Eixample
If the Old Town is the heart of Barcelona and the green mountains of Tibidabo and Montjuïc the lungs, the Eixample is the city’s nervous system – its economic and commercial core. The area began to take shape in 1860 when the city was permitted to expand beyond the medieval walls (see 19th Century: Industry & Prosperity). Its design, based on plans by Catalan engineer Ildefons Cerdà, comprises hundreds of symmetrical grid-like squares. Construction continued into the 20th century at a time when Barcelona’s elite was patronizing the city’s most daring architects. Modernisme was flourishing and the area became home to the cream of Barcelona’s Modernista architecture, with myriad elegant façades and balconies. Today, a wealth of enchanting cafés, funky design shops, gourmet restaurants and hip bars and clubs draws the professional crowd, which has adopted the neighbourhood as its own.
Ildefons CerdàIldefons Cerdà’s design for the new city, comprising a uniform grid of square blocks, received backing in 1859. Reflecting Cerdà’s utopian socialist ideals, each block was to have a garden-like courtyard, surrounded by uniform flats. Real estate vultures soon intervened and the courtyards were converted into warehouses and factories. Today these green spaces are gradually being reinstated. |
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Sights
Sagrada Família
Gaudí’s wizardry culminated in this enchanting, wild, unconventional temple, which dominates the city skyline (see Sagrada Família).
Spires, Sagrada Família
Mansana de la Discòrdia
At the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or (Golden Square) lies this stunning block of houses. Literally “the block of discord”, the Mansana de la Discòrdia is so-called because of the dramatic contrast of its three flagship buildings. Built between 1900 and 1907 by the three Modernista greats, rival architects Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch, the buildings were commissioned by competing bourgeois families. Domènech is represented by the ornate Casa Lleó Morera; Puig makes his mark with the Gothic-inspired Casa Amatller; and Gaudí flaunts his architectural prowess with Casa Batlló. All boast superb interiors: Casa Amatller runs tours of the vestibule but Casa Lleó Morera is sadly closed to the public. The lesser-known houses at Nos. 37 and 39 add to the overall splendour of the block. The Perfume Museum at No. 39 is heaven for scent-lovers.
Pg de Gràcia 35–45
Windows, Casa Battló, Mansana de la Discòrdia
Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
Still a fully functioning hospital, it was built in two stages from 1905 by Domènech i Montaner and his son. A tribute to Modernisme – and Domènech’s answer to Gaudí’s Sagrada Família – the sumptuous design comprises eight pavilions and various other buildings linked by underground tunnels. The pavilions, each different, recall the history of Catalonia with murals, mosaics and sculptures. Interlacing the buildings are gardens creating beautiful outdoor oases. The courtyards and gardens are open to visitors. Part of the Ruta del Modernisme (see La Ruta Modernista).
C/Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167
Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
Fundació Tàpies
Paintings and sculptures by Antoni Tàpies (b. 1923), Catalonia’s foremost living artist, are housed in this early Modernista building (see Fundació Tàpies). For a glimpse of what awaits inside, look up: crowning the museum is the artist’s eye-catching wire sculpture Cloud & Chair (1990). The collection of over 300 pieces covers Tàpies’ whole range of work, including impressive abstract pieces such as Grey Ochre on Brown (1962). Temporary exhibitions are also held here, with past shows by Mario Herz, Hans Hacke and Craigie Horsfield.
C/Aragó 255
93 487 03 15
Closed for restoration; phone for details
Adm
DA
Free under 16
Cloud & Chair sculpture, Fundació Tàpies
Modernista hotel entrance
Palau Macaya
Designed by Puig i Cadafalch (1901), this palace is a fine example of the Neo-Gothic style in Modernista architecture. A magical, white façade is broken up by engravings and two towers. Of note are the decorative sculptures by Modernista sculptor Eusebi Arnau. The palace belongs to the Centre Cultural de la Caixa is closed at the moment; it is worth a visit to see the outside alone.
Pg Sant Joan
Courtyard, Palau Macaya
Fundació Francisco Godia
Although Francisco Godia (1921–90) was best known for his prowess behind the wheel – notably as an F1 racing driver – his passions extended to the art world. His once private collection now forms this museum and encompasses a range of art from medieval times to the 20th-century: from Jaume Huguet’s altarpiece St Mary Magdalene (c. 1445) to a range of Spanish ceramics and works by 17th-century fresco-painter Luca Giardano.
