supermarket in the country for imported produce that is difficult to buy elsewhere in Portugal.
The bakery at Apolónia Supermarket
Café Bars
1. Casa da Isabel, Portimão
Rua Direita 61, Portimão • Closed Wed • www.acasadaisabel.com • €
This wonderful little teahouse is hidden behind the tiled façade of a Portimão townhouse. The cakes, teas and coffees are said to be the town’s best.
2. Maktostas, Faro
Rua do Alportel 29, Faro • (916) 300 517 • €
Set on a pretty square in a peaceful corner of the town, this characterful spot serves seafood, traditional meat dishes, vegetarian and vegan fare.
3. Café Calcinha, Loulé
Praça da República 67, Loulé • (964) 066 842 • €
Enjoy a cup of strong Portuguese coffee at Calcinha. Serving caffeine shots since 1927, it’s the town’s oldest café.
4. Casa da Fonte, Albufeira
Rua João de Deus 7, Albufeira • www.restaurantebarcasadafonte.pt • €€
With its urban decor, friendly service and great grilled fish and meat dishes, this is a must visit spot for lunch in Albufeira.
5. Pastelaria Rosa, Silves
Largo do Município, Silves • Closed Sun • www.darosa.pt • €
A superb spot to try traditional Algarve pastries and great coffee.
Elegant setting at Pastelaria Rosa, Silves
6. Agua Mel, Alte
Largo José Cavaco Veira, Alte • Closed Sun • €
A fine retreat after a day in the mountains, this café provides far-reaching views to accompany its coffees, snacks and light lunches.
7. Ramires, Guia
Rua 25 de Abril, Guia • (289) 561 232 • No veg dishes • €
Diners have been flocking to this casual eatery since 1964 for what’s said to be the best chicken piri-piri in the Algarve.
8. Café Inglês, Silves
Rua do Castelo 11, Silves • (282) 442 585 • €
Located below the castle, this café offers snacks plus mains and acts as a venue for live music, including fado.
9. Pigs and Cows, Faro
Rua Baptista Lopes 57, Faro • Closed Tue & Wed • www.pigsandcowsalgarve.com • €€
The multi-cuisine menu and seasonal fare at this café is prepared with locally sourced ingredients.
10. Mavala Osteria Italiana, Faro
Largo da Madalena 10, Faro • Closed Mon & Sun • (963) 100 473 • €€
The gourmet pastas, meat dishes, seafood and desserts make this an ideal stop for a quick lunch or less hurried evening dinner.
Restaurants
1. Casa Velha, Quinta do Lago
Quinta do Lago • (289) 394 983 • D only • Closed Sun • €€€
It’s easy to see why this fabulous dining spot has gained a listing in the Michelin Guide. Expect top-notch French cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and prices to match.
2. Dom Carlos, Albufeira
Rua Alves Correia 100, Albufeira • (961) 475 618 • Closed Mon & Tue • €€€
The tasty cuisine at this formal restaurant, one of Albufeira’s finest places for a special dinner, will have you coming back for more. It also serves a fantastic British-style Sunday roast.
3. Vila Joya, Albufeira
Praia da Galé, Estrada da Galé, Albufeira • (289) 591 795 • Closed Wed • www.vilajoya.com • €€€
Set on the Atlantic coast, Albufeira’s top restaurant serves gourmet cuisine and has an impressive wine list.
4. Veneza, Paderne
Estrada de Paderne 560a • (289) 367 129 • Closed 15–31 May & 15–31 Oct • No veg dishes • €
A rural eatery famed for its rustic menu and vast selection of wine.
5. Vila Adentro, Faro
Praça Dom Afonso III 17, Faro • (933) 052 173 • €€
This old town favourite is decked out in ancient azulejos, creating the setting for a memorable dining experience. The menu features one of the best traditional cataplanas in town and delicious local desserts.
6. O Charneco, Estômbar
Rua Joaquim Manuel Charneco 3 • (282) 431 113 • Closed Sun • No credit cards • €
Diners at this lively restaurant enjoy a daily selection of seven courses of delicious regional fare, accompanied by a bottle of the house wine.
Spread at O Charneco, Estômbar
7. Bocage, Loulé
Rua Bocage 14, Loulé • (289) 412 416 • Closed Sun • €
This long-standing establishment serves authentic Portuguese dishes including expertly grilled fish and meat complemented by exclusive local wine.
8. Sueste, Ferragudo
Rua da Ribeira 91, Ferragudo • (282) 461 592 • Closed Sun & Jan • No veg dishes • €
Known for its range of seafood dishes, Sueste has its best tables on the quayside. The interior is set in a traditional Algarvian fishing cottage.
9. O Barradas, Silves
Venda Nova, Palmeirinha, Silves • (282) 443 308 • Closed Wed • €€
Succulent meat, fresh fish and great service ensure a memorable dinner.
10. Faz Gostos, Faro
Rua do Castelo 13, Faro • (914) 133 668 • €€€
This trendy Faro restaurant serves innovative meat and fish dishes using many locally sourced ingredients.
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50