Prague’s city centre can keep most visitors occupied for days, but if you’re staying outside the city’s heart, or if you have the time to explore beyond the capital’s walls, the outlying areas offer plenty of surprises. Over the centuries, the various rulers of Prague have used the surrounding countryside as their personal playground, building impressive castles, palaces and parks to which they could escape the often claustrophobic streets and winding alleyways of the city. Even the Communists have left their own kind of functional mark on the area, with useful edifices, towers and exhibition spaces. From the peaceful parklands of Vyšehrad and the social atmosphere of Letná, to the noisy nightlife of Žižkov and the intriguing gardens of Holešovice and Troja, Greater Prague has a diversity that will fulfil almost any requirements you might have.

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1. Vyšehrad

prac_info Metro Vyšehrad

The former fortress of Vyšehrad is steeped in legend. Bedřich Smetana paid tribute to the second seat of the Přemyslid dynasty that resided here in the 10th century in his opera Libuše and in his rousing work Mávlast. He is buried here in the National Cemetery, which is also home to the Slavín Monument (see Vltava).

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Smetana’s grave, Vyšehrad

2. Prague Zoo

prac_info U Trojského zámku 120, Troja • Check website for opening hours • Adm • www.zoopraha.cz

This zoo (see Prague Zoo) is the second most popular attraction in the country after Prague Castle. Spread across a vast area, it is home to numerous bird and animal species, including probably the world’s largest Giant Salamander.

3. Vinohrady

Originally the royal vineyards, Vinohrady today is a gently rolling residential neighbourhood. The central square, Náměstí Míru, features the Neo-Gothic Church of St Ludmila and the Art Nouveau Vinohrady Theatre. For a bit of peace and greenery visit the Havlíčkovy sady.

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Church of St Ludmila, Vinohrady

4. Holešovice

Home to the National Gallery’s Trade Fair Palace, which holds the gallery’s collection of modern and contemporary art, this once-bustling warehouse district is being redeveloped to make a comeback. Motor car enthusiasts will love the National Technical Museum, with its exhibits of Czech interwar vehicles such as Škodas, as well as other vintage vehicles.

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Cars, National Technical Museum

5. Letná Park

A grand staircase leads from the Vltava riverbank opposite the Josefov quarter to a giant metronome. The needle marks time where a mammoth statue (see Letná Plinth) of Joseph Stalin once stood before it was blown up in 1962. The surrounding park echoes with the clatter of skateboards and barking dogs. Travelling circuses sometimes set up in the open fields, but Letná’s popular beer garden is probably its biggest draw.

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Statue in Letná Park

6. Stromovka

King Ottokar II established the royal game park here in the 13th century; it’s been a public garden since 1804 (stromovka means “place of trees”). Stroll or skate through the ancient park by day and visit the planetarium by night. The fish ponds (see Stromovka) were a creation of Rudolf II – the emperor drilled a tunnel under Letná in the 16th century to bring in water to supply them.

7. Troja Château

prac_info U Trojského zámku1, Troja • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Thu, Sat & Sun (1–6pm Fri) • Adm • www.en.ghmp.cz

One of the most striking summer palaces in Prague, Troja Château was built in the late 17th century by Jean-Baptiste Mathey for Count Sternberg. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and two orangeries, the château has a good collection of 19th-century art and sculpture.

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The classical façade of Troja Château

8. Výstaviště

The fairgrounds here were originally built at the end of the 19th century to host trade shows, which are still held at the Industrial Palace and Křižík’s Pavilions. There’s an amusement park with rides for the kids, an indoor swimming pool, an ice-hockey rink at the Tipsport Arena and a Planetarium. If you want to see the original statues that graced Charles Bridge, pay a visit to the Lapidárium, where they are preserved. A visit to the country’s largest aquarium, Mořský Svět, is an excellent option on a rainy day.

9. National Memorial on the Vítkov Hill

prac_info Žižkov • Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun • Adm • www.nm.cz

The one-eyed Hussite general Jan Žižka defeated invading crusaders in 1420 atop the hill where his giant equestrian statue now stands in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Erected in 1929, the monument serves as a memorial to all those who suffered in the Czech struggle for independence. The Communists co-opted the building, and for a time it served as President Klement Gottwald’s mausoleum (see National Memorial on the Vítkov Hill).