C/Disputacio 250
93 272 31 00
Open 10am–8pm daily
Adm
Rambla de Catalunya
This elegant extension of the better-known Rambla is a more up-market version. Lined with trees that form a leafy green tunnel in summer, it boasts scores of pretty façades and shops, including the Modernista Farmàcia Bolos (No. 77). The avenue teems with terrace bars and cafés, which are ideal for people-watching. See also Rambla de Catalunya.
Fountain, Rambla de Catalunya
Universitat de Barcelona
Until 1958, this was the only university in Barcelona – today it is one of six. The graceful building (1861–1889) occupies two blocks of the Eixample and has a distinct air of academia. The interior gardens with their fountains and patios make for a cool, shady hideaway on hot afternoons.
Pl de la Universitat
Interior courtyard, Universitat de Barcelona
Museu Egipci
Spain’s most important Egyptology museum houses more than 350 exhibits from over 3,000 years of Ancient Egypt. Exhibits include terracotta figures, human and animal mummies, and a bust of the lion goddess Sekhmet (700–300 BC).
C/València 284
Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun
Adm
The Modernista Route
Morning
Pop into the decrepit chess bar El Pato Loco (cnr Diputació & Aribau) to get a sepia picture of Barcelona that hasn’t changed for a century. Wake up with a cafè solo and watch the old men playing speed-chess, then stroll around the gardens of the Universitat Head east along Gran Via past the elegant Palace Barcelona Hotel and right down C/Bruc for your first real taste of Catalan Art Nouveau, with Gaudí’s Casa Calvet on C/Casp. Turn right onto C/Casp and walk three blocks west to the majestic Pg de Gràcia; then go right again three blocks to the impressive buildings known as the Mansana de la Discòrdia and the Perfume Museum . Sniff around Regia perfume shop before continuing north to marvel at Gaudí’s La Pedrera . Feeling peckish? Stop at Tragaluz on Ptge de la Concepció. The set menu is an enjoyable way to experience this glitterati hang-out.
Afternoon
After lunch, head north on Pg de Gràcia, turn right along Diagonal, taking in the fairy-tale Casa de les Punxes at No. 416. Walk along Diagonal, making a detour left at Pg Sant Joan to see Palau Macaya at No. 108. Then stroll along C/Mallorca to the Sagrada Família . Here you can take in the Nativity Façade and rest weary legs in the Plaça de Gaudí before climbing the bell towers for a breathtaking view of the city.
Design Shops
L’Appartement
A spacious, white-painted store packed with gorgeous furnishings and knick-knacks at reasonable prices: from quirky, cool lights and sculptures to bags, jewellery and t-shirts.
C/Enric Granados 44
Closed Sun, Mon
Regia
The biggest perfume shop in the city has over one thousand scents, including all the leading brands and other surprises. Also home to the Perfume Museum.
Pg de Gràcia 39
Muxart
Excellent and arty shoe shop for men, women and kids in a country famed for its leather.
C/Roselló 230
Biosca & Botey
Exceptionally elegant shop selling all kinds of lamps, from Art-Nouveau mushrooms to ultra-modern steel shades.
Rambla de Catalunya 125
DA
Pilma
Breathtaking designer shop selling quality modern furniture and interior accessories by big names, as well as cutting-edge creations by Catalan designers.
Av Diagonal 403
DBarcelona
An eclectic range of gadgets and gifts in a shop that doubles as an exhibition space for up-and-coming designers and more established artists.
Av Diagonal 367
Kowasa
A specialist photography bookshop with over 7,000 titles, including foreign magazines. The ambience is friendly and intimate and browsing is encouraged.
C/Mallorca 235
DA
Sadur
The owner designs and sells her own leather accessories: wallets, bags and a few gifts. Classy designs are well made and well priced.
C/Bruc 150
After-Dark Venues
La Fira
Decked out in vintage fairground memorabilia, this striking bar rates high on novelty factor. Order a cuba libre while swaying in a swing. Lively atmosphere, unique setting.
C/Provença 171
Closed Mon
Adm
Dry Martini
A classic and elegant venue where extraordinarily professional barmen are ready to prepare your favourite cocktail. Quiet jazz sounds play in the background.
C/Aribau 162
Velvet
Large, popular and populist disco bar with lavish decor, luxury fittings and music ranging from Elvis to Abba.
C/Balmes 161
Adm
Luz de Gas
A classic late-night watering hole, this half concert hall, half bar has live music nightly – from blues to jazz and soul.
C/Muntaner 246
DA
Ideal
Luxurious cocktail lounge opened by legendary barman José María Gotarda in the 1950s and now run by his son. More than 80 varieties of whisky.
