Driving in Italy

Driving is one of the best ways of exploring the country, particularly for getting away from the crowds and reaching the more remote areas and sights. For long distances, Italy has a comprehensive motorway system, easily accessed from the rest of Europe. The condition of minor roads may vary in quality, but most are passable with care. Mountainous terrain can make for an exhilarating drive along twisty hairpin roads, but be sure to take them at a relaxed pace.

Insurance and Breakdown Cover

In Italy it is compulsory to have third-party insurance. Check with your insurance provider that you are fully covered to drive abroad: in some cases drivers will only be covered for basic Road Traffic Accident insurance, not for theft or becoming embroiled in legal matters in the event of an accident. UK drivers can arrange full breakdown cover while abroad: some companies have a package that includes a 24-hour English-language helpline.

What to Take

If you are driving your own foreign-registered car you should carry your vehicle insurance policy, ideally with a statement of cover in Italian (usually provided by your insurer). You will also need the vehicle registration document, a Green Card, V5C registration certificate and a valid driving licence. All non-EU registered vehicles need to display a country sticker on their car. Also, carry spare bulbs, a warning triangle, and a high-visibility jacket (to be worn if your car breaks down on a motorway and you have to leave the vehicle). The headlights of right-hand drive cars will need to be adjusted for left-hand driving, so that the hot-spot of the beam lights up the edge of the road and does not dazzle oncoming drivers. You should also have a European Accident Statement form – you can download one from www.cartraveldocs.com/european-accident-statement/.

Road Systems

Italy was the first country in the world to build a motorway: the Autostrada dei Laghi, between Milan and Varese, was opened in 1924. It now has over 6,750 km (4,200 miles) of motorway (autostrada) built by both state and private companies, with several more under construction. The privately built motorways are toll roads; non-toll roads are managed by ANAS. On a toll road you pick up a ticket when you enter the motorway, and pay as you exit. Tolls can be paid with cash, credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, American Express or Diners Club), or by a prepaid card called a ViaCard, available from motorway service stations and toll booth operators – worth it if you are driving in the country extensively. Validate the ViaCard at the tolls you pass so that it records your route, and pay as you exit. When you arrive at a toll station get into the correct lane, and join the queue: for cash follow the white signs; for credit card and ViaCard look for the blue signs. A white sign displaying a couple of bank notes and coins only, is self-service; a white sign with a hand holding the bank notes means there will be an operator. Avoid the yellow telepass lanes: these are for drivers with a device in their car that registers tolls and deducts them from their bank account.

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Automatic lanes at a toll station on motorway

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A truck negotiates the small lanes of Montisi

Motorway signs are green and are indicated by the letter “A” followed by a number written in white on a green background. A road prefixed with an “E” is a motorway that forms part of the pan-European system. Therefore an Italian motorway can have two numbers: say A11 and E45.

Secondary roads are known as strada statale (SS), strada provinciale (SP) or strada comunale (SC), which is usually very small, and maintained by the local town council. SR (rare) signifies a strada regionale.

There is no consistent system for the colours of roads used by different mapping companies: TCI (Touring Club Italiano, the equivalent of the AA) uses black for an autostrada, red for a “primary route”, and yellow for everything else except the most minor roads, which are not coloured at all. The TCI also has three levels of non-asphalted roads. The AA uses red for an autostrada, orange for a primary route, yellow for a secondary road, and no colour for minor roads.

The privately run motorways have a website www.autostrade.it – get live traffic reports by clicking on a map. Note that some roads may only be named and not have a number.

Speed Limits and Fines

The speed limit for motorcycles and cars over 150cc in built-up areas is 50 km/h (30 mph). On secondary roads the limit is 90 km/h (55 mph), on main roads it is 110 km/h (70 mph) and on motorways it is 130 km/h (80 mph). Speed limits are lower if you are towing, or if you have held a licence for less than two years. Limits are also lower if there is fog or heavy rain.

