AROUND PASEO DEL PRADO
This imposing tree-lined avenue, adorned with fountains and sculptures, is home to no fewer than three world-class art galleries: the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, the Museo Nacional del Prado and the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza. In the 18th century, the “prado” was a meadow crossed by a stream, but the rustic surroundings were deceptive, as the area had acquired an unsavoury reputation for muggings and amorous encounters. The solution, devised by Carlos IV, was a stately new boulevard between Plaza de Cibeles and Plaza de Atocha, lined with buildings devoted to the pursuit of scientific investigation. Work began in 1775 on a museum of natural history, which is now the Prado; the botanical gardens and observatory; and a medical school, which is now the Reina Sofía.
1. Museo Nacional del Prado
One of the world’s finest art galleries, the Prado houses a vast collection, including Spanish paintings by Francisco Goya.
2. Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
In contrast to the Prado, this gallery (see Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía) is devoted to the very best of 20th- and 21st-century art.
3. Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza
What began as a private collection is now a superb public museum with some of the best European art spanning the past 700 years (see Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza).
Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza
4. Plaza de Cibeles
One of Madrid’s busiest traffic intersections also boasts the city’s most famous landmark. The Cibeles Fountain was designed by Ventura Rodríguez and depicts the goddess of nature and abundance riding her chariot, pulled by a pair of prancing lions. The water-spouting cherubs were added at the end of the 19th century. The most striking architectural monument on the square is the over-the-top Palacio de Cibeles, now the Madrid Town Hall. Opposite is the Neo-Baroque Palacio de Linares, one of the city’s finest 19th-century buildings, and now the Casa de América. On the corner of Calle Recoletos, partly hidden from view by its steeply sloping gardens, is the former Palacio de Buenavista, commissioned in 1777 for the Duchess of Alba, a legendary beauty and one-time lover of artist Francisco Goya. Today it is home to the General Army Barracks.
The imposing façade of Palacio de Cibeles on Plaza de Cibeles
5. Parque del Retiro
This much-loved city park (see Parque del Retiro) is a constant source of pleasure to Madrileños, especially at weekends and during the hot summer months. There are open spaces to enjoy, as well as wooded areas and formal gardens.
6. Plaza de la Lealtad
Madrid Stock Exchange: Plaza de la Lealtad 1; tours by appointment: noon on Thu; email [email protected] to book
This leafy square honours the fallen heroes of the 1808 uprising against the French (see p47). The ashes of the rebel leaders, immortalized in Goya’s painting (see Museum Guide), were interred in the funerary urns beneath the obelisk when the project was completed in 1840. The Neo-Classical building that occupies the north side of the square is the Madrid Stock Exchange, designed by Enrique María Repullés in 1884. Visitors may admire the Corinthian-columned façade at any time, but those wishing to see the trading floor (known for its parquet flooring, painted vaults, stained-glass ceiling and gilded clock) will have to join the midday guided tour.
Plaza de la Lealtad
7. Mandarin Oriental Ritz
Plaza de la Lealtad 5
The Ritz opened in 1910 and the inauguration was attended by King Alfonso XIII, who had backed the project after complaining about the lack of quality accommodation in his capital. French architect Charles Mewes’ Neo-Classical building is surprisingly understated from the outside, but the interior is opulent. Features include handwoven carpets from the Royal Tapestry factory and the belle époque dining room. In 2020, it was meticulously restored by the Mandarin Oriental Group.
8. Real Jardín Botánico
Plaza de Murillo 2 • 914 20 30 17 • Open 10am–dusk daily • Closed 1 Jan & 25 Dec • Adm (free Tue after 5pm)
These gardens were inaugurated in 1781 as a centre for botanical research. Beyond the main entrance is the herbarium, with aromatic, culinary and medicinal plants. The central terrace arranges plants by family, species and genealogical history. Look out for an ancient tree nicknamed “El Pantalones”, resembling a pair of inverted trousers. More than 1,200 tropical and sub-tropical species are cultivated in the Exhibition Greenhouse, opened in 1993. The Villanueva Pavilion, which hosts art and photography exhibitions, and the arbours date from the 18th century. There is also a lovely café with a terrace and a gift shop.