C/Aribau 89
Closed Sun
City Hall
This popular club has two dance floors. Club nights cover a range of music styles, from electro pop to drum ’n’ bass.
Rambla de Catalunya 2-4
Dietrich Gay Teatro Café
A trendy gay club with a mixed door policy and a beautiful internal garden. It plays house and garage, and holds shows by singers, trapeze artists and acrobats.
Consell de Cent 255
Les Gens que j’Aime
The ideal place to have a drink while enjoying soft music, after walking around Paseo de Gràcia and Rambla Catalunya.
Valencia 286
Open 6pm–2:30am daily (3am weekends)
Cafés
Laie Llibreria Cafè
A cultural meeting place with a lively atmosphere, airy terrace and foreign newspapers. There’s an excellent set lunch and live jazz (on Thursdays).
C/Pau Claris 85
Closed Sun & Mon eve
Cafè del Centre
Said to be the oldest café in the Eixample, with dark wooden interiors that have not changed for a century. An unpretentious spot for a quiet coffee.
C/Girona 69
Closed after 9pm
Cacao Sampaka
An infinite array of chocolate, including innovative combinations such as chocolate with Parmesan cheese or olive oil.
C/Consell de Cent 292
Closed Sun, mornings in Aug
Mauri
One of the best pastry shops in town. Enjoy a hot drink with an elaborate dessert in Modernista surroundings.
Rambla Catalunya 102
Closed Sun eve
Bar París
Chaotic and lively, with a sunny terrace, Bar París attracts a student crowd. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, it’s ideal for clubbers not ready to go home.
C/Paris 187
Palace Barcelona
This elegant Modernista hotel formerly the Ritz, is the perfect place for breakfast in the conservatory or afternoon tea in the Grand Hall. It’s thoroughly luxurious, but pricey.
Gran Via de les Cortes Catalanes 668
DA
Bauma
A mixed crowd drifts in to read the paper or smoke a Havana cigar with a post-lunch carajillo (coffee and cognac).
C/Roger de Llúria 124
Closed Sat
DA
Mantequería Ravell
A deli-style shop offering incredible breakfasts, including eggs with foie gras, at a huge communal table. Wine and traditional hams and cheeses are also available.
C/Aragó 313
Closed Mon & Sat after 6pm, Tue & Wed after 9pm, Sun
Tragarrapid
A chic café below the Tragaluz restaurant. Up-market tapas and coffee served with style.
Ptge de la Concepció 5
Restaurants & Tapas Bars
Tragaluz
Popular with the fashionable crowd, this design-conscious, three-floored restaurant serves imaginative Mediterranean cuisine.
Ptge de la Concepció 5
93 487 01 96
La Semproniana
Set in an old printworks, this place serves food that’s a cross between Catalan and nouvelle cuisine – with a sense of playfulness. Try the black pudding lasagne.
C/Rosselló 148
93 453 18 20
Closed Sun
DA
Cinc Sentits
Indulge the five senses (cinc sentits in Catalan) at this stylish restaurant, where diners are wowed with modern interpretations of classic Catalan cuisine.
C/Aribau 53
93 323 94 90
Closed Mon eve, Sun
L’Olivé
An unassuming, family-style restaurant with excellent, well-priced regional cuisine. Reputedly the best place to eat that Catalan speciality, pig’s trotter. The broad bean salad with mint is recommended.
C/Balmes 47
93 452 19 90
Closed Sun eve
Noti
Apart from the superb French-Mediterranean cuisine and stylish decor, Noti also has an adjoining cocktail bar.
C/Roger de Lluria 35–37
93 342 66 73
Closed Sat lunch, Sun
DA
Casa Calvet
Splurge on Catalan food with a modern twist in these impressive Gaudí-designed dining rooms.
C/Casp 48
93 412 40 12
Closed Sun
DA
Moo
Run by the Roca brothers, Moo serves creative Catalan recipes prepared with the finest local ingredients.
C/Rosselló 265
93 445 40 00
DA
Inopia
Tucked away in a residential neighbourhood, Inopia serves traditional tapas.
C/Tamarit 104
93 424 52 31
Closed Tue–Fri lunch, Sun, Mon
DA
Cervecería Catalana
Just a few steps from Rambla de Catalunya, with some of the best tapas in town and a variety of beers.
C/Mallorca 236
93 216 03 68
DA
Paco Meralgo
This bright, modern tapas bar has a gourmet menu based on recipes from around the country.
C/Muntaner 171
93 430 90 27
NOTE
Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards. For tips on dining and standard opening hours see Eating & Drinking Tips