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Sign showing the Italian speed limits for main and secondary roads

The motorway speed limit is sometimes disregarded but speed cameras are on the increase. If you incur a fine, and are driving a rental car, the fine will go to the rental company, who will deduct the money from your credit card: speed fines can range from around €150 to over €300. Main towns and cities often enforce a Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL). To avoid fines, consult the Urban Access Regulations in Europe website (www.urbanaccessregulations.eu). The use of mobile phones in cars (except hands-free) is prohibited. Seat belts are compulsory for both front- and rear-seat passengers if fitted. Never drink and drive – the alcohol limit is 0.05 per cent.

Driving with Children

It is illegal for children to ride in a car without their seat belts on and small children must sit in car seats. Infant and child seats and booster seats can all be hired when you book your rental car. Remember to check that there is no airbag fitted if you intend to put one of your children on the passenger seat. Some companies also have portable DVD players for rent, which might make life less stressful on long journeys. Baby-changing facilities are virtually non-existent in service stations, though toys and sweets are inevitably prominently displayed in service station bars. There is unlikely to be anywhere for kids to let off steam safely at a motorway service station.

Driving in Italy | CONTENTS

common road signs

Rallentare

Slow down

Senso unico

One way

Strada a doppie corsie

Dual carriageway

Strada panoramica

Scenic route

Centro

Town or city centre

Incrocio

Crossroads

Lavori in corso

Roadworks ahead

Parcheggio

Car park

Senso vietato

No entry

Sosta vietata

No parking

Tutte le direzione

All directions

Uscita

Exit

Rules of the Road

Take care to always drive on the right. Most visitors who come from a country where they drive on the left get used to it pretty quickly, but roundabouts and crossroadscan be disorientating at first, as can turning from a one-way street onto a road with two-way traffic, especially if it is empty.

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One-way, no parking and tow-away signs

Italians rarely use the rear-view mirror: they concentrate on the cars in front of them and those to the side, and if there is a space in front of them, they fill it. The common wisdom that you should allow one car’s length distance between vehicles for every 16 km (10 miles) per hour is never followed. Quick wits and swift reactions are a must.

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Corner roadside mirror near Radda in Chianti

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Street mirror for a narrow road in Petroio, Siena

Unless road signs indicate otherwise, you should give way to any vehicle joining your road from the right. On motorways and dual carriageways use dipped headlights at all times. Failing to do so can attract a hefty fine. Do not use the horn except in emergencies. This may come as a surprise in a country where weddings and football victories are celebrated by a convoy of cars sounding their klaxons. The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office offers advice on driving abroad on the “Know Before You Go” section of its website.

Buying Petrol

Petrol (benzina) stations are frequent, and most are open from early morning until lunchtime and from 3pm till around 7pm. Outside those hours you will usually find an automatic pump that functions by either credit/debit card or bank notes. Petrol stations on motorways tend to be open 24-hours a day. Unleaded petrol (senza piombo) is universally available, as are diesel (gasolio) and LPG (PLG).

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Filling up at a petrol station

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Symbol of a major petrol company, Agip

Road Conditions

Italy’s motorways often flow freely, although rush hours and summer holidays can see the kind of long tailbacks common to most of Europe. The busiest times are at weekends in July, and at the beginning and end of August. Roads are particularly busy either side of the national summer holiday, Ferragosto (15 August). Sunday is usually a good day to travel if you have a long distance to cover, as most lorries and trucks are banned from travelling on weekends. Road maintenance is a major issue. Italian roads have a lot to contend with, from freezing winters in the mountains, landslide-inducing rainstorms and baking hot, tarmac-melting summers in the south, to say nothing of the roads skirting the active volcanoes of Vesuvius and Etna. “White roads”, known as strade sterrate have only a gravel surface, though these are still marked on road maps.

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Signage in Petroio, Siena

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Road signage for Citerna

Mountain Roads

Reaching some of Italy’s most spectacular viewpoints and mountain passes will inevitably involve tackling some steep narrow roads, hairpin bends and sheer drops, such as those on the route through the valleys of the Ortles mountain range. In spring, road surfaces may have been eroded by heavy winter snow, snow-melt and frost, and it can take some time for repairs to be undertaken, especially off the beaten track.

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Winding mountain road between La Thuile and Col du Mont Cenis

Generally, unless you are accustomed to driving in snow and ice, it is better to avoid mountain areas in the snow, especially on unfamiliar roads. In certain areas, snow chains are mandatory in mid-winter, and you will get fined if you don’t have them fitted to your wheels. For advance weather warnings that might affect your journey, always check one of the Italian weather websites such as www.meteo.it or www.ilmeteo.it.