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National Memorial on the Vítkov Hill

10. Žižkov TV Tower

prac_info Mahlerovy sady 1 • Open 9am–midnight • Adm • www.towerpark.cz

The Prague TV Tower is the highest building in Prague, reaching 216 m (709 ft) in height. However it didn’t begin transmitting until after the Velvet Revolution. Three thematically different “capsules” at the tower (see Žižkov TV Tower) offer unforgettable views of the city, especially at sunset. Outside the tower, there are ten giant sculptures of babies by Czech artist David Černý.

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Žižkov TV Tower

ŽIŽKOV

This working-class neighbourhood came into existence when city fathers divided the expanding Královské Vinohrady district. The inhabitants of the area thumbed their noses at Habsburg rule and named their new district after the Hussite warrior. Žižkovites’ contrary nature runs deep, even having a separatist movement which promotes an independent Republic of Žižkov. An alternative culture thrives around the Akropolis club and the Divus artists collective, and, increasingly, numerous ethnic restaurants are bringing an international flavour to the area.

THREE AFTERNOON WALKS

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Afternoon One

See Vyšehrad late in the day, but only if the weather looks promising. Take the metro to the Vyšehrad stop at the Congress Centre, from where you have marvellous views of Prague’s spires. Walk west along Na Bučance and enter the fortifications through the Tábor Gate. Once inside the walls, you’ll find historic constructions everywhere you turn, such as the lovely Romanesque Rotunda of St Martin. Enjoy the park at your leisure but get to the westernmost edge of the compound atop Vyšehrad’s rocky outcrop in time for sunset.

AFTERNOON TWO

Žižkov and Vinohrady are also best seen in the second half of the day. From Florenc metro, climb to the National Memorial on the Vítkov Hill for a wonderful view, then compare it to the one you get from the Žižkov TV Tower. Take a stroll as far into Vinohrady as your feet will permit you, but save your strength: you’ll need it for a night out pubbing and clubbing.

AFTERNOON THREE

Energetic and keen walkers can manage to see Stromovka and Troja in half a day. Take the tram to Výstavište, among the trees of the former game park, before crossing the Vltava to the Troja Château. From there, you’re within easy walking distance of Prague Zoo. Take bus 112 back to the metro at Nádraží Holešovice.

The Best of the Rest

1. Lapidárium

prac_info Výstaviště 422, Holešovice • Open May–Nov: 10am–4pm Wed, noon–6pm Thu–Sun • Adm • www.nm.cz

Several statues including the Marian column from Old Town Square and sculptures from Charles Bridge are on display here.

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Late 19th-century Lapidárium

2. National Museum of Agriculture

prac_info Kostelní 44, Holešovice • Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.nzm.cz

A visit to this museum is an excursion through Czech agricultural history.

3. The City of Prague Museum

prac_info Na Poříčí 52 • Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm • en.muzeumprahy.cz

Visitors can explore the history of Prague at this museum (see The City of Prague Museum).

4. Břevnov Monastery

prac_info Markétská 28, Břevnov • Check online for tour times • Adm • www.brevnov.cz

St Adalbert founded this Benedictine monastery in 993. You can see the remains of a Romanesque and an 18th-century church.

5. Bílek Villa

prac_info Mickiewiczova 1, Hradčany • 233 323631 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.ghmp.cz

The exhibition of art at this villa captures the essence and style of František Bílek's work and techniques.

6. Olšany Cemetery

prac_info Vinohradská 153 • Open Mar, Apr, Oct: 8am–6pm daily (May–Sep: to 7pm; Nov–Feb: to 5pm)

Many notable Czech personalities, such as Jan Palach (see p36) are buried in this vast cemetery. Visitors can get a free map at the entrance.

7. Kafka’s Grave

prac_info Izraelská 1 • Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Sun–Thu (to 2pm Fri); Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm Sun–Thu (to 2pm Fri)

Kafka’s sombre gravemarker lies close to the entrance along Row 21 at the New Jewish Cemetery.

8. Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord

prac_info Nám. Jiřího z Poděbrad, Vinohrady

Designed by Slovenian architect Josip Plečnik, this modern building was inspired by old Christian architecture.

9. Villa Müller

prac_info Nad Hradním vodojemem 14 • Adm • www.muzeumprahy.cz/mullerova-vila

An avant-garde masterpiece, this villa by Adolf Loos is a fusion of Functionalism and old English-style design. Reservations needed.

10. DOX Centre for Contemporary Art

prac_info Poupětova 1, Holešovice • Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon • Adm • www.dox.cz

Set in a former factory, this space (see DOX Centre for Contemporary Art) presents contemporary international art, architecture and design.

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DOX Centre for Contemporary Art

Vyšehrad Sights

1. Sts Peter and Paul Cathedral

prac_info Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm) • Adm

Although the first church to stand on this site was founded by Vratislav II in the 11th century, the Neo-Gothic structure seen today dates back to 1903. The very valuable Gothic altar with a panel depicting Our Lady of the Rains is on the right-hand side of the chapel.

2. Slavín Monument

prac_info Open Nov–Feb: 8am–5pm daily (Mar, Apr & Oct: to 6pm; May–Sep: to 7pm)

This is the burial place (see p123) of a number of notable Czech cultural figures. Students laid flowers in remembrance here on 17 November 1989, before marching into town for the Velvet Revolution.

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Slavín Monument

3. Devil’s Pillar

prac_info K Rotundě

The story goes that the devil bet a local priest that he could carry this pillar from the Church of St Mary in Prague to the boundries of Rome before the clergyman could finish his sermon. Being a sore loser, Satan threw the column he was carrying to the ground here.

4. Tábor Gate (Špička)

prac_info V Pevnosti

Charles IV restored Vyšehrad’s fortifications in the 14th century. Catholic crusaders rode through this gate on their way to crush the Táborites in 1434.

5. Congress Centre

This ex-Communist palace of culture (see Congress Centre) now hosts numerous international conferences as well as pop concerts, thanks to its excellent acoustics.

6. Nusle Bridge

This simple, utilitarian viaduct spans the Nusle Valley, connecting New Town to the Pankrác banking and commercial district.

7. Cubist Houses

Czech architect Josef Chochol (1880–1956) built these angular masterpieces to the north of Vyšehrad in 1913.

8. Smetana’s Grave

At the start of each year’s Prague Spring International Music Festival, musicians attend a ceremony at composer Bedřich Smetana’s grave.

9. Casemates

prac_info Open 9:30am–5pm daily • Adm

In the 18th century, occupying French troops drilled niches in Vyšehrad rock and built vaults inside to store arms and ammunition. This now houses six original statues from Charles Bridge.

10. Rotunda of St Martin

prac_info K Rotundě

This 11th-century chapel is the oldest in Prague and most likely to be the oldest Christian house of worship in the country. It was reconstructed in 1878.

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The simple Rotunda of St Martin

Cafés and Pubs

1. Kavárna Pražírna

prac_info Lublaňská 676/50, Vinohrady • 720 385622 • www.kavarnaprazirna.cz

Enjoy the flavour and aroma of freshly roasted Arabica coffees at this brick-lined café. Also try the homemade desserts and pickled cheese.

2. U Vystřelenýho Oka

prac_info U Božích bojovníků 3, Žižkov • 222 540465 • Closed Sun

The name “At the Shot-Out Eye” is a tribute to the half-blind Hussite general Jan Žižka from whom Žižkov takes its name and whose enormous statue (see p125) looms overhead.

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U Vystřelenýho Oka sign

3. U Holanů

prac_info Londýnská 10, Vinohrady

Tuck into a plate of pickled sausages or herring at Vinohrady’s favourite no-nonsense pub. Simple but clean, with perfunctory service; they don’t make them like this anymore.

4. U Houdků

prac_info Bořivojova 110, Žižkov • 222 711239

This hidden little gem in Žižkov serves Czech meals that are great value for money. In summer you can sit outside.

