Portugal for
Captivating Cities
Urban Portugal is a tale of two cities. The traditional saying “Porto works, while Lisbon plays” no longer holds true, with both cities having much to offer.
t Electronic band performing at festival Rock in Rio Lisboa
Rhythm of the Night
Both cities boast a lively nightlife, with traditional bars sitting side by side with trendy clubs. But, with its myriad drinking holes spilling out into narrow cobbled streets, Lisbon’s Bairro Alto is an unbeatable party destination. For a change of pace, no trip to the capital would be complete without a visit to an atmospheric fado bar.
Espresso Yourself
Lisbon’s Art Deco A Brasileira café has been serving the city’s literary greats for more than 100 years. Over in Porto, high society and bohemian intellectuals have been flocking to the far more ornate Majestic Café, with its decorative stone cherubs, since it opened in 1921 (www.cafemajestic.com).
Retail Therapy
There are plenty of places to shop in Lisbon and Porto, and they both have some standout spots. Lisbon’s Time Out Market is the place for foodies. Alongside traditional produce stalls, kiosks serve a variety of gourmet treats from some of Portugal’s top chefs. Porto’s must-visit shop is the fabulous Art Deco Livraria Lello.
Staple Dishes
Pastéis de nata – the deliciously flaky custard tarts – are ubiquitous in Lisbon. Head to Antiga Confeitaria de Belém to sample them. Porto’s culinary staple, the francesinha or “little Frenchie”, requires a bigger appetite. The retro Café Santiago is regularly victorious in competitions to find the best doorstop-sized sandwich (www.caferestaurantesantiago.com.pt).
Charming Streets
Tumbling down steep hillsides, Lisbon’s Alfama and Porto’s Ribeira districts have much in common. Both are working-class areas that have been gentrified in recent years and their narrow streets remain atmospheric places to get lost in. While Alfama is full of red-tiled roofs and always decked in colourful garlands, Ribeira has higgledy-piggledy houses, tiled in different colours. Wander through each area listening out for the sounds of local life through the open windows strung with washing.
FADO
Like blues music, fado is an expression of longing and sorrow. Literally meaning “fate”, the music owes much to the concept known as saudade, meaning a longing both for what has been lost, and for what has never been attained. The people of Lisbon have nurtured this poignant music in backstreet cafés and restaurants for over 150 years, and it has altered little in that time. Fado is sung as often by women as men and is always accompanied by a guitarra (a Portuguese guitar) and a viola (an acoustic Spanish guitar). Alfama is the best place to hear it; we love A Baiuca.