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Mountain peak in France, over the border from La Thuile

Taking a Break

Service stations on motorways are less frequent than in the UK and other parts of Europe, so if you are getting tired, it may be worth leaving the motorway and taking a break in the nearest town or village. Italian service stations were once judged by the AA to be the worst in Europe. While service stations on toll roads offer a wide variety of fresh food and often have really good restaurants, stations on smaller roads usually offer little more than a toilet.

Driving along the back roads, you are more likely to find a pretty village with a bar where you can have a good coffee or snack at a fair price. These bars should always have an on-site toilet.

Breakdown and Accidents

In the event of a breakdown or accident, switch on your hazard warning lights, put on a high-visibility jacket and place a warning triangle 50 m (160 ft) behind your car. If you have pan-European break down cover you will need to call the ACI, the Italian Automobile Club (803 116 from an Italian phone or 800 116 800 from a foreign mobile), or the emergency services (112 or 113). The ACI will tow any foreign-registered vehicle to the nearest ACI-affiliated garage free of charge.

If you are in a hire car, call the rental company and follow their advice. The ACI should offer a free tow, providing you can produce your rental contract and flight tickets. If you have pan-European cover, your provider will contact the nearest garage and make arrangements for you.

If you are involved in an accident, depending on its severity, call one of the emergency services listed in the Directory. If there is any damage to a vehicle, or passengers, calling the police is obligatory. You will need to fill out a European Accident Statement (http://european-accident-statement.accidentsketch.com) and take the contact details and vehicle registration number of any other cars involved. If you have a camera it is a good idea to take photos of the accident from all angles before any vehicles are moved.

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The spa town of Pré-Saint-Didier in the Valle d’Aosta

Driving in Italy | CONTENTS

DIRECTORY

GENERAL DRIVING INFOrmation

The AA

www.theaa.com

ACI (Italian Automobile Club)

www.aci.it

Autostrade per l’Italia

www.autostrade.it

British Foreign and Commonwealth Office

www.gov.uk/driving-abroad

RAC

www.rac.co.uk

Touring Club Italiano

www.touringclub.it

Emergencies

Police (Carabinieri)

112

Polizia Statale

113

Fire Brigade (Pompieri)

115

Roadside Assistance

116

Medical Emergency, Ambulance

118

Parking

Parking in an Italian town or city can demand a great deal of time and patience. When kerb space is limited, drivers tend to park everywhere and anywhere – on pavements, at bus stops or blocking private entrances. The anarchy of Italian parking notwithstanding, it is unwise to follow suit: parking attendants are on the increase, as are zone di rimozione (tow-away zones).

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Camper van parked at the Rifugio Citelli in view of the summit of Etna Nord

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Bicycles and signs in Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, Cogne

In cities double parking is common, triple parking becoming more so, and in an attempt to reduce traffic volume several cities have introduced schemes whereby cars with even-numbered plates are allowed to drive in the city one day, those with odd-numbered plates the next. This being the case, and there being more odd-numbered days in the year than even, odd-numbered registrations are more popular. And naturally, if a family has two cars, they will ensure that one has an odd, and the other an even-numbered plate. Rental cars are currently exempt.

Towns and villages popular with tourists often have a paying car park just outside the centre, and many towns now operate a colour-coded zoned parking scheme, with the type of zone indicated by the colour of the lines on the side of the road. Some blue-zone parking spaces have a maximum stay of between one or two hours, and cost around €1.50 an hour, though they will sometimes be free after 8pm and on Sundays. There will occasionally be a meter or an attendant; at other times you need to buy a scratch card from a tobacconist. White zone areas are free, and yellow zone areas are for residents only. If there is a time limit, but no parking fee, Italian cars (including rental cars) come equipped with a mini clock dial that you set with your time of arrival and display in the window. If you do not have one, you may be able to get one from the local tourist office.

When parking, do not leave any valuables in your car and it is wise not to leave your luggage visible. Secure, indoor car parks in cities are usually very expensive, but some of the larger hotels may have their own parking facilities or have special deals with nearby parking areas.

