The Italian Riviera
From the palm-shaded Belle Époque villas and gardens of the bustling riviera towns to the ancient history and wild beauty of the hinterland valleys, the Imperia region in western Liguria is a land of incredible contrasts. Protected from climatic rigours by the Alpi Ligure, Val Nervia’s villages are so sun-soaked that olive crops flourish even at altitude – Dolceacqua, Perinaldo and Apricale form the Strada dell’Olio (Olive Oil Route). These medieval clusters of castle ruins and stone houses along the River Nervia are packed with narrow shady lanes, small piazzas, and Baroque churches full of valuable artworks and frescoes. Along the coast, produce from the fishing villages of the Riviera dei Fiori is vital in the flavoursome, fragrant and colourful Ligurian cuisine.
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ACTIVITIES
Buy olive oil direct from the source along the Val Nervia’s Strada dell’Olio
Taste the local brews – Rossese di Dolceacqua red wine or Apricale’s beer
Shop for pottery crafts in Dolceacqua and Apricale
in Apricale
Mountain bike or hike on Monte Ceppo in the Val Nervia
Take a ramble along the banks of the River Nervia
between Sanremo and Bussana Vecchia
Go whale watching from Imperia (www.whalewatch.it)
A walking trail near Dolceacqua, along Rio Peitavino.
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Dolceacqua to Cervo.
Number of days: 2–3 days allowing at least half a day in Sanremo, a day in the Val Nervia and a day between Imperia’s beaches and fishing villages.
Distance: Approx. 97 km (60 miles).
Road conditions: Excellent, barring the odd winding road in the Val Nervia (notably Pigna to Perinaldo). The coast road (SP1) can be a slowly moving traffic jam in Jul–Aug and at rush hour.
For fewer crowds, but loads of sunshine, flowers and flavours, opt for May–Jun and Sep–Oct. The Riviera dei Fiori makes a great destination in winter, when oranges and lemons are in season.
Shops tend to open Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 4–7pm or 8pm (city supermarkets often stay open for the siesta). Churches and museums vary enormously but usually open 8 or 9am–noon and 4–7 or 8pm. Many museums are closed on Mondays.
Main market days: Dolceacqua: Thu am; Perinaldo: Wed am; Sanremo: Tue and Sat am; Cervo: Thu am; Oneglia: Wed & Sat; Porto Maurizio: Thu.
Major festivals: Riviera dei Fiori: Festa di Primavera (spring festival), Jan–May; Fiori & Giardini di Riviera, end Jan; Sanremo: Festival della Canzone Italiana (Italian song festival), Feb/Mar; Piazza Nota 1: Concertino del Venerdì (classical music), Mar–Dec, Fri; Corso Garibaldi: Festival della Scienza, Oct–Nov; Festival dei Sapori (flavours), late Nov–early Dec; Imperia Region: Un Mare da Scoprire, mid-Mar; Vele d’Epoca (historic yachts), Sep; OliOliva, late Nov; Cervo: Basil festival, early May; Festival Internazionale di Musica da Camera, Jul–Aug.
Colourful façade of the Chiesa di Sant’ Antonio Abate in Dolceacqua.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Explore the Val Nervia for for non-swimmers. For full details, see Day trip options.
The beautiful village of Apricale, basking in the sun.