Sardinia: Capital to Coast
From Sardinia’s capital of Cagliari through the interior of the island and the Nuraghic settlement, this route heads into the Gennargentu Mountains. This is the land of shepherds, pastoral farming, dramatic scenery and ancient traditions, where the sound of tinkling sheep and goat bells is never far away. The tour finally emerges at the Golfo di Orosei – the Mediterranean’s longest undeveloped coastline where forests stretch down to white beaches. Lovers of the grape will find the fruity red Cannonau wines in abundance around Nuoro and Dorgali. The interior of the island is also the home of traditional Sardinian cuisine – where home-reared meat reigns supreme – while the coast favours the fresh produce of the sea.
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ACTIVITIES
Enjoy swimming and lazing on Cagliari’s Poetto Beach before setting off for the interior
Hike in the Gennargentu Mountains or stroll around Fonni, Sardinia’s highest village
Drink in the fabulous views from the statue Il Redentore, perched atop Monte Ortobene
Sample the excellent local wine in Dorgali
Take a boat trip to idyllic Cala Luna (Moon Cove) and visit the mesmerizing Grotta del Bue Marino
Grotta del Bue Marino (Cave of the Sea Cow), near Cala Gonone, named after its most famous inhabitant, the monk seal
The Bastione San Remy, Cagliari – with fantastic views over the city and bay
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Cagliari to Cala Gonone.
Number of days: 4, allowing half a day to explore Cagliari and a day at Cala Gonone.
Distance: 219 km (136 miles).
Road conditions: Villages are well signposted but road numbers are not always indicated. Steep terrain from before Fonni to Cala Gonone and hairpin bends. Snow in winter on the mountain villages.
When to go: May, June and September are ideal months. July and August are busy and best avoided.
Opening times: Shops tend to open Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 4–7pm or 8pm. Churches usually open 8am–noon and 4–7pm. Museum opening times vary enormously, but usual hours are 9am–1pm and 4–7pm or 8pm. Many museums are closed on Mondays. Archaeological sites are generally open from 9am to one hour before sunset.
Main market days: Cagliari: Mon–Fri am and all day Sat. Nuoro: Fri am.
Shopping: There is Italian designer couture in Cagliari’s shops on Via Roma, or ceramics and filigree gold jewellery in nearby boutiques. Also, look out for mountain honey, almond biscuits and good Sardinian wines.
Major festivals: Cagliari: Sant’Efisio in honour of the patron saint, May. Mamoiada: Festa di Sant’Antonio, 17 Jan; Orgòsolo: Festa dell’Assunta, 15 Aug; Near Nuoro: S’Ardia: spectacular wild horse race through the streets, Jul. Monte Ortobene: Sagra del Redentore, pageant and torchlit procession up the mountain, Aug.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
In Cagliari try an appealing combination of history and beaches. Visit the village of Nuoro for traditional costumes, masks and murals as well as some great mountain scenery. From Dorgali, head into the countryside with a trip to the hidden ancient Nuraghic village of Tiscali or the stunning gorge, Gola Su Gorroppu.