5. Palác Akropolis

prac_info Kubelíkova 27, Žižkov • www.palacakropolis.com

One of the most active independent cultural centres in Prague, Akropolis annually hosts nearly a 1,000 cultural events. Both local as well as top international artists perform here.

6. Mecca

prac_info U Průhonu 3, Holešovice • www.mecca.cz

With emphasis on good service, Mecca has become a synonym for dance music from around the world and is known for its international acts. It boasts five super-fast bars and two music stages.

7. SaSaZu

prac_info Bubenské nábřeží 306 • www.sasazu.com

Located in the city centre, SaSazu offers a good gastronomic experience. The restaurant has a sharing style concept.

8. Hlučná samota

prac_info Zahřebská 14, Vinohrady

This refined pub takes its name from Bohumil Hrabal’s 1976 short novel Too Loud a Solitude (see p51). Neither loud nor solitary, this pub offers its guests excellent food and beer, for which they loyally return every time.

9. Můj šálek kávy

prac_info Křižíkova 105, Karlín • 725 556944 • www.mujsalekkavy.cz

Sip away at speciality coffee and savour homemade cakes and cookies at the flagship café of Czech double-shot coffee roasters. The interesting decor includes bare walls, books and artwork.

10. Pastička

prac_info Blanická 25, Vinohrady

The Mousetrap is a perfect blend of old-fashioned beer hall and modish gastropub. Visit it for a choice of light and semi-dark Bernard beer, good, filling food and eclectic Irish decor.

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Modern decor at Pastička gastropub

Restaurants

1. Aromi

prac_info Náměstí Míru 6, Prague 2 • 222 713222 • TT

This excellent Italian restaurant serves up a fantastic menu of authentic food accompanied by an extensive range of wines from all around the world.

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The dining room at Aromi

2. Olympos

prac_info Kubelíkova 9, Žižkov • 222 722239 • TT

Prague’s best Greek food is on offer here. The large garden, complete with a children’s playground, is ideal for summer dining. The mixed salad platter is the best value around.

3. Mailsi

prac_info Lipanská 1, Žižkov • 774 972010 • TT

This little Pakistani eatery offers better value than the Indian restaurants in the centre. Located close to the No. 9 tram stop, it’s not as remote as it appears.

4. Rana

prac_info Na Dědince 12, Palmovka • 721 809084 • No credit cards • TT

When Mehfooz Ahmed sold Mailsi to his brother, his fans followed him here, where he serves up the best curries in town. The vindaloo is for true spice devotees.

5. Na Kopci

prac_info K Závěrce 20, Praha 5 • 251 553102 • TT

Featured in the Michelin guide as a “Bib Gourmand” restaurant, Na Kopci offers an excellent four-course degustation menu of French and Czech delicacies created with seasonal and local ingredients.

6. Salabka

prac_info K Bohnicím 2, Praha 7 • 778 019002 • Closed Sun & Mon • TT

Surrounded by vast vineyards, this restaurant located near the district of Troja, is renowned for its award-winning wines. The menu here follows the latest trends with wild game and offers local freshwater fish dishes.

7. Chorvatský Mlýn

prac_info Horoměřická 3a, Praha 6, Dejvice • 220 610760 • TT

Standing on the site of the original 17th-century mill, “Croatian Mill” is located in the centre of the Divoká Šárka Nature Reserve. It serves sumptuous Mediterranean cuisine.

8. U Cedru

prac_info Národní Obrany 27, Dejvice • 233 342974 • TT

For an authentic Lebanese dining experience, order pitta with hummus, tabbouleh and other appetizers.

9. LA VIE Mánesova

prac_info Mánesova 13, Vinohrady • 728 274260 • TT

This restaurant, with a beautiful decor, serves steaks, stuffed beef and soups prepared with fresh ingredients.

10. U Marčanů

prac_info Veleslavínská 14, Prague 6 • 235 360623 • TT

Folk music and dancing make this a fun lunch spot. Large portions of Czech food are served at communal tables. Book ahead and take a taxi.

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