Visitors enjoying the flowers in bloom at the Real Jardín Botánico
9. Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas
Calle de Montalbán 12 • 915 32 64 99 • Open 9:30am–3pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun daily; Sep–Jun: 5–8pm Thu • Closed 1 Jan, 6 Jan, 1 May, 24 Dec, 25 Dec & 31 Dec • Adm (free Thu & Sat afternoons, Sun) • www.culturaydeporte.gob.es/mnartesdecorativas
Housed In a 19th-century mansion overlooking the Retiro is this compelling collection of furniture, ceramics, silverware and glassware from the royal factory of La Granja, as well as jewellery, tapestries, musical instruments, clocks and toys. Arranged chronologically over four floors are reconstructed rooms illustrating Spanish domestic life from the 16th to the early 20th centuries. On the fourth floor is the recreated Valencian kitchen, decorated with over 1,600 hand-painted azulejo tiles. The below-stairs life of an 18th-century palace is brought to life to show servants struggling with trays of pies and desserts while the cats steal fish.
10. CaixaForum
Paseo del Prado 36 • 913 30 73 00 • Open 10am–8pm daily • Closed 25 Dec, 1 & 6 Jan • Adm to exhibitions (free 15 & 18 May, 9 Nov) • www.caixaforum.es/madrid
It’s hard to miss this cultural centre, which is set in a stunningly converted power station, crowned by a web of cast iron. Outside, there’s a vertical garden, and inside are galleries for temporary exhibitions. Concerts, film screenings and talks are held here. A stylish fourth-floor café offers a close-up view of the cast-iron shell.
CIBELES VERSUS NEPTUNE
These two monuments have earned a place in city folklore and have come to symbolize the rivalry between the city’s two main football clubs, Real Madrid and Atlético Madrid. When Real secures a trophy, the team and fans head for the Cibeles statue on Plaza de Cibeles; when it is the turn of Atlético, Neptune, on Plaza Canovas del Castillo, is the focus for celebrations. Both fountains have suffered damage over time so police now impose a cordon.
A DAY ON THE PASEO DEL PRADO
MORNING
Begin at Plaza de Cibeles and take a quick peek at the palatial central hall of the Palacio de Cibeles. Plans to redirect traffic away from the Paseo del Prado have been frustrated, but the central boulevard still provides a pleasant walk, with plenty of shade in summer. Follow in the footsteps of Hemingway or Dali and enjoy a coffee at the vibrant yet relaxed atmosphere of 1912 Museo Bar (Plaza de las Cortes 7).
Continue past the Neo-Classical façade of the Museo Nacional del Prado and you’ll come to Plaza de Murillo and the Real Jardín Botánico. Allow at least an hour here to make the most of the verdant tranquillity.
Upon leaving the garden, cross the Paseo del Prado and double back to Plaza Cánovas del Castillo and Ventura Rodríguez’s splendid Neptune Fountain. The little side streets here are crammed with plenty of tempting tapas bars and restaurants. You could try La Platería for a light lunch.
AFTERNOON
After lunch, take a small detour into Plaza de las Cortes, to admire the portico of the Congreso de los Diputados. Return to Paseo del Prado and on your left is the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza which will occupy the rest of the afternoon. Take the central boulevard to go back to Plaza de Cibeles, but before that head to Estado Puro at Plaza Canovas del Castillo for innovative tapas.
The Best of the Rest
1. Real Fábrica de Tapices
Calle Fuenterrabía 2 • 914 34 05 50 • Open 10am–2pm Mon–Fri; guided tours: 10am, 11am, noon & 1pm; book ahead • Adm • www.realfabricadetapices.com
Artisans of the Royal Tapestry Factory (see Real Fábrica de Tapices) still weave using the original 18th-century wooden looms.
Real Fábrica de Tapices
3. Parroquia de San Jerónimo el Real
Calle de Moreto 4 • Open Jul–mid-Sep: 10am–1pm & 6–8:30pm daily; mid-Sep–Jul: 10am–1pm & 5–8pm daily
The Castilian parliament, the Cortes, met in this historic church in 1510.