Drivers with specific requirements displaying a blue badge can park in designated disabled spaces.

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Parking signs in Panzano, Chianti

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Tourist information sign in Randazzo

Car Hire

All the major international car rental companies operate in Italy – such as Avis, Maggiore, Hertz and Europcar. It is worth doing an internet search before you decide who to use, as well as investigating any deals offered by your airline. Low-cost airlines have some particularly good deals. You could compare the deals you have found yourself with those of a reliable car rental broker such as Holiday Autos or AutoEurope.

To rent a car in Italy you generally need to be over 23 and to have held a full licence for one year. Be sure that your policy includes CDW, collision-damage waiver, and Theft Protection, as well as unlimited mileage. Child seats need to be booked in advance. Automatic cars are becoming more widely available with the increase of congested city centres.

You will need to produce your passport, driving licence and a credit card (from which an impression will be taken as a security deposit) when you collect the vehicle. Cars are usually supplied with a full tank of petrol, and it is wise to return it refilled, as if not, you will be charged at an inflated rate for filling the tank.

Motorbikes and Scooters

Italy is the land of the Vespa, and 10 per cent of the population have a motorbike or scooter. Two-wheel transport makes sense for navigating the labyrinth of streets that form many city centres – not designed for modern traffic. It is much easier to negotiate on two wheels than four – and you will usually find somewhere (free) to park a bike, even in the busiest city.

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The fertile Val d’Orcia, Tuscany

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Colourful street in Oneglia

For keen and experienced bikers, Italy is an exhilarating country to explore by bike, with plenty of roads twisting up and down mountains and along dramatic coastlines, unmade “white” roads to explore, and a landscape that changes constantly.

If you are on a motorbike or scooter, a helmet is compulsory for both driver and pillion, a rule enforced with increasing frequency. A driving licence or motorbike driving licence is required for all vehicles over 49cc. Motorcycles must use dipped headlights during the day at all times.

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Iconic Italian scooter

Caravans, Motorhomes and RVs

Caravans and motorhomes are becoming increasingly popular in Italy. There is usually designated space in larger campsites for caravans and facilities are generally good. In peak season book in advance.

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Reception at a campsite in Milazzo, Sicily

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Campsite in summer

In quieter areas free camping is on the increase, but overnighting wherever you feel like it is more likely to incur local hostility. To avoid offending local sensibilities (or ruining other peoples’ views) ask advice from the local traffic police (vigili) before parking up for the night.

The speed limit for driving with a caravan or trailer in built-up areas is 50 km/h (30 mph), on secondary and main roads it is 70 km/h (45 mph), and on motorways it is 80 km/h (50 mph).

Camper van or mobile home holidays are slowly becoming popular in Italy. Prices are usually around €1,000 for a four-berth vehicle for a week in mid-season, with unlimited mileage – companies to try include Camper 2 Go or Blurent.

Maps and Satellite Navigation Devices

The best maps for long journeys and overall planning are the AA Road Atlas Italy (1:250,000) or the Touring Club Italiano Atlante Stradale d’Italia (also 1:250,000). Regional maps by Touring Club Italiano (1:200,000) are invaluable for local exploring, but even they will not have every country lane and unsurfaced track marked. Touring Club does, however, occasionally produce 1:50,000 maps of certain small areas of particular interest, such as national parks. These are rarely sold in shops, but available at park offices.

Satellite Navigation devices – such as TomTom or Garmin – now come with good maps that cover Europe too. Some car rental firms often offer these devices as an extra.

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Map of cross-country ski area, Valbruna, and signs for walking trails and historic sights

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Signs for a church and palace, Malborghetto

Driving in Italy | CONTENTS

DIRECTORY

Car hire

AutoEurope

www.autoeurope.com

Avis

www.avis.com

Europcar

www.europcar.com

Hertz

www.hertz.com

Holiday Autos

www.holidayautos.co.uk

Maggiore

www.maggiore.it

CAMPER VAN hire

Blurent

www.blurent.com

Camper 2 Go

www.camper2go.com

Satellite navigation devices

Garmin

www.garmin.com

TomTom

www.tomtom.com

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