4. Casa Museo Lope de Vega
Calle de Cervantes, 11 • 914 29 92 16 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (last tour 5pm) • www.casamuseolopedevega.org
This museum, set in Lope de Vega’s house, commemorates his life.
5. Museo Naval
Paseo del Prado 5 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun (Aug: to 3pm) • www.armada.mde.es
Among the highlights here is a 16th-century Flemish galleon and the first map of the New World.
6. Museo del Ferrocarril
Paseo de las Delicias 61 • 915 39 00 85 • Opening times vary, check website • Adm • www.museodelferrocarril.org
The railway museum has a wonderful collection of old steam locomotives on display and is the departure point for the Tren de la Fresa.
7. CentroCentro
Plaza de Cibeles 1 • Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.centrocentro.org
Madrid’s former main post office now houses a cultural centre CentroCentro with a spectacular viewing terrace.
8. Invernadero de Atocha
The train station combines a sleek modern concourse and a charming 1880s glass-and-iron construction, now housing a lush garden (see Invernadero de Atocha).
9. Observatorio Astronómico
Calle Alfonso XII 3 • 915 06 12 61, 915 97 95 64 • Open by appointment: Fri–Sun; check website • Adm • www.ign.es
Marvel at the historic telescopes and other astronomical instruments here.
Observatorio Astronómico’s dome
10. Congreso de los Diputados
Calle de Floridablanca s/n • 913 90 65 25 • Open by appointment: noon Fri, 10:30am–12:30pm Sat (tours in Spanish) • www.congreso.es
Admire the Renaissance-style sculptures as well as the portico of the congress building.
Places to Eat
1. Matilda Café Cantina
Calle Almadén 15 • 914 29 80 29 • Closed D, Tue & Wed • €
This cosy place serves homemade cakes and lunches. Enjoy the classical music while you dine.
2. Restaurante Palacio de Cibeles
Plaza de Cibeles 1, 6th floor • 915 23 14 54 • €€€
Award-winning chef Adolfo Muñoz prepares innovative dishes using local ingredients. The terrace offers beautiful views of Madrid and the Cibeles fountain.
Restaurante Palacio de Cibeles
3. Horcher
Calle de Alfonso XII 6 • 915 22 07 31 • Closed Sat L, Sun • €€€
One of Madrid’s most exclusive restaurants specializing in Central European cuisine. Jacket required.
Luxurious interiors of Horcher
4. Restaurante Terraza El Botánico
Calle Ruiz de Alarcón 27 • 914 20 23 42 • €
Close to the Botanical Gardens, this elegant, family-run restaurant offers delicious traditional Spanish cuisine.
5. Arzábal Restaurant
Edificio Sabatini, Museo Nacional Centre de Arte Reina Sofía, Calle de Santa Isabel 52 • 915 28 68 28 • €€
This restaurant in the Reina Sofía museum offers fresh seasonal cuisine and has a lovely outdoor terrace.
6. Los Gatos
Calle de Jesús 2 • 914 29 30 67 • €
With quirky decor, this unique tapas bar (see Los Gatos) is a cool place for quick bites and beers.
7. Estado Puro
Plaza Cánovas del Castillo 4 • 917 79 30 36 • €€
Indulge in an early lunch on the terrace of this restaurant (see Estado Puro) set close to the Prado and Thyssen museum. On offer are innovative tapas and local wines
8. La Platería
Moratín 49 • 914 29 17 22 • €
Situated off the Paseo del Prado, there’s a terrace where you can snack on Castilian dishes such as jamón Ibérico and goat’s cheese while you watch the world go by.
9. Viridiana
Calle Juan de Mena 14 • 915 31 10 39 • €€€
Master chef Abraham García’s bistro offers a menu of traditional Spanish dishes and a great wine list (see Viridiana).
10. Bodegas Rosell
Calle General Lacy 14 • 914 67 84 58 • Closed Easter, Jun–Oct: Mon L, Nov–May: Sun D & Mon • Aug • www.bodegasrosell.es • €
This classic Madrid tavern (see Bodegas Rosell) serves great value wines and generous portions of splendid tapas. Booking is recommended.
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
€ under €35 €€ €35–€70 €€